pianoguyy

no. just 1 variax. although, I have no idea if a variax can be used via a splitter.

yeah, what he said if you want to use amp distortion, then simply plug your guitar into your amp use the amp's fx loop the way it was intended - to go into your effects and back

First and foremost - it doesn't really matter if the light is on/off or off/on, as long as you know that light on means X and light off means Y. Am I wrong. Each click turns something on and something off. So it isn't really like an on-off button. It is a position lit and position unlit button. However, to answer the question - the light is based on the first effect in the chain. If you want the light to work in the opposite direction, swap block positions.

with all that being said.... That is not a problem with the L6. It will need to be fixed via your computer. *In the 'old days' we would hear noises like that when copying an audio cd. We learned to make an image of the disc, check it, and then burn the image. It was nice to burn a disc in 30 seconds, but those speeds didn't allow for corrections.

1. videos uploaded to another site (like youtube) and then linked back here have no limit. 2. videos don't need to be 4K for something like this. You could easily get 2 minutes of video if you adjust your settings. 3. we don't need video for audio demonstrations. high quality audio files would easily land under 4mb. no, it makes perfect sense. there's no reason for L6 to be hosting people's files. In fact, if you think that is lame... there's also a combined total file size limit. It might not be a problem for one time posters, but what happens if have been contributing for 10 years. it is still being sold in 2021, so I assume people are using it. *it was still being made prior to the Plandemic allowing governments to force everyone out of work. I can't speak as to if they plan on continuing to make it once the people wise up and rise up. This isn't the Helix forum. Screw them.

Who are you kidding. This place is full of haters. Self hate, usually, which displays itself as brand hate. But there are brand haters as well.

1. Pod Go forum dataway ==> 2. Yes, higher gain stages result in higher fuzz/hiss/hum type noises. Assuming it isn't normal noise that we all hear, could this be a ground loop or shielding issue?

To expand on this a little - Basically, if you can't play your pre-recorded audio (MP3, CD, Vinyl, etc) through it, don't use it with a modeler. Of course, some audio systems aren't all that neutral either. A pair of 'earbuds' or a set of computer speakers, they usually add 'bass reflex'. While they are designed for your pre-recorded music, they add flavor that you don't want with a modeler. The ultimate goal is to be able to hear what you designed, and do so in a manner that allows everyone else to hear the same thing. Meaning - if you gave me your patch, it would sound the same when I play it on my rig. If you recorded direct from your modeler, the playback tone would be exactly the same. If you played live (running direct to PA), the crowd would hear exactly the same sound as you hear out of your personal monitor Don't get me wrong, it is your unit, your tone, your career/hobby. Do what you want. I mean, it is music, there are no rules. Even if there were rules, it wouldn't be rock and roll if we didn't break them. But, in general, the goal is to be the 'same'. Same when I am in my bedroom. Same when in the garage for rehearsal. Same when I am in the studio. Same when on a beer room dance floor. Same in a 5,000 seat hall. Same in a 50,000 seat arena. And most importantly, same when I am out of town without my gear and someone says to me "hey, my guitarist broke their hand, can you sit in tonight". >> A quick download of my patches and I am ready to go.

Is that really what you want your first post to be? Reviving a year old thread to insult someone. Unlike the spoken word, there is a 'delete' option on your internet comment, feel free.

I have seen it done with the HD500 I don't remember how (because I have no use for it), but it happened.

but there are tricks for some effects. For example: If all you want is a volume change - assign the EXP pedal to the amp's volume knob instead of taking up a block with a volume pedal.

8 total assigned anyway you'd like but only 8 and that assumes you don't run out of DSP first

Truth be told, if you want to get excited and you want to buy new stuff... You need to dump the Marshall cab and forget about buying a pedal sized power amp to run it. Focus on buying some sort flat system - personal/mini PA system. Studio monitors. FRFR. etc It is the entire point of modeling. As example, the Pod provides the Marshall cab tone. You need something that allows you to hear that Marshall cab tone as it was intended to be heard. If you have a Marshall cab, everything you put into it is going to sound like it is coming out of a Marshall cab. So, if the Pod is putting a Marshall cab tone into a Marshall cab, it is going to sound like garbage. Tone on top of tone. If you put no model into a Marshall cab, it will sound like a Marshall cab. If you put Fender model into a Marshall cab, it will sound like garbage. See where I am going with this. You need a nice clear system that allows you to get out of it what you put into it. And I always say get 2 for stereo.

No, not that kind of power. A power amp. Such as a Marshall head, such as the Marshall JCM800 2203X 100-watt Tube Head. I plug my modeler straight into the PA system (or recording console, when in the studio). Others plug into the FX loop of their amp. Some plug into the front side. There is no one way to do it. We were all new once.

Did you read the owner's manual(s)?

What does the year have anything to do with it. If you need a pack, buy the pack.

I would take it a step further and say ----- adjust ALL settings to see what works for you.

in this instance, you would want to put it before the Pod. *between the guitar and Pod. See, your Pod is receiving a different signal, therefore it will react differently. What you want to do is put it before the Pod so that it receives the same signal and will reacts the same. *They sell signal boosters made for this reason. Some can be plugged directly into the guitar before the cord. Some have predetermined settings, other allow some customization.

well, yeah, i guess since we know what it is not, we need to figure out what it is. lol *but are we sure the bean is the same as the 500 by not having a battery?

Have you read any of the numerous Big Sur related topics that came before yours?

I've found the 'warbles' to be true of every device that isn't a dedicated pitch shifter. But, I will point out - Based on your wording - 'harmonizer'. If you are using the smart harmony, a guitar that is not in tune - truly spot on tuning - will go bonkers. An A432, as example, won't be recognized as either A or Ab, so it won't know what note to harmonize it to. The warbles happen less with the octave and glide effect. As to why it only started recently - what changed on your end? A new guitar. A new pickup. Changing the volume knob from 7 to 8. Are you using it on a new patch, where maybe it is last instead of first. Any number of variables can change how it reacts.

You didn't understand what to do because I didn't say what to do yet. I was simply stating that there is a way - just not an easy way.

I only have the add-ons because I bought used units with them. Otherwise, I wouldn't have them. I didn't need them. Not really sure that I even use them - but I have them. However, to answer the questions No. The add-ons are amps only. No fx. Try both. Do what works. There is no right or wrong. You have 512 available slots. Experimentation is permitted. Everything boils down to - what sound you want and how to get it. Think about it - distorting an eq'd tone is different than eq-ing a distorted tone. It is different to echo a distorted tone than it is to distort an echoed tone. Neither is right neither is wrong. It all comes down to what you want.

PianoGuyY's Guide to Volume Leveling it is not simple. It is quite tedious. But it works. And, the best part about it is - you only recently purchased your product. Which means you, if interested, can take advantage of it from the beginning and not have to redo 5 years worth of patches.

I can't speak for the Bean. But I did ask this same question about the 500. No battery in the 500. However, I will at least point out, you are absolutely correct in your way of thinking. In many devices, when settings don't save, it is because the internal battery has died. Newer devices, however, are using a different kind of memory storage which doesn't need batteries.