pianoguyy

I am guessing this depends on what you mean by 'overdriving'. If you mean redlining your meter, that's one thing. If you mean the signal sounds staticy or mildly distorted, that's another.

First and foremost, it is not a wah or volume pedal. It is an expression pedal. There is a difference. A huge difference. Unfortunately, because of the language barrier, and the fact that this is a used instrument - this may get frustrating. Did you reset the device? Reinstall firmware? Did you calibrate the pedal? If the factory patches are there, find one with a wah to see if you can make it work. Even without a working patch, when you step on it, does the pedal change from exp 1 to exp 2? And that is just the beginning.

the best thing to do would be to plug in and use the device while you are the only person plugged in. one device draining the juice from the wall instead of 4 plus sound and lights

there's also this - movement Even though my first thought was power - it is possible that being on an unstable surface being shaken caused "loose" knobs to vibrate.

1. that would, IMO, be a band decision. Not a you decision. If the band is ampless, and you insist on using an amp - you're out. Guitar players are a dime a dozen, we'll replace you quite easily. In fact, it would be so easy to replace you, that it would become hard. Not because you are special, but because we would need to decide which of the 100 'perfect' applicants to replace you with. THAT is the hard part. Not lack of choices, but too many choices. 2. an amp is not going to give you the variety you get from a modeler. so, if you can get away with "one sound", then it makes no difference what you use. Now, you see, that was the answer to the question. But as to the solution to the problem that caused the question - This has been discussed/debated ad nauseam. (not always be professionals or even "professionals") And, while it is true that every system and venue is different and you will never truly sound the same going from one to the other - it simply isn't true. A 'flat' system (such as a PA or FRFR) is a flat system. You can't get any flatter than flat. You are either flat or you are not. So, then, the question is - what is different between your headphones (IEM is nothing more than a fancy word for really expensive headphones) at home and your headphones at the office. Because something somewhere is changing something. Could it be a phase issue. - fix via eq Could it be a hearing issue - fixed by standing somewhere else Could it be a person issue - amazing how a sound man loses his ability to mix sounds when you take the same wire that would be plugged into a mic in front of an amp and you plug it into a box that simulates a mic in front of an amp. I mean, who ever would have thought that the mic could Jedi Mind Trick someone like that. Could it be a space issue, where it sounds different because you aren't in the same small room with sound bouncing off the walls and floors - probably not, if you are using headphones. I say NO. You don't need to switch to a physical amp if you are getting good tone out of your device. But, assuming you've done everything right on your end, you do need to slap some sense into the sound men. There is no reason why they shouldn't be able to mix you. And considering the bad sounds (from physical amps) that they can mix into good sounding amps, there is simply no excuse why they can't fix it on their end.

this was the first thing that popped into my head. the big question is - does it work now that you are back home?

Sometimes I wonder if the term feedback means the same thing to some people as it does the rest of the world.

Or, you could borrow someone's computer to do it. Public Libraries even have public computers to make sure middle class white suburban kids can use Facebook without their parents' prying eyes - MY tax dollars at work. 262 is the last update. I don't mean latest, I mean last. So, you will only need to borrow it once. *I can see them giving one more update before they officially kill it off. But it wouldn't be any major changes. But, yes, if you are within the return Windows, big box companies will be happy to take your return. The credit card you used will even force them to do so if they object. Local Joe Mom and Pop neighborhood corner shops would first offer to let you use their pc.

The installation instructions are laid out fairly well. Follow the instructions as written. But, beyond that, - I can't stress enough - make sure you aren't using USB 3, and don't use a USB hub.

Call Apple and complain. Join the numerous class action lawsuits. LOL - of course, if they can't keep their "ecosystem" locked down, they become "open source" - which would make them Android or Windows.

First, I will say to you the same thing I have said to numerous people - Buying this device with no intentions of using the amp modeling is like buying a Ferrari for the purpose of driving from the garage to the end of the driveway to pick up your mail. No, the knobs don't work that way.

Most issues with Apple are a result of Apple. This is why Apple gets sued. In fairness, I understand what Apple is trying to do, and it is a very good "on paper" - BUT IT DOESN'T WORK.

24 years and 42 posts - thanks for contributions

1. don't use USB 3 2. don't use a USB hub tell us what happens *this assumes you know about the recent issues with Apple products?

maybe I am misunderstanding something here.... why does the MV change in a DAW?

1. Get a case that allows jacks to be plugged in, or at least ported, where you need. 2. They sell cords and adapters that allow a right angle. 3. tape is the musician's friend*. buy it by the case. 4. go wireless live *most musicians will never know the feel of having gear taped to their body. i suggest shaving first.

We've all been there. Some more than others, because some of us built a rig (to perfection) and then used the rig for 2 decades, letting all of the newest changes pass them by. While others buy every new unit that comes out - most of them aren't on the HD forum section anymore because they have gone on the the "latest and greatest". ----- yeah, we have people who had the 500 and then bought the 500X because "it has an X in its name, it's the most fantastic thing ever". (and then those same people bought the Firehawk) So, anyhow, here is the one thing that I wish someone said to me when I was new - Make your selections as if all of this virtual stuff was physical stuff. Meaning; particularly at the beginning, if you never used a "tron up" - there is no reason to use one now. If you have never used a Fender Bluesman amp, there is no reason to use one now. Every piece of virtual gear in this box represents a real world piece of physical gear. If you treat the digital settings the same as you would the physical settings, you will be far less overwhelmed. You used a 1964 Marshall, use the 1964 Marshall. You turned the drive to 4, turn the drive to 4. You liked your drive before the wah, put your drive before the wah. Yes, you have a world of possibilities in this box. But... Christopher Columbus wasn't a farmer that said - let's set off to sea on a 3 month journey. Start simple, so that you can learn the device. THEN try all the weird lollipop lollipop.

but to (repeat) answer the question - if, as example, you use 'auto', it gets determined by the first fx block this could cause some major changes in tone if, as example, after you designed a patch, you decided to add a block. Such as I often do - which is, when sitting around playing different songs at home, I add a pitch shift so that I can play along with a certain song that is in a different tuning. Or I plan to use a patch as a template for another patch and add an EQ - even without activating or adjusting the settings, my tone changes. and to repeat my statement - Since 1983, I knew nothing of all this impedance stuff. Why should I be making changes now.

I am old (both school and age). When I started playing, we didn't know all this crap. No one wrote about all this crap. All we knew was - 1. Don't play bass through guitar gear. 2. Don't plug powered signals (like amps) into anything other than speakers. So, my approach here is - globally set it to 3.5m Twist the knobs until your patch sounds good. I knew nothing of it for 30+ years, why should it bother me now. One setting, make it work. This plays into my all-around* approach: I create all my patches with 1 guitar, the same guitar. Because I know that each guitar sounds differently, which is why we use different guitars. One patch sounds different when using different guitars, so when you want a little boost you play a hot guitar when you want a little twang you use a single coil. *this applies to general patches. if something specific is being created, then I will specifically create something. Of course, there are other people who want to sound the same all the time. So they create one patch and then save multiple versions based on - sometimes I play a Strat and sometimes I play with active pickups and sometimes I use an amp and sometimes I run direct. That way, no matter what the situation is, they sound the same.

no

USB port, not the same as power wire. Damage, not the same as disconnect. If I am on stage, my USB isn't plugged in. But, something might happen to yank my power cord out. - such as a drunk tripping over his own feet. Using the tree will prevent it from being pulled out - the "pull" stops where the tree begins, leaving the part between the tree and the unit (the plugged in part) untouched. This is possible at home with kids and animals running around - and the previously mentioned drunk. But it is less likely to happen if you have a "home setup" where this stuff is not normally in the pathway of the photo ops and tax deductions.

Yes, you can play bass through your unit. I don't have a 300, so I can't help you with specifics. But I can say - I am old (school and age). So, I grew up playing bass through bass gear and guitar through guitar gear, because damage would occur if you did otherwise. So, one of the first questions I had when I bought the unit and joined the forums was if I could play bass (piano, etc) through the unit. You're good. Plug in. Rock on. Figuring out good tone is part of the journey, and one each must make on their own. But at least you now know won't damage your gear.

part of the issue with "realism" (in addition to it being annoying) is the fact that most people don't know what 'real' is. Meaning - when was the last time you turned a 1965 100-watt Marshall 4x12 up to 10, in your bedroom while sitting 3 feet away with your ear at speaker level. Yet, with modeling tech, this is essentially what you are doing.

it's that little piece of plastic jutting out from the unit near the power jack the OM should have a diagram I would suggest not using it unless you have animals or kids running around your bedroom.

I have spoken on this many times: There are a lot of guys out there, who are excellent videographers or fantastic bloggers. They make great videos. They run fancy websites. Lots of content with loads of data. But, musically, when it comes down the content they deliver... well, they are really good videographers.