HonestOpinion

The current version of the Mix400 says the max width is 22" and the Helix is 22.05" so I can see where that would be a tight fit. The Helix is 5 100ths of an inch wider than the current spec on the On-Stage.You might be able to notch the screw in the knob where it meets the brace with a dremel and get the extra 5 100ths you need. A shame the tolerance is that close.

Did you get the On-Stage or the Quik-Lok model? The Quik-Lok model is about an inch too narrow.

As long as you are pushing down hard enough it should be swapping. You may want to double check the volume and wah block and make sure they are assigned to EXP 1 and EXP 2. Also, keep in mind that in the 2.0 firmware if you switch to wah and do not return to the volume block before you switch to another snapshot the expression pedal switch loses context and does not function properly.

I wonder if the auto-calibration needs some tweaking in the next firmware version?

The "Super Serial x2" is a great template (found in the Templates set list) for getting the max DSP the Helix has to offer in a single signal chain. You do have to learn to balance your blocks across the two routes (four paths).

I can understand the way Paolo feels about the fuzzes as they are so extreme on the Helix that I have not employed one since I initially tried and found them to be unusable. Could be that they just need the right impedance, EQ, and settings, pilot error, but I just found them to be wretched. I have never been a huge fan of fuzz to begin with although some players (Jack White leaps to mind in recent years) have managed to get a decent sound with them and a cheap one at that, he uses the Big Muff. Doesn't hurt that he has major studios and maybe a good producer or two to help him out with processing. I have to admit I have not tried the Wringer Fuzz yet. I will have to revisit the fuzzes, I generally prefer a Tube Screamer type overdrive with a good amp sound though.

Assuming you are not barefoot when you are pushing the footswitch this should not be happening. I would try re-flashing the firmware and doing the global reset again. If that does not help you may want to contact L6 support.

Excellent! I am curious, where did you place the fuzz in the signal chain and if you had it in the first position what did you have the impedance set to? Also, did you do anything special with the EQ or low/high cuts? This sounds more rounded and smooth than the fuzz tones I have been getting.

Nothing but Zeppelin fans here as far as I can tell. I think people were just having a little fun, no disrespect intended. You are right if a bit harsh, it is difficult to find music of this caliber, in this or any other era although there are some gems out there if you look hard enough. Zeppelin were absolute pioneers and one of my favorite bands. Page was a brilliant and innovative player and I would still love to see a preset for "Fool In The Rain" if anyone either gins one up or finds one.

It's all good, you shed some additional light on that parameter.

It seems like at some point it might be worthwhile for the Line6 developers to refine the hierarchy in their code for which parameters get changed first in a snapshot switch to minimize perceptible dropouts, volume changes, or other latency 'artifacts'. There might even be a way to have a kind of 'smoothing' algorithm, sort of like a cross-fade, assuming they have not done this already and that people would not then complain that the change was not fast enough.

A good detail to keep in mind silverhead and that is the crux of the bisucuit. If you take a look at my post above you will see that I specified you need to set the "Snapshots Edit" parameter to "Recall" if you want the bypass state to be the same as it was when you last clicked it in your snapshot. That was the feature I was trying to point out to get ricsteruk 'halfway' to what he was trying to accomplish. Your point being that the opposite is true if you set this parameter to "Discard" any changes made to a snapshot (without a save) will be discarded when you switch away and then return to that snapshot.

Good idea! There is a limited implementation that does part of what you are trying to achieve but does not allow the bypass state you select on the fly to be reflected in every other snapshot. If you set the "Snapshot Edits" parameter under Global Settings/Preferences to "Recall", when you change snapshots and come back to the snapshot you changed the bypass state for a block in, it will be the same. So, for example, if you have a snapshot that was saved with a distortion effect block on and you bypass that block, change snapshots and then return to that snapshot, it will still have the distortion block bypassed. If you change presets and come back to that preset and snapshot, it will have the distortion block back on as it was when you first saved it.

The great thing about the Helix interface is that even if you do push to long instead of short push and twist, the screen that pops up allows you to assign the "Controller" parameter to "Snapshots" anyway. Nice design guys!

Here is a post from elsewhere on the site with someone else attempting to do this. It looks like setting up the harmonies as either different snapshots or even different presets and foot-switching between them might be the easiest way to go. http://line6.com/support/topic/11487-how-2-approximate-hotel-california-harmony-with-ur-jtvhd500/?p=78596

This is true in "Pedal" mode but Snapshots essentially give you this ability, each snapshot can have the same FX on or off and with a different set of parameters effectively assigning the same FX to multiple footswitches. One snapshot for instance can have your distortion with the Drive dimed and the tone cut back, hit a different footswitch and another snapshot can have the same distortion effect with the Drive cut back and the volume and tone cranked.

Changing browsers to Chrome or Firefox may help but one possible solution may to be to disable/enable the hardware acceleration in any of these browsers. Here is how to do it in IE 11 To disable hardware acceleration, follow these steps: Click Start, and then click Internet Explorer. Click the Tools icon in the upper-right corner, and then click Internet Options. Click the Advanced tab, and then under Accelerated graphics, select the Use software rendering instead of GPU rendering check box.

If you are trying to update the firmware to the latest version (2.01) you do not want the 2.0 file. You do want to scroll down a file as the first one on the Downloads page is currently the "Flash Memory" not the "Helix" app, but you still want the 2.01 version of the "Helix" app, not 2.0. You want the "Helix" app file that says "Helix Editor v2.01 Release Notes" on the right. The reason you saw a bunch of machine code the first time that you downloaded may be that you downloaded the firmware flash file ("Flash Memory") instead of the "Helix" app. You always want to download the Helix app and let it install the Updater, Editor, and driver files. Then use the Updater to download and install the latest matching firmware file. Only download the firmware file ("Flash Memory") manually if you are having problems with web connectivity while updating and require the file locally. You always want to download the version of the "Helix" app that corresponds to the firmware version you are updating to. Upgrading for example to the 2.01 firmware with the "Helix" 2.0 version of the software is a recipe for problems.

LOL, what an amazingly great flick that was!

You may have done this already but these are the first things I would try.These instructions assume you have backed up your presets and IRs as some of the global reset options will delete presets and IRs. Good luck with this. If you have an alternate computer to the one that has been failing, skip step #2 and try the following procedure there. If you are using the computer the update failed on first use the Line6 uninstaller and uninstall all Line6 software. Make sure you have the minimum amount of stuff running on your PC. No apps, firewall and anti-virus software can be problematic. Download the latest version of the "Helix" app (2.01) run it and let it install the latest software. Without your USB port plugged in try booting your Helix first with the FS 9&10 combination, if that doesn't work I would proceed to the "Safe Boot" mode FS 6&12 and see if you can get a normal screen. If not, you may want to try various other reset combinations on the following page: http://helixhelp.com/pmwiki.php?n=Main.ResetOptions. If at any point you can get the Helix to boot normally, proceed to the firmware update. Even if you do not get a normal "Home" screen, after your reset attempts you may want to periodically check to see if the Updater can communicate with the Helix. Again, make sure you have the minimum amount of stuff running on your PC. No apps, firewall and anti-virus software can be problematic. Plug into a USB port preferably not a hub and preferably on the back of the PC if you are using one. However, some people have had a hub work better for them, if necessary, give that a try as well. If at any point you can get the Updater talking to the Helix run the Updater and update to the latest firmware version. Make sure to do the global FS 9&10 reset after the firmware upgrade. If you still can't get things working I would try the previous steps but roll back to an early version of the firmware first before attempting the latest upgrade. Remember, when encountering firmware upgrade problems you should always uninstall the software and make sure you reinstall the version of the "Helix" application that matches the version of the firmware you are trying to roll back to (or the latest version of the "Helix" app if you are upgrading to the current version). Good luck and have patience, most people have had success "unbricking" their own Helix by trying enough combinations of computer hardware, "Helix" app reinstalls (match it to the firmware!), and global reset options.

The capacitance sensitive footswitches are not designed to change channels on an amp or to change presets with a touch. They are for navigating the interface by for instance changing the home screen focus to the block that a footswitch is assigned to, or for bringing up a footswitch assignment screen. You need to press and click the footswitch for it to change the channel on your amp and you will have to have assigned the proper command to the footswitch in advance for that to work. You can get a "new preset by first pressing the "Preset" knob and then using the joystick to navigate to any of the new presets in the users lists, e.g. "User 1", "User 2", etc..

Here's a "couple", my official guess is it's one of these ;) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_bands_from_Canada https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Canadian_musicians

An interesting theory but I find it highly unlikely that the native cabs each consist of a multitude of IRs. I agree with zooey's theory about "dimensions being modeled separately". I think it is much more probable that they have simply coded the cabs so some of the parameters can be changed. I don't think they would opt to use precious memory by eating up a huge amount of space for each native cab by making certain cab parameter changes require a different cab model. I would not presume to know how they optimized their cabs to use less DSP as well as potentially less memory but there are a couple of things that I suppose are possibilities. One is finding the equivalent of compression alogrithms or other tricks that take advantage of native Helix code and hardware and allow their cabs to be optimized and more efficient while using less DSP. Line6 has the advantage of only needing to code a cab specifically for the Helix, they don't have to worry about structures that would allow it to run on a wider range of hardware or software. Secondly, I suppose they could also save memory by having a cab essentially have hooks to redundant cab code/structures both within a single cab and common to multiple cabs such that those structures are stored once in memory but multiple cabs can access them.

You have probably already have done this but try making extreme EQ changes on the amp model itself to see if you are getting the results you expect from the amp's EQ and make sure there is not a problem with split/merge routing or parameter settings on blocks either upstream or downstream from the amp. And of course, make sure the EQ block you are testing is set to "On" ;)

I would not be surprised to see a fix in the next firmware release.