-
Posts
5,003 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
73
Everything posted by HonestOpinion
-
HX stomp channel switching, avoid LED change by FS touch?
HonestOpinion replied to offrhodes's topic in Helix
I'm probably missing something but this seems to be working as intended. Touching a footswitch was never designed to "audibly change the amps". What behavior do you think touching the capacitance sensitive switch should have? Can you describe the behavior you would like to see. Is the focus not changing to the block you think it should? Not quite understanding what the issue is here? As codamedia indicated, typically on the Helix(don't have an HX stomp), the behavior you seem to be describing is used to bring focus to the block assigned to the footswitch. It is also used to toggle the LED status(on or off) such that for an example of two blocks assigned to the same switch("Multi"), if you want the LED to come on when you turn a distortion block on and simultaneously bypass the compressor, it lights up. Or the reverse if you prefer, the light comes on when you turn the compressor on and the distortion off. -
Strange that it changed without you having upgraded anything. Have you tried uninstalling and reinstalling HX Edit rather than the driver separately? Also what version of the editor/firmware are you on? Maybe its time to use this as an opportunity to upgrade to 2.92. The only other thing I can think of is that it was saying HX Stomp before and you just did not notice it.
-
You can import from HX Edit and highlight multiple IRs in your file system. If you prefer you can drag and drop them from your file system into consecutive slot(s) starting with the IR slot you select(hover over) in HX Edit's 'Impulses' tab.
-
Does it still do this if you increase the Headroom parameter to max?
-
What firmware version are you on? Might be unrelated but worth looking at the topic below if you haven't already and in particular Camelot_One's fix if it applies to you.
-
Interesting, so you have two different versions of the Ernie Ball VP. The 250k version and the 50k. Curious if it would behave differently if both versions had the same rating. Wouldn't hurt to test with another expression pedal against the two you have to see if the same behavior is exhibited. Have you tried swapping the expression pedal cables out with others or even with each other? Does it make any difference if you plug the cables in after power up versus before? Have you checked the setting for the global setting's 'EXP Pedals' --> 'EXP 1/2 Polarity'? Are both pedals set the same way? Does it make any difference what you have the global settings 'EXP Pedals' -->'EXP 1/2 Pedal Position' set to? Just trying to get an idea if any settings impact this behavior. Doesn't seem like this issue is having a major impact but I would open a ticket with Line6 if you can't get this resolved.
-
I have the Headrush FRFR-108 and it works great at low volume and IMHO is an excellent choice for home use although it can go to the stage if needed. One of many excellent options available for modeling. Inexpensive, light, compact, and sounds great.
-
Scroll down the page just a bit, the protector is in the first third of the page. The labels are down near the bottom. https://glenndelaune.com/helix-patches.htm
-
Thanks for the heads up on MIDI Guitar 2. That is a very cool product. Not sure I want to shell out the $100 for the non-trial version of it yet but I may. That is some appealing tech.
-
I love the flexibility of the PC+ and the control and close integration with the Helix. When I want to run in FRFR mode I can do that for a dead-on emulation of another amp and cab. Btw, I mention amp and cab in the same breath as many combo amp models just don't sound very true to the original unless you get the cab emulation right. When I just want an easy guitar amp tone requiring minimal preset tweaking and to quote the old cliche that amp in the room feel and sound, that is there as well. If I want to switch to acoustic I have the advantage of a full range coax speaker(in essence an FRFR) that can render a great acoustic tone. If you want to mic your cab the coax speaker means a single mic has a better chance of capturing a good mix Just a very flexible solution, especially once you get your Helix presets set to really take advantage of the PC+. It gives me the ability to quickly and easily switch back and forth between an FRFR and a traditional guitar cab approach. An embarrassment of riches. Sort of the best of both worlds. I am sure we will see more of these hybrid FRFR/guitar-amp solutions in the future but right now I think the PC+ is the best(only?) one out there. At least when it comes to built-in integration with the Helix. As you say you can offload some DSP to the cab. Particularly useful as amsdenj pointed out for something like the HX Stomp with fewer blocks and DSP to spare than the LT or Helix Floor. Late to the party responding to you but the PC+ uses a coax speaker with a high range driver mounted directly over the traditional guitar speaker which can be disabled depending on the PC+ setting you select. When the driver is engaged, you have an FRFR. With it off, you have a traditional cab with the added capability of modeling different traditional guitar speakers if you choose to engage it. I like having the options.
-
Btw, just a heads up. I downloaded Midi Guitar 2 on both my Windows laptop and iPhone. I don't have a camera kit adapter for my iPhone but as you say I could not find anywhere to set the MIDI channel MG2 listens on the iOS version. However the Windows version of MG2 has a tab called "Interface" that allows you to select the Helix(connected over USB) and then set the MIDI channel you prefer. Assuming this is the MIDI channel MG2 is listening on you could then set the channel to for example "2" and then go to your Helix and set your global preferences 'MIDI/Tempo' --> 'MIDI Base Channel' = "1". You could then send the MIDI messages to change the MG2 presets from the Helix Command Center on channel "2". Any random Variax MIDI messages you don't want would be sent on the Helix base channel you set(in this example "1") which is not being listened to by MG2. This assumes three things though. You don't mind switching to the Windows version of MG2(or probably Mac if you prefer) instead of using an iPad for MG2. The "Interface" section of MG2 is referring to the MIDI channel it is listening on(I believe it is). That the Variax only sends MIDI messages out on the "MIDI Base Channel" the Helix is set to and not "Omni". That's probably a safe bet but I haven't tested it. Sorry, that is as far as I got testing this.
-
So many on target and accurate comments here already. I have used an FRFR for years now for the primary reason, as has already been mentioned, that I want to hear on stage what my audience is hearing. With that said I also need to hear a tone on stage that inspires me to play as well as providing an excellent tone to the FOH. I also prefer an FRFR's ability to more faithfully reflect the amp/cab model I have selected. However, that has involved quite a learning curve centered mostly around dialing the EQ and high/low cuts in properly. Also proper mic selection and its attendant parameters and countless other tips and techniques that help with preset design. I'm delighted with what I can get out of the Helix to an FRFR but it was definitely a journey getting here. Conversely the extremely limited frequency range and the particular frequency response of a traditional guitar amp and the inherent interaction between guitar, effects, and and amp obviates the need for much of the gyrations required for FRFR. Plugging my Helix into a guitar amp or my PowerCab+ usually gets a good tone so much more quickly than dialing in my FRFR. I can get just as good a tone eventually with the FRFR, it just usually requires more effort. I confess that even after all these years spent with modeling I do not quite understand why an IR or cab model does not take care of more of the tonal heavy lifting when using an FRFR. I can't help but think there are still some gains that need to be made in modeling technology which will get us closer to a plug 'n play situation when using an IR or cab model out to FRFR. I definitely would not be above using something like an enhanced IR for dummies that instantly rendered a guitar amp-like tone through my FRFR.
-
Yep, I like your two proposed solutions best. Another way to approach it now, at least on a PC although maybe there is an equivalent app on iOS might be to "pre-filter", block or remap selected MIDI messages. I think MIDI-OX might be able to do this as well as something like the app below. https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/p/midi-relink/9nst6mf1lznv?activetab=pivot:overviewtab
-
Another less than ideal solution you probably already considered. Connect to your iPad via audio instead of USB. Midi Guitar 2 only requires an audio connection not a MIDI connection. It then converts the audio in from your guitar into MIDI messages. If you only connected to your iPad or a PC via audio then the Helix should not be passing MIDI messages. If the MIDI never makes it into the iPad then there should be no issue with erroneous preset changes caused by the Variax. Of course you lose the ability to change presets in MG2 using Helix MIDI. https://www.speechrecsolutions.com/assets/iPad_and_microphones.pdf
-
My dog is just laying out with his muzzle on the front porch watching the squirrels go by on this one too. Definitely not an overriding concern and not sure how many development cycles I would want to see diverted to this. Still going to be using my ears primarily to make presets. I am even less diligent than you about leveling presets and have rarely used a DAW, or mixer meter as an assist. I did use a decibel meter for a bit but that was a short-lived and less than rigorous discipline for me. As has been commented on many times between the Fletcher Munson Curve and the fact that different tones can be perceived as different volumes, particularly related to how much energy they have in the mid-high end, you really have to use your ears for the final product but I still like that visual assist. You make an interesting point regarding the D/A conversion and placement. I wouldn't mind some more official details on how the meters work although phil_m has provided some along the way. Having a meter as you allude to that could be activated within the signal chain right after a specific block could be useful and some folks have requested it. Don't know if we will ever see that. Even if it is only at the end of the signal chain though it can still be a handy additional visual cue for measuring the cumulative level when you are adjusting blocks or comparing one preset's level to another. My point is that it having no options to for example display persistently or at least for the duration of an edit, and instead only showing up when the output block has the focus, makes its use extremely limited IMHO. Having an amorphous mono-color bar without markings isn't ideal either.
-
Good question, same thing occurred to me. They manage to model some fairly complex circuits, tones, and effects making complicated and convoluted changes. Maybe impedance changes and the way devices respond to it can be modeled as well.
-
Kind of the point. Limited usefulness as I have no intention of constantly highlighting my output block just to see the meters. When it comes to meters or visual feedback in general some people find it redundant, others find it helpful. If we're going to have them let's make 'em as user friendly as possible.
-
Btw, although the output meters could use some other tweaks as well, my primary request would be to have them displaying on the screen at all times, at least while a preset is being edited. Having to jump over to the Output block every time to see the meters while editing makes no sense to me. They should be up constantly during an edit so you can level up each block you are working on. I know you can do that by bypassing the block and listening for the difference but the metering would provide a nice sanity check.
-
Variax Tone/Volume knob Helix issues Attn chuskey
HonestOpinion replied to brue58ski's topic in Helix
Ran some more experiments. The first thing I have to note is that the Helix is still acting strangely when presets are imported or copied. Could of course be some other issue but restarting today with the presets I imported from you seemed to restore the Variax volume and tone levels being reflected properly in HX Edit. I also copied your presets to create a couple of additional test cases and I could see them rebuild on restart. I think Line6 may still be having some issues with how copied or imported presets are being handled and until that is remedied I remain convinced that a best practice is to restart the Helix whenever presets have been copied or imported. What a giant hassle! I did see the issue you described. To get the tone settings to work properly required clicking on them a second time(unlocked). This was not the case with the two presets I created to test volume changes. Here's where it gets weird though. If I switch to one of my own test presets and then back to one of your tone tests, they work on the first click. Something definitely very strange going on here. Oh, and now it just got weirder still. All of a sudden it is working consistently and perfectly when I click between your test presets as well as my own. Almost as if everything started working almost properly after the Helix and Variax had been on for a while. But no, now the volume knob on the Variax has no effect whatsoever even on a Don't Force and Unlocked setting. I am finding this very difficult to test as the results I am getting are wildly inconsistent. I think you may have discovered some buggy behavior although until I get a new battery and get up to the latest Variax firmware I will not be sure. I think I will suspend further testing until then to prevent muddying the waters. Btw, sheer speculation but the "Don't Force" setting on a preset behavior could be that rather than the volume or tone jumping to the setting on the Variax it stays at the settings from the prior preset until you manually change it on the Variax. I could see that being a legitimate approach to the Don't Force setting even if some users find it less than ideal. Should probably be an option. -
This comparison video below from Line 6's Paul Hindmarsh may help you make your decision. Essentially it breaks down to whether or not you want the scribble strips versus onscreen block labels, headphone level knob, and which of these devices' back panel inputs and outputs has the options you need or are likely to need/want in the future. The Helix Floor and the LT are identical in most other respects. So to recap, some items to consider for the Helix: the two additional expression pedal inputs, the additional send/return loops, the mic input(super helpful for recording as others pointed out), the headphone level control and scribble strips, On the LT side of the equation, primarily price.
-
Below are some specific instructions for how to set up a tuner loopback command. I tried this on my Helix and it works but I got wonky inconsistent results. Sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. Sometimes the tap footswitch would behave like a momentary switch and I would have to keep it depressed to keep the tuner on. Maybe this would work differently on the HX Stomp. Ultimately I'm not sure if this method will work for you but it was an interesting experiment. I would be curious to see how it behaves on your HX Stomp. Please let me know if you try it. IMPORTANT: Set 'Global Settings' --> 'MIDI/Tempo' --> 'MIDI Thru' = "Off" This prevents runaway infinite loop MIDI funkiness when you are looping MIDI back into the Helix or HX Stomp Set up a MIDI cable from your HX Stomp MIDI output and loop it back to your MIDI input Now go to the Command Center (where you set up your MIDI commands) and set up the following values in the parameters for the Tap footswitch. Command = "CC Toggle", MIDI Ch = "Base", CC# = 68, Dim Value = 0, Lit Value = 127 Tap footswitch should now require a single click for tuner(ah, but does it work?).
-
I have always used my electric guitars through the 'Guitar In' input. My acoustic guitars, which like yours have active pickups, go through my 'Aux In' input. As you have read one of the Return inputs may be preferable depending on the guitar and pickups. Try them both and see which works better for your guitar. I usually use separate presets when I go acoustic but you can design them with a separate path for both your electric and acoustic guitars if you prefer. As far as the signal chain is concerned no great trickery is required but it did take me some time to design an acoustic preset I really liked. I have had some small success experimenting with various attempts to use for example the 'Studio Tube Pre' or even amp blocks as well as acoustic IRs but find that just running direct to FOH with some EQ, reverb, delay, compression, chorus and/or whatever other effects you want is all you really need for the acoustic guitar. Btw, I always have a volume block set up for a solo boost. I do not use "Multi" on my input blocks but instead select "Guitar" or "Aux" depending on whether the preset is intended for acoustic or electric. I tried using "Multi" when I started and if I forgot to turn down the volume knob when I switched guitars I would get feedback from the unused guitar in the middle of a tune. Save yourself the headache. I always use a separate send from the Helix for the acoustic guitar(the XLR output is reserved for my electric guitar) so that I can feed my electric and acoustic guitars to separate channels at the FOH mixer. Both guitars go to the same FRFR stage monitor. I concur with most of the points DunedinDragon already made including his recommendation to use a Helix send to the Voicelive out to FOH. I agree with your concern about potential damage using a compact acoustic amp for heavy electric guitar although I suppose that depends on how tough the amp is. That leaves you requiring a different monitor for the electric guitar. Rather than dragging two monitors to a gig isn't it easier just to use an FRFR(or two for stereo) that is robust enough to deliver both great acoustic and electric tones. Separate acoustic and electric guitar monitors is just too much hassle for me. I would only consider using the AER Compact 60 live for all-acoustic gigs with maybe a bit of light electric guitar. It could probably be made to sound great with the Helix.
-
Using one foot switch to turn one effect on & another one off
HonestOpinion replied to MikeTicehurst's topic in Helix
This thread is a bit old now. You may want to take a look at snapshots for toggling effect bypass states as an alternative to the time-tested and still valid method codamedia provided. Snapshots offer control over a large number of bypass states as well as parameter setting changes with the click of a single switch. Easy to program too. -
You said you did a factory reset. Are you on the latest firmware as well? I suppose this could be a problem with the fv30h pedal rather than the HX Effects. Do you have access to another one you can test with? Can't explain why the toe all the way down behavior is erratic. Clutching at straws but does changing the value of the global parameter "EXP2 Pedal Position" make any difference in your tests? Also doubt it will help but have you tried setting the volume block's parameter 'Curve'="Logarithmic". What happens when you go into the "Controller Assign" screen and set the "Max Value" for the volume pedal block to for example 90%? Granted none of these settings should make a difference but still curious if they do?
-
Given the way you would like to use this switch I see your point about making a single press an option for the tuner for folks who don't use the tap tempo or would like it assigned elsewhere. You might be able to do a PITA workaround by using the MIDI loopback trick. You take a short MIDI cable and loop it from the MIDI In to the MIDI Out ports on the HX Stomp. Set up a MIDI command on the Tuner/Tap swtich to activate the tuner in the Command Center. Using this method would prevent you from having to bring an extra MIDI controller and only requires a MIDI cable. I have some specific instructions on how to set up MIDI loopback commands at the link below that you could adapt for your intended purpose. It is easy to set up.