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I would go 4cm because it gives you the flexibility of using the preamp in your amp (probably won't color the sound all too much) or bypass it and to to the power amp using the preamp models in the Helix. You can also take the XLR outputs to PA as necessary. So you will be hearing yourself through your amp, and also through FOH. There are lots of videos on how to connect the 4cm. Do a quick google search and you will be on your way.

I do this all the time. I have presets with snapshots that I use as templates. Ultimately, I land up changing parameters on the snapshots that I change, but at least the snapshot names and the order of the foot switches stay the same.

That would be even better (not using midi/usb converter). How did you do it?

Another added note about the G10 XLR out: Supposedly the XLR output does not have "cable tone technology". Only the 1/4" out does. I can't remember where I read that though and I can't seem to find it.

Sweet, I'll give it a go on Monday and report in.

The control function diagram at the bottom of the page in the link below shows an active preamp AND gain boost. You may have to open a support ticket with Line 6 and they could walk you through fixing the issue with the Luke III specifically. https://www.music-man.com/instruments/guitars/luke-III

Did you open a support ticket with Line 6?

I agree that it is high, but my initial estimate on components put it in that range (plus a markup for labor). I was also thinking that I could make a 5v to 9v converter that would plug into the micro usb on the G10, and you would strap a black cable tie around the base to retain it. Then you would just plug your standard 9v supply into that. If I get creative, I could get it down to around $25.

Sounds like they had a run of units that had a weak point in the micro USB port/board connection. Perhaps they fixed that particular issue.

Not all power supplies are created equal. I've used some cheap wall warts just laying around the house on some pedals, and they created a LOT of noise in the pedal. You should be in good shape with the OneSpot. They have some pretty trash free DC power. Turn on the noise gate at the beginning of your chain too so that noise from the pedal is only there while you are playing.

Does the pedal sound like that when going direct to your amp?

Anyone have any experience using Helix to control a sheet music app on an iPad? I am looking at possibly sending midi CC commands to an iPad running an app something like what is in the link below, via USB/Midi converter and lightning connection kit. Seems pretty straight forward, just wanted to get any input from anyone doing something like this. http://www.deskew.com/products.html

That is my favorite as well and I play on that model for hours at a time. I have not experienced that issue. What firmware are you running and what guitars are you using? Try running your guitar through the aux input to see if you get the same result.

I have a G10. I'll give that a try when I get back home next week.

I like it. I set the low cut to 150Hz and it sounded quite nice and full with the Mesa MkIV channel 2 model on clean/cruch gain and single coils. I'll definitely experiment pairing it with other amp models.

Forum needs a firmware update.

Just trying to get an idea if anyone would want something like this... Would anyone here pay $30-50 (price unknown at this time) to be able to convert 9 volts from your standard pedal power supply barrel type connector to 5 volts micro USB connect to the back of the Relay G10? This would allow you to slap the G10 base on to your pedalboard and power it off of whatever 9 volt supply you are using.

I just went for it. I had a cable laying there just in case. It would only take about 5 seconds to connect a cable from guitar to Helix if necessary. The most important thing to do is to ensure that all the other wireless devices are up and running before you power up/dock the transmitter so that the G10 gets them all in its scan before it assigns its own frequency. When you dock the transmitter, it scans all signals in the frequency range and automatically assigns a free frequency. If you play the thing at home and don't re-dock it at church, it will still have the same frequency it that it had at home. That's where you run into issues. If you buy it from Sweetwater (no tax, free shipping) you can always return it at no cost if it doesn't work out for you.

I have a couple of small combos that I use, Fender Blues Deluxe Reissue and a Blackstar Studio 20. I use the 4 cable method so I can run effects into front end and also in the effects loop. Or you can bypass the preamp and use models into the power amp. With the Blues Deluxe on clean I run amp models into the front end of the amp and they sound great. I also run just direct to the FOH and monitor the mix through in ears a lot too (no guitar amp). There is a lot of flexibility. I would try it before spending any extra money. You may be happy with it.

Physical connection is my initial thought. Make sure the lighting port on the iPad is free of debris. I have also had some lightning connectors that had an unreliable connection, but rotating the connector 180 degrees fixed it. You had two different apps open (Garageband and something else), both interfacing with Helix USB?

Thanks for the update. About 90% of the time someone posts an issue on the forums, but we never find out what their resolution was.

I agree totally. Helix is a digital modeler of amps, cabinets, and effects. Some of the byproducts that we are encountering from snapshots comes from instantaneous changes in certain parameters on the models. If you were able to recreate instantaneous changes on the "analog" versions, you venture to guess that you would hear the same byproducts. The amp example above would be similar to having your clean fender amp on "standby" then taking it off of standby while there is a hot input signal going into the front end of the amp. Snapshots is a fantastic function, but you do have to understand what it is doing and what some of the "negative" byproducts that may occur when making drastic changes between snapshots. These are not bugs or glitches. They are just what happens when making instantaneous parameter changes or turning something off/on in the middle of a hot signal.

Open a support ticket with Line 6 so they can address it.

You can't run Helix directly into a passive speaker because there needs to be an amplifer to drive the speaker. That is why you need to run it into an active speaker. What Fender amp do you have? If it has an effects loop, you can still play Helix through that with the 4 cable method.

A separate Windows driver file is mentioned here: http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/helix/how-to-update-the-helixs-firmware-r776 There is no driver file necessary for Mac. The USB in/out connections happen automagically on the Mac without the need for a driver.