CraigGT

Ahh, the OP said it was a floor model, he meant shop floor :-)

It's footswitch 3&4

There is a hardware test mode that can prove the function of all the controls, I can't remember what footswitch combo it is at the moment though.

But it proves that he can use the search and that's got to be a good thing :-)

It will limit your options a bit compared to a send/return block but use Digital as the output of path one and SPDIF as the input to path two.

Typically in a tube amp as Zolko60 said, presence is generated in the negative feedback loop and actually boosts high frequencies so it's default (not doing anything) setting would be 0. All other tone controls are cut only so their defaults would be 10. Then again most amps would sound horrible like that but that's why we have tone controls :-)

Try changing your "Select" option to 1(tip).

Coming from a long background in communications and being taught about characteristic impedances many many years ago, has anybody ever had any issues with using a standard XLR cable for this function that were resolved by using a 110 Ohm one? Just curious Craig

Ok try this, Pedal up, play chord, pedal down to swell it in, pedal up play another chord continue until bored :-) Poly Swell.hlx

Saying that, there can be four "I can't find the new amps" posts on the front page and people still make new ones so why bother having a search function?

I came up with a method that uses the pedal in a Gilmour style, I can attack a preset if you're interested.

I didn't think the Diezel would be my kind of amp but that patch sounds awesome with my strat.

Yes @HonestOpinion is correct, there's also an LED test mode if you hold down FS2 at power on.

Yes but then a ribbon cable connects it to the lower board, on mine it was defiantly the cable that had broken.

That's why I needed to change the LEDs in mine, initial attempts to reflow the solder joints damaged the LEDs.

People say the joystick issue is a soldering problem but it's not, it's caused by the multi axis movement taking it's toll on the wires.

On the floor it's set per preset in Command Center.

I've had this myself, I'd go down the support ticket route first, it's not an easy DIY job. It's not unheard of for a solder joint to go dry but tackling that may lead to the LED needing replacing (that's what I had to do) Have a look at the picture to see if you'd fancy doing that, there's four connections on it!

I've just had a thought, I don't know the HXFX but the Helix floor has an option for Ext amp, in your case it should be set to 'Tip-to-sleeve' I can see how the other settings could upset the HXFX unit.

Or maybe an easier way to test, Unplug the cable from the Helix and short the tip and sleeve together and see if your amp pops when it switches. If it does then try connecting an LED across the tip and sleeve and see what that does. if it does nothing then try the LED the other way around. The LED should light when it switches the amp. It's only 5V so it wont bite if you just hold it on there.

I seem to recall from somewhere that the Helix Ext Amp is not a relay contact so it's presumably an FET. I just tested mine and it goes between an open circuit and 7 ohms with no DC voltage so it's still pretty much a switch. However my Mesa footswitch has an LED in series with the switch so it's not completely like for like. Try putting an LED in the tip wire of your cable to see if that improves matters, it'll only work one way round but you won't damage anything if you get it the wrong way first time.

Ahh sorry it seems that you can't access the test modes on the Rack. Unless anyone else knows otherwise of course.

To prove this as a hardware fault or not, Start your Helix in test mode with FW 3&4 held down. Select UI Test Turn the Joystick - ENCJ value should change Move the Joystick - JOY U D L R should go green Press The Joystick - ECCJ should go green.

I'm not sure that test is entirely valid. With B polarity inverted you only hear the difference between the two signals so with the same amps, cabs and mics the difference should be zero and that's what you hear. If you use different mics then you would expect to hear the difference between the two mics, whether that's due to phase response or frequency response is irrelevant, it just proves that the mics are different. the same goes for anything else on the parallel paths.

'Honkyness' is nearly always a product of comb filtering caused by phase errors or time alignment issues. I had a similar problem recently that turned out to be a bad sleeve connection in the 1/8" - 1/4" adapter on my headphones. It could also be a function of a parallel path somewhere in your patch.