CraigGT

I fixed mine but it was a lot of hassle, I probably wouldn't attempt it again.

Yes the IECs are just wired together but the power supply is as in my link.

It's not complicated, it's just a fused IEC inlet wired to an outlet and an encapsulated power supply for the 9V, Something like this https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/embedded-switch-mode-power-supplies-smps/1812201 I've searched but I can't find any pictures of the insides. Craig

Thanks

No but I made one of these instead, Mains in, Mains out to the Helix and 9V out to power the pedals. Craig

Sorry but that's not correct, Hum is noise at the mains frequency generally caused by grounding issues in the amp Ripple is noise at 2x mains frequency caused by insufficient smoothing of the rectified ac from the power transformer. Hum can also be caused by magnetic coupling between the power transformer (PT) and output transformer (OT) but that would just be bad design, there isn't an IP transformer. Craig

All my old presets have the wait time set to 0 as default so have you restored from a backup and allowed the Helix to rebuild presets after the update? This procedure is when presets get updated and new parameters added and would explain what you're seeing. Craig

Also if your paths are going to the same output, you are mixing a straight signal with the fx loop signal and that's bound to cause phase issues.

There were issues with time alignment of loops in previous builds. Update it to V3.11 and see if it clears up. IIRC the issue only affected the top path so try moving the blocks to the lower path to prove that it's the same issue. Craig

I don't think it will make any difference either because I suspect all the processing will be done in the Control and communicated to the Rack. Mr Noisy did say "just tried a 3rd Ethercon cable - borrowed from internet router" I was just pointing out that that wouldn't have been an Ethercon cable. Craig

There seems to be some confusion here, if you're borrowing cables from your router then they are Ethernet cables not Ethercons. The connectors you pictured are Ethercons, they are much more rugged and provide a better ground connection.

Glad you got it sorted.

Firmware V3.0 introduced a "Wait Time" parameter to midi messages being sent out as Instant Commands. It might be worth checking the settings for that.

I've not listened to it but turning Hum and Ripple down will probably fix it.

I wouldn't worry about losing the ground reference, it sounds like you already have two :-) I think my PC psu is a bit noisy so I've previously had to disconnect the ground to the Scarlett but I also have a large fan in my room and everytime I turned it on or changed the speed my Scarlett would go silent and I'd have to reset it. It took ages to find a solution to that but I had to disconnect the ground to get the Scarlett quiet so It ended up with a disconnected ground but with a capacitor to couple the spikes across to ground. Hence all the heatshrink!

Just incase your thinking that you might blow something up, here's the USB cables for my Helix and Scarlett interface.

Get a cheap usb lead, nibble at it with cutters until you can see the wires and cut the black one. Save yourself the expense of an isolator and if it doesn't work you've only wasted a dollar!

Got there in the end :-)

The latest versions include additional checking that IR's are good and not installing any that don't meet the criterium, If this happens HXEdit will warn you. I seriously doubt that's what happened here though and suggest you follow Phil's advice.

What about the part about updating HX Edit?

In case you missed it, it's just been released. Don't forget to read the instructions!

The recommended method is to use HX Edit and that seems to have worked for you. The updater is only really as an emergency measure.

Using the updater doesn't force you to make a full backup like HXEdit does but if it's new to you then that probably doesn't matter.

People on here have posted sources of replacements for broken footswitches, you might be able to search for that and see if there is a more suitable alternative for you. The actual electrical switches (at least on the floor model) are a standard tactile pcb switch so I doubt it's the actual switch that's too noisy.

You're welcome, have fun down the rabbit hole :-)