Kilrahi

No.

I am using the following midi controller: https://www.amazon.com/MeloAudio-Commander-Multi-Effects-Portable-Controller/dp/B07DQPTZ1F/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=midi+commander&qid=1557086898&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1 It's a solid price and I got it on sale to boot. The only issue with it is it can't send CC value numbers, only CC numbers. What this means is that it can't control snapshots, or allow you to use it to cycle footswitch modes UNLESS you have it mimic FS4 and FS5 and then in your global settings set FS4 and FS5 to cycle footswitch modes. Other than that though, it's a great price and has a lot of control options. In terms of the looper, it works perfectly. Another option I see, and the cheapest option, that people really love is the DMC Mircro: https://www.disasterareaamps.com/shop/dmc-micro. My understanding is it CAN send CC values, but of course, it only has two buttons, but I think those two buttons have several options such as quick press, long press, where the midi commander doesn't. Still, only two buttons can be confusing. The gold standard for midi controllers remains this one: https://www.morningstarfx.com/mc6-mkii

Unfortunately no for either. I hate the one button looper, which is why I finally got a midi controller for when I'm using the looper.

Sheesh. This sense of being owed something is why we can't have nice things. I remember when I bought a 500x HD it dropped on price $100 a month late. Still loved the damn thing.

Some of us play a lot of stuff outside of E standard. That's part of why I got a Variax.

You could, but it seems simpler to run the Stomp to the Powercab and then the Powercab to the front of house.

That's correct. That setup should work perfectly. As an FYI, the FX block has a mixer on it. I believe it defaults to 50%, which means 50% of your dry signal passes through it. If you move it to 0% all of your dry (with none of the external effects) are heard. If you move it to 100% you get all of the wet with no dry. Knowing this you can tweak the mixture to your liking. Have fun . . .

I have a feeling this is going to be long as hell as it's late, I'm bored, and I'm hoping my last half a year of HX Stomp info dump will be useful for you. The below is FAR from all that can be learned from the device, and I've no doubt others see it differently or have different tips, but hopefully some of the below is a useful starting point for experimentation. Buckle up! The hard part with diagnosing exactly how you want to use your chains is I'm not sure which pedals on your board you're wanting to keep and which ones you are wanting to discard. As a Stomp user, the more you can save on blocks the better. One thing to keep in mind, most users would NOT use a pre-amp - those are options for when people are using a traditional amp and skipping the traditional amp's pre-amp. I say MOST because for almost everything out there there is an exception to the rule. For example, I've seen some people use them almost like extra distortion pedal choices. It can be cool, but I wouldn't start there when you're just getting your feet wet. So let's imagine, just for the sake of easy peasy, that you have only ONE pedal and it's a delay pedal. Here's how I would personally do the Stomp chain: [OD Block] + [Volume Block] + [Amp + Cab block] + [FX Send/Return Block] + [Reverb Block] = 5 blocks with room for 1 more In the above imaginary setup, the FX send/return block would be where your REAL delay pedal was housed. You could also use other pedals along with it, and they would all be part of that signal chain. There's a few things to keep in mind: 1. This is not EXACTLY like your real amp setup (i.e. you don't have your time based effects sitting in between a pre-amp and an amp). This distinction is generally believed (and I agree with it) to not matter in the world of modelling, but it's also kind of something you don't have a choice about since the HX line does not have separate pre-amp and amp only blocks (the amp block INCLUDES the pre-amp - if you use both you're doubling up and often creating baked lollipop). There ARE people who try to come up with ways to feel like they're closer modelling the real world setup, but in my opinion there is no real gain to doing this. You can form your own opinions, but I still wouldn't recommend you start there, ESPECIALLY with only six blocks. 2. A lot of Helix users like separating the amp and cab blocks. I don't believe this is because the amp/cab block is weaker than split versions of themselves, but rather because the full Helix has SO many blocks that it allows them more control doing it this way (i.e. when in this habit they can have one amp split into separate paths with two cabs, etc.). Technically you can still do some of this craziness with the Stomp, but again, with only 6 blocks, I generally think it's not worth it and it's better to use the combo. 3. Many people believe that the stock cabs aren't near as good as 3rd party IRs. I do not share this view, but a lot of people do and it's not a path you should ignore if you find you aren't getting the stock cabs to sound like you want. Even if you do like them, there's nothing wrong with choices. I have a few IRs, and I prefer stock cabs, but I'm glad I have the IRs, may purchase more someday, and I do play with them from time to time. If you were to do that, my original chain from above but with an IR would usually look like this: [OD Block] + [Volume Block] + [Amp Block /NO cab] + [IR Block] + [FX Send/Return Block] + [Reverb Block] = 6 Blocks As a Stomp user myself, I have found with creativity 6 blocks gets me there more often than not. Even with that said, I still use a pedal board sometimes, but when I do it is 100% about taking a load off the Stomp to allow for more creative crap (often with dual amps). In other words, the goal is to SAVE on blocks. My only reason for using real pedals is if I legitimately can not get that from the Stomp (like the freeze pedal) or to save on DSP in the Stomp. In my opinion, ALL of the Stomp's effects are awesome, but if you are going to nuke them distortions and reverbs are the best choices because they so often work great at the FRONT and the END of a signal chain, and I can incorporate them into the Stomp WITHOUT using an FX block. So for example this is how mine is laid out: [Real EHX Freeze Pedal] + [Real Compressor] + [Real Distortion #1] + [Real Distortion #2] + [Real Distortion #3] + [HX Stomp amp] + [HX Stomp Split Path] + [HX Stomp split cabs] + [HX Stomp Delay] + [Real Reverb]. The problem with using other real effects instead of the Stomp's (like delays, phasers, flangers, etc.) is that often they sound best at a midpoint, which requires the use of a Stomp FX block - which eats a block. You also often want trails for things like delays, and if you try that with a FX block and a real delay pedal you find it kills the trails and doesn't sound as good as you hope. Finally, you can attach things like expression pedals and switches to the volume settings of amps and other volume settings within the Stomp often creating exactly what you are trying to do with a volume block, which is how you can often use that precious 6th block for something else. See the vid below for more of what I'm saying there. When I was first getting the Stomp, the below video was a game changer for getting me to think outside of a traditional view of things. It really is far more powerful than the old school way of looking at problems if you let it be.

Well dang, you killed the image. Good info though. I did wonder if the -20 dB would work.

You can get it to change between all of the modes - I know it's just about the same thing but still I like to explain exactly what it does. It's done in the global settings. You'd set either FS4 or FS5 to scroll through footswitch modes. In fact, you could set them both to do it with one going "up" and the other going "down." I use a dual expression pedal with a toe switch and set the toe switch to advance upwards through the modes. Then I use the expression pedal itself to control volume, etc.

Yes, but you have to get rid of one of the other effects. So if you want two stomps, then a mod or a delay has to be changed to a Stomp. I don't ever edit on the device, I use the app, but I assume it's very similar. Touch the "mod" box which pulls it up. Then press the "mod" symbol (wavy lines) to bring up the different types. Now, press in the same spot as before the word "type." That takes you out to the screen that shows "drives & dynamics," "mods," "delays," and "filters, synths, and pitch." In this case touch "drives & dynamics," and then choose the type of stomp you want.

I've had it happen twice in a seven month period.

Unfortunately, if you're using both FX loops for pedals then no, not really. If you're going full mono then you can split the main outputs, but they'll have your amp modelling in them and often that sounds like garbage if you double it up on a regular amp. If your regular amp has an effects loop and can be a pretty solid clean amp you could try plugging the Stomp main out into the FX return and seeing if it sounds OK that way, but it's kind of a crap shoot. It can also depend on just what exactly your actual signal chain is. So, for example, if you have a pedal that will have two outputs and one of those, in your FX loop, comes before the amp modelling, you could plug that section into your amp and it might sound okay. So there are options, but it might require more devices than the Stomp itself.

If you have an effects loop then the four cable method is definitely the way you want to go. It allows you to have the effects before the pre-amp that you'd like (often distortion, compressor, etc.) and the effects after the pre-amp (time based effects usually). It'll sound great. If you still want to use your Line out to record you can, and best of all it will sound really awesome. The four cable approach is definitely the way to go. The signal chain is pretty easy too. Simply place the effects you want before the pre-amp, then add and activate an FX send/return block, and then place the effects that you want after the pre-amp. Your IR would likely go just after the FX send/return block. Done.

I was kind of in the same boat as you. I own a Les Paul, an Ibanez Prestige, and four different acoustics and found myself craving a Strat. I never had money for gear because I'd blow it on a new guitar (not that I would have a lot anyway, but still). Finally I heard about the Line 6 Variax, and it intrigued me. I've met people who claim that the modelling sounds nothing like the real guitars - I happen to disagree quite a bit there, but I also don't care. There isn't another guitar on the planet with the tonal possibilities of a Variax, regardless of how close it gets to the real guitars it's modelled on. So that's always my rec for a swiss army knife guitar. I bought one a few years ago and while I'm sometimes tempted to buy a new guitar just because it's fun, I have largely been able to stay out of the fray and focus on things like buying the HX Stomp. So that's my two bits.

It's funny how one little detail can completely change everything. All this time, I assumed the amp didn't have an effects loop.

Yeah, exactly, that was my rec too. Without knowing his goal on amplification, it's hard to know if this solution works for the OP. They could still plug the cab into the load box, it just won't have post amp effects. It could function as a dry signal, as was mentioned above for a wet/dry/wet rig.

It just sort of depends on what he's trying to do. To be honest, I wasn't entirely certain the loadbox he's using makes for the best FX loop in the first place. Nevertheless, the manual indicated this is the best option for an FX processor, and I'd tend to agree. The question then becomes what do you amplify it with? Edit: Also, as you pointed out above, it would appear to be the ONLY option (well, or the XLR out) unless he wants to reduce his Helix to a smoking cinder.

Yes. I'm not familiar with Planning Center. A quick Google search looks like it's a mobile device app. In that case, then yes, you can connect mobile devices (as long as they have a headphone jack or some sort of dongle substitute) to the Helix. It looks like you're using iPhone, so USB options do exist. See below. You have two possible options. One is to use a headphone jack dongle and plug a TRS to TS Y cable into the FX returns on the Helix. Another option is to purchase the iPhone/Pad camera connection kit ($30 - $50). This will allow you to stream audio via USB 1/2 channels. Those should work fine. Keep in mind the Helix Floor has the advantage of more inputs and outputs. So, for example, if you get an LT you can plug your mobile device in to the FX returns but if I remember right with the LT each one is a TS signal so you have to buy a cable TRS to TS Y cable to preserve the stereo sound (this is what I had to do with the smaller HX Stomp). With the Helix Floor, though it's more expensive, if you do use two of the FX returns you still have two more sets. The full floor also has a digital in jack. Both systems will work fine with iPhones as long as you have the camera connection kit.

Edit: As rd2rk points out, any of the outputs on the back would appear to reduce your Helix to moldy cheese. I initially thought the -20dB attenuated speaker output was a simple line out but at second glance that isn't the case. Based on a quick glance, I think so. I'd use the "Line" (Dry) plug on the front of the loadbox to connect to your Helix. So it'd look like: Helix send 1 to amp input >>> amp output to loadbox input (the one with the red circle) >>> Line (Dry) out to Helix return 1.

I suppose here is a commentary on it from a Line 6 team member which is likely the final word (it's entirely possible on the smaller 20 watt it can't produce enough power to risk blowing the speakers, hence the bass guitar setting): In summary, be cautious if you do it. You shouldn't try to rock the house in this scenario.Headphones would be fine though.

Here's a NAMM add pushing the smaller Spider V as a good choice for a bass guitarist. I highly doubt it's older brother is going to choke trying to do the same thing: https://www.musicradar.com/news/summer-namm-2018-line-6-reckons-its-new-spider-v-20-is-the-ideal-practice-amp-for-any-guitarist

The smaller 20 watt version literally has a setting called "bass." Are you saying they intended that for a guitar? To be clear, I would never suggest this as your go to amp for bass, and I'm also not suggesting you crank the volume and go pedal to the metal either, but it was on this board in another thread I first saw people here say it would work, and it does seem to. In the above user's case, where his amp broke, it could temporarily fill the void until a new one can be bought.

I just have to say, if they gave out Academy Awards for gear creativity solutions, this would be the 2019 winner. Nice.

I've seen other examples of people doing this. The only thing I can't speak to is if it has any impact when the battery runs out of enough charge. I assume it doesn't and that the Stomp will simply turn off rather than try to run on a dying battery. I have to say though, it is this last aspect that would most make me wary of using a battery. Again though, I've seen a few do it. As long as the power source is supplying adequate power when using the Stomp, be it a plug or a battery, it should be fine.