Kilrahi

What's 2.8?

I think a lot of people just choose to bend over. However, to avoid bending over, I think the next best approach is to drop $20 on a dual foot switch and $10 on a TRS cable for it. Then you no longer have to bend over.

My apologies Dave. I screwed you up. I was sharing my settings with you, but I forgot that I now have Helix Native which I use, connected to the Stomp, do monitor my DAW. Since you don't have Helix Native all you were going to get is a dry guitar signal. Silverhead is a pro - much more so than me, so I'd try those settings first. USB 5 & 6 are usually for reamping settings though and so I think you'd have to change some other details or you'll hit a road block again. Still, give it a go first. Honestly, to help you'd it'd be easier to know what you want to do. If you are creating a recording, I strongly recommend using the Stomp's hardware monitoring over the software. Usually I create a dry track and a processed track. Are you wanting any dry tracks? If Silverhead's approach doesn't work, try this: Daw Settings: 1. USB Inputs 1 & 2 2. USB Outputs 1 & 2 Stomp: 1. Turn down the output block to as far negative DB as it will go. If that still doesn't work, let me know, and I'll fiddle around with it too. I have done what I think you're wanting to do before, it's just a matter of remembering how. There wasn't much purpose for it (for me) when I did it so it's remembering what the exact settings were.

What device are you using? If I remember right, other users with older IOS devices have had success by installing earlier versions of the app.

Steps 1 & 2 were for the DAW. Step three is in the HXS.

I'm just a Reaper guy. Does Ableton offer a lot of things Reaper doesn't over all?

Okay, now what you're trying to do makes more sense to me. The easiest way is just a split at the very end, one going to your amp, the other your DAW. This sounds a lot like what you're already doing, and the Helix usually has plenty of blocks for this. The only downside is if you want to be listening to how it sounds in your DAW. In my opinion, you're still better off with Helix as your DAW because none of the amp in the room stuff comes through. Granted, I don't know what type of cab modelling the Powercab uses when it does its amp in the room modelling (aren't there six amp choices? Going off memory here). If it were me, I'd try to find a cab in the Helix that closely matched how the Powercab sounded in the DAW. Then I'd connect your Helix to the Powercab through the XLRs. I'd connect your Helix by USB to the PC. I'd then do the following: 1. Set your HELIX output block to 3/4. 2. Keep Helix input set to "multi." 3. Set your DAW master output to 1/2. This should allow you to hear your DAW recording through the Powercab. It will even allow your Powercab to create that amp in the room feel. You might want to test out that approach. Also, I'm going by memory here on the Helix DAW settings, but I KNOW I'm very close so if you try it and it doesn't work let me know. One time I created an excruciating feedback loop that about brought the whole house down because my USB settings were borked.

Those are all good points, but to do the above there would be no need for an elaborate signal chain. All you would have to do is go: 1. Helix signal path without cab block plugged straight into Powercab. 2. Powercab with IR or cab block. 3. Output from Powercab to DAW w/DAW set to use Powercab as sound card. My confusion and replies stems from the question on how much complexity to have. If you like hearing the Powercab, awesome, but you don't have to sacrifice anything by doing so.

Interesting. Kind of like sipping Coke out of a wine glass (to be clear - in my analogy Coke is the premium product). I wonder if it would be better/possible to change the point of reference then. Use the Lavry as the central hub. I see many Lavry DAC's have USB inputs and XLR inputs. Could the OP connect the Stomp's main left/mono output via a 1/4 TRS to XLR cable into the DAC's XLR input, and then connect the Macbook via USB, and listen through the DAC's headphone jack? Either way though, he talks about shunting the sound through the Mac's speakers, which is like taking a premium drink like Coke but waiting to take a swig of it until someone else has turned it into high grade p1ss. I may have gone off the deep end with this reply. It's Friday and I'm done.

That's the thing though. If you're after the one thing the Powercab can do that the Helix can't (amp in the room feel) that will never end up on your recording anyway. Everything else will sound the same no matter how you do it. It's possible I'm just not understanding what you're trying to do, but it seems like a straight signal chain is all that's needed. Maybe post a picture of your signal chain if you get a chance.

I've been following this thread kind of loosely. Finally though, I just gotta ask since so much work was put into it. I'm not trying to slam you, I'm more just always curious about the ways people like to do things. Why do you want to go this way? It seems like it would be so much easier to just listen to it all through the Stomp. Numerous nights a week I plug my PC into my Stomp via USB, and select some youtube recording to jam along with. I plug my headphones into my Stomp, or my external speakers into my Stomp, and jam away. They sound far better than my PC speakers would anyway. Is it for convenience sake and a dislike or lack of headphones?

Just to be clear, you want to monitor how you sound playing in your DAW? In addition to what Silverhead said, you would also want to: Steps: 1. Input source - USB 5 & 6 2. Output source - USB 1 & 2 3. Select the final output block in the HX Stomp's signal chain and turn the volume level all the way to as far negative DB as it will go. This should allow you to do exactly that. It's what I always do.

It's not a dumb question, but the Spider IV doesn't have an effects loops so it would be a lot harder to do a traditional 4 cable method. You could kind of run some sounds through the CD/MP3 input but that is an unusual approach that takes a fair amount of fine tuning and the sound doesn't match exactly traditional 4 cable. You can certainly plug the Firehawk into the front of it, but you'd be stuck not using its internal amp models and post amp effects wouldn't be possible. Really, the thing about the Spider IV is its kind of designed to be its own thing. It's not the best device to use with a multi effects unit (IMHO).

There's no advantage that the Powercab has over the Helix. They're the same can modeling. I'd go Helix direct. Only use Powercab for performances. Now, with that preamble, if you really just feel better recording the powercab than choose it direct. As long as your Helix is connected to the Powercab right, it'll all be part of the chain.

So time to open up a support ticket. Clearly something is wrong.

When I hear examples like that, it always just translates in my mind as saying, "I know this really talented guitar player who is a cork sniffing gear snob." People like that exist in any genre or element, from sound, movies, video game machines, to clothing . . . if it were true that there were ZERO musicians out there able to create amazing music with digital modelers then that kind of attitude would be troubling, but that is clearly NOT the case which you yourself pointed out with the reply immediately following it.

It's true there are huge numbers of posts about people struggling to learn how to use their complex digital gear. However, if you go over to places like the Gear Page you'll see there are, arguably, double or quadruple that number of posts about people struggling to know the best way to use traditional gear. The difference is perception. We interpret the digital examples as reasons why they're inferior to traditional gear, and the traditional gear examples as just part of the learning curve. The truth is that both examples are just learning curve examples. Playing music well, particularly on a performance level, has a huge learning curve regardless of the gear. That's part of what should attract us to it.

I think that's an interesting perspective, but I think Line 6 clearly markets it more as a performance unit with the recording aspect channeled more into Helix Native. I think the barriers you talk about with live performance has more to do with the human element. In other words, people have a hard time changing from the ways that they're used to doing them in. I have an uncle who to this day hates driving anything that isn't a stick shift, even though the fact is that a stick shift is now the less efficient and optimal way for any car to run. To him it just doesn't "feel right." For me, the evidence of this comes from watching younger musicians who didn't grow up for decades in the traditional amp approach. Like the younger crowd who has no problem with an automatic transmission "feeling right," the vast majority of them seem to have no problems or concerns gigging with units like the Helix, and indeed, seem to prefer them. We won't know until it happens, but I suspect 50 years from now everyone will recognize that units like the Helix were the natural transition to the future. What will be interesting is when it becomes less about emulating old ways and adapts more to being the best version of what digital can be.

Well, they could conceivably add it later. That might be cool, though the limited number of buttons limits it somewhat. For now though, the midi in is obvious. it allows you to control the Stomp with a Midi controller. The midi out is still useful too. It allows you to connect a midi controller to the Stomp, and then another midi device to the Stomp out, and the messages get passed through it. I currently do this with a midi controller, the Stomp, and the Firehawk 1500.

In the global settings you can set the volume knob to only control headphones. It isn't technically disabling it, but it largely has the same result.

Wait, so which device is giving you the errors? Is it an android device? What model?

Could you explain more about what the problem is? For me it's always been really easy: 1. Be connected to the internet. 2. Open the app - ensure you're logged in. 3. Press the "Tones" option in the lower left of the app. 4. Press the "Cloud" option in the top right. 5. Do a search for the style of tone you want (i.e. "Phil Collins.") 6. Select your choice from the populated list by pressing it (In this case, I selected "I Can't Dance.") 7. Press the "Edit" button in the lower middle of the app. Now your tone is loaded and being run through the amp. If you like the preset then you can tap the "details" option next to tone in the top right of the app to save it to the amp permanently. Once you press that you'll see a lot of details about the preset, with a "Save" disk icon. Pressing the disk gives you the option to save to your personal tones (the app), save to your tones with a new name, save to the Spider V amp, or publish to the cloud (which you wouldn't want to do in this case). Troubleshooting: Occasionally you'll get an error that there is an invalid token when using the app. It's stupid and dumb, but I've always been able to fix it by logging out and logging back in again. Which part of the process does it stall at for you?

Of course you can create that. Though there are a lot of variables to get the exact sound. For example: 1. Telecaster guitar (or something very similar). 2. Amp type: Most of the classic country amps were Fender. I'd start with the Spider's Double Verb which is a model of the 1965 Fender Blackface Twin Reverb. If that didn't work for you I'd move on to the Double Show next. Ultimately though, there are numerous amps that could fill the bill for you. The trick is knowing what settings on the original tube amp did it, and WHY, so that you can try to dial it in on the modeled amp. 3. Compressor - Start with the MXR Dynacomp. I'd begin with the sustain at 40% and the level at 80%. You're likely going to have to adjust to taste here depending on all the other settings as well as how you tend to play. 4. Delay - Begin with the analog delay model. Have the feedback low (you're usually after single repeats). Adjust delay time to taste, but usually you'll be on the shorter end of things. 5. Reverb - I don't know that this is needed, but I'm just going to throw this out there that to me just about everything sounds better with at least some reverb, including country twang. The above is where I would start to find your sound. Just like in a real world setup, there will be tweaking to be done. It takes practice and experimentation. You should also do a search in Line 6's "CustomeTone" section (https://line6.com/customtone/search/?submitted=1&family=spiderv&search_term=country) for country and check out a number of those presets to see if any previous users have already nailed the sound you are after. If they have, by all means use it, BUT you should still carefully review what they did and how so that you can learn to do it yourself. The Spider V is a very versatile amp. With patience and practice you can get it to sound like just about anything.

Yes, you can do that. For the Stomp, you would need to identify what buttons on the HX Effects you wanted to control the Stomp, and then have them send out CC#71, Value #2 for preset and #3 for snapshot. At least, that's the most obvious way to do it. You could also send out CC#71 and value 4 or 5 to cycle through footswitch modes, but that would also cause you to have Stomp or Scroll mode pop up.

I think if you're dead set on keeping your amp setup then the HX Effects would work best for you. It'll be light and breezy lemon squeezy too . . .