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Everything posted by Kilrahi

  1. Unfortunately I bought the adaptor for the android phone instead of the IOS adaptor because it was cheaper and I was broke. I still intend to buy the IOS one. My hope was the apps would work similarly. Typically Line 6 has tweaked their Apple version first rather than the android one, so if it works in android usually it works in IOS. Your experience so far would seem to argue otherwise though.
  2. Interesting. The HX Stomp manual doesn't specify that it needs a special expression pedal. It only recommends the Mission one because it can actually act as a dual pedal (for wah and volume - thus saving space). Based on the manual alone, my assumption would be the Boss FV-500H would be no problem at all. However, generally I trust user reviews more than general manual guidelines as long as those users have actually tried it. One user, you can chalk it up to user error. Multiple users you can start to assume there's a problem. Did you read reports of users who've actually tried it failing? It would be surprising to me because expression pedals are actually pretty simple circuitry and it's hard for me to fathom the Stomp failing with any pedal designed for general use. To answer your second question, as far as I know any normal expression pedal would be just fine. So if the Boss one failed for some inexplicable reason it would be a unique case, and any other expression pedal you liked should work just fine.
  3. It was a few days ago that I looked at the thread, but if I remember right it looks like it was never intended as an official notice of an official update. Someone posted that they wondered when we'd get another update, and it just so happened Digital Igloo replied, probably as an after thought, and said, "Hey, it's actually coming pretty soon here, and here's kind of what we've done . . ." I still get where you're coming from. Obviously he replied there because he's more active in that forum, and you do kind of wish the official forum had the same amount of activity, but my hunch is this one is scanned less because it's seen as more of a user/technical support forum and their perception is the users do just fine handling most of those issues. Meanwhile, they love music, gear, etc. and there are more interesting general gear conversations over there.
  4. I wish. I'd buy that in a flash. I used a Firehawk before the Stomp and so it was tough to kiss the VDI integration goodbye. Still is because I play unusual tuning stuff frequently. However, you should know that OTHER than that the battery method and model switching works pretty well. The battery is supposed to be good for at least ten hours. I can confirm it lasts at least eight.
  5. Is interesting to see that infidelity exists rampantly in guitar gear too. Some people just can't stop chasing tail ... err ... I mean tone.
  6. Hmmm. It seemed to work just fine for me, but that's not to say I didn't run into issues. The issue I kept running into is that it would say "invalid token" and wouldn't let me do anything. It wasn't until I logged back out of the app and then logged back in that it would let me do it. Once I did it worked just fine. In fact, it was kind of cool because it had my Firehawk presets available too. Wasn't expecting that but it was fun. Here's the steps I followed: 1. Log out and log back in. 2. Touch "edit" menu. 3. Create tone. 4. Touch "details" menu. 5. Touch "disk" image. 6. Touch "Save to my tones as." Then it worked just fine. At which step does yours hang?
  7. I apologize, it's been one of those times where I've been away from the guitar and amp with no time to mess around, but I'll for sure be able to this weekend. I'll keep you posted.
  8. This is where I fall too. In my opinion your best result is four cable method and either NO amp modeling or ONLY preamp modeling with your Vox doing the amp part.
  9. Kilrahi

    HX Stomp FAQ

    This is the one I use. It's sturdy, runs great. Takes a 9 volt battery. Just make sure you purchase a TRS to split TS cable (though technically this one also takes a single TRS to TRS cable, but I prefer the former because it future proofs you in case you decide to buy the Mission Helix pedal, which is awesome).
  10. Kilrahi

    EQ settings

    Whoa that's kind of a beefy question to unpack. In fact, after writing this it ended up being a bigger beast then I imagined. You may just want to do yourself a favor and skip to the two videos below and see if that solves it first. Then if needed use the below for kind of a summary. Also, there are TWO EQs in the Firehawk, a guitar one and a global. The explanation below is for the simpler guitar only, but there is only one additional concept with the global, so once you have the basics it won't be nearly as hard to get the global down. EQ is one of those things that is nearly impossible to explain in a reply, and yet once it's figured out it's honestly not near as complex (conceptually) as it sounds, though you can freaking find yourself tweaking for hours. . I've spent countless hours trying to get a grip on visualizing it - so I feel your pain. Honestly though, the problem is it's much more simplistic than people tend to think it is. There's a few steps to understanding the Firehawk's EQ, in this order: 1. All sound is really just a specified number of vibrations per second. High frequencies have more vibrations per second than mid range frequencies, and mid range and highs have more than low. What are frequencies? They're basically cycles, or vibrations, per second. 2. You should envision sound as a conceptual wave , and your EQ attempts to mathematically shape that wave. So a sound wave travels - and there are low, mid, and high frequencies. 3. The human ear is a pretty limited beast - of the vibrations occurring in that aforementioned sound wave, it can only hear between 20 Hz and (or 20 cycles/vibrations per second) and 20 kHz (or 20,000 cycles/vibrations per second. Highs are towards the upper level of that. Mids are . . . well, kind of in the middle, and lows are towards the lower end. The older we get the more our ears suck, and most of us can barely manage 16 kHz. 4. A lo shelf and a hi shelf gain is a conceptual straight line - or shelf - at a particular frequency (so, for example, a low shelf set at 133 HZ represents a cut off point - or a shelf - like a metaphorical book shelf if you will, at 133 cycles per second). 5. The second control is a gain. On the Firehawk, you can either boost the gain (for example, by 1 DB - which means decibel) or reduce the gain (such as by -1 DB). What does that mean? Well, if you set the low shelf frequency at 133 Hz, and set the low shelf gain to -4 DB then you are saying I want all low frequencies from 133 (the shelf) or below to be reduced by 4 decibels. If you say +4 DB then you're saying you want them louder by that amount. The same is true of the mid range too. Hi shelfs work in the opposite direction. If you set a hi shelf at 3 khz (or 3,000 cycles per second) at +3 db then you are amplifying everything at that shelf and ABOVE. Reduction does just the opposite. 6. It's over my head as to why, but we don't refer to mid frequency stuff as a shelf. Nevertheless, on the Firehawk, you can set a frequency level for the mid range (for example, 864 Hz) and a gain or reduction just as with the low and high shelfs, and what this means is you are increasing or decreasing the mids at that frequency. 7. Equalizing is not an exact science. Every time you mess with a sound wave something is lost even when something is gained - think of it as the way magic is described in the Harry Potter series (I think it was Harry Potter). Even with shelves, you don't PERFECTLY reduce or amplify any of those frequencies - it's just a rough aproximation of what's happening. There's always a cost. You should keep this in the back of your head to keep yourself from being one of those people who falls down the rabbit hole of EQ'ing a perfectly imperfect gorgeous sound into a smoldering hell hole of slag. Once you've gone over the steps above, here are some tips: 1. A common beginners step with EQ is to "scoop" your guitar's wave. This basically means you raise the lows and highs and either ignore or actually reduce the mids. It's a simplistic way of thinking about it but in the beginning it can be a good starting point. 2. A great approach is to learn off of the Firehawk's presets, both the ones built in and the ones from the tone cloud. EQ is one of the things the presets worked on, so find ones you like and take a look at what the EQ did to HELP with the tone. This did wonders for me as I would pay attention to what generally made an acoustic preset sound good versus an electric. Finally, I wouldn't be surprised if a lot of this still sounds like gobbly lollipop. If you'd like to read up more on it, wiki is a great place, but also this site: https://www.ccisolutions.com/StoreFront/category/mix-like-a-pro-3-understanding-eq AND even better, the two videos below. They're based off the Spider V amp but honestly the Firehawk and the Spider are near cousins in the EQ world. If you watch both videos it should do wonders for you. Honestly you'll probably wonder why you waisted your time on my gobbly lollipop above:
  11. You have to think of a preset almost like it's own pedal board. If you had your looper on one pedal board, but not another, the board without a looper would never be able to loop anything. You'd have to pick it up and carry it to the new board. The above user does give some good ideas that there's no reason you can't throw it before the Helix or after the Helix in your signal chain, but alas, one thing the Helix can't do is anticipate when and where you want a Looper block or effects loop in a new preset unless you tell it so. Maybe the Helix 2026. Good question though. Edit: On a side note, if you're not doing it already, I'd recommend doing massive preset changes with the PC program HX edit. It's honestly pretty fast - comparatively - to drop a looper and FX block where you want it. Not perfect, but pretty fast.
  12. Kilrahi

    HX Stomp FAQ

    Where did you hear that? That's like saying running a Wampler pedal through a looper switcher is a tone killer. An HX Stomp either perfectly takes in your guitar signal and perfectly sends it out processed or unprocessed. All an ES-5 or ES-8 does is choose which flood gates are open. Your Stomp and tone will be just fine.
  13. Kilrahi


    Cool. So you're basically looking for something like this (1/4" TRS Male to 1/4" TRS Male cable): https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-CSS-110-Balanced-Interconnect-Cable/dp/B000068NYG/ref=pd_sbs_267_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000068NYH&pd_rd_r=9453e9e9-0b05-11e9-91e2-f976ad544836&pd_rd_w=sa8Pn&pd_rd_wg=FAUmG&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=F2M9CNEWB779PDP71SKD&refRID=F2M9CNEWB779PDP71SKD&th=1
  14. Kilrahi


    Honestly, to some degree it depends on the type of momentary switch you have. Does the dual switch have one jack or two? Either way, yes, you need a specific cable (not really special - just specific). The most common one for a dual footswitch is one like this: https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/STP202--hosa-stp202-2-meter If you look at it, the single jack that goes into the Stomp has two rings on it - that's a must - it's called a 1/4" TRS cable - then the two cables splitting off the Y have one ring on them - that's because they're 1/4" TS cables. What type of switch do you have? That answer can help people help you better.
  15. I've been watching your videos over the last few days. Cool to see the comparisons. I don't muff myself very often, but I did hear the difference that you heard. I'd be curious to know how the original Big Muff Pi sounds compared to both the Helix and the Nano Muffer you have. I did find this old video comparing M9's Muffer to the original, and they sounded pretty close to each other, and I assume the tech only got better, but your video makes me wonder. How do the other fuzz's on the Helix compare to your needs? Edit: I did find this version comparing to original Big Muff to the Nano and they seem pretty much idnetical:
  16. Anytime you add a block the system has to reserve DSP for it, so yes, they do in a sense consume processing power, even if you just have them bypassed. It assumes there may come a moment where you might want every single one of them active, and for that reason, it won't let you put in too many blocks if it couldn't have them all active at once. I assume you're correct that if they aren't active the processors aren't actually chewing on anything, but I'm curious, have you ever actually felt like the processor was sluggish when you used a large amount of DSP blocks? I've never heard of that.
  17. Yeah that should work. I'm surprised they don't just explicitly call them TS cables so that it can remove all doubt for people buying for the first time, but that should be fine.
  18. Well, I attempted it today and it said invalid token, but I logged out and logged back in and all was well, it has no problems pulling up tones. So I assume for the reset of you this is working as of today too.
  19. This cable will work perfectly. https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/STP202--hosa-stp202-2-meter
  20. You bring up a good point though. If you can come up with a way to provide downloadable updates to nose hair trimmers you might have just created THE next innovation of the 21st century, and be rich beyond the dreams of avarice . . .
  21. I didn't say they are, which means you didn't understand what I said. That may be on me, but considering how hard it is to decipher your stuff sometimes, that is probably somewhat on you too.
  22. Apparently some people just hate being hyped. To me it's like watching the next Avengers trailer. The movie is probably nothing like you envision it, but who cares? If it ends up being an awesome movie, the memory of the hype just makes it all the more cool. If the movie sucks then yeah . . . but that's the risk of getting excited about anything, including Christmas. I say it's awesome, and I'm excited to be excited.
  23. It's a good question, and if you're just wading out into the world of modeling and impulse responses it's justifiably confusing. You can make an IR of anything - and it will do what an IR can do, no more, no less. Including an amp. However, generally speaking an IR of an amp - particularly with the Helix - is seen as a step - or steps - backward, not a step forward. The keyword when it comes to an amp is CONTROL. Ask yourself this: How often do you tweak the settings of your cabinet (answer: never)? How often do you tweak the settings on your amp (answer: a lot). The trick is to realizing what each piece of the signal chain DOES to your sound. What is more important for creating that Vox 30 sound? The amp or the cabinet? It may surprise you to realize that in terms of the actual unique sound you have come to love with the Vox 30, it's the CABINET you like, not the amp. The amp has far more to do with the control of the sound (volume, drive, presence, etc.). That's not to say the amp has zero influence, only to say that the cabinet of the Vox is arguably more important to its uniqueness. In fact, swap the real Vox cabinet with your favorite real Marshall amp and you would notice that it starts to sound a lot like the Vox sound you've always loved BUT with the Marshall controls. So you could control the Vox sound in a Marshall way, which is kind of cool when you think about it. However, perfectly capturing those sounds with the perfect microphone in EXACTLY the way you want it is an absolute pain in the butt, and this is where the joy of IRs come in. Once you, or somebody else has done it in a way that does exactly what you need, you can capture the IR of that, slap it on the end of your amp sim, and walla, now you have it ready to go whenever, or wherever, you need it. It's beautiful. Okay, so back to the Helix. Yes, you could make an IR of the Vox amp - and combine it with the IR of a Vox cabinet . . . but think about what you're losing. You're only getting a teeny snapshot in time of the settings of the amp WITHOUT any distortion/compression (because the IR can't capture that among other things), and you have diddly squat in the away of control over it. Do you want to tweak the drive to get more grit? Yeah, can't do that. Do you want to modify the sag or hum response like you can in the Helix amp sim? Good luck with that. Furthermore, what EXACTLY are you gaining when you give up that control? The amp sim already simulates the stuff the IR does extremely well. So you lost the control . . . you didn't gain any unique sound . . . ummm . . . There's a reoccurring discussion in the Helix group over whether or not stock cabs are as good as IRs. So far it seems like the IR group has largely won (by the way, I'm a person who still tends to prefer stock cabs - frankly I find the complete and 100% allegiance IR love a little baffling but I do respect how easy they are once you find them - but then again, once you find the settings on your stock cab you're set too), but there's not contest between the Helix amp sims and an amp IR. There is a reason nobody . . . or almost nobody . . . is doing it, and until there is some technological breakthrough, that's not about to change. Control is better when you are simulating control (amps), and less important when you are simulating outputs (cabs). When all you're simulating is an output that once you've found you never need to change again, a simulation of that output is divine (cab IR). Still, at the end of the day, sound is sound. By all means, download those amp IRs. Maybe there is an amp you really love that isn't in the Helix, and you want to layer an IR over a Helix amp sim because it sounds really good. Hey, If it causes you to rock the world more power to you. Cool sounds are cool sounds, no matter how they're done. If you're down for a cool read, this was one of the best reads I found: https://www.premierguitar.com/articles/The_Working_Guitarist_All_About_Impulse_Responses
  24. Kilrahi

    Line 6 and THR10

    There's a lot to unpack there, but to answer your direct question, the only cables you will NEED to connect your Stomp to your THR is two standard run of the mill guitar cables. One for the guitar into the Stomp, and one for the Stomp into the THR.
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