Charlie_Watt

TRS cable makes no difference unless you are using the external power supply.

I have not heard complaints about plink on the high E and B strings before. It is usually the Low E and A. Look for a setup problem - Fret Buzz, nut rattle are common causes of modeling artifacts.

This guy has not even responded again. I guess he made his decision and moved on.

I have not heard much about swapping necks on a Standard. Why don't you give it a try and see if it fits. No big deal if it doesn't.

I would let the expert (psarkissian) fix it for you. He has probably seen a bunch of that exact failure. It has been mentioned here that the Strap Screws can hit the board if they are any longer than stock.

There is no data here to support that Variax reliability has changed over the years. Yes some fail but that is true with all electronic items. If there is any MTBF data you are not going to see it here and the data here is skewed because many users never visit this site until they have a problem.

Be careful buying a board - it may not be programmed and you won't be able to do that. Best bet is to send it to a repair shop.

I think you may end up paying much more for the right components if you don't have a donor guitar.

Great! It is good to hear that some repair shops can handle these guitars.

That is not at all normal.

The Variax with models enabled is one of the quietest guitars out there. The Piezo pickups are immune to EMI.

No it is not common. Try it without the battery. If it's still noisy its picking up EMI from your room. It's not the variax electronics unless something is very wrong. They are single coil pickups which are noise receivers anyway. Light dimmers are a common source of noise.

When you buy a used (maybe abused) guitar you have to expect it to need some setup work. But high frets are a mfg problem that should be fixed. You will love this guitar once you get it dialed in though.

You can go into your PC settings and change the volume.

Hard to tell what's wrong if you got it broken. You can send it for repair to Line6. If they still have parts, they can fix it for you.

That is what the volume knobs are for. Turn them until you like the volume!

You can learn a lot about a guitar by listening to it unplugged. Any funny noises need to be dealt with mechanically.

GO play one and see if you like it. I don't like the Standard - I think it is inferior to the JTV 69S which it most closely resembles.

Sounds like it is damaged. It should work the way you are using it. I run mine on batteries but I have also used the XPS box and planet waves TRS cable.

Sweetwater has (at least yesterday they did) a 59 in the Scratch & Dent that was made in 2016! I almost went for it but decided that I don't need another JTV.

If you get a plink with an unconnected guitar, it is a mechanical setup issue. Find what is loose and moving.

Don't blame Line6 for your countries ridiculous tariffs. The battery is about $50 in the US.

The most critical thing about these fancy pedals is the user interface. That is where Helix has gone one up on the previous generations. I too write code for a living and in most cases the user interface is the hardest part of any complex system. In the case of these modelers, they have to appeal to folks that have not a clue as to how they work. That means they have to simulate the way we used to connect individual pedals together. This requires a real good display and user interface. I have never been able to get used to the smaller display on the HD500x and I have to rely on the editor to make changes. I look forward to upgrading to Helix very soon.

Those camera batteries will NOT work in the JTV.

One option is to find and buy the correct connector shells and make your own cable.