waymda

It would be good to know which outputs you're using for the PowerCab vs the monitors - or if you're using the same. Also, how loud have you set the output from the M audio interface. Your mention of digital suggest L6 Link, but that would also indicate a PC+. Either way people tend to use the PC(+) and monitors differently when it comes to controlling volume. Monitors tend to be set as loud as you would want and then we control how much input we send for the volume - pretty much what you did with the Helix. Powercabs are generally better having their volume controlled at the cab, like using a stage amp, and can take quite a hot signal. Because I work live, I have disabled the volume control on my Helix so I can't accidently move it whilst performing. For home use with monitors it runs into a mixer using the XLR outputs. This also means I optimise the output of patches so they are a) consistent in perceived volume, and b) aren't too hot. As I use L6 link to the PC+s I could enable volume control for the XLRs (or line outs) to go straight into my monitors. I could even easily do this using the global settings when at home vs live and hope I don't forget to reset when live. I'm making lots of guesses about your set-up so hope this helps.

Feature request - varous batteries in stomp models kidding

Another option is to build your patches with a send before the cab that allows 100% of signal to the cab and the send. Standardise which send you'll use knowing that you can always take a tap before the cab for every patch with no changes by plugging into the send. Thats a close approximation to what the Pod Go does. rd2rk's approach provides greater flexibility to add additional processing to the amp send independent to the not-amp send to tune either appropriately(eg EQ, gain, compression).

Want a really good gate? Check out the Horizon Gate. I'd previously used both the input gate and others with varying success then found this and change all my patches that use gates.

If the noise goes when you touch the lead I'm pretty sure thats an earth loop/grounding issue - which may be fixable within the Stick.

OK - so the power amp options are only available with the DT units, the Power cab has a poweramp but its 'transparent' and not configurable, it also has speaker models. So an 'ideal' way to do this would be Helix Amp model + Helix Cab to FRFR mode Helix Amp model to PC speaker mode Helix pre-amp model to DT (the have valvle power amp and a normal 12" speaker) However you can mix and match any of the options and (for me) I really enjoy amp models (not preamp) into my DT25s for stage, split before cab models in the Helix. The post cabs sounds go to FoH and in ears and is the same as what I would send to Powercabs in FRFR mode. I can also use the L6 Link Split to run PCs in speaker model mode. Bottom line - do what sounds good to you, and be prepared for your idea of what sounds good to change the more familiar you become with the options and the tools.

You might be best searching a Palmer forum for that - do you think there's a large number of people here with your configuration to provide info? And whilst I love your precision in the question, the answer is not precise. Its an opinion based on the very limited info you've provided. Mr Google found me a bunch of info about that amp - none of it here. Suggest you reference these. https://www.thomann.de/gb/palmer_macht_402.htm https://www.kemper-amps.com/forum/index.php?thread/25526-palmer-macht-402-specialized-guitar-power-amp/ https://www.google.com/search?q=Palmer+Macht+402%2C&rlz=1C1CHFX_enAU660AU660&oq=Palmer+Macht+402%2C&aqs=chrome..69i57&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

So your cab will take 100 watts @ 16 ohm, but you want an amp that will feed it up to 200 at 16 ohm? I can only presume you want it increadibly effing loud and/or have the ability to fry the coils of the speakers. The class of the amp is irrelevant, except that class D amps are modern solid state and light - so long as you're considering RMS not peak wattage rating. Wattage will halve with each doubling of impedance - ie 400 watt@ 4 ohm = 200 watt @ 8 ohm = 100 watt @ 16 ohm So, maybe you've been told to get a 200 watt amp @ 8 ohm? Anyway - even 100 watts @ 16 ohms is pretty high end and you may need to try something lower spec and see if it works for you before forking out the $ to get the sort of power your talking I have a stereo valve power amp that will bridge to 100 watts @ 16 ohms if you want to spend some real $ :)

Hi - I know you've tested the other hardware, but on reflection the symptoms you're talking about sound like a valve failing in the head. Especially if when you turn the Helix off you turn everything else off for a period of time. A failing valve can be inconsistent in impact, introduce noise, lower volume, etc - but generally deteriorates over time and with ambient temps (day of the week etc). Just a thought.

No, no similar issues. Whilst the timing may suggest firmware, the issues sound like hardware - unless the firmware was corrupted on install or installed poorly. I presume its possible to force a reinstall, in which case that would be my first go to, and resetting all global paramters from a known good back-up.

Damn, I was about to post that on IdeaScale.

So what you're really saying is that you're a novice user of modellers (at least), and that you thought a highly complex and flexible piece of audio equipment should sound how YOU want it to out of the box? This probably explains why your due dilligence before purchasing didn't discover the horiffic limitation you've found of 128 IR slots in the product documentation. Rather, you sought to find this in a user forum where the users don't seem to have this requirement. Pleasingly you've found the Fractal, which appears to suit your needs. If your posts stop newbies whinging here because they don't purchase the product, I'm all for it. Line 6 should sign you up as an ambassedor for all novices. So long as those who buy a Fractal on your advice and find it doesn't have their sound have a forum just to flame you, seeings you have it sussed.

Stop dreamng and just do it - you're only torturing yourself.

As a long time Fender player, I would have agreed with your statement had I only ever used the JTV 59s I've owned. Loved the versitility, could never het my hands or heart to enjoy them. I now own 2 Standrards and would happily puchase more. I had them plekk'd and locking self trimming tuners and bone nuts put on them, and they play as well as (if not better) than any fender I've owned. With carefully chosen and modified model banks they more than cater for a range of strat, tele, and gibson tones, with the versitility of adding acoustic, and other tones and custom tunings. Perhaps I'm a fanboy, but for a single guitar that can achive the tones I need (rather than esotieric tones I might like - which an audience really wont give a ship about) that is emminently playable - then yes a variax is fine. I'm simply not interested in having a library of expensive bits of wood, or bragging rights any more - been there, done it. Must be getting old :)

Language differences aside - so what? You prefer other products, why post here? What answer do you want? None of us are Line 6 staff - we use the Helix. I'm sorry you're sad you spent money on a product you don't like, but we can't change that, or make it a product you will like. Forgive the idiom, but 'cut your losses' buy the product you want be done with it. No one here can change the choices you've made or 'fix' the product you purchased.

Yes - they can sure get close enough for live work, but are not for everyone. They work best once you know how to tune the models to your taste, or can find good patches, there are a lot out there. Best of all, with a Helix you can change guitar and/or tuning with a patch change or within a patch with snapshots (you can also control other variax parameters).

Hi I have never experienced what I think you are describing. That is, that the varied tuning changes over time whilst within a patch. Is this what you are experiencing? I have experienced changing the tuning in a patch to have it applied to the next (or others) as I didn't set the following patches to force tuning. I need to force tuning even if back to standard for all patches or the varied tuning remains as per previous. I use tuning extensively, with some patches with multiple tuning changed by snapshots. I would try forcing a rebuild of my patches, possibly post restoring them from a know good back-up in case they've been corrupted. If the issue persists have your friend use his variax with your helix and patches to rule out your helix, maybe trying your guitar with his helix and the patches. This might help you work out if it's patch, helix, or guitar related. The only other bit of hardware to test is the vdi cable - could be the problem? Edit, read you post properly and saw you have rack and floor, so you can at least test that its not the Helix's yourself. Dw

Tough one to answer as (just like speaker IRs) that'll come down to personal taste. I quite like the 3 Sigma IRs and and use a Gibson, Martin, or Taylor depending on use and patch - and I've used them with variax models as well as the acc sim effect. I like the acoustic sounds in the worship tutorials dudes demos's but never shelled out to try the IRs With the variax models I use IRs for straight acoustic sounds. With the effect, for a blend of acoustic with electric using parallel paths - I can't see using the effect as a standalone acoustic sound (for me), even with an IR.

Hi My personal experience with my kids is that the simpler the better initially, with them ramping up the complexity as their understanding and desire 'for more' builds. Its very easy to forget where your knowledge vs theirs lies, and even 2 years of playing is way beyond none. For me I had 20+ years playing before having kids old enough to be involved and the gap was substantial. Through that time I'd started on acoustic, moved to electric with effects and amps, and then eventually modelling. I introduced one of my kids to a simple modeler/multi effects and it blew their mind. My suggestion is build slow, and invest in 'reasonable' simple gear so they're not feeling its all too hard. The ideal is probably buying stuff you may also use and that they will benefit from. There is certainly a point where what you are paying for is more and more esoteric and nuanced to the point your skill level needs to match to know the difference - musical gear is no different to any other product where what people are prepared to pay varies with knowledge + marketing. On the point of variaxes - they're very nice guitars when set-up well. I've owned a few and now use Standards exclusively for live work. However coming back to the point of building skills and knowledge, would you or your kids know what to expect from a Strat/Tele/Les Paul/etc in terms of sound - or perhaps even care? I do think a variax is much better than a bunch of cheap guitars, but it is a significant investment in learning. Perhaps a mid range acoustic and mid range electric of the type a guitarist you really like would be a better starting point? Its a really tough question to answer, and largely driven by your budget - if money is no issue, go for it. If your partner will question why you need more than one guitar definitely a variax. If you want to learn about fender vs gibson etc then definitely appropriately priced examples as a starting point. Perhaps consider what you want first and then hope your kids will share/use the gear is a way of thinking about it.

Reading this it sounds like the mix for the trails is controlled by changes in the snapshot you move to (pretty sure you get this already). The approach holds logically, in that the mix parameter has been assigned to snapshot, the snapshot has changed, the mix parameter changes with the snapshot, and is then reflected in the decay still 'in the reverb'. Imagine a physical reverb unit staying on as you change patches and someone moving the mix parameter, then being turned off. A strange analogy, but I think that's what's happening. If there was a way to queue the 'events' in snapshots you might have a chance, but that sounds a lot like scripting and more complex than what most Helix users would want to deal with. So I think the idea of 2 reverbs, each with different mix levels is the only one that works.

The number of times this is asked in this forum (and elsewhere) is mind numbing.

Super quick demo of the pathing - all blocks just dropped on the paths, no editing Amp and desk.hlx

Am I correct in reading this to mean midi output, ie the Helix doesn't send pre-amp changes to the DT like the HD500 did? If my read is right I do believe you are correct. I think that if you want to use presents on the DT you have to program them independently using midi, and then select them from the Helix using L6 Link on the second channel. My use case of the DT is to only use the power amp in various configurations so cant provide a definitive answer.

Hi I doubt there's a 'best way' other than what suits you. The simplest way I can think of is: Use path 1 for a range of effects that run before your amp Use a split block as late as possible in that path (1b) to create an output tap to the 1/4 inch outputs - I would put an EQ of choice on this path Send the output of path 1a into path 2 Use path 2 to replicate your amp/cab sounds and any post microphone effects to get your desired direct to the board sound - I would have at least one amp, one cab, and EQ and a compressor Set the output of path 2 to XLR Only use the global EQ if you really have to - it will affect all outputs Some of the thinking/options here: You want your amp onstage and the send to the desk to sound similar so need an amp and cab going to the desk Tuning the EQ for the room on the XLR send is best left to the desk rather than your sense of how it needs to be tuned - hence not using global (at least for the XLRs) You will need to test your XLR sends at 'stage' volumes, through good monitors or PAs to ensure they are OK - headphones won't cut it If you have an effects send on the amp you can introduce loops and 4 chan method in Path 1 but it will get complex You could probably go with a 2 amp stereo set-up for the desk if that what you wanted - you will then have a stage sound that is different to the desk send, but IRL the desk doesn't 'hear' what you do I can quickly make a patch for you to play with if you like.

Did you not ask this and have it answered here?