theElevators

how does it go to the PA? more info plz? It's not the Stomp's fault that when they are combined by your PA, they distort.

Are they turned on or bypassed, would be the first question? Please don't be offended if you already checked :) Make sure you saved your preset with effects enabled.

There are other calibration parameters as well, like whether you tune to A440 or A438. You can also adjust specific pitches for individual strings, which is kinda cool, You can slightly downtune your g-string for example (what EVH did). If you want default parameters in the tuner or anywhere else, simply press on the knobs and they snap to the default settings. Be careful that you don't accidentally mis-callibrate your tuner, it's easy to mess things up, so always check what you have there

OINK! I use the band pass filter for a nasty-sounding synth sound.

I personally wish I could disable the preset/stomp button, since I'm always in snapshots and my stomps are always blank. The tap tempo/tuner button I do use. The tuner is actually great, if you don't use the OCD fine tuner that is enabled by default -- it's awful and jumpy. I now rely on the onboard coarse tuner and it gives me great results for tuning up during a gig.

LT is perfect. Maybe slightly less rugged than the Floor, and the EXP pedal is flimsier. But overall, it's a solid machine. I have recorded and played gigs with the LT no problem.

If you enable spillover, you reduce your presets to 1/2 what they used to be. In my experience, one preset allows you a TON of blocks and is more than enough to play a complete show, while using different snapshots, for your "average" gig. If you use the preset-per-song approach, then I guarantee you, you won't ever need more than one preset for each song you play, unless you do some insane routing/processing a la "in living colour". My band has a lot of special effects and I get by just fine by using presets with snapshots.

Here's what you need to do to get this to work as expected. The problem is that EXP pedal does not know which way is "on" and which way is "off". EXP pedal just flips the value of on/off. It just negates the on/off status of what it's currently saved as in the snapshot. It's a pain in the neck. I wish you could just say "above 5 is on, below 4 is off". Instead, it is more like "above 5, flip the on/off value, below 4 return to the saved state" But! here's what you need to do: IN EACH preset, turn off the wah-block, and save it as such. I think this is what is causing the issue for you. Some presets have it enabled, some have it disabled. IN EACH preset, put the EXP pedal at 0%, and re-save it. Set up your wah pedal like this "Per Preset": When you go into another preset, the wah will be off, but once you move the pedal up/down it will reflect the percentage you put it in and turn on the wah block. Does that work?

Sounds like a hardware failure, others have mentioned. But, it could be the power supply too. I once played an outdoor gig and the power was really really iffy. With every bass drum hit, the lights dimmed. My pedalboard that had worked flawlessly was going completely berserk. One of the digital pedals was constantly rebooting -- what a nightmare. See if it's that. Just as an experiment, plug in your Helix in a different house/building, etc. Good luck! PS: I just played an outdoor gig yesterday, and plugged in my Helix/Shure wireless into one of these. They are great, and can last you 6 hours easily. Highly recommended.

Answered my own question: in HX Edit -- right click on the wah block; disable "Snapshot Bypass" accomplishes that!

I have it set to "discard"... I only use exp 2, and never switch to exp 1 for any presets/snapshots. Here're the settings:

hmm it was "on". How can I do the same from HX Edit? Do you think having it "on" could have been interfering with something and causing the value to flip?

Hey all. I have several presets where I set up my wah pedal to engage when In the toe position (above 5%), and disengage when below 5%. It works fine most of the time, but every once in a while I noticed strange bugs. I was doing a sound check yesterday, and somehow the wah pedal got turned on in one snapshot, but off in the other ones, when below 5%. I just re-entered the the preset, and the issue went away. In my preset, the bypass assign for the wah block is only created for the exp pedal value. I have another block that I control with the exp pedal: envelope filter. One time during a rehearsal, the effect got flipped. It was on when below 5%, and off when above 5%. Of course I could never replicate it. From the developer point of view, I feel like Line 6 did not fully fix the bug with momentary turning blocks on/off, but rather made it less likely to occur. I feel the exp pedal simply flips the block's on/off state, rather than setting it to a specific value: It should be: toe -- on heel -- off Instead,Line 6 implemented this: toe - Invert block's on status heel - invert block's on status. Anybody else experience this? This used to be very bad about a year ago, made the auto-wah engagement unusable for me. Now it's gotten a lot better, but still trips up. Thanks!

a lot of default settings are crap..... subjectively

Click your expression pedal in. There is a toe switch that gets activated when you press your Expression pedal hard. This will switch it between EXP 1 and EXP 2. My guess is that you are moving your expression pedal, but you are in the wrong Expression pedal, that's why it doesn't change. You could also have cleared the volume assignment. Simply delete the volume pedal block and re-add it.

Controlling the mixing console remotely is a great idea, for example. But on here, some people claim that wired is the way to go, and wireless control is amateur karaoke-stuff. Why not have an added bonus of being able to use wireless optionally. On my phone, the bluetooth always cuts out if I'm outside in a crowded place, but my phone still has it. When I want to listen to music without any hickups, I connect my wired headphones. When I'm walking around on my way to work, bluetooth works just fine. I have an option of both. I have been playing pro gigs for a while now (fly in and play music for money in medium-sized clubs and outdoor festivals). And I obviously have done a decent number of sound checks. Our dedicated sound person always connects his tablet to the mixer at the venue; he has been doing it for 10 years now. I don't know the technical info of what specific consoles these may be. ..... Sure there may be some weird glitches sometimes, but the tablet gives him the flexibility to be next to the stage and set up monitor mixes, line volume, EQ, reverb. When the show starts, he is behind the physical console of course. So there you. Of course wired is more reliable. But if used correctly, wireless controlling of equipment brings just so much convenience to the table.

Here's a tip: When transitioning from one piece of equipment to another replace one thing at a time. For example, when I transitioned from my pedalboard + amp to Helix I...: Connected my helix right after the pedalboard, into the amp On a blank preset, I found a distortion that matched what I had on my pedalboard. I A/B'ed between the Helix and the pedalboard, to make sure they sounded as close together as possible. Since I use the volume knob to clean up my sound, I had to find a distortion block that would correctly clean up, just like my analog gear. This took me several days of trial and error, until I found a perfect replacement for my trusty .... "DS-1". DEEZ-1 was nowhere close. Repeated the same with the other pedals, using my ears. The delays, for example took some time to not bee to overbearing, yet audible. Eventually it was time to find an amp. I used an amp + cab with default microphone settings. I fiddled with the controls, to ensure the amp responded the same way as my analog gear did. It took me around 2 weeks to get a pretty decent tone, and now my identifiable "signature" tone and all that is inside my Helix.

When you connect an external pedal to your Helix Floor or LT, it becomes EXP 2. There is no way to wire the toe switch on the external pedal -- the external pedal will always be EXP 2, while the built-in pedal will always be EXP 1. On the Helix rack, it IS possible to wire the toe switch of the external pedals. If you have a missions pedal with the toe switch, that switch is useless on your Helix LT or Floor. What you can do is enable your wah-wah or any other block, when you move the EXP pedals past a certain percentage. For example, I have a song that has frequent wah-wah on/off, and I set it up that it turns on when I move my foot past 5%, and then turns off when less that 5% (heel position) after 500 ms. You can also use the EXP pedal to turn on any other effect, like envelope filter, which I also do in one song. One word of caution with external pedals: if you are planning to use the external EXP pedal instead of the built-in one, to prolong the life of the built-in one or something.... do NOT build your presets/snapshots with it connected. There is a weird bug/feature on the Helix. When you disconnect the external pedal the state of the EXP1 / EXP2 selection can be "stuck" when you switch between the snapshots and not respect the saved state of EXP1 / EXP2 inside snapshots. So basically you turn on the wah-wah, and then go to another snapshot where the wah-wah was turned off, but it still is on. This can lead to confusion on stage when you can't hear things well, and you may continue to play with your wah enabled with a harsh sound. I show the issue in my video, if you are interested:

Yup, I do that too.

You can alter any parameters in the blocks within the snapshots. For example, you can harmonize in a key of A in snapshot 1, and harmonize in key of C# in snapshot 2. Helix indicates that parameters can change in various snapshots if there are square brackets around the value, e.g.: [30] To indicate that a specific parameter in a block can change in snapshots do the following on the Helix: 1. Locate the Key parameter in the "twin harmony" block. 2. On the knob corresponding to Key, press and hold it. 3. You are now able to control the parameter "key". On the 2nd knob, scroll to how you want to control it, turn it until you see "Snapshots" under the controller. 4. Press "home", and you will see "[G]". I am inside one of the snapshots, where the harmonizer is running in the key of G. If I select another snapshot, it may change the key to D, or anything else you desire. Simply change the value inside your desired snapshot, and re-save the snapshot. As you toggle between snapshots, your harmonizer will harmonize in different keys. Voila. ... you can do this to any block, and control any parameter/parameters of the blocks the same way. You also alternatively use the "learn" functionality to control parameters with the EXP pedal, for example.

Just to be clear -- when you install an update on a Helix, it resets the global settings to the default settings, while leaving your presets intact. So what you need to do every time is to restore your Global Settings from the backup every time.

Oh boy, that sound person was quite something! Clueless... I wound up just plugging up my left ear and ditching the monitor all together, since he couldn't get the monitor mix to work at all. As in either the monitor doesn't work, or I have like snare drum + an obscene level of lead vocals in it or something like that. LOL. It went pretty good otherwise who knew what he was doing helped out with the sound mix. Somehow, we managed to harmonize in tune, all 3 of us. Phew. It was hot as bal.s though, summer in upstate New York 85 degrees, 30*c. I ran my Helix into a Headrush 108 to hear myself on stage, and plugged in the Helix and the microphone direct to the FOH.

My advice is to simply use your ears, as others have mentioned as well. If one preset is more bass-heavy than another, then on a particular PA, that one preset may appear to be significantly louder than the other, despite what the db meter says. For that reason, I recommend settling on only one amp, and using that one amp throughout your set. or maybe 2 amps: e.g.: Fender amp for cleans and Marshall for gain sounds. I don't recommend on using a different amp for each song. All amps behave very differently live, and you may encounter volume jumps that you hadn't encountered at home when using your monitors because they are equalized differently. Better play it safe. Plus it becomes such a pain to constantly have to adjust things. It's not worth it. It takes time to dial in your sounds. ... during rehearsal, at home and in a large rehearsal space, you should settle on your meat and potatoes sounds. Eventually you will come up with, for example your clean, distorted, lead clean, lead distorted, feedback sounds. Then you can dress up these sounds with extra effects as needed. But you will still have your basic sounds that are already dialed in for loudness, tone, distortion amount, etc. Once I figured out my main sounds, it was a matter of copy/pasting all of the blocks into my presets. If you use these tested sounds in your presets, then your presets will behave predictably. After that it's just minor adjustments that I personally am constantly making. For example, one of the solo sounds was too dry, so I increased the delay from 30% to 35%. So in summary, my personal recommendation is to simplify your setup, and not use every single bell and whistle in all your songs and have consistency. I just played a show for the first time with the Helix. It was 23 songs and the sound guy told me that my volume was very consistent. He said he only needed to adjust my volume a few times throughout the show, because of other instruments playing solos, etc.

I have been recording guitars for over a year by connecting the Helix to my Macbook pro with the USB, and recording into Garage Band and later Logic. No issues whatsoever. My presets are already balanced and gig-ready, so I get the same exact sound, without any chance of extra/not enough gain. Sometimes I record by taking left and right line-level 1/4 inch out, with volume at 3 o'clock to the interface with very similar results. In this song, I recorded guitars both ways, simply because there was an interface where I was recording guitars. Later on I recorded some more guitar parts at home using the USB cable. And here, I recorded guitars exclusively through the USB into Garage Band. I had no choice, because .... lockdowns, and we wanted to put out an album.

It seems to work fine. I do have an issue where my pedal starts only going up to 99%, then 98%. It recalibrates itself when you reboot. I set up my Helix LT so that I don't use the toe switch: either 1. my wah turns on if I put it past 5%, or 2. the wah is enabled in a specific snapshot. I also exclusively use EXP 2, not 1. The advantage is that if my pedal for some reason craps out, I can continue using my Helix LT with an external pedal without having to change anything.