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Everything posted by PierM

  1. There is no such software, since there is no available BT on those devices. The thing you can do is to buy a CME WIDI Master (BT Midi), plug it on the MIDI ports of the HD Pro, and then use a MIDI controller app on android, to do whatever you want with your HD Pro, like changing presets, banks, tweaking effects through CCs etc etc. Not affiliated in any way, just a link as you asked. https://www.cme-pro.com/widi-master/
  2. True, but then all he can send to the external amp, is just a dry signal with just early chain effects. The external loop of pedals he wanted to use, will only hit the main output, and also returning stereo wouldn work well, as he's forced to return before amp/cab to use the modeling, so he'd always output mono from that amp/cab block. He could get a stereo image at the end of the chain tho, using a stereo reverb or delay etc...Still not sure it would do what he's asking. At this point I believe would have much sense to just run external pedals in front, and use the send to just split modeling from real amp, but then he would still lose all the effects post modeling. That's why he virtually needs two separate fx loop. Just did a sketch of what he could get just using a stereo send block, and splitting to amp at the send jack, with a Y splitter;
  3. This is a cab/mic modeler, with just a very basic iR support. It has its own amp and cab algos. Only 10 slots for external iR... That's in the therritory of Iridium, which has 3x3 slots (9 total, subdivided into 3 main amps), but with much lower quality, as this unit IR specs are just 44.1Khz, 21ms, 1024 points, versus 94Khz, 500ms, 48000 points. Not trying to sell you an iridium, but only 10 iR slots, at this quality, it might result in a good looking doorstop after couple of months, especially if those amp/cab models sucks... Just food for thought...
  4. Yes, the variax battery does lose its capacity just sitting on a shelf. Im also against stocking multiple batteries for that reason. Recently I sold my Helix rack, which had the VDI interface providing also power. Now i only have the stomp, and main original battery is basically useless (does charge in 15 minutes, and last 10). I do have a third party amazon battery that Im using and works fine, but variax always been current hungry, so battery average duration is ridicolous. I wish I could mod the Variax as I did with my Stratocaster EOB, using a recharchable battery pack from fishman, but provided current isnt enough. I believe Im gonna build this adapter, so thank you for the reference thread. o/
  5. What kind of action are you expecting from touching the FS? ..."touch switching" doesnt exist in any HX device, it's just touch for selecting/assigning. If touch is used in the globals (Stomp Select) then a tap on a FS with an assigned block, will select the assigned block (SELECTED, NOT TURNED ON/OFF). Useful for edits on the fly. Tap and and hold will ask if you want to assign the selected block to such FS. To turn a block on and off, you need to assign a FS to the bypass function, and then PRESS the FS to turn Bypass ON/OFF like any other pedal in the world. Touch tap only isnt gonna turn anything on or off. Seems like you are mixing up "Select" and "Bypass" functions. Really, just read the damn manual.
  6. When it's about noise like that and ground loop is out of the equation, it's always EMIs and each environment it's a different story. USB ports, USB hubs, USB chargers, HDMI cables, RF on TVs, video/computer monitors, inverters, AirCons, etc... it's all stuff that can potentially produce EMIs. When this happens I always suggest to break down the environment in smaller bits, pull everything off from wall sockets, pull off USB cables, turning OFF ACs, monitors, PCs etc etc...and then if noise is gone from the pedalboard, start turning everything on again, just one device/cable at time, to find the offender. That's why it's typically an intermittent issue, since it's mostly caused by something else that can be turned off or unplugged, but that isn't part of the pedalboard, so you don't think about it.
  7. To be honest, mine has a tripleplay with bracket, and nickel covers mounted on pickups. Maybe, without all that stuff, and without the battery, stays in the high 9, early 10. Feels good tho. I'm used with my Les Pauls Custom, which are not really any lighter... (apart a '54 Custom that it's just 8 pounds)
  8. Mine is an early batch, from 2011, maybe those days they were heaviest? Anyway, not complaining. ;)
  9. Of course. I do call boat anchors any electric guitar above 9lbs. :) My JTV 59 is almost 11lbs. :)
  10. Since the Variax, without battery, charger and interface, would just be an expensive boat anchor, they will (should) be all there in the package. ;)
  11. HX Stomp has only one send, TRS. You can only assign a send block (either as stereo or mono) one time, as a block along the path, or as a parallel output, at the end of the chain. This means you cant do what you are asking with only the send/return. If you are not using the modeling, just use main output to amp, and send/return for the external pedals. If it's a single amp, the stereo return doesnt make much sense.
  12. If the PS board "exploded" (electrolytic capacitors) means you probably have more damage after it. Just send it to thomann for inspection and repair (if it worth it).
  13. BTW, on a serious note, this situation is being annoying for EU people. Both Variax batteries and Power Cable kit are impossible to find (ETAs are all BS), so for people without a VDI interface in the hardware and a dead battery - the variax is gonna be just an expensive guitar husk.
  14. Thoman has the BA12 battery "In stock within 1-2 weeks" since 2020... LOL!
  15. Of course it is! Have you ever seen an audio equipment where green flashing on a input meter means something bad? :) No led at all or most of the time, means your input it's too weak, and too close to the noise floor, so if you pump the volume on the PC to bring back some signal, you will end with lot of hiss/noise from the floor. Green means you are far enough from noise floor and far from clipping. Yellow means you are reaching the ceiling of the input stage and headroom is very narrow, red means you cross it, and the input stage is being overloaded. Powercabs are more like studio monitors than a guitar amplifier, so it's better to stay away from clipping both analog and digital sections. BTW, that "yellow led theory", never been about quality of the tone (even Sadities never really wanted to said that imho), but a matter of "perceived" volume and sound pressure available from the powercabs, when people needs more, for any reason. I would say, in a perfect scenario, with a fat and busy high gain preset (properly leveled at the amp stage and at the output), the yellow peaks would just be a natural consequence. But forcing all presets to peak in the yellow (which does represent a very narrow dB range close to the headroom ceiling), it's a plain nonsense because guitar can be either hugely dynamic signal (jazz, blues, finger picking etc...) or super normalized and compressed signal (high gain, compressors, metal rythm etc..). That wide spectrum of tones, it can't all be forced to blink the yellow. That's a laughable goal at best. 100% imho, as always.
  16. Seems you would really benefit of a HX Stomp companion to do all this stuff. I can't honestly think any other efficient solution in terms of remoting, parallel path, stereo, displaying and routing - in a single box. HX Effects also would be perfect, but with the stomp you could completely unload the amp/cab/iR from the main Helix DSP, and also keeping the beatiful display for editing and routing parallel stuff. Price aren't that different, and used market is flooded of HX Stomp in mint condition.
  17. I would ask myself "do I really need an iR loader?" I mean, if you are into a cover band, that needs a virtual infinite number of amp/cab solution, I would for sure go for a IR loader. But if you have your own tone, mostly using the same amp/cab setup, I would go for a amp/cab pedal modeler, like Iridium, UA ruby, dream 65, woodrow, ACS1 and similar stuff. (and yes, they are all stereo) I started as fanatic of cab iRs, but at some point I was going lost into a rabbit hole, wasting more time browsing sounds than playing. Iridium saved my time (and lot of DSP since it will unload both amp and cab/iR blocks). :) Then, imho stereo IRs arent that useful in a real scenario, I would just go for a mono iR and do stereo after the FX Loop that will host that IR Loader on the Helix. Torpedo CABM+ also a beast spec wise, but never tested myself, but seems very good from reviews. The little TC IR loader is gold for this, and it has a nice display to show you the loaded iR. Sounds just good as Helix IR block (I believe it also has same specs) and it's "cheap".
  18. Yeah, the PCs have 3 dedicated params to bump the level. Globally, in the main settings, you can edit INPUT 1 and INPUT 2 gain, in the range of -96.0 to +12.0. Then, you can edit the Level per preset, in the range of -60.0dB to +6.0dB They works very good for little bumps, but then it's digital hiss fest, as you raise the noise a lot.
  19. Yeah, that's a TRS into two unbalanced XLR. Works good for your setup.
  20. In all honestly, the yellow led thing is a bit of snake oil, even because yellow/red are very transient sensitive, like any headroom range in a non linear dB scale. It's just a meter measuring input before the amp stage. Also, the original version of the manual says the yellow/amber does indicates that level is close to the hardware limit (which is true). Then people started complaining about PCs being weak, and then they added the "yellow = most realistic non-linear natural breakup characteristics", to invite users to push their preset at the output. Amber just indicate you are close to the limit of the available headroom at the converters, but doesnt mean "best tone", or speaker breakup zone. You can get amber zone, even with PCabs at volume zero, so hundred miles away from breakup. Also, good luck staying in the yellow with clean tones without injecting noise for no reason, and risking transients blowing up the speakers at higher volumes..:) From green to yellow, is all good. For compressed signals, you can stay more on the yellow, for cleans and non-guitar signals better to stay on the green. Again, just do good preset leveling, and you are good, without staring at the powercab led (also on top of the cab, so bloody annoying to control) 100% imho.
  21. In general a global bump isn't a great move, unless your tone palette (in terms of transient dynamic and volume pressure) isn't moving to much between presets. BTW, isn't about powercabs. IME, it's all about sending "vivid" signals out of the Helix, no matter the monitors. For some reason people seems obsessed to keep load of headroom, producing extremely weak output for no valid reason. If you balance your presets to stay solid and closer to the headroom ceiling (without breaking it), you are good with any monitoring system. Of course it also depends on the tone; a super glassy clean tone has LOAD of transients, so it does need more headroom... but from overdrive to high gain, keeping load of headroom is just a waste (and a problem for speakers that needs proper pressure to sound as they should).
  22. Ok. So it's indeed a Y TRS splitter going into *2 TS to XLR (unbalanced cables). All good. :]
  23. Sorry hope this isnt throwing confusion into a easy question...:) All potentially correct, but a bit unclear if you are using Send or Output. HX Stomp output are L/R TRS balanced, but send jack is TRS unbalanced since it's just a single output port. If you are using the Send you can just go with a standard Y splitter cable (all 1/4" jacks) TRS to TS/TS, or a male TRS to two female TS, and then use two standard instrument cables to go into mixer. If you use the main ouput, then you are doing good with two TRS 1/4" to XLR cables.
  24. Should be definitely possible, and I remember Codamedia did something similar with success. Keep us posted. :)
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