phil_m

I do hear those notes... I actually thought those were you hitting harmonics upon first listen. I don’t really know what could be causing that.

I guess I don’t quite know what I’m supposed to be listening for in that clip, because I don’t really hear anything out of the ordinary... Perhaps a little ringing of some sort? I listened to it both with my iPhone speakers and my Airpod Pros just to be sure... Sorry I’m not able to be of more help.

Have you tried plugging the guitar into anything else or tried plugging something else into the speaker?

Is the reverb knob for the channel you’re plugged into turned up on the back of the speaker?

If your presets are in order of your setlist, you could look at changing the function of FS1 and FS5 to Preset Up and Down rather than Bank Up and Down. You can do that under Global Settings>Footswitches>Up/Dn Switches, or you can simply hold both of those footswitches down for a few seconds scroll to the Preset Up/Down.

I hadn’t specifically tested it, but if the output blocks affect the level, that’s probably more useful for most people, I imagine. Really, if you’re using the Stomp for an effects-only setup, there’s no reason to change the level in the Output Block, I think. You’d probably want to maintain unity gain through the device.

When you say bypassed preset, do you mean a preset with all the blocks bypassed or a preset in which you’ve activated the Bypass All function? Simply bypassing all the blocks in a preset will leave all the level settings in the Output Block and Splits at whatever you have them set at. If you use the Bypass All function, it should give you a straight bypass from the in to out.

Yes, setting the Mix at anything other than 100 will give you a parallel loop.

Your friend is wrong... 1MOhm is a typical input impedance for guitar pedals and even amps nowadays. Perhaps in vintage amps, it was more variable, but it’s certainly not unusual today. But use whatever sounds best to you. One clarification, though, the variable input impedance isn’t a simulated or modeled thing - changing the setting actually changes the input impedance of the Guitar In. If you hooked up a meter to it, you’d see it change.

Open up a support ticket and Line 6 will send you a replacement LT. As far as the pedal construction, the ones that failed did so because of a particular flaw in the housing. It does not affect all units. It only affected a small percentage of them, actually.

This kind of thing usually comes down to some sort of driver conflict. Are you using a wireless keyboard/mouse, or any other sort of USB accessory?

Well, sure... That system will work with whatever amp you connect it to. You’ll just have an external receiver to deal with compared to the built in receivers on the Spiders that have it.

The V20 doesn’t have the built-in wireless receiver. The 60, 120 and 240 watt versions do.

You can still install it. Instructions are here:

As far as the hex wrenches, the sizes for the different things on each model are listed here: As far as the little screws, I’d suggest you open up a support ticket. I imagine Line 6 will gladly send you what you need.

When you're controlling the Powercab from the Helix with the L6 Link connection, you don't change presets on the Powercab. You just control all the settings in the Powercab in the Helix preset and/or snapshot. So if you want to select a different IR in the Powercab in a Helix preset, you select the User IR tab, like you said, and then select which IR you want using the parameter labeled "User IR [1+2]" in HX Edit. The IR number don't correspond to the Powercab presets. They correspond to the position of the IR in the library in Powercab Edit.

Did you do a restore from backup after doing the update? The update changes the global settings, and this particular issue sounds like it's related to the setting in Global Settings>EXP Pedals>EXP# Position. If it's set to Per Preset or Per Snapshot, the Helix will ignore the position of the pedal until you touch it. So it may be that you accidentally saved those presets with the volume pedal at zero.

The E just means you changed the preset from its saved settings. Changing snapshots is a change from the saved state of the snapshot.

I think you might be misunderstanding what the manual currently says... You can currently use MIDI CCs to emulate the five stomp switches (FS1 - FS5). You can also use MIDI CCs to control any or all of the six blocks directly. These features are currently available. As far as when the block count is changed to 8, it will be the same - you’ll be able to control all 8 blocks directly if you want.

With this font, I thought you were inviting us all to a wedding... :-)

It will work, yes. The only issue might be physically connecting the POD Go’s wall wart to the outlet.

Well, like I said, it is possible it could have just come off... It could have been a prototype or something, but I would think that would be less likely, as I think the gold finish wasn’t available until later. You should be able to get the serial number off of it if you connect it to Monkey with the VDI interface, I think.

Where did you get it from? Looking at mine, the serial number is on what looks to be one of those water slide type adhesive stickers. So I suppose it is possible that it could come off or be removed on purpose.

Native is the only option. I would actually be surprised if an instance of Native running only an IR block would use that much more in the way of resources than a separate IR loader does.