spaceatl

while he is in there, you might consider doing a bias mod and put some test points and trims on the back panel. I did that to my SV112 as it is a real pain to take the amp apart to check adjust bias. The other issue is that the pcb bias pots are pretty cheap and have a very low g-shock rating which makes them drift under vibration. This is more of an issue in the combo than the head, but it was surprising to me after I did the mod...The amp sounded much better at loud volume than it did stock...I got my points and trim pots from Weber for about $12 or so...

You only need a twisted pair of wire. As far as which pins, you just need to measure a bit....plug a 1/4 cable in the jack and use a multimeter to find the pin for the tip and the sleeve...run it to the back jack....But make sure that you use a twisted pair...Probably don't need a shield inside the box but you could use one if you want...twisting the pair is much more important. you can test it with a multimeter when you are done...plug a 1/4 cord into each jack and multimeter tip to tip and sleeve to sleeve and make sure you don't have a short. A TRS jack is better structurally...you just tie the sleeve and ring together and you get a firmer jack for the plug. You don't have to use one but it's just helps the plug sit in the jack a little tighter.

$300-400 for the amp by itself. The mod makes the amp a lot better IMO and it is fairly rare to find one. My guess is $500 is probably fair as the mod was around $100 as I recall.

Wow, that is exactly how I have been running mine since 2008..Mesa 5881s and Mesa SPAX7s. If you think it sounds good now, try an EV12L in it. I use a Madison Minstrel that's pretty close to that vibe of less color from the cone. That's more personal taste thing. I can't stand V30s for myself. I did a whole bunch of mods on mine and it still one of my favorite tone amps...even with Spider models (SVPre mod)...It's old now and I only record with it now as the main DSP boards are no longer made. The power amp can likely work forever as it is a great design.

Did you update the firmware so both units are at the same version? I am assuming you did, but I gotta ask. Not sure, but I think you are technically moving patches between hardware revisions. My thought is that would be a very subtle thing. But if I read your post correctly, you have a PRO X and an HD500 (Not X). Never tried that. I think BillBee and hurganico suggestion of double checking the global settings is definitely something to look at. Maybe Global EQ is engaged on one and not the other...Output mode is what I would check first.

This thread brings back some memories. I have a MK1 and MK2 112s that I have used with my HD Bean. Those amps work great with the POD IMO. One of the best features is the analog presence control. Just about perfect for a little room EQ...I moved on to using DT amps with my HD Bean, but I still have the SVs. Love those amps. One of the main reasons that I use a guitar amp with the bean is that it gives a built-in spare...

I have my old Flextone III XL in the rehearsal studio and use my HD Bean with it all the time. Works great. dummy plug in the gtr input and use the FX return. I find stack mode tends to work a little better. However, my big problem with the Flextone III was the speakers. Seventy80s in an open back combo is a horrible combination IMHO. Those speakers are fart city as they are designed for closed back cabs. I have a pair of 300 watt Madison Minstrels in mine. You need something pretty rigid in the open back to avoid Flextone Flagelation. The best approach with these amps IMO is to close the back on them...Or at least go half back...They are way too open IMHO...

I have run the HD bean every way you can imagine...I have even run it 4CM (yes, it is doable but very tweaky)... You can run into the front of a clean channel without much problem. start with the tonestack flat. One some amps with passive tonestacks that means turning all the filters full (dimed). Anyhoo, best of luck.

This is just a novelty idea. You could add a midi sequence track and record your footswitch changes. Then play those back so your POD will track changes during the take. The cool thing about putting the PC commands into a sequence is that you can adjust them to get exactly right and you don't even need to use your feet. Anyway, that is something I have done for reamped tracks where I have mics all over the place. just a thought.

Only Sith Lords dwell in such absolutions. :D

I guess it's time for a Linux meme.

The trim pot is plastic, so a lot of things can work. I use a little plastic flathead with one hand and my other hand is behind my back. ;)

How ironic. Up until this past weekend, I have never played gig on a Rocktron Velocity 300. I have heard them several times and they have always sounded good. A good buddy of mine's banmd was playing the same gig and he uses a GT-10 into the Rocktron and runs direct to FOH. He is using mono patches and has the Rocktron brightened up a bit a it is getting a Studio Direct tone. It sounds pretty good and the house is nice when dialed in for FRFR. I recalled my mono FRFR setlist and plugged my HD Bean into the Rocktron and the DI and did not touch anything other than one of my clean tones needed about +3db of volume leveling (probably my bad lol!). I was super impressed with the Rocktron. It's not tube and that is apparent to me, but it does have a nice feel and the dynamics are good. This was not a very loud gig, but it had a lot of room left as I was hitting with with healthy line level as my Master was at exactly noon and I matched the input level he was feeding from the GT-10...No sound check and it went really smooth. cut through the mix, nice balance and response IMHO. I think a closed back 212 would be an excellent match for the Rocktron. I use 212 cabs. However, the drivers I use at rated @ 300 watts RMS each. You would be fine with 75 watt RMS rated speakers. Be careful not to clip. Peak rating on a 75 watt RMS rated speaker will be 150 watts +- which is close enough. But no, a Rock Tron will not blow a 212 cab...Only you can do that if you run any conventional power amp into clipping for too long. The DC voltage that is generated when a power amp clips eventually melts the voice coil. Rocktron reminds me of my Flextone IIIXL power amp.

FBV MK1 shortboards work also.... here is one on ebay with 4 hours left....Bid is at $45....anyhoo, I have both MK1 and MK2 shortboards...both work with the HD bean just fine. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Line-6-FBV-Shortboard-MKII-FBVSB-Guitar-Amp-Footswitch-/332125508568?hash=item4d543913d8:g:Ur0AAOSw2gxYnnAl

I don't think you can do that on express...You could do something like that with the shortboard using a dualtone patch....basically, you setup two amps, assign them to one button with one on and the other off and toggle your heart away...your FX would stay the same and it is pretty seamless...I don't think you can assign buttons on the express...

a form of Karma I suppose.... :lol:

just a thought...check to see if you interface has an echo option...This needs to be turned off. Most interfaces have it turned off by default. A few like the old Edirol that a lot of folks used years back had the echo on and it will make communication pretty much impossible.

It could be knob jitter on the drive knob....Try parking all the knobs at zero, recall you patches and see if things drift or not...

Yes, you actually can control two Spider 2, 3, 4, Valve, Flextone III XL or POD XT bean from an FBV....I did the mod. There was a thread here years ago with pictures and everything...basically, you have to split it and only connect the tx to tx...basically, one amp becomes a unsynchronized slave....You can do some crazy patch offset stuff and the FX buttons can do quite a lot as long as you spend some time on the patches. This is not really a practical setup as it was never designed to do this...It just serial communication over RJ45 with DC power...I will try to find that post as I put in a PDF a long time ago.

Still $100 or so, but you could use a Midi Solutions Relay perhaps...Same size as a direct box and midi powered. You can program it to switch on the PC or CC you want... http://www.midisolutions.com/prodrel.htm They also have an 8 channel model I think...

The spousal rationalization is among the most difficult endeavors to succeed. best of luck.

That Channel B stuff will only come into play when you have 2 DT amps linked on POD....Basically, when you have one DT linked to the POD, Channel A on the AMP represents the enabled model in the POD. The POD will remote control the Power Amp Mode switches, but the preamp modeling in the DT is completely bypassed. When you disable the AMP model in the POD, the DT will go to channel B. The model in the POD is disabled and signal from the END OF THE CHAIN is sent to the DT which now have the amp model in Channel B activated being fed from the link....I hear what you are saying because Channel B can actually be controlled remotely via midi and a lot of people have questioned this...Basically, you will have a hard time trying to do dual tones with one DT one a link...Wasn't really designed with that in mind...That is what two DTs are for...

The power amp test mode is a pretty good one...However, if the amp experiences an interruption in power it will not longer be in that mode when it comes back.

B on the DT is WYSIWYG tone on the amp when you toggle the amp channel (enable/disable)....you will get whatever FX you have on the POD, but there is no loopback for chain order...it's just a bypass with one DT attached.

Your amp should have a CD/MP3 input. You can run the Headphone out or the 1/4 line outs and adapt to stereo 1/8.