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If you want to get the presets back, you have to re-flash the firmware. There is no built-in reset like in previous PODs. Basically, backup what you have if you want to keep those patches, re-flash the firmware and you get and option to reset the patches.

Thanks, not sure why I thought it was a combo with the DT cab...It's a question that has come up before and I got it turned around. I have a DT25 head and cab...I changed the DT25 cab to a 16 ohm speaker and run in conjunction with an 8 ohm 212 (2x16ohm) ...As you said, totally safe on the 4 ohm tap... However, the 8 ohm DT cone will be louder than the Marshall cones...Basically, one 8 ohm speaker gets 50% of the power and each speaker in the Marshal sees 25%...That's roughly double the volume or about +3 db...anyway, just a thought. Balancing the cone volume is more of the point I was trying to get across...

Your internal speaker is 8 ohms...Your DT cab is also 8 ohms...together on TAP A, that is a 4 ohm load. if you add the 8 ohm 2x12 (assuming 2 16 ohm speakers in parallel)...you would end up at about 3.2 ohms. Tube amps are very different from solid-state amplifiers in terms of how impedance affects the amplifier. Tubes are self-limiting, so your tube will just wear out a bit faster if you ran a low mismatched load like that. The tone will also be quite dark. Really old tone trick. (EVH did this on the original rig with a POT in the speaker line). I think your best bet would be to make a little harness for you DT internal and DT cab to run them in series so the combined load goes to 16 ohms for you DT and DT cab...add your 8 ohm Marshall to that in parallel and the load is about 5.6 ohms...You can run that on the 8 ohm or the 4 ohm tap...The 8 ohm tap will sound darker and tubes wear slightly faster...The 4 ohm tap will be brighter with a slight increase in flyback voltage. This will also force a more equal volume on each of the 4 cones...If you run all 4 of them in parallel, the DT and DT cab will be about +3db louder then the Marshall. I have been running my DT-50 and DT25 head with 5.6 ohm loads since they came out. I changed the stock speakers to 16 ohm...My DT-50 is the 112 and I run it on top a 212 8 ohm cab...3 16 ohms speakers in parallel is 5.6 ohms...If you switched out your DT and DT cab speakers for 16 ohm speakers, then you can run it all together with a 4 ohm load.

I could not get the video to play. Probably blocked on the network I am on...Anyway, the PSU connector looks wrong to me... Is this an old 9v AC supply? I have seen more than several threads here over the years where a shop threw in an old X3 or XT supply...The problem is that those are AC...HD is 9v DC...While the pod will sometimes fire up that way because the HD has a little bit of protection in from this, inevitably this is not a healthy situation. I might not be correct on this, but just wanted to throw that out there...If that is a 9v AC PSU, stop using it and get the right one...9v DC @ 3 amps...

You could use just about anything. My primary recommendation would be, if you go solid-state power, to insure the amplifier has a rating of at least 300 watts @ 8 ohms. 300-400 watts of ss power @ 8 ohms matches the dynamics of a 100 watt Class AB tube amplifier pretty nicely.

The Soldano models are some of my favs of the bunch if I was forced to choose... However, the Park 75 model is another one that I really like...

preamp in the FX loop...good plan, as this should make experimenting easier in the long run IMO. Basically, you can create all the patches you like using amps in your POD...My suggestion would be to stick to the PRE versions of the AMP models...If you use the FULL models, then there is a lot more going on and it's all non-linear because it's a model of a tube power amp.... Most likely, I would try the JC120 first...The only reason is that it's a solid-state model and the only one in the bunch...I think that is in the standard pack...BTY, the SVT sounds great to me...The FULL model of that one with the 8x10 is a great one IMO... Anyhoo, I think I would be sure to put the FX Loop block right before the AMP Block...This will allow to put things in front of your preamp if you need it...One key point is that you might want to go to the Input Setup page and change the InputZ setting from Auto to 3M....This will give you the highest impedance input... What kind of preamp are you going to incorporate?

PRE versions don't have POWER AMP modeling...Some PRE models sound great and a great place to start for someone familiar with XT...I would suggest Studio Direct Mode and turn off the CAB and MIC in in your patches...

different channels....page 6 on the HD setup view, section 2-10 of the advanced manual....split will not work unless you use the same patches or someone remaps...

The approach of using PRE models and the same patches for direct or to a guitar amp/cab actually "can work" adequately IMO...It's a little bit of compromise in working within HD as it was designed. However, this approach is not for everyone. When you use the PRE models, the cab models to change to a lighter attenuation version (live cabs) that are tuned for the DT50....basically, you are looking for the cab model that helps you with your Marshall cab...You also want to see how the modes render on your amp/cabinet...I would say try COMBO PWR AMP....STACK PWR AMP can get a very scooped vibe with some cabinets....Anyway, once you figure out what cab seems to work and get a couple of tones going, switch to studio direct and pic the mic that gets the closest to how your rig sounds...It's a bit of a pain, but what you generally find is that one or two cab and mic combinations are going to work the best on your amp/cab....Anyway that is the approach I have used since XT and it works pretty well....The studio direct is a bit of a compromise, but that is ok for emergencies IMHO...99% of the crowd will not know.... Making separate patches will always be better, but this approach can work...Whether or not it is right for you really depends on your situation and if it can work for you...It has worked for me very very nicely.

Go to the Setup Pages and find the FS Mode....You can change it between ABCD (patch mode) and 1-8 (Stomp mode) where you can use all 8 buttons for FX block assignments...If you are looking for have direct access to 8 patches...You could do this by looping the midi out to the midi in and programing PC changes into the buttons...That would not be exactly straightforward as you lose the indicator leds with midi assignments...If you are looking for recallable scenes like in the M13, HD does not do that...That would be a Helix...

I ended going to a BOSS AW-3 for auto-wah stuff...I came up on a T-Wah for that stuff and that is probably why I am less of a fan of the TRON approach...I have used it and it can work...just does not sound like T-Wah....Sounds good and usable, just not my cup of tea for T-Wah type stuff...

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Glad to see that "Tuning" is still a polarizing subject. :)

I have had mine since 2010...no problems, but mine is not on the list...It would be prudent to get the tranny replaced (IMO) if yours is identified it as it is a known tranny defect for a bad lot of trannys...If you replace before it blows, it's generally not a big deal...If it blows, the amp will likely need a bit more work to get it back depending on how the tranny blows...

One small thing to check that can also cause failures over midi is if your midi interface has echo enabled. This was an issue on the old Edirol interfaces as they would install with echo on by default. That has to be turned off because it completely freaks out the flash process. This has been true for the midi flashing of all Line 6 gear. Just something to check for... When my amp bricked, it behaved like you described...But my problem was salvageable with a different interface. I am not saying the service guy is wrong...just something I forgot about that causes flash fails over midi...

I am not sure how you do it exactly in logic, but in most DAWs you would just set the output of the clean track to an ASIO output that maps to a 1/4 out on your Motu...connect that to the guitar input and that becomes your reamp output...I would suggest using the SPDIF to capture your clean track AND your reamp tracks as it would remove two conversions from your processing path...You just switch the track inputs in your DAW as you go. I have done this for years with my EMU 1820 with a lot of different gear...

I had an issue like that with my DT25 once about 5 or 6 years ago before they were released. My problem turned out to be my M-Audio midi UNO...It absolutely would not work correctly on my DT50 or my DT25....But it worked great on my old Flextone III XL. Anyway, I also have an EMU 1820 that is PCI based and it always works with anything...If I remember correctly, you want to start the amp in safe mode and then update it while in safe mode...I continued to get the error until I stopped using the UNO...I do think something is up with my UNO as it is really quite old...

I am sorry I did not explain this well for you. The DT25 cab is a little small for using with the DT50 112 aesthetically...You certainly could do that, but it is not the same width as the DT50112 combo...just looks a bit mismatched. The load impedance of a speaker (or multiple speakers combined) determines how much power it gets...If you combine the DT50 8 ohm 412 cab with the single 8 ohm speaker in the combo, the power that the 412 sees is 50% and the power the internal speaker sees is 50%....The 412 is loaded with 8 ohm speakers...In this situation each speaker in the 412 will see about 6 watts of power...The combo speaker will see 25 watts...That is basically about a +6 db difference that would make the combo speaker stick out IMO. My suggestion is to run the 412 with the DT50112. However, I would suggest reloading the DT50 combo with a 16 ohm speaker...If you run that in parallel with the 412 cab, the load with be about 5.3 ohms which fine on the 4 ohm or 8 ohm tap...More importantly, the division of power will be a little bit better where the internal will see about 10 watts and the cab will see the remaining 40...That's close to 10 watts per speaker and if the SPL rating of the speakers is about the same, the resulting volume level for each speaker will be fairly well balanced. Just an FYI, I have been running my DT50 112 at 5.3 ohms since I got it way back when. I reloaded my DT50 with a 16 ohm Jenson Jet Tornado(NEO) and run a tandem 212 cabinet that is loaded with 16 ohm speakers. I have been running 112 combos with 212 cabinets for a long time. I prefer it because 412s are just too big for me now...

maybe you could tell us a little about your amp ...Some have midi learning and you can capture the patch change event. If it's a relay type with 1/4 jacks, you can get a box to program midi to relay action.

Actually, you can do all of what you wrote. I have a DT50112 and DT25 head/cab. The DT50 comes with an 8 ohm Vintage 30. The DT50 412 is an 8 ohm cabinet. You can run the internal speaker and 412 on the 4 ohm tap...However, keep in mind that the DT50 internal speaker will get 50% of the power and might be too loud compared to the 412, but you can do it. You can also do the same thing with DT25...same issue that the internal speaker will not be equal volume with the cab...cone volume would be a lot closer if your internal speakers were 16 ohm...

After you get to the controllers menu...All you have to do is spin knob 2 to turn the EXP off...knob 1 goes through the parms....knob 3 and 4 are the Min and Max... This is really stuff you can pick up from the manuals as these sorts of questions tend to come from those that do not...All I can say is..."When all else fails, read the instructions" good luck.

you can turn the assignment off on the POD pretty easily. On the HD, put the cursor on the amp...HOLD the move button...you will then see the expression menu for the amp...The drive generally comes up first and you can turn off the EXP there...make sure you save the patch to commit the settings...I am not sure how to do it in Edit as I only use the app for backing up and restoring...I am sure it is there some place...

Try setting the output mode to stack power amp and run a 1/4 out to the FX return and set it to line level...stick to the PRE versions of the amp models and you should be able to get some good patches going....later, you could try doing 4CM...it's a little more advanced, which is why I recomend using the FX return (power amp in) and just bypass the Bugera preamps....take that as a second step after you get under the 500....enjoy!

I use the Vintage Pre quite often. It has a little breakup to it and the LPF and HPF can make a nice shaped boost...The works nice on cleaner patches where it can be effective before the amp model...For clean boost, I most often use the mid focus EQ after the amp...It's a bandpass filter that can be run flat or with mid shape for leads...just depends...