spaceatl

Try your headphone output as a line input...Or just plug in some cans...If you have signal on the cans and nothing on the 1/4 outs, send it back...

Not sure if this approach would works for everyone or not, but I like it...It's really about the same thing I did way back when with actual gear. With Single Amp tones, I split the FX chain after the amp and put my post FX on the top chain and leave the bottom chain clear...I have a raw tone on path B and path A is extremely wet post FX...I blend raw/FX balance with the mixer. The core amp tone is preserved better and less trouble with FX that have little volume behaviors since they are isolated on the FX chain. Anyhoo, just a thought...

I tend to agree with you. 4CM is a nice setup...But can be cumbersome...Tweaky and lots of cables...If you are wanting to get the POD out of the rig, I think you picked a good way to evolve your rig.

Did you update the firmware on the amp? Might be a firmware thing...

The 1/4 outs are unbalanced...

This flowchart really explains it better than I ever could...

Really hard to guess the problem from the description without seeing or hearing anything. Eliminate whatever you are playing through...You did not say, so I am not sure what to tell you on that. Do you get the same problem on Headphones only? The XLR is mic level, so depending on what you plugged that into, it could get noisy...Even the 1/4 outs can if the level isn't matched to whatever your playing through If you could post a little video, maybe the problem would become a bit more apparent? Or maybe let us know what your whole rig is and how you have it wired up...Your guitar would help also...more information helps in these situations as we don't have the mind reading feature turned on yet... :)

Time for another meme....star wars is on the way...

Active Guitar? If so, check your battery... Cable? Different Guitar? Every patch has a looper...That's normal if the looper is what you are talking about.

:lol: Yea, but fortunately the analog tube amps and pedal back then don't reset...I actually learned about this from keyboard players back in the 80s. They have been fighting this battle for a long time...It's kinda new for guitarists since the whole rig has basically gone digital now for a lot of folks.

If you run LR down 3 conductor wire, you will get reduced bandwidth at some point...Maybe you like the reduced bandwidth for tone? I don't know...Use what you like...good luck.

A headphone output is the same as a 1/4 unbalanced line. In fact, a headphone amp is no different than a line driver...So you can use it to drive line level channels no problem. On some devices, the headphone amps are actually better than the op amps dedicated to line outs...Use what sounds better to you... The main difference is that the XLR outputs are MIC level...Very low signal that requires a mic preamp in the desk to gain stage correctly... I would only suggest using a direct box for the conversion to XLR from 1/4 unbalanced lines or headphone outs over simple wire adapters that tie pin 1 & 3 together...There is nothing wrong with doing that, but a direct box is going to have better luck driving down a snake...

serializing is pretty difficult to do. I have an old post on here about 4CM the HD Desktop. Basically, the same principal of serializing the Left Chain (PRE) and the Right (Chain POST) with your amp PRE in the middle. It's a really touchy setup...If the Master was a concentric pot where the L and R could be leveled differently, if would be a lot easier. Not really worth it IMO...just hit the power amp in and call it a day...

Just an added note. I have performed many shows with other bands that were also using Line 6 and other digital gear. There is a venue near me that is particularly bad in terms of brown outs pulsing with the kick drum. When they crank the ACLs in the lighting rig, digital stuff generally resets. I have loaned my AVR to countless guitarists to help them get through a show.

That looks like a broken jack IMO...I think replacing it would be a good idea.

Get yourself a AVR and never worry about that again. Here is what I use. My better price than the Furman. https://www.tripplite.com/1200w-120v-power-conditioner-automatic-voltage-regulation-avr-ac-surge-protection-4-outlets~LC1200/ I would suggest staying away from a UPS. Those are most often switching supplies and will generally add noise to the audio. A transformer based UPS would be fine...Just stay away from a switcher.

No such thing as a stupid question. What is stupid is not to ask. In terms of power cables, the exact same approach applies as it does to speaker cables...The bigger the gauge of the wire, the better. In theory, since the power input stipulates 300 watts....The ideal cable would be one rated at 25 AMPS...If you are running the amp at full using a power soak or something, you might want to using 10 or 12 AWG....You should be fine with what you have IMO. Get yourself a 15A one if you can find it....You can go to Home Depot and make one if you want a big one....You could make an 8AWG and never worry about it...

That is the primary reason I use a Desktop and a shortboard...I have been asking for knob disable since way before HD came along...jitter and cables has always been an issue with these things. The other is the random drunk guy that inevitably falls into the stage in those small venues... True story: St Patrick's day circa 2006...300 lbs jolly fellow falls backwards onto a 1 foot stage and lands his upper back square on my shortboard MK1...He had two rows dents all in hit leather jacket as those buttons are taller and much sturdier than the MK2 buttons...He put my Flextone IIIXL into Manual Mode and had a genuine look of pain on his face despite his just above moderate intoxication. He was basically knocked sober by it...It was an accident as the floor was slick and the house was rockin. He apologized and even offered to pay to repair the shortboard...Shortboard was and is still fine...still have it and still use it every now and then when I get tired of the crappy orange screen on the MK2...MK1 green screen rules!

If you are tinkering with the JCM800 and most of the other high gainers, try turning down the Master DEP control to about 10%...Additionally, turn the RES LVL in the cab DEPs to 0%...I don't know about you, but I never ran a real JCM 800 with the Master dimed...And that is the primary reason that model default sounds like a$$ IMO...RES LVL to 0% works pretty nicely to get out the fizz...The Master DEP and RES LVL are probably the most key DEPs to getting a higher gain tone focused IMO.

A gate after the amp model is usually a band-aide for downstream noise in the rig itself, signal level issue or wiring. You did not mention what you are playing through. Gate is most effective first in the chain so the threshold will track consistently, open as fast and precisely as possible using a clean signal....Gates do not track well on distorted signal... The gates in HD don't have virtual side-chaining...Putting a gate after the amp is a very old trick for getting rid of noise...But it only works well when side-chained from a gate or comp that is first in the chain... Do you have the input pad engaged? Have you changed the input setup of input 2 to VAX or MIC do disable it? If not, you are likely saturating the signal chain in the POD.... I would suggest you bring up an empty patch...Add the Hard Gate only...engage the Input Pad and insure that you are using only one input on the setup....Once you learn how the gate tracks to your raw guitar, that is as good as it will get....

The mic is an input like the guitar is...If you select the mic, then you will need to Add a preamp to an FX Block...The Vintage Pre is good for this....Add a few Eqs, Delay or whatever else you want. Setup a vocal patch much the same way you would a guitar patch. Just set the Amp Model to NONE. Not sure what HD you have...Desktop and Footboards do not have phantom power...

I like Joel's suggestions. Talk to a service center and see if you can get a deal on a cleaning. Probably around 2 hours of labor I would guess...$100 would be a great deal IMO...You might find a new one for around $400...You can find great condition used ones for around $250 or so... ...I am not exactly sure how you are using it, but I guess you use a mic with the trumpet and play some guitar sometimes? Anyway, you might know that the tuner only works with the GTR input...If you use the AUX or MIC, tuner does not work...maybe there is sand in the XLR? Might be worth trying to clean it...hard to say

The peculiar thing is that the HD Pods do NOT have a factory reset function like the XT and X3 had. In order to reset patches to factory, the firmware has to be flashed. The only other way would be to copy patches over...I have seen folks overwrite patches that they thought were being moved between two set lists using the hardware interface...I have also seen folks claim that patches were removed only to discover that HD has multiple set lists and they had just changed the set list without knowing...just some thoughts.

I am am assuming you are using a guitar amp for a monitor... The does not work in the same way that it did with the X3. Both XLRs and 1/4 outs render the selected output mode the same. The difference is that the XLR level is mic level. If you like how your amp sounds using Combo PWR AMP, the XLR will sound a bit nasty in the desk. You can tweak dual amp patches and get around this, but it ends up using a lot of DSP and it's a bit more complicated. A very easy option that works pretty nicely is a RED BOX DI. The original was made by Hughes & Kettner. Behringer copied it and it is a VERY good copy and costs a bit less than the HK. You can put this on the speaker line of your amp and take a house feed from there...Useful for tube amps... Another easy option is to get yourself a FRFR monitor and set the HD to studio direct...best of luck.

You need a good quality AES/EBU XLR cable. You can also use a good quality DMX XLR cable because the termination impedance is nearly the same. An excellent quality mic cable will also work, but you will want to keep that length down to about 15'-20'. Works just fine. If you want 25 foot or longer, go AES/EBU or DMX and you will be fine. As with anything audio cable wise, the shortest practical length that you require give the best performance.