spaceatl

a couple of things you can check/try. remove all other USB devices you have minus the POD (printers, cameras etc...) and mouse/keyboard...could be that you need updated driver for another device or could have an incompatibility... if this is a desktop and your are using front ports, try using rear ports (front ports are on hubs usually) If you have a USB hub, remove it. turn off power management on USB in device manager make sure you have current chipset drivers for your computer make sure you have current BIOS for your computer make sure you video driver is current Is your computer fairly new?

why not just add a midi track to your projects and record the changes on the POD?

my guess is an ear safety feature...It would stink to load up a hot one and blow your ears out.

I would tend to think that you would want to use the Combo pwr amp or Stack pwr amp...Since you are not using any amp models, the output mode does not matter as it applies to the active cab and mic models on the amp model....Since you aren't using an amp model, it does not really matter. However, one nice trick is using a front mode for the extra EQ filter if you leave them flat, then the modes all sound the same when the filters are flat and there isn't an amp model enabled on the chain...that filter might be handy for some final polish if you need it...keep it mind that the filter is global....you also have a global EQ you can polish with if you need it....simple approach is use one of the pwr amp modes or studio direct as the front modes do take a smidge of DSP.

The best usage I have found for the looper is putting in pre so I can adjust patches without having to play....other than that, it's a fun little practice tool IMO...

use the aux input or set the guitar input impedance to 3M and use that one...make sure you set the second input to Variax or Mic so you don't get the level increase....top input would be guitar or aux depending on which you want to use...the impedance changes the tone, so hogher is better, but it can be used to adjust for something being overly bright....usually better when the guitar hits it....think strat or tele.... use a 1/4 main out back to the fx loop return...use line level...input settings is on page 3 or 4 in the system menu...

I use that approach on some of my patches....but I set my toe down to my normal 3-4 repeats feedback and toes up is in the high 90% range depending on the delays involved and the patch focus. I have the a FS set to toggle the delays off/on....the trails work really nice with that approach....if you reversed it, you can program the toeswitch to turn the delay on and off...but you would need to reverse what you are doing....I have often thought that a heel switch would be really convenient for this.

Everything would be better if we played underwater....The speed of sound doubles under water to over 1400 miles per sec....In solids it more than doubles again (over 5000 miles per sec in solid Iron)...density is everything. One thing I noticed when I was touring as a FOH engineer is that outdoor shows always have the best sound when it's a drizzly day with 100% humidity near sea level...It was really obvious to me when flying between gigs with the same rig. Really amazing how much difference it makes.

Sure, you can do that. If I remember right, when you setup a FS on the 500 to turn the amp block on and off, the DT amp will toggle between Channel A(amp block ON) and Channel B (amp block OFF). If you want to duplicate your setup where you are going into the front of the DT, you will need to move the amp block to the end of the chain. The System Link is one way. IF you want set which effects are before and after the amp model, you will need to use the amp models in the POD....Anything you use on channel B over system link puts the amp model in the DT last in the chain. You could setup a dual tone patch where you have each amp in the POD set like you were using on the DT...You then setup a FS button to toggle between the amp models in the POD and the DT stays on channel A all the time using the POD settings. You can do exactly what you are wanting in the POD itself...might make life a little easier than using Channel B

Since no one mentioned it, I feel obligated to say "Fletcher/Munson"...carry on... ;)

almost any standard analog latching fs will work (TRS with two switches). I use an old Fender footswitch with my DT 25 for channel only as I don't use the reverb....you could use a BOSS FS-6 and make life easy....They are like $25 or so....other than that you can use two latching SPST footswitches, TRS female jack, a footswitch box and a TSR cable and make a decent one for the same money in parts with no leds ...Tip and ring are control, sleeve is ground....I think channel it tip...

The reason there isn't a wireless receiver in the Helix in a very simple one IMO. Create a modeler that competes on the AXE/Kemper level of dynamic range and tone quality at a price point that is lower, but in that same boutique range. Line 6 would have had to compromise some place else to keep it at the same price point if a wireless receiver had been the priority. IOW, the Helix would have been something more like an HD with a wireless if that had been the priority. Maybe Helix would not have -123 db of dynamic range with a digital wireless receiver making it even harder to keep the digital and analog stuff properly isolated...Not that it would be impossible, but at Helix level of quality and miniaturized for the form factor it could add nearly $1000 to the cost because there would be extra engineering cost to hit that audio quality target. Not to mention that the power supply current would need to be several amps larger.

I expect "Fletcher/Munson" to be mentioned anytime now.... ;)

are you tuning long sustain? Gotta tune the attack bro...If you tune a string with minimal attack on a long sustained note, you will always be sharp when you back to hitting the string like you do for a song...Tune like you play and find the compromise...If you don't know what I am talking about, then it does not matter anyway.

lol! Wall Of Sound. An iconic sound system...

With the difference in headroom, most definitely on clean Fender flavor and low gain Marshall tones. The guitar doesn't jump out of the cabinet can grab you around the neck like a real Twin does...DT-50 gets a whole lot closer to this but 2xEL34 is never going to match the clean dynamics of a 4x6L6 amp. Those sorts of spank tones generally need 50-100 watts of tube power to render something convincing...Tonally, both amps are fantastic...DT50 has a little extra mojo with the tube buffer driving the inverter tube. DT25 has a solid-state buffer to drive the inverter tube...I think it's FET...

Might be worth adding things up...If you traded on a Helix, you get built-in control relays and an HD on steroids....just a thought.

What about Firehawk and Amplifi?...Both are newer than HD and at the $300-$500 price point.

AVR is one of the best gear investments I have ever made. It's the reason I have electronic gear that is nearing 40 years old that still works. Interesting how gear benefits from stable input voltage/current....I better stop before I start preaching again... :lol:

I have a DT50 112 and a DT25 head/cab....DT50 is a better sounding amp. But that has more to do with my preference for EL34 power amps over EL84s and the increased headroom. DT25 is barely enough power for louder situations (clean tone gets spongy). Both are great sounding amps and remarkably similar. Build quality is the same IMO. great.

You should be using this one: (The one you are using could damage the POD, but more likely damages the PSU first) https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PODHDPwr

You know about the Channel Volume volume pedal trick? saves a slot.

Hopefully you are NOT using an older Line 6 supply that is volts AC.... HD PODs use a 9 VDC supply. The old XT/X3 supplies should not be used...never noticed mine getting hot or anything.

Here is that thread about doing 4CM with the HD Desktop....Basically, the same thing...just use the Aux Input instead of the Mic input with the trim all the way down. I think there's a patch on the thread someplace... http://line6.com/support/topic/2177-4-cm-the-hd-pod-bean-oh-yes-this-works/

You can certainly do it....I created a loop and have 4CMd the HD Desktop to an amplifier....works fine...use one loop like normal...you just need a jumper cable to jump from the left out to the aux in....The right out would become your output....you have to get your input confg and chains exactly right to serialize the Left and Right output...It's doable, not the most practical setup since the master is not a concentric pot. The mixer helps but still a very tweaky deal...I have a thread on this some place, but I can't find it...