spaceatl

That many beans will definitely result in GAS. :D

I am not sure if this is your problem or not. I had an HD400 for a little while and I was able to get it into a state of the sound not working if I powered off the HD400 while USB was connected to the running computer. Powering up the HD400, connecting the USB to the PC and then disconnecting USB would clear the condition. There is something a little weird about the USB controller in the HD400 in that on Windows 7 if you connect the USB to it with the HD400 power disconnected, it is partially detected by Windows (you hear the ding, but the driver will not load). Again, not sure if this is the same thing you are seeing as I tend to think reflashing would reset that condition. I also had a very early run of the HD400 and yours may not have the issue mine had.

DT-25 and DT-50 are great amps. However, if you play with a drummer on an acoustic kit the DT-25 struggles with clean headroom IMO. It's adequate, but the clean tones get squishy when the amp is pushed....DT-50 is a bit better in that regard.

I use sealed 212 cabs and Combo Power amp works a little better for me than Stack does...Stack sounds too scooped on my cabs.

It will work. I have 4CM my old Flextone III XL which it is just a lightweight Vetta. IMO, 4CM is a little more trouble than it's worth. I still use my Flextone III XL, but I just have it parked in the studio for rehearsals...I plug my POD into the FX return of the Flexy and stick a dummy plug in the Flexy guitar input to bypass the power amp mute.

Nice post...I have been preaching that one for decades now. I tend to recommend a transformer based AVR that gives the isolation, voltage regulation and some filtering. Great protection for touring folks. I have been using AVRs on my gear since the 80s and I still have most of it. A Furman AVR is pretty darn expensive. I found this one 5 or 6 years ago and it has worked great. And just like you stated, only about $80 or so... https://www.tripplite.com/1200w-120v-power-conditioner-automatic-voltage-regulation-avr-ac-surge-protection-4-outlets~LC1200/

You just stipulated a midi sequence...welcome to midi!

I have an EMU 1820 that I have had for over 10 years...Same primary card as the 1212 with the audio dock...Great card and IO IMHO. Why not just run SPDIF from your 500 to your 1212? Seems like that would be a little easier?

You are welcome Dave, I took a look at your JBL and that is a line level only input....The XLR is a matter convenience. It is curious to me that they did not choose to use the XLR/TRS combo jack as that would have saved a little space... The give away is the presence of the -10/+4 line level switch....basically, your speakers will take consumer or pro Line Level signals....mic level is much lower and a different impedance as well...way down around -60 dBV which is why a preamp is needed...

Wow, that is an old one....thanks for bringing that one back...

XLR outputs are mic level....the mic model is generally the last in the chain the intention is for it to hit a console at the same level as a real microphone as the general case. This means that you may need a mic preamp to get the level up to the line level the XLR input on your speaker is expecting...Some monitors have a mic pre...Seems like you found the correct setup (TS cable from 500 1/4 out to TRS in on your speaker). TRS inputs can accept balanced or unbalanced signals...Unless you cables are 50' or longer, there is no advantage to running balanced...Actually, a balanced signal is always a converted signal and will have less bandwidth than the source signal...source signal is always unbalanced. Seems like you found what works on your own.

There was no way for me to get into the chassis in my measure measurements...I think I posted a pic of empty socket with the probe in it... I generally keep the load connected anyway just because I am going to need it connected later when the tubes are back in and I don't like to forget that...just a good habit methinks. BTW, technically it is "possible" to safely power up a tube amp without a load as long as there is zero signal applied as there would be little flyback voltage to burn up the output tranny...But not a good idea. However, with no power tubes, there is actually nothing going through the output tranny because the circuit is open...so the presence of the load makes no difference with the power tubes removed...

Yes, and you can do it 100% hands free also...But if you do not already know this, I would suggest you get some assistance in taking the measurement. The risk is simply too high and there are much better safety resources than some dude on some forum.

My guess is you are probably just fine since you are using matched quartets and have been for a little while... You could use a couple of bias probes (Weber) to check it to remove things like the test point resistors being +-5% tolerance...or to just give yourself some piece of mind as it is a superior way to check bias vs the test points. I do stand by my first post in this thread...Measure the plate voltage and adjust to 70% dissipation...These are hybirds and running them at 80% just makes them run hotter...and that isn't good for the DSP board. At least, I feel that way about the DT-25 head...

I have an HD Desktop, FBV MK1 and MK2...I have had it since it came out and nothing changes about how either FBV works with the firmware updates I did. The only setting that makes them go batty is the FBV setting for using the mini fbv in Setting page...other than that, they do need to be calibrated...older FBV MK1 can be tricky. My arm has stretched a bit over the years and I had to re-build the pedal linkage to get it back right...

Was that you wearing the dunce hat all day for breaking the build?

In terms of item 2. the uncontrollable squeal from your middle pickup...Most likely, that pickup is not potted, the potting has deteriorated. When a pickup goes micro-phonic, even loose wiring in the guitar can resonate and just make things completely crazy. I have a Baker where the stock pickup rings resonated around 300 Hz....That was when the guitar was stock...The rings are gone and the pups are direct mounted to the body. Sometimes the baseplate of the pickup can resonate. One trick is to put some soft foam rubber under the pickups to dampen the baseplate a bit...Good luck running that down....my guess is the guitar based on what you said, but sometimes a bad tube can squeal in a similar way.

perhaps this is what you are asking about? http://www.amazon.com/Cables-Unlimited-Wireless-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B0036VNZHA

My opinion is that since you are using a conventional guitar cab that your best bet to get what you are after without having to run a dual amp setup would be to get an H&K redbox DI (The Behringer copy is actually decent). Basically, it is not possible to get cab and mic on one side a amp only on the other with a single amp model. However, if you use something like the redbox, then you basically setup your patches without a cab or mic and let the red box do the work of feeding the house. Anyway, that's an option. To get a true dual mono, you likely would need to make sure that you have a mono FX block placed in the last position of the chain.

Let me guess...Are you an FRFR kind of guy? IEMs?

I have long wanted a Sound Sculpture Switchblade for programmable analog routing...Notes sounds like a great idea to me.

2 forums ago, I think I wrote a book on the Flexy....loL! Yes, the rumor always was that Eminence speaker was the Modeling Speaker they made up until about 10 years ago...Basically, I think Line 6 might have designed it and it was available for a little while after...I had a pair of them that were in my AX2....Those kill the Seventy80s IMO... That sounds like a good idea to me with Governors....Are those the Red Coats? I think the rating is about the same...not sure...I have used the Seventy80s in 412s and 212s and they sound quite good in closed cabs...But Celestion really isn't my cup of tea...kind of guesswork speaker design IMHO...But they have made some interesting colors...I remember some folks liking those governors...If you want to use the cab models, then neutral is generally the direction you want to try and go...The general approach there is the higher the rating, the more transparent it will be because the breakup threshold will move up...This also holds true for open back cabinets. The reason is that there is nothing more than 1 atmosphere of pressure on the back of the cone which lowers the breakup threshold of the speaker...But distributing the power over more cones also lessens breakup and increases perceived volume...This can all get a little complicated to write down... Generally, with cab models, the flatter the response of the speaker, the better the models wil translate...An EV12L is a wonderful modeling speaker, but they are very expensive and very heavy...A JBL works pretty fantastic too...However, this is really getting anal about this stuff... If I were to go Eminence, I would go here I think: http://www.eminence.com/speakers/speaker-detail/?model=Kappalite_3012HO 100 db SPL and 400 watt rating...pretty darn clean...maybe too clean for some folks... I have several 200 watt Eminence Yamaha OEM PA drivers that I have used in the Flexy and they work pretty darn good...But 400 watt driver seem to always work better...I never have tried the Delta Lites, but those are around 250 watts I think and the flux density of NEo is really strong which generally means not much breakup...

Gosh, it is great to read about folks using these Flextones... This is just my opinion, but the stock Celestion Seventy80 (That's what it is) was a bad speaker choice for the Flextone III XL that is nearly completely open back. Those speakers are not rigid enough for that and are designed for closed back cabs...Back in the day, a bunch of us when through a lot of speakers, mods and contacting Celestion directly to improve on the stock Flexy. I changed the speakers to 300 watt Madson Mintrels (Really clean with minimal breakup) that have a sort of EV12L vibe...I tried a lot of speakers in that amp and honestly, the only way it will really render a 412 is if you but a closed back cab under it and physically used 412s...When the Flexy was my main rig, I always ran a 212 closed Madison cab under it...Ran right next to Boogies and Mashalls many times and was asked what kind of tubes it used...lol! WARNING....Never run this amp with a load lower than 8 ohms...I modified mine with an NL4 speakon and ran my 212 cab stereo series so it was 16 ohms a side...But the more efficient speakers and added cab more than made up for the power reduction. Basically, the lowend goes to shiot with the Seventy80s in louder situations...No Cab is actually the way most of the Flexy guys ran the stock amps back in the day. Push the amp selector and put it on Line 6 Clean as I recall...or thru the Edit app... One of the tricks to getting the power amp to really sound good is to use fairly low input level...Stick Master Volume at about 2-3 o'clock and using the channel volume or the POD output to set the volume level. The cleans are what benefit where you can get some Fender Twin spank dynamics where it will jump out and grab you a little...

When I need volume, I assign the channel volume parameter to the pedal and set the max to whatever the channel volume is and leave the min at 0%. This is a DSP saving approach that leaves an FX slot open for something else. put the cursor on the amp, double click enter...spin the parm knob (1) until it's on the channel volume. change the controller (knob 2) to EXP 2 and set the min and max level accordingly...click View to get out and then save the patch.

neat idea Glebber....I had a Special 130 way way back in the day. Actually cut it down into a head at one point...