spaceatl

DT50 is the best tone amp Line 6 has ever made. DT25 is a close second....Next, would be the the first version Spider Valve....However, if you have a modified SV with an SVPre that will give a DT a run for its money on Class AB type tones....Spider Valve MK2 is ok....kinda mediocre IMHO....Flextone III XL is a good utility amp...Still have all 5 of these and that that is how I rank them.

Then there is something that you are doing that you have left out or I have just misunderstood...Are you sure you don't have the Send/Receive mixed up? Or perhaps you have the tone(s) mis-selected before you send them? Not so sure what is happening for you...I suppose I could ask if your firmware, drivers and Edit are current?

This might be a little different than the manual and what other folks do...But basically, if I am editing a tone with Edit and I want to commit that tone to the hardware, I do the Save on the Hardware and receive the preset from the hardware....I rarely tweak tones using Edit as I primarily use it as a backup and patch organizing utility.... If you get the send receive goofed up, something it is hard to know the state of things....Also, Edit may not stay in synch 100% of the time as there can be some weirdness there....I tend stay away from PC tone tweaking...But keep in mind that I use an HD bean and my form factor is different than yours...I don't like bending over to tweak and am not a fan of using a PC to tweak my tones...

If it ain't broke, don't fix it....I certainly would suggest you keep your rig...An HD500 on your rig would sound pretty darn nice and cabling would be a cinch to the Loop return....and you could wire in any of your pedals you like too...

You need a midi interface on your PC...midisport UNO is a popular inexpensive USB->midi interface...It is not possible to update the amp thru the POD.

Great stuff in your thread. Some nice, concise FM tips for folks looking to moving between home and the stage.

routing the audio in the computer is the challenge.... Your speakers have RCA inputs on them....Why not get yourself a pair of 1/4 to RCA cables and plug your directly into the speakers?

Yes, exactly....after everything....No, the global EQ is NOT in the editor....It's the last page of the setup menu on the HD500...However, I think that you are using a DT amp based on the tags? If you are, this will not work as the Global EQ only affects the analog outs....You might have to do your FX block idea...

This might be FX/Settings defaults....I still use my old Flexy and as I remember there is a setting in the Flextone that when you select an Amp model, it will load the default FX and such for that model...The fx Loop also has a pre and post setting that can only be gotten at thru Edit...If I remember correctly, this setting can be disabled in the Edit application....It has been years since I edited my Flex with the PC app, but I think that is where you want to start....The deep edit really helps get the most out of the amp

last in the chain is where I would put a loudness correction Q....FYI, with the firmware 2.62 update there is a pretty decent Global EQ in the Setup menu that could be used for this very thing and you would not have to visit each patch to make your loudness correction.

The WXT and the WGC are the same tube with different bases...WGC has a short base and the WXT has a tall base...If you have spring retainers on the sockets, WXTs work better as the clips snug on the plastic base where they touch the glass on a WGC....Nothing is operationally different between those two tubes...

If your guitar has a battery inside it, try installing a new battery in the guitar. weak batteries in active guitars can suddenly start sounding bad when the battery drains down.

This looks to be a pretty decent article on that. Even goes into the caps and pots with a nice diagram. http://www.singlecoil.com/docs/paula.pdf

probably more of a case of misunderstood context. Often happens with written word like forums, text, emails etc...When I read these threads, I try to imagine we are all sitting around having a beer just talking shop. I think most guitar players generally have a clever sense of humor and some of that tone is just lost in the forum and some folks end up writing books over something that probably would have just made them laugh had the conversation been face to face....anyway, just my 3rd cent... B)

I would not think so... Seems like a decent idea as you keep the control over topo with a different approach of controlling how hard you hit the power amp. I also run two DT amps (DT50 and DT25)...I use a bean and like a simul-class vibe (DT25 runs AB and DT50 class A) and pin the topo on the amps...

Greetings M20d users. I am a little late to the party and have just started using the M20D for tracking a band that I play with. This is not a live performance situation and our usage of the M20D is completely workflow related. We are able to get great dry tracks and monitor without having deal with a DAW and conventional interface and awkward workflow that goes with that as we tend to track live together. Thus far we are very happy with what we are getting and the improvement to our workflow the M20d has provided. It fits our situation perfectly. Very nice to be able to be able to give out MainMix tracks to everyone at the end of the session and have the dry tracks that seed a song project. Really blows me away at how well this is working for us. However, one small gripe that I have thus far is the lack of frequency keying on the Noise Gate. This kinda limits the usage to more of an expansion gate with a acoustic kit (9 channels). While the Dynamic EQ is pretty clever for getting the garbage out and tightening things up, I would much prefer side chain HPF, LPF filters to tighten up a drum mix. While my concern is recording, as a former touring FOH and monitor engineer I know that filter keying on noise gates pays dividends by being able to lower the threshold to catch the playing dynamics while still keeping things nice and tight. http://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/M20d-LPF-and-HPF-side-chain-filters-for-Noise-Gate/741197-23508?submitted=1

Line Level is -10dBV....My guess is that the impedance is typical 10K....Amp level is going to be lower, but I would think the impedance would be the same....As far as I recall the Output Mode doesn't affect the level, just filtering...Line/Amp switch is what changes the level....

What I have found is that if I can level my patches (and tweak) @ around 80 db SPL (83 db is the typical mastering sound pressure reference), then I am generally pretty good for almost any situation I walk into....My tones are fairly flat and generally need little correction at all on the strip going from one system to another...just my 2 cents...

which outputs would these be? The main outs or USB? Is your firmware and drivers up to date?

One cannot compare the "push off the cliff" difference between 9 going to 10 and 10 going to 11...It's One LOUDER... And where in the heck are you going to find a professional rock guitarist without ear damage?

hmmm...The only way I can think that it might work is to jump the midi I/O with a cable and program FS4 with a specific CCs to turn that reverb on and off....Program FS1 the conventional way and FS4 using CCs...

I guess if I really needed True Bypass in my rack I would get off the couch and get a switchblade....I have been wanting one for years...I would love to be able to rack all my pedals... http://www.soundsculpture.com/products/switchblade.htm

What has really got me peeved is after all these years there is still no slot for my PopTart....So I still have to carry a toaster around on my pedalboard... :blink:

1. Maybe, hard to say as you did not tell us what your amp is....Maybe you have a parallel loop? That would be a problem. 2. If you use a conventional guitar set the secone one to Variax. 3. Probably if you want FX in front of your amp (wahs, screamers etc...) and after your amps preamp (delay, verb etc...)...Not sure of another way based on what you say you want. 4. Use tones with no amp model and make sure the FX Loop Block is always on for your amp tone....Make another patch with no FX Loop Block and pick the amp model you like...

There are no preamp tubes in a spider valve....There are two 12AX7 tubes, but they are FULLY part of the power amp. One is a cacaded triode buffer that drives the second inverter.The inverter tube actually gets quite a bit more current than the buffer tube does and is usually good practice to change the inverter with the power tubes...The good buffer tube should last years and years....Anyhoo, you can swap out the 12AX7s for whatever you like, just stay away from the long plate ones....In terms of the power tubes, do NOT use REAL 5881s as they are underrated for the plate voltage of the SV....The recommended Sovtek 5881s are a great choice as those as NOT real 5881s and can take upwards of 500 volts on the plates and should last a good while....You can swap the power tubes for new ones...However, it would be a good idea to check the bias as soon as you can as it is NOT a good idea to bias these amps too hot because of the DSP board...