spaceatl

300 is not like a 500 at all....Volume Pedal is fixed like an old XTL....You can disable it in the setup menu by setting the min and max to 100% I would suggest that you back up your patches and do a factory reset (power up holding down A)....You can also repeat the calibration....As I recall, that is power up holding the D button....If you miss a step in the procedure you can be without volume in your 300/400....One other thing that can kill volume in a 300/400 is powering the unit down with USB connected...USB will actually partially detect in these units with no power....Anyway, connect and disconnect USB with the 300/400 powered up... Here an old vid that might help... http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/pod/pod-hd300400/video-tutorial-pod-hd300-400-factory-reset-r214

Sorry, you misunderstood my statement...."No Need to Worry About CPU" refers to the CPU in my DAW...UAD cards have DSP chips....Sorry my distinction was not more clear...I edited my post...thanks...

You said you did a global reset....Did you calibrate the pedal?

Well, couldn't one argue that using the EQ as cab correction is nearly the same as room correction....They tend to go a bit hand in hand.... After all, the cab you are correcting for is in a room...And if it's a "Room Full of Mirrors", then there is some room correction happening too....In the situation of using a real speaker cabinet of ANY type, the ONLY time a room isn't there is outside...and even then you can have roof and stage reflections...so even then it is still a room of sorts... I see this splitting hairs. Some of you have some very interesting fundamental notions on when/where/what functionality should be used...great stuff always...

I would not suggest the test mode for live performance....If the house power cycles, you are screwed...

Line 6 went down this road before....Technically, this is nothing more than a data adapter. However, the problem is that you have to determine what the substitutions, delineations and approximations would be for all of the things that are different. In the XT generation, we could switch patches between an XT, XLT, XT Pro, Flextone III, HD147 and Vetta II....However, the reality is that even in the same architecture it was mostly a novelty feature as most folks that tried it came on the board complaining how it did not translate all that well...The substitutions for missing models did not always make sense...XT to HD probably isn't worth the time....By that time you coded the adapter, you could have ported your patches manually...But if it seems to be worth your time, I say go for it...

Only two ways I know of to use a POD with a solid-state Spider... 1. Starting with the Spider 2 and the 3's, you could power up holding the tap button to put it into model bypass mode...basically turns the guitar input into a Line in. This is a test mode and not really that practical. Some folks have used it. 2. Starting with Spiders 3's, most have a CD/MP3 input....Just requires an adapter and you go straight to the power amp. This is likley the simplest solution to using it. You could modify you head so that you have a loop by disabling the line out/headphone cutoff switch...Then it's basically a 4CM setup...However, it's actually stereo... GTR->HD GTR Input HD FX Send->SPider GTR INput Spider Stereo Line out->HD FX Return stereo HD LR 1/4 outs to CD/MP3 Stereo Input (adapting needed) It's technically doable, but leveling that out would be challenging.... I thought midi was added to the Spider 4...I have an SV MK2 that is pretty similar other than the power amp...You should be able to run HD midi out to the SV midi in and be able to change patches....How, they map is anyones guess....You likely have to choose the setlist first...

I have used my old EMU1820 to update a lot of Line 6 firmware...Flextone III XL, XT, SV MK2, DT50, DT25, HD400 and HD Desktop...I have used the UNO also when I have been away from my old DAW...If you have a midi interface, it should work...Some midi interfaces have an echo setting that needs to be turned off....Edirol is the only one I recall that ever had that problem...

This doesn't seem like it is going in a good direction...I have only two other suggestions... First, dial up a "New Tone" patch....Patch with nothing in it...Do you hear the noise? Second, check the input settings page....I am guessing you are using a conventional guitar on the guitar input....Perhaps try switching to the Aux Input and see if you still have the noise...The drawback here is the tuner will not tune the aux input and inputZ has no effect...But this might tell you if the problem is in the Guitar input itself or not... That's all I got...It does sound like a hardware issue...Seems you have gone thru about everything you can do to eliminate it...

Although it takes a little more DSP, I really like using the Vintage PRE in front of the amp model to smooth things out a little...It has a nice color to it and I find the hi and lo pass filters really handy for shaping the outside edges a bit and helps for a little less radical EQ down the chain..

Mine is one louder than yours... :D

It's a good idea to do the System Reset this time on this update...Main reason is that the Setup pages have been changed a bit and there are new global vars that were not there before... Make sure that your Wah led is not on....As you probably know, the toeswitch toggles Volume/Wah mode that correlates to the active Exp of the pedal......

Have you tried to isolate it? One guitar, one cable and headphones....different guitar, different cable...no guitar or cable...etc...

hmmmm......Double check you have not accidentally plugged into the System Link output....I did this once or twice...It's a little close to the XLR Analog Out on the DT25 head....

This discussion reminds me of Double and Triple Rectifiers....I have heard those one trick ponies totally dialed in sounding fantastic and I have heard the totally fizzed out can of bees tone by those that do not know better....

Probably this biggest thing you would need to review prior to updating is the state of your global settings (Setup pages: FS Mode, InputZ, tuner mute and the other odds and ends on those pages...I think most of the folks that have claimed a tone change has been due to the the global settings being reset and not going back thru to make sure things were set back on the setup pages....I have patches I have been using for a few years now and they sound the same...Don't forget the Calibrate your pedal if you are using a 500 type unit...

The bias mod is in there and one of the keys to killing some of the bees IMO...Modeled Power, Output Trannys and input power options would be pretty neat DEPs to have...

I am guessing that you have the L2M hooked up via the link....USB playback will not go over the link (I have a couple of DT amps that have the link)...rather, you would likely need to run the 1/4 outs out of the 500x to the RCA inputs on the L2M to get soundcard playback with you guitar...

The OP has a good point that I agree with...The 5150 defaults are not very good and probably should have been a little better sounding... Master DEP down to 30%, Greenback cab and a 409 or SM57 off-axis do wonders for this model IMHO....There is great tone to be had in the model, you just have to dig for it...

More demos are popping up on YouTube all the time....Here's one...BTW: All I tried to convey to you is the reality of you not finding what you like in terms of demos and reviews that you do have 30 days if you want it...No need to get all bent out of shape...

Words online and demos might be nice, but in the end you really have to decide for yourself if it's what you need. They give you 30 days to try them out...If they don't work for you, take them back...Pretty simple...

maybe, and if it did work, I think the programming would be quite busy....Basically, you run in FS1-8 mode and disable the FS assignments to any block in the patch....Instead you program each of the 8 FS with a PC midi PC (Program Change) message and connect the midi out to the midi in....and repeat on every patch you want this on...On paper it looks like it "might" work...But I think things like the looper or anything that always sends midi messages might make for some weird behavior....

It's a handy model to have. Add a Shure 520 Bullet mic and you have a defacto-standard harp rig....

A little box like this can be handy for integrating midi from different gear... http://www.midisolutions.com/prodepp.htm

My bad...I misread your meaning of "the loop change too"...