spaceatl

I love the POD wahs....I love the optical pedal....less noise, no cable or tone suck...conventional wah isn't worth the trouble for me.... Perhaps for recording if I were to want a very particular sound like using a stock CryBaby tone suck to temper a really bright strat or tele....but then I can do that with the InputZ on the POD so I can't see the point any more...

Did you try safe mode? As I recall, power up with USB disconnected holding down arrow....connect USB, start the monkey and flash....

try a different USB port on your pooter...

The hardest parts on the SV were drilling the 5 holes in the chassis for the pots and points....The points are generally easy to wire...It's getting the pots off the PCB where some PCB experience is helpful...after that it soldering an dressing 7 wires and putting it back together...I am guessing the DT50 has more space in the chassis than a DT-25 combo...

I would like having an RE20 in the list....even a D112 would be pretty cool too....

I do....I use that rate for mixdown rendering/mastering when it's going to end up on a CD at 44.1K....if it's mp3 I use 96K since those end up being 48K....re-sampling works pretty nicely when it's cut in half...no partial frames...

Disabling an Effect does not free the DSP...You must set the block to none...Basically, the DSP is reserved when the block is off so that you might turn it off and on...In essence, consider it always on...XTLive is 10 times less resolution...Does not need nearly as much DSP and the blocks were fixed so there was no way to hang yourself...

I have considered doing that with my MK1 or MK2.... but I use them as power amps these days and they do that job pretty well with an HD POD or my old ADA rack rig... I have never tried the yellow jackets in my own amps, but I did try GT Power Reducers that are basically the same thing in my brother's old 60 watt Ampeg...Basically, the power amp is almost the same as an SV 112 or 212 combo....a pair of 6L6s....Anyways, the change is pretty dramatic and I was very impressed. The mod saved him from going after a Victoria...

My guess is that you mean the style in which those manuals were written...A little humor and a very nice flow...The old AX2 manual is one of my FAVs.... I think with more complexity comes drier reading...But I think it goes a long way towards a perception of stability to release the documentation in tandem with a product or update release...

I disagree, they still have not given us the "Chops" FX model that they have been secretly working on for over a decade... But I think there is some big argument over the name (some want "Skills") and whether or not to make it global block....Then some bozo keeps going on and on about the DEPs on this model want to expose that changes the firmware too much "Theory", "Sweep Factor", "Palm" and "Slop" (aka Hum on the conventional amp models)...The problem with this model is that it requires "The Pick of Destiny" in order to actually work correctly...

UAD....The best plugs I have ever used...and no need to worry about my DAW CPU... http://www.uaudio.com/uad-plug-ins/uad-2-pcie.html Part of my point in posting that was to show that DSP limits are almost always an issue in different facets of audio....My other motivation was to encourage you to consider using post processing for your FX...If you really need more DSP, get 2, 3, 8 or however many HD Pros it takes....Or consider re-amping....You can make a wal off crunch with one....It just takes a little longer to re-amp...

HD isn't designed that way...Unlike some other modelers, the resolution of the models is NOT reduced as they are added...You can add till you run out of DSP without dumbing down quality of the models...So there are limits.... If the limits are not acceptable, you certainly will be compelled to do something about it....More than several ways to get where you want to go in terms of DSP limits and I am sure you probably know what your options are....For my own DSP limit issue, it was the UAD-1 card....I had one...I could only use 8 pultecs...I needed more, so I bought three more cards...Then i had what I needed for what I wanted to do...

Assuming there is some advantage to using the onboard XLR, I would likely take a different approach if mono was required....Likely I would just use a direct box and be done with it and just make sure my patches are summing consistently in stereo or mono regardless of the input.... However, if I had to use the onboard XLRs, I would get an XLR Combiner and use that....That would sum mono and save on wear and tear... Either way, you still have to insure that summing makes sense....The advantage to using a combiner (or 1/4 out for mono) is that it allows you to check the summing and it is possible to have stereo patches that sound good in mono and stereo....That is actually a pretty good thing to do regardless and allows you to run on either way with the same patches...But you have to tweak it... something like this: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Art-SplitCom-Pro-2-Way-Mic-Splitter---Combiner-108581737-i1386015.gc?country=us&currency=usd&isfullsite=1&source=4WWRWXGP&gclid=CjwKEAjw9PioBRDdpqy0-ofG3DgSJAACe5NEQSKz4vL818rKjHMuOyNgXcbIB0WBUVqtPmxeZt0NkxoCd03w_wcB&kwid=productads-plaid^87085911162-sku^108581737@ADL4GC-adType^PLA-device^c-adid^44639487282

The mixer balance controls (They are NOT always pan controls) in center "can" give you stereo output....Whether or not it is stereo depends on what is in the chain and where...The dual paths between the amp(s) and mixer blocks are actually dual stereo paths.... You can run dual stereo FX with pans centers....As duncann indicated, if you stick a mono FX model like the noise gate, the chain will be mono after that point....If you stick a NG on the A chain right in front the mixer, then the A balance control becomes a pan....If you have some stereo effect like the ping-pong before the mixer block on chain B, then the B balance control remains a balance control...

No there is not...

I am not sure which acoustic model it is (Have an HD bean and still in wait...)...I have an XT and I have used the Piezo in the past and it worked pretty nicely for a piezo loaded guitar...Perhaps its the VAX one they added to the pack? From the XT Manual: Line 6 Piezacoustic 2 This one is designed to work with the piezo output of solidbody electrics that have one of those newfangled bridges with the ‘acoustic’ pickup built in. Since you don’t have to worry about the body shaking itself to pieces with feedback on that type of guitar, we’ve cooked up this model with more low-mids and low frequencies. Line 6 Variax Acoustic One of the great features of the Variax Digital Modeling Guitars from Line 6 are their models of acoustic instruments. These sounds are best appreciated through a full range monitor or P.A., due to their high frequency content. This Amp Model was created in order to allow the Variax’s acoustic models to sound as full-range as possible through the speakers of typical guitar amps. This can come in handy when you’re using an acoustic model from a Variax, and listening to it through a guitar amp’s speakers. Keep in mind that since this model provides a large amount of high frequency boost (to compensate for the natural roll-off of typical guitar speakers) and overdriving a model playing an acoustic guitar is not usually a desired thing, this model will likely appear softer than most of its compatriots. If you need more gain, the Drive knob can be used to add some tube preamplification.

I would guess the tooling kits are not nearly as mature or specialized yet, but I wonder about the new kid TI C66x...That thing is pretty darn powerful... http://www.ti.com/lit/wp/sprabn8a/sprabn8a.pdf

As I recall, using either 1/4 out alone on a 500 will sum to mono....However, the XLR outputs will remain stereo....You could also program patches to be mono several different ways....

The firmware to support the model packs has NOT been released for the HDPro yet....It has for the Pro X....Call them and get your money back...

I think it is likely more of a case of "WTF Apple?".....You have the symptom of unexpected shutdown....Is this an Intel Mac? ....If the POD makes it to power off prompt, the firmware is updated properly...No need to update again unless, of course, it just makes you feel better....Then you must update This might fix your unexpected shutdown problem on your Mac if it's an Intel... https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201295

In attempt to get this thread back on track, I would suggest the OP check out the HD Desktop.....That is what I use...I love the form-factor for myself....I have several different situations going on and it just fits my workflow....I have no Variax and have found that I really can do without the Line 6 link even though I have a DT25 and DT50...If you need foot control, it does end up costing a little more...

...a delusion in regards to ones ears being better than everyone else is not worth getting worked up about...obviously, he already knows all there is to know and we are just not on his level... :D

Sure, but you really would not need to use the HD FX Loop.... AMP FX Send->HD GTR IN (pad on) or Aux In HD Left 1/4 out ->AMP FX Return That would give you 8 FX Blocks in your amp FX Loop....

One thing I figured out with my rig is that I like the voicing of Combo PWR Amp better than Stack....Stack has a scooped mid vibe to it....Even though I am using closed back 212 cabs that one would typically suggest using Stack PWR Amp Mode, Combo PWR Amp is closer to what I am looking for...

I have not modified my DT-25 head because there is less point in doing that one since the test points and adjustment are fairly accessible...However, I will be modifying my DT-50112 on the next tube change which should be pretty soon as the Mesa tubes that are in there are several years old... I will post a thread with pics and a parts list with what I find when I do my DT50. Basically, you move the points to the rear chassis of the amp and install some panel mount bias pots...It's not so much a modification, but rather a safety improvement to a cost cutting design...Rear points and adjustment pots have to be done by hand and it would add cost to making the amp...There is an improvement to bias stability in the installing superior bias pot(s) that have superior g-shock ratings as compared to the PCB trim pots...Just means they will not drift as easily and the current is more stable under vibration... The only technical measurement that is needed is insuring that you get pots that have at least the same value pot as the PCB pot that is being replaced....The SV had an issue that the pots were a little undersized (5K)...I also had one on my MK1 that was out of tolerance and I could not get to a 70% bias as I needed 5K of resistance and one of the pots would only get down to 4.8K....In terms of test points and pots, this is not different than an SV, those were not designed to be modified either...