BillBee

Its been awhile but the 2.0 is midi ready. Best thing to do is read up on it. http://line6.com/data/l/0a06000f1344c45ecbcd6e0293/application/pdf/MIDI%20Continuous%20Controller%20Reference%20

When you say "The FX are gone" what exactly do you mean? A normally functioning HD will not have this issue. Fire up HD Edit and see if it is a matter of patch setup (panning for exp.).

From what I have been able to dig up there more than likely a smd part that has been cooked and needs to be replaced. I have a giant box ready and as soon as the taxes are paid and funds set aside it the process of the HD100s trip to the Mothership will start. I'll post progress here when an item of note pops up.

My man, it should have "basic functioning" but beyond that: NOTE: When using the FBV 3 with the Spider IV and Spider Valve MKII series, the FBV 3 cannot be used as the interface to update or edit the amps with your computer. The FBV MKII pedals (Shortboard and Express) must be used for that functionality. Assignable color LEDs available for use with Firehawk 1500 only. LEDs are red when FBV 3 is used with other Line 6 products The FBV MKII is nice and allows for editing. Is the FBV3 having issues or is it the Spider IV? Try another FBV and see if its the FBV3 or amp .

Return it and get the compatible one. http://line6.com/support/page/kb/_/effects-controllers/fbv-mki-mkii-controllers/the-complete-line-6-pedal-compatibility-faq-r58

Hey my man - my intermittently working MKI HD100 just went black boxed. So........... Question: I did find a thread off a different post where the black box of death was fixed on a MKI. (copied the post but didn't BM the page): "since installing the new 3.3V regulator (TPS70933DBVR), the amp is now working. Not at first though. After replacing the voltage regulator, (major PITA, btw, because of the SMT miniature size) I powered up the amp and saw... eight black boxes in the LCD as was the original condition. Darn it! I checked the 3.3V rail and saw a floating-looking 2.2 or so volts. Turns out that the solder connection on pin2 (GND) of the 3.3V regulator chip I had just replaced wasn't actually touching the solder pad of the PCB. To the eye the solder looked reasonable., with a magnifier it still looked good, but when I measured pin2 with respect to ground - no continuity. The solder was really floating ever-so-slightly above the solder pad. This surface mount stuff is just too small to reliably see, at least for me. Reheated, re-flowed, and got that pin shorted to ground like I wanted. Now all is good and the amp runs at it should." This is Service Center material and I am looking at options for having the DSP board reflowed/component serviced. Would I 1) take it into my local service spot so they can pull the board and send it too you (if they cannot do the smt soldering themselves) or 2) Pull the board myself and send it to L6 or 3) Have the whole head shipped to the L6 mothership. or 4) I am out of my mind. :P I don't have a lot of $ tied into it any more and its worth a gamble. The MK Is are pretty toasty in there and I can see where a improper voltage would keep it from initializing. The power amp alone is playing its rent. :D

AFAIK L6 never used a switchable transformer in their amps so you would need the correct one. I would shoot them an email and see if the Flex I tranny is the same for the Flex II - just to make sure you don't make 2 bricks. :)

1) Make sure the device is connected 2) Download the flash file to your 'puter 3) In Monkey chose "flash from file" Try a different usb port/cable and try again. Hope that works.

Assuming it is a switch issue: My first instinct would be to disassemble and clean the switches with some DeOxit contact cleaner. If its under warranty - have it serviced.

TBH its not that bad per se. Yes a PITA, but I usually set things up (for a Pod) a) clean b) OD c) dist d) a lead patch. Channel up/down if a different song needs it.

So if you are in bank 1, on preset A and you hit the FBV bank up it switches to bank 2 preset A automatically? if so, then it looks like you probably have to manually duplicate the settings by hand per bank.

I get it now. Used Shortboards are fairly cheap, depending on where you live.

I have an old II but its the wee 15 watt so no FBV. So guessing here: Each time you bank up or down you should be able to save the current patch into the new bank's A, B, C or D by holding down the button of what channel you want to save to. Worth a try. Yes that manual is slim. :0

Ouch, those pots were shaved nice and clean too.

Are you talking about the pot shafts being broken? I couldn't tell how much pot shaft was left. :) I am quite sure the pots can be replaced but that might be a Service Center thing as you do not want that thing to screw up my man. I can't tell you off hand which might be a regular pot and which might be an encoder for certain. FullCompass.com carries a bunch of L6 parts you might cruise over there and browse.

http://store.line6.com/parts/amps.html There is a DT/SV knob kit in there ~ $12

Submit a Support Ticket to line 6 and explain your problem regarding the # of authorizations.

He needs to download and read the manual.

Shot in the dark here but when was the last time the tubes were changed?

I am running a spare PC with WinXP. The XTL & workbench works with my V500. Don't have a Mac.

This is a long shot, but there are ribbon connectors inside of the unit which might need to be reseated. Pop off the bottom and you will see them. While you are in there you might want to give them a shot of DeOxit or whatever electrical parts cleaner you might have.

Its called a trip to the Service Center. Black Squares are never good. If you can't get a reflash to take it has to go back to the mothership.

Delete this. You have a thread and have jumped on to two other threads with the same question.

You already started a different thread on this.

You need to contact L6 directly and/or start calling the service center. They are here, but don't get to every post.