codamedia

Do you plan on using the same cabinet for all presets? If so, just replace the IR with the cabinet on one preset.... then save that cab block as a favorite once you fine tune it to your liking. Next - go into each preset and replace the IR block with that "favorite" cab block. Yes it's tedious, but it won't take that much time. IIRC... only individual preset backups are written in json... not the setlists or the full backups. IMO, it would be just as easy to manually change that block than to export, search/replace, import each and every preset. Yes - having a tool for this would be great.

I'm glad that worked.... I'm just leaving you something to consider. When you use more than one midi device it is always best to assign a discreet midi channel to each device. When you leave everything set to OMNI (ALL) every device is always listening and will jump into action when they recognize the command. Assigning different channels prevents that from happening, in short.... no unexpected consequences.

RCA Inputs are almost always -10 Line Level (consumer grade line level)... I can't see why any company would deviate from that. If those were mine... I'd set the Helix output to LINE Level.

The "Kill Em All" album, or did I miss one? Those tones on "Kill em All" have some rich mids, and a lower gain structure than you have dialed in. FWIW, I used my Les Paul for testing. IMO... the 2204 model (JCM800) will get you closer to that tone than the Plexi. Don't scoop the mids, then add a TS (or RAT if you prefer) for leads. Let the amp carry the rhythm itself. (add effects to taste) Just my 2 cents...

There is nothing in that video clip that can't be done with a Helix LT.... actually.... There is nothing in that clip that would scratch the surface of the capabilities of the Helix LT. What you would gain from the switch is a lot more control via footswitches and the built in EXP. What you lose (at this time) is the fabulous cab block options in the Fractal... Not the number of cabs, the options within.

FWIW... you should do that with every preset - LOL! I am not a fan of factory presets. None the less, I'll try to help you out :) Do a full factory reset... it will set the unit to it's factory state and erase "everything" you have done to it. Keep in mind, different firmware versions have different presets.... if your preset was from an older firmware, it may not still exist. In that case, learning how to use HX Edit's backups/restores is your best friend. You don't say what device you have.... so here are the reset options for each one... Helix or Helix LT Restore stock presets + setlists: Hold footswitches 7 + 8. Restore stock presets + setlists + IR’s: Hold footswitches 8 + 9. Restore stock presets + setlists + IR’s and Globals: Hold footswitches 9 + 10. Reset Globals: Hold footswitches 5 + 6. Erase and restore/reset all factory and user presets: Hold footswitches 10 + 11. Erase and clear current preset only: Hold footswitches 11 + 12. Update Mode: Hold footswitches 6 + 12. Helix Rack Restore stock presets + setlists: Hold encoders 3 + 4. Restore stock presets + setlists + IR’s: Hold encoders 4 + 5 Restore stock presets + setlists + IR’s and Globals: Hold encoders 5 + 6. Reset Globals: Hold encoders 2 + 3. Erase and restore/reset all factory and user presets: Hold encoders 1 + 3. Erase and clear all presets, setlists, and IRs: Hold encoders 1 + 5. Update Mode: Hold encoders 1 + 6. HX Effects Restore stock presets: Hold footswitches 5 + 6. Erase and clear all presets + IR’s: Hold footswitches 3 + MODE. Restore all presets + IR’s + global settings: Hold footswitches 6 + TAP. Restore Globals: Hold footswitches 4 + 5. Update Mode: Hold the right arrow “>” button. HX Stomp Erase all presets/IRs: Hold all three footswitches. Erase and reset all presets + IR’s: Hold footswitches 1 + 2. Erase and reset allpresets + IR’s + global settings: Hold footswitches 2 + 3.

Just an FYI.... I have been restoring your backup now for about a month and cannot get the problem to surface. The problem is, I can't leave your settings in place for more than a few days as I am gigging every weekend... I need to find a time where I can load them for a couple weeks or more.

Look at that big "X" with the word "none" below it at the beginning of the lower path. That means no signal is entering it. Set that the same as the TOP path.... "Multi"... There are other ways to do it as well... but getting that preset to work would be a good start.

FYI... You are in the HELIX forum, and that video is about using a VARIAX and HD500. Maybe you should post this question in the HD forums. Aside from that... IMO, a harmonizer will not get you a more realistic 12 string than the VARIAX will. A harmonizer is going to put an octave on every string... but that's not how a 12 string works where the high E and B are actually unison strings... only the bottom 4 are octaves. A harmonizer can't distinguish that difference, and therefore "everything" is processed with an octave. I usually like Ritchies videos, but I can't say that was a very good endorsement of the Variax. With a little tweaking, they can sound much more realistic :) Just my 2 cents.

Actually, you don't lose the tuner with this method... if you press and hold the tuner will still come up. But the initial press (while holding for the tuner to engage) will engage the "boost" (in my example). You have to keep track of the boost being on or off since there is no "light" to remind you. Like I said... there are pro's & con's to this approach :) In the end I went a different direction, but I did do that for about 6 months and it worked fine. FWIW... The Tap Tempo still works as well, but as you can imagine... tapping in a tempo would engage/disengage the boost multiple times - LOL!

That's exactly how I feel... Sure there are a few things on my wish list - but it's exactly that, a "wish" list. If you don't use your TAP TEMPO, you can setup a midi loop (attach a midi cable from the out to in) and assign that button to engage a boost in command center. It has it's pro's/con's... just like most compromises do. I did that for a while and it works fine... but if you use tap tempo a lot it wouldn't be very convenient.

Yes it is... providing us with a lot of insight "most of us" would never think of on our own.

I don't think it's possible in Snapshot mode... but it is in Stomp mode using command center as outlined already by "theElevators". I could be wrong... but doesn't the new command center options only work in STOMP MODE? The OP is asking about SNAPSHOT mode, which I believe is still "fixed" to 8 snapshots. I was looking for a way to add a simple "BOOST" to a button in my snapshot mode not long ago, but could not find a way to do it without actually loading a snapshot. The new command center options are great in Stomp mode... I wish they would also allow it in Snapshot Mode which is where I would prefer to use it. In the meantime, I've got my LT laid out very conveniently so it's a "wish list" item not a "must have" :)

Although it is not related to the EMI interference... I need to point out that this is simply not true. I use a dedicated audio interface and even though I have an "option" to use my Helix as an interface, my setup never uses it as one. When I connect my Helix via USB for editing my dedicated audio interface keeps chugging along as it always did. The Helix does not take over. By default a PC will automatically choose a device to use... and that can get frustrating. But if you dig into the audio settings on your PC you can change this behavior easily.

Even though the 1 second recording doesn't reveal much, this suggests USB RF or EMI interference/noise. Do you use good quality USB cables and do your USB cables have RF chokes or EMI filter on them?... if not, they should. The basic solutions for this is to try different USB ports (if possible) and try different USB cables. NOTE: Just because a cable has a choke or filter that doesn't guarantee it's a good cable. USB cables come in a variety of quality levels. When working with audio and video gear you need a good quality cable (first), preferably with an RF choke or EMI filter (second). Short of that.... connect the Helix to USB only when you need to and live with the noise during that time.

It looks like you have more than one problem going on.... you need to take it one step at a time. Get the EXP working... you do this by setting up a Volume Pedal Block, then adjust the M-Audio EXP until it works. Once you know the M-Audio EXP is working... don't touch it other than to move it's treadle. The settings never have to change again. Now that you know the EXP is working... remove it from the volume block and assign it to the pitch WHAM... it should just work when the pitch wham is on. Now that you get that working, work on the "auto engage" for the pitch wham until you get it working. The key point it to get the M-Audio working (in step 1) so you KNOW it works. Then you just have to learn how to set up the other stuff and not worry about how the M-Audio settings.

It's already been addressed... I'm just piling on with my my 2 cents. Studio trickery (and relatively easy "in the studio").... but simply not possible (realistically) in real time. The closest you can get (live/real time) is to learn the part in reverse... and use a volume pedal to swell in the lines so it seems authentic. Sadly... you can't swell in all the nuances and/or effects in reverse... which is a big part of the sound. A simple "fixed" fade in won't work (ie: Slow Gear effect or reverse delay)... as each note would require a different duration to fade in. Some would be really fast, others really slow. To imagine how hard this would be to create... imagine a vocal processor that could reverse a vocal, full words and inflections... before the vocalist actually sings the line. IMO... modeling company's might get this effect down about the same time a travel company perfects the "transporter".

My Les Paul will have a similar pickup configuration as an SG with humbuckers.... On my LP presets I place the GAIN block at the very front of the chain, and lower it by -6db. That makes the amps and effects (drives/compressors, etc..) respond much more like I am accustomed since my TELE is my main instrument. I prefer using the GAIN block over the input pad because it's not a fixed value... you can adjust it to the exact level you need at the front of the chain.

If you are following my first suggestion.... the gain block needs to be in the LOOP of the AC30. I am suggesting it's use to compensate (lower) the volume that the initial boost is creating. The original BOOST is pushing the front end of the VOX into more overdrive, the gain block in the loop is just lowering the level back to normal without changing any gain/overdrive structure. It would have the same result. The gain block just makes it easier to turn it on/off at the same time as the boost block... simply by assigning both to the same switch. If you use an output level instead, then you would have to get into adjusting values instead of a simple on/off.

I think you are victim of yourself. Buying, selling, searching for the elusive... it's a never ending game. Nothing is old and outdated when it still sounds great! It's up to you to buy into the platform that suits you best. Next time you get bored, learn something knew about the product you already own, don't go searching for something when you don't really know what that something is.

IMO... if you need to do that much "fixing", something else is seriously wrong. Have you tried a 2nd EQ/Analyzer beyond "match EQ"... no experiment is complete without 2nd/3rd/4th opinions. The results Craig Anderton posted look much more like I would expect... and I've trusted Craig's troubleshooting/testing methods since the early 80's. As he says in his post.... "There are a lot of variables in your setup and I don't know what they are."

It's also a terrible MIDI controller, which is something the OP was listing as a required feature. Not to mention - it's size isn't much smaller than a Helix.

The same "effect/amp" tone is used throughout the song... match the tone of those big chords he plays then work on the technique used in the intro to get the sound. The guitar has a big part in the tone. Aside from being humbuckers, the pickup selection changes throughout the song. The intro (plucking parts) are done with the guitar in the middle position... both humbuckers. This is open and airy. The chords/strums are done with the bridge pickup only. This is more mid-focused and tight.

LT or RACK.... Neither will really save you any space... The LT will save you $$$ at the cost of some I/O, Scribbles and ruggedness. Fine for some, not for others :)

Installing HX Edit is pointless without the Hardware.... you can install it, but it won't load without hardware. Of course, you can download and install the latest version in preparation for your new hardware.... you just can't use it. You can download a trial of Helix Native if you would like to see what you can expect from the Helix family, but Native will require a DAW in order to use it.