codamedia

Global Settings > Footswitches > Stomp Select Try setting it to OFF and see if that solves the problem.

The LT can certainly run the two amps you mention along with 2 x 1024 IR blocks in parallel on one of the paths... but there isn't a lot of DSP left over. I suggest you build your preset by creating those amps/IR's, then add effects.

YES! It's the all important first step... which is often overlooked. An IR cannot fix bad tone... it can only enhance an already good/great tone.

You're not missing anything... that just isn't possible. Even if it was the sound would be tremendously artificial due to the massive jump in pitch. I went through this when I was hoping to get a 5 string banjo tuning out of the variax.... there is no way around it other than getting really creative and compromising... which then changes the natural fingering of the instrument.

Staying on the subject of the last few posts.... I own the pesky kid brother of the original Variax line... the 300. When I bolted on a mid 80's Fender Tele neck it completely transformed how the guitar played. It went from feeling like a novelty to becoming a real guitar. My Variax is used as a utility guitar... when I need to swap out acoustic or banjo sounds and electric sounds on the fly. I would like a nicer model with magnetic pickups but don't have a lot of faith in Line 6 support for this product. "Guitars" and "planned obsolescence" don't go together well.... IMO.

Isn't this normal with acoustic IR's? Unlike cabinet IR's I find acoustic IR's should just be lightly blended in... I don't think I have any as high as 20-25%. In fairness, I do not own any 3 Sigma IR's... but I do own a few others, and I made a batch of my favorites from my Fishman Aura and even with the Aura hardware I never ran the blend very high.

I search before I ask, but I don't search this forum.... the search function simply isn't good enough to find what I am looking for. I do a Google search... and quite often it ends up pointing me to a helpful thread on these forums. If I want to search these forums from Google, I add "site:line6.com/support/" to the end of my search phrase Example: compatible exp pedal site:line6.com/support/ That example searches for the phrase "compatible exp pedal" ONLY on the Line 6 forums.

I just found this video.... and he does a demo of spillover there. He briefly talks about spillover between 15:45 and 17:30 He talks a lot about spillover and how to use it between 27:00 and 32:15 He demo's it between 32:15 and 35:00

Are you sure the presets you are moving between only utilize one path? Not just the preset you are leaving, but also the preset you are landing on. Sorry, I haven't tired it myself so I don't know for certain how well it works.

Exactly.... LUNA is tied to the UA Thunderbolt interfaces. It doesn't support any 3rd party interfaces at this time. To mark as solved... Edit your original post then alter the title to include "solved".

Welcome to the forum... that's a heck of a 1st rant post. This thread is 4 1/2 years old The post you quoted is 2 years old The Helix got meters this year... including gain reduction meters. It looks like you are all worked up over nothing :)

As stated.... genuine alternate tunings are not possible with PolyPitch. If you only use the Variax to drop/raise the entire guitar a pitch or two (neither is great with large drops/raises).... I'd still give the edge to the Variax, but only a little. PolyPitch is quite nice out of the gate, but it will require a little more refining before it matches or betters the Variax (IMO of course)

I fully agree with your upgrade approach... The reason I suggest installing HX Edit 3 prior isn't to try an update from HX Edit, but to make sure the latest drivers are installed. Sorry I wasn't clear about that.

IMO.... Start with this step before trying to run any installers. Installing HX Edit 3 also installs the latest drivers which are important. OP may also need to start the Helix in "update mode" (hold buttons MODE and TAP during start up for helix floor/LT) prior to running the installer.

Sorry... I misunderstood what you are asking. My recollection of the DD2 and DD3 is a slight initial degradation (from live to a 12 bit repeat)... but I don't recall degradation beyond that. That doesn't mean it didn't, it just means I didn't notice :) I'm not the best person to discuss this with though. My delay uses are very minimalistic I love the warmth of a bucket brigade or tape over a few repeats... but never experiment with "bit crushers" in any way.

Nobody is saying that! Line 6 does use these forums (or facebook) for feature requests.... at most, they look in to see if we are behaving :) line6.ideascale.com is the place to post your idea's!

Great tip... and one that should work with any amp that has a "jump" model included.

Celestions and Jensens would "almost always" be clearly labelled as such. If it's labelled "Specially Designed for Fender" (often in a yellow/brown label) it is likely an Eminence. Another tell tale sign of an Eminence is a code that start with "67-xxxxxxx" It's nice to know what you are listening to... just to give you a good starting point. That is quite common. Don't hesitate to use both paths on the Helix... that's why they are there. My live "electric" preset chain is a serial path of 32 blocks. Only a few blocks remain unused... :)

My live tones are all based around a nice clean Fender tone.... into a Celestion IR. Since getting my Helix I've used the Fender Deluxe Normal Channel as the core tone but with the introduction of the Princeton model in the last update I've been experimenting with that. In my home studio I love it.... but everything is locked down where I live so there are no gigs to give it a good trial run. The Hot Rod Deluxe has come with a few different speakers over the years... do you know what yours is running? I think the most common was an Eminence configuration.... and the most similar I can think of in the Helix Stock Cabs would be the 1x12 Deluxe which is based on an Oxford. If your Deluxe is running a Celestion Model, there are several options in the Helix for those. Input level has a huge impact on tones... make sure you calibrate the input level of Native to match your Helix to avoid any surprises when you move them over.

Don't get fooled by LOUDER. Louder always sounds better, until it doesn't, or until you need more :) I don't know exactly what you are trying to do.... but in the digital realm, the last thing you want are things blinking RED. Keep them well under that at all costs! Digital generally works best with levels between -24 and -12. On the older VU (analog) systems this would be 0 - +12 (aka, blinking red) You have nothing to gain by running a digital system to it's limits! Keep your meters in the green, and shape your tone PRIOR to that! There is ZERO "tone/special sauce" added by running the signal as HOT as possible. Digital doesn't work like that.

Lexicon reverbs are very unique... they had creative algorithms far beyond their years! When you need/want that sound there are two ways to get it... Easy Way: Use a Lexicon Not so Easy Way: Try combining a bunch of different products to see if they can sound like a Lexicon. IMO... With the Helix you have to move on to option #2. Figure out what makes a lexicon tick.... then combine a series/parallel combination of a few blocks and try to get close. I know, I'm really just sayin what you said in a different way. Sorry I can't be more help. With my project studio I own a Lexicon bundle... so I have never had the need to try coaxing it out of the Helix. I'm not sure where to even begin :) On a side note... Lexicons are often blamed for the "80's sound"... but IMO that is not fair. Calling a Lexicon dated would be like calling an AC30 or Plexi dated. Their usefulness does not expire when the decade of creation does! In case it isn't clear.... I really like Lexicon Reverbs! Thanks for starting this thread... I'll be following!

The Global settings were reset during the update.... Use your backup (you do have one right?) to restore the global settings and things should return to normal. It could be something completely different... but start there!

You don't say which MODE so I will try to cover them all... For the basic "time" modes... The "Simple Delay" is pretty much a BOSS DD pedal. For the HOLD function, try the new "Poly Sustain" For the REVERSE function, try the "Reverse Delay" I don't know enough about the WARP function or how it sounds to make a suggestion.

FWIW... I use a Fender Deluxe (normal input) model for my platform... but I have also been experimenting with the new Princeton model which is quite nice. I don't run them with a traditional "scooped" tone.... I run the mids up around 7, and the bass/treble down closer to 3 which flattens the models al little. As for overdrive stacking... for me... nothing beats a neutral sounding overdrive (Timmy, KOT/POT, etc...) being goosed by a Tube Screamer before it. The natural sounding drive is the core tone.... while the TS will reduce highs/lows creating a really thick mid range that allows solos to jump through the mix. Keep in mind... when stacking overdrives it is the last "active" overdrive that will shape the fundamental tone of the two. IE: A TS into a Timmy sounds very different than a Timmy into a TS. (replace those models with any models you choose) EDIT TO ADD: I agree 100% with @JimGordon regarding his quick summary of the various amps.

How much can they possibly squeeze into a Stomp footprint? Pretty sure the only option equals a 2nd stomp... or an HX Effects.