codamedia

That's exactly how I felt when I listened to the OP's clips... When you listen to the original You Tube video he references later - the tone in the video is actually more similar to HIS clip. Something was really lost in that conversion... FWIW: I dialed in the ANGL amp on my LT and my sound is pretty much the same as yours. The only differences would be slight, and likely just guitar related.

Why does his sample (in your clip of him) sound so different than when I listen to the actual You Tube post you are referencing? It's lacking low mids and sound like the key has been raised a semi-tone. His actual video is in Ab and has a very similar (at least within the ball park) tone as you do. It needs to be asked.... how are you monitoring You Tube? If that clip is what you actually hear on your end, it is not accurate to what his tone really sounds like. EDIT TO ADD: When watching the original video I notice he is using Firmware 2.7.1. In Firmware 2.8 Line 6 updated most (if not all) default amp settings in a response to people complaining about FIZZ. This would "contribute" to the change in tone I hear between YOUR CLIP and HIS ORIGINAL YOU TUBE CLIP.

Not that it really matters, but you are describing a pedal steel more than a lap steel. As stated above.... what you are asking can be achieved with a Variax... but it has to be a 2nd Generation model such as the JTV, Standard or Shuriken. For an example of this (Helix/Variax, momentary B Bender) see 3:40 of this video....

As I said in my post.... I would be speculating as to why a "few" models deviated from the 5 position as the default settings. Only the person that created the default would be able to explain this... it's even possible they are the ONLY person at Line 6 that knows why. LOL.... I have to put that word into Google every time I type it... then copy/paste the correct spelling.

I believe 5 is neutral to that amp model under ideal conditions (stable power, proper voltage, healthy caps, etc...) In these two extreme examples the amps respond as I expect... the sag is clearly different yet each default setting is still 5. In real life a Hiwatt does not sag.... same with the Helix model with a default of 5 In real life a Tweed Deluxe sags into oblivion.... so does the Helix model with a default of 5 There aren't many amps that have a different "default" setting than 5... but there are a few. Why is the default set differently on those few amps? I would only be speculating, and nobody needs that :)

Plead your case... this is within tolerance for some suppliers, and out of the question for others. Line 6 itself is really good to deal with, but since you are in another country there will be a distributor involved and you might have to deal with them. Did you ever open a support Ticket on the Line 6 Support area... or just communicate with the "Europe" support? Distributor agreements are complex... but "sometimes" the head company can persuade (eg: work with) the other side to set things right. I live in Canada... and speak from experience on that matter :)

Does your audio interface not have inputs? IMO..... plug the output of the Stomp into the INPUTS on the interface and call it a day! There is no need to run the audio "digitally through the computer" when you simply want to play guitar. You will not notice any degradation in sound! When recording you can always track the sound directly from the Stomp through USB (if you want).... but that doesn't mean you can't monitor it directly through the interface (with no latency) at the same time. FWIW: I always connect/monitor through my interface for the lowest latency possible. Since I love the sound of the pre-amps in my interface (and that is what I hear anyway) I don't bother tracking the Helix digitally/directly through USB, I track it through my interface inputs. That's not meant to be a "right vs wrong" way of doing it... it's just how I do it. If I didn't have great sounding pre-amps, I'd likely do it differently.

This is either a simple user error that you cannot seem to get around (that's not meant to be rude.... it happens to all of us at times) or it is a malfunctioning unit. Do you know anyone that uses a Helix and doesn't have these sorts of problems? If so, get them to try the update procedures and troubleshoot the issue. Find the nearest line 6 support depot and get it in for them to look at it. This forums can only get you so far.... and based on everything you have stated there is nothing left to suggest!

I don't think it's nasty... but I also don't believe it is appropriate on many amps. I will work with proper mic choice and placement before removing all presence from the amp... when it's an amp that normally benefits from presence . (Marshalls, Hiwatt, etc...) The dreaded "fizz" has returned to conversation :) This has been discussed many times in the past on these forums. You seem to have latched onto Presence as the culprit, but you really should consider other factors. Have you played with the mic choices and positions? While I don't know for certain, the finished tones you admire might simply be mic'ed differently. EG: A '57 at 1" will inherently have a lot of presence you will have problems dialing out if you don't like it. The Helix Cabinets are mic'ed at "center position" which is the brightest spot on a speaker.... but most engineers will mic a speaker somewhere between the "center" and "edge". The closer to the edge you get, the darker (less ice-pick) the mic'ed tone becomes. Try some different mics on the cabinets. Every mic will have a different tonal response, and it makes a huge difference. Although the Helix cannot move the position of the mic, you can simulate it. Insert the TILT EQ after the cabinet For simplicity, leave the default settings alone. Move the TILT toward the DARK setting (eg: turn it down from center). Every -10 is similar to moving the mic about 1" toward the edge of the cone. FWIW... I run mine around "dark 50"... about half way between center and edge.

Here is a very detailed thread about the "extra" controls some amps or effects have applied to them. Although it is an older thread, it seems to be get updated fairly regularly to keep up with the firmware releases. https://line6.com/support/topic/19961-helix-amp-model-gallery-real-controls-vs-invented/

This topic cannot have a blanket "all or none" answer. Some amps have presence controls, some do not... therefore it will work better with some amps than others. I don't artificially add presence to a BF Fender or Vox tone....but you bet I use it on the Marshalls and other amps that originally had it. This is a link to a continually updated thread about the "phantom" controls available in the Helix for many amp & effect models and how to set them for accuracy. Nobody has to stick to these guidelines, but I'm a firm believer in knowing/understanding the rules before you break them. https://line6.com/support/topic/19961-helix-amp-model-gallery-real-controls-vs-invented/

Exactly.... different Amp. A Mark IV is very different than a Mark IIC+... MESA brought back the C+ voicing in the Mark V.... but the Helix models are based on the Mark IV. Well... that AND the speaker difference would certainly contribute to the differences you notice :)

Now that your problem is solved on your existing setup... here are a couple of suggestions... Another option to YOUR setup.... On Path B.... Leave SEND 1 in place, but turn the "Dry Thru" all the way down On Path B....set the output (Send 1/2) PAN to hard left....just in case any signal gets through the Send 1 block... This is how I would do it.... Path A as you have it setup... however I would use LOOP 1 rather than LOOP 2 (this is to keep Left = 1 and Right = 2 straight in my OCD mind - LOL) Path B set to use MAIN OUT L/R.... I would insert SEND 2 on PATH B and turn the "Dry Thru" all the way down.... Hook SEND 2 up to the Synth pedal For safety, I would then set PATH B output PAN to hard right. If any signal does get through the SEND - it lands in on an empty output.

You can run one directly into the next one (outputs of unit 1 > inputs of unit 2) Or you can put one into an FX Loop of the other unit.... The only downside is that you are going through multiple AD/DA conversions. FWIW, I used to run an HX Effects in the Loop of my HD500. That setup worked without any issues and I used it until I upgraded to a Helix LT.

For clarity.... I changed your paths in the quote to reflect the LOOP and SEND numbers. I came to this conclusion when looking at your attached image. Those numbers are critical to understanding where the problem is occurring. There are two problems with your setup.... With Path B panned 100% right on SEND 1/2.... you are actually sending that output to SEND 2 which is joining your LOOP 2 (4CM) in Path A. That's why the reverb is showing up at your amp. Also in Path B, you have a redundant setup. If you are sending to SEND 1/2, you don't need to insert a SEND Block. To fix your setup as it is..... Remove the send block from Path B Pan PATH B output (SEND 1/2) 100% LEFT. This will send the Path B output to SEND 1. I know it may look strange to pan both setup of outputs to the LEFT but you need to remember.... you are using 2 separate sets of outputs :) There are many ways to route your setup that might (or might not) be easier. For sake of keeping things simple, I am just providing the fix for your current setup.

Can you describe your path(s) in greater detail so we know exactly how you have it setup? Or share your preset so we can take a close look?

The problem shouldn't be happening, therefore adding any sort of band-aid to the fix will not be a solution, it may just complicate things. Start with an empty preset..... and one by one add the blocks you want. Take note of when the problem arises.... If the problem exists with an empty preset, then something is not right. You need to get it right before adding blocks. I don't own a Stomp so I don't know the input options... my suggestions may or may not be relevant. If there is an impedance setting, set it to 1M to see if that solves the problem. If there is an input gate... disengage it.

@jawinick.... that video from Jason is outstanding.... thanks for posting it. That is stuff I am very aware of and familiar with, but I have such a hard time explaining to people. I'm going to keep that video link handy and let Jason explain it from now on - LOL!

Don't limit your request to HX Effects users.... the Helix uses the exact same harmonizers, so you might want to open the door for anyone to help. I haven't dug into the harmonizers myself... but this video might give you an idea of how good they are... or aren't depending on your perspective :)

Usually the cheap fender footswitch is just a switch and a jack...although designs do change over the years. I don't know for certain if they do or don't these days. There is an easy way to test "a basic footswitch operation" with your amp. Plug a cable into your reverb on/off jack Short the end of the cable with a wire. (jump the tip to the sleeve) If it pops... the pop is inherent to the amp, the Helix is not the cause of the problem. If it doesn't pop, then the Helix might be doing something a little differently.

I would agree in the perfect world. But if your guitar is recorded too hot, or too quiet there is absolutely no harm in using the Native input level to adjust the input level accordingly. When playing through Helix Native.... of course, try to get the level right coming into the system. I share my presets between the two all the time. When the guitar input is in spec (roughly -18 give or take a little) they sound pretty much identical. Sure, there might be a little tonal variance between interfaces... but it's minimal compared to other factors. IMO of course.

Great video.... thanks for sharing. Also, as a Canadian I must say.... "love the shirt"!

^^^ this ^^^ Don't run the scarlett input too high... then set your Helix Native input slider so the input signal at the plugin is "roughly" -18db..... Anything -24 to -12 will be OK.... I'm just suggesting -18 since it's middle ground :)

Do we know the Helix is the culprit? Do you have the manufacturer (OEM) footswitch for this amp? Does it work without popping? As @rd2rk mentions... you may have to wire a capacitor and/or resistor across the tip/sleeve of the cable you use between the Helix and Reverb control of the amp. I don't know the value off the top of my head... but that info is easy to find.

Don't limit your searches to the HX Effects while looking for user reviews....it uses the exact same effects as the Helix so any reviews on the effects are relevant. It's just the amp/cab modeling and hardware features that differ. That should not be an issue any longer. There were some problem units at the very beginning with noisy FX Loops, but I haven't seen that complaint in a long time, so I suspect the majority of those units have been weeded out. Line 6 takes care of you if you do end up with one of those units.