rd2rk

No. You assign the BIG KNOB to a different output so that the output to the PC+ is always at UNITY (0db). Otherwise it affects the PC+ INPUT level. You assign an Expression Pedal to send MIDI CC#7, which will then control the PC+ OUTPUT level (the PC+ Level Knob). Unfortunately, you'll need to do this on a per preset basis. I build my presets starting from a template which includes that setting.

It's possible to do this (screenshot attached), but the latency is REALLY awful. If your system doesn't have enough resources to run a low resource DAW like Reaper in the background (or it's too much latency), your best bet is to take your Helix Outputs to a cheap mixer (around $50) and connect your speakers to it. That way you can use the computer's output for streaming audio (spotify, youtube, backing tracks), and mix it with the Helix Outputs. Mixing the two signals is much easier with a mixer than taking the audio from the computer through the Helix, which requires you use the streaming app's level control, which not all apps can do. If your computer speakers can't connect that way, consider a pair of Studio Monitors. I've heard that the Presonus Eris 3.5 ($100) work well. In my Studio (the living room) I use Rokit6 monitors attached to a Focusrite Scarlett interface. The Scarlett has S/PDIF, which allows me to use the Digital Out from my Helix Floor, eliminating an AD/DA conversion, though this is not at all essential, analog sounds fine. In my Office (the dining room) I have an HXS connected to a Behringer Onyx502, out to a Sony 3-way (2x6+10) bookshelf system. This sounds surprisingly good.

I've asked multiple tlmes over on TGP (where the knowledgeable L6 reps hang out) for at least a hint if a FW update, at least for bug fixes on the 212, is even in the works. Dead silence. I asked a support tech during a call about another issue, and he said that he THINKS it MIGHT be in queue, possibly someplace (I inferred) lower in priority than the coffee-maker feature for the Helix. I'm not holding my breath. Could be that the recent big discounts on the PC line indicate an attempt to clear inventories for a new HW version? Based on the attention being paid my $1400 ($1959.99 MSRP) PC212+, I probably won't buy another L6 "dream rig" amp solution (says the G.A.S.aholic ;-) ). I don't mean to be totally negative about the unit, it sounds REALLY good. But considering the GREAT support that the Helix (happy owner since 2016, HXS since 2019) gets, I'm disappointed. It has such great potential. FWIW - the bugs I referred to on the 212 reportedly aren't present on the 112, so there's that.

FW 3.0 Rev C

Page 60 of the manual: 71 0-5 Footswitch Mode (0=Stomp, 1=Scroll, 2=Preset, 3=Snapshot, 4=Next footswitch mode, 5=Previous footswitch mode) So, CC#71 Value 3 = Snapshot mode.

HXS has TWO FX Loops, FX Loop L (TIP out of the TRS FX Send) and FX Loop R (RING). Assuming that you'd want the Delay AFTER your amp's preamp, make FX Loop L your 4cm loop, and place FX Loop R Block wherever you want it after the FX Loop L Block. Use an "INSERT" cable (1/4" TRS to dual 1/4" TS) to wire your two loops. If you MUST have a STEREO delay, sell your HXS and get the full fat Helix Floor or Rack, which have FOUR FX loops. That way you use one for 4cm and two for stereo FX.

Glad you got it solved. As @SimonGugala said, FEEDBACK is not the same as a ground loop. Also, a high pitched screech is usually indicative of a USB ground loop, vs the 60hz hum of an electrical circuit ground loop. I was working to solve a problem you didn't have.

That's about right. You CREATE the presets with the Output block at BOOST level, regardless of if the preset needs a BOOST. You SAVE your presets with the Output Block Level set to 0db. All your presets will be approx the same level, and when you hit the BOOST on those presets that have it configured, it won't overload the PC+ input. Best thing to do with the BIG KNOB is to disable it by assigning it to some output other than multi or digital. Keep in mind that the Output Knob on the PC+ can be remotely controlled using MIDI CC#7 assigned to an Exp Pedal (requires MIDI cable along with L6 Link). That way, if you need to adjust your SPEAKER volume, it won't affect the Input level from Helix to PC+, just the ACTUAL volume.

The answer is to set up your presets' output levels with the Boost ON. Typically, a lead boost will be 3-5db. The difference with the boost OFF will not have a significant affect on your PC+ tone. Your other presets will not be noticeably lower either, they'll just be at the same level as your boosted preset in it's un-boosted state. IOW - when it's said to set the PC+ level light to yellow occasional red, that's to give you an idea where clipping begins and ENABLE you to safely set your boost.. Setting it to accommodate boosted tones will not suddenly cut the balls off all of your other presets. So how to level the other presets? When I boost for a lead, I want a CLEAN boost that has no other affect than to raise the output level. To accomplish this I use the Output Block Level for the boost. Just setup your initial preset level with the Output Block Level set AS THOUGH you were boosting it for a lead. Then return the level to 0db when you make your final save. Keep in mind that the final PERCEIVED level of any given preset depends on what all else is going on in the preset, NOT JUST that little flashing light on the PC+.

There is no Channel A/B. From Page 2 of the manual: ---------------------------------------------------- Preset System Specular Tempus has 32 presets organized within 4 pages, where each page contains 4 banks, and each bank contains 2 patches (A and B). --------------------------------------------------- That's only relevant if you are NOT using a MIDI Controller. When using a MIDI Controller, you call the 32 presets directly using MIDI PC#s 0-31. Refer to page 18 of the manual. Bank 1 Patch A = PC#0 Bank 1 Patch B = PC#1 Bank 2 Patch A = PC#2 Bank 2 Patch B = PC#3 etc, Bank 16 Patch A = PC#30 Bank 16 Patch B = PC#31 So, all you have to do is set Snapshot 1 (the default Snapshot that loads with the preset) IC#1 to the PC# you wish to load on the Tempus when the HXS preset loads. You can use the same IC#1 to load a different Tempus preset in Snapshots 2 and 3 if you so desire.

I assume that's what a SAVED preset on the tempus is, all settings saved in one place.

You select PCs with "Bank/Program". IIRC, the tempus only has 1 bank, so don't worry about the Bank settings. Just set the IC to send the desired PC#.

Get two of these, you're good to go. I've been using these for 5 years, very high quality. AmazonSmile: Monoprice 104770 10-Feet Premier Series XLR Female to 1/4-Inch TRS Male 16AWG Cable Black: Home Audio & Theater

Wrong on all counts. Unless you want your pure unmodified guitar signal going direct to the time-based FX - no HXS amp, no 6505, use it the way I described. If you WANT your pure unmodified guitar signal going direct to the time-based FX - No HXS amp, no 6505, then set up a Snapshot with BOTH the HXS amp AND the FX Loop L Block DISABLED. You won't be happy with the result. May I make a suggestion? Get the INSERT cable and TRY what I've presented, and stop trying to GUESS what MIGHT happen based on your previous configuration. Something might be causing a noise in your CURRENT configuration. It will PROBABLY be gone when it's configured correctly for what you're trying to do. The purpose of a DI is to send a BALANCED SIGNAL to a mixing board via XLR cable. It will NOT eliminate noise that occurs earlier in the signal chain. It will ONLY prevent noise that is picked up by the cable run between the HXS and the mixing board. The HXS already HAS balanced Outputs (MAIN OUTS). Using a BALANCED 1/4" cable will do the same thing as a DI, and won't have a noticeable affect unless you're more than 20ft away from the board. The only time you MIGHT want to use a DI with the HXS is if you're far from the board and want to use a cheaper XLR cable, in which case you can save yourself some money by getting a simple balanced 1/4" to XLR adaptor NO DI BOX NECESSARY. If you suspect that the "noise" you're hearing is in this part of the signal chain, then check the following: Are ALL of the devices in the signal chain (including the 6505) plugged in to a QUALITY EMI/RFI filtered power strip/surge suppressor? Is the power strip plugged into a SINGLE circuit (helps prevent ground loops)? Does that circuit also host appliances, fluorescents or rheostats? Are your signal cables between the HXS and the mixing board routed through a rat's nest of mixed unshielded cables and POWER cables? Have you got an Internet router less than 10 feet from ANYTHING in your system? Have you got a whole bunch of USB stuff plugged into the computer that the HXS is connected to (causing a USB ground loop)? AGAIN - wait till you get the INSERT cable before you continue to drive yourself crazy with all this other stuff!

The load box signal is LINE level. HIGH GAIN means something else entirely. The purpose of the first loop is to get the FX that you want in front of the PREAMP, whether it's the 6505 OR the HXS, as determined by the status of the FX LOOP L Block, keeping in mind that the HXS amp is OFF when the FX LOOP L Block is ON and vice versa. Correct overall routing and wiring is what prevents the feedback. As I stated previously, the only way you'll get added distortion after the time-based FX is if you porposely ADD a distortion effect, or if you totally hose the gain staging. Do a search for GAIN STAGING here and on the Internet if you're not sure what that means. @SimonGugala is talking about GROUND NOISE, which can sound like distortion, but is not the same as signal distortion caused by bad gain staging.

You're asking a question, then stating up front that you don't want the answer. The answer to the second question is no, the PD wants a LINE level signal. That's set in Global Settings>Ins/Outs. Whether you use a Helix FULL amp or PRE amp doesn't matter. The answer is the one you don't want to hear. The BIAS settings affect the Helix amp, not the external amp.

When the FX LOOP SEND L BLOCK is ON, the FX SEND on the 6505 returns the 6505 pre-amp signal, colored by the HXS FX placed before the FX LOOP L SEND BLOCK, to the HXS. Thus, the first loop provides TWO types of distortion - distortion from HXS distortion FX and distortion from the 6505 pre-amp. The HXS amp is turned OFF when the FX LOOP L BLOCK is turned ON. When FX LOOP L SEND BLOCK is OFF, the 6505 pre-amp is no longer in the circuit. The two types of distortion are now provided by the HXS distortion FX and the the HXS amp, which is turned ON when the FX LOOP L BLOCK is turned OFF. So, YES, there IS distortion, TWO TYPES, in the first FX Loop, regardless of whether the loop is activated or not. As this is an incomplete sentence, I'm not sure what you're asking, BUT..... If you're OK with the time-based FX being MONO, then you set it up as in example A. The time-based FX are placed between the pre-amp (HXS or 6505) and the power amp, BEFORE the load box. You now have a choice between taking the Load Box Line Out (if the load box has speaker emulation on the Line Out) directly to one side of the stereo power amp (you could bridge it for higher output), or you could take the Load Box Line Out back to the HXS via the HXS RIGHT FX RETURN, from where it could be further processed thru an IR (most common method - more choice) before being sent from the HXS MAIN OUTPUTS. As the signal is MONO, only the L/Mono Out is necessary to use the power amp in Bridged Mode or one side only. Use both Outputs for dual MONO using both sides of the amp. If you want the time-based FX in STEREO, then you must use example B, which places the STEREO time-based FX between the Load Box Line Out and the HXS STEREO MAIN OUTPUTS. You would likely want to use the Stereo Dual Cab or split the path and use two IRs to maintain the stereo signal. Either way, there is no ADDITIONAL distortion in the SECOND FX Loop unless: 1) You purposely add it 2) You totally hose the gain staging Two additional points - In Global Settings>Ins/Outs, RETURN TYPE needs to be set to RETURN. SEND/RETURN L needs to be set to INST, and SEND/RETURN R can be set to whichever works best. Start with LINE. Hope this clears it up for you.

Nobody knows what lurks in the minds of L6. And they'll never tell! BUT.....If you post these on Ideascale - individually, after doing a search to see if they've already been requested - maybe someone will vote for them!

Now you're just being silly. The HXS uses a combined L/R SEND. The Stereo Send is TRS. It can be used as as STEREO SEND to a STEREO effect, returning a STEREO signal to the Left and Right Returns, or it can be used as two discrete MONO FX Loops. The TIP is the LEFT FX LOOP SEND. The RING is the RIGHT FX LOOP SEND. I understand what you're trying to accomplish. Believe it or not, you are NOT the first to want to do this. I explained two entirely workable methods to accomplish your goal. You can return it, but whatever you replace it with, the same routing principles will apply. It's plumbing 101. Good Luck!

In the MONO example, the Load Box returns immediately in front of the HXS Output, no additional anything, then out the HXS Main Outs. For all that it matters, you could bridge the power amp and take the Load Box to it direct, skipping the final return to the HXS and HXS Outputs, as the time based FX are already there, between the 6505 pre-amp and power amp. A traditional MONO configuration. In the STEREO example, the Load Box returns immediately in front of the time based stereo effects, no additional distortion unless you choose to add it, then goes out the HXS stereo L/R main outputs to the stereo power amp. A studio style configuration.

Don't know what to tell you. My HXS is my "desktop" noodling device. It runs un-balanced (TS) cables out to a Behringer Xenyx502 mixer, then that runs out to a Sony 3pc bookshelf system (2x6 + 1x10 sub) 540 watts. It's loud and very clean. In either bypass mode the HXS is dead silent. Running it direct to the Sony (unbalanced simple INSERT cable bypassing the mixer) it's dead silent. My USB is direct connected to an ancient Gateway i5 laptop via the stock(?) cable with the ferrite barrel. If that's NOT the stock USB cable, then maybe getting a USB cable with integrated ferrite barrel might help? Otherwise, the problem would seem to be elsewhere in your system. What I CAN tell you is that the hiss in the recording is probably NOT a USB ground loop, as it is missing the high-frequency whine that's characteristic of that condition.

Computers. Can't live with 'em, can't live without 'em. Yes, graphics cards have been known to cause baffling problems. Good luck!

Still don't know what you're on about. I set up a preset with a split Y and a simple eq on both paths. One boosted low, one boosted high, so I could be sure what I was hearing. Path A panned hard left, Path B hard right. I have a guitar on Left Input, bass on Right Input. One EQ ON one OFF, both ON, both OFF, doesn't matter, I'm still hearing signal on both paths. Bypassing a Block doesn't block the signal, the signal simply passes through the block unaffected. There must be something else going on in your preset.

I'm pretty sure that no one can figure out what you're talking about. Maybe if you attach a sample preset and instructions for duplicating the problem?

In that post we were talking about your statement that the pre loop FX weren't working. I gave only the part of the wiring that was relevant to that. The full wiring is as stated in the previous posts. If you're wired correctly and using my preset, there are NO feedback loops. Are you somehow incorporating the Preamp Out jack on the 6505? I've only been able to locate the manual for the 6505+, so if you're not using that, then what?