cruisinon2

Can't help you much with the sound card issue, as I don't use mine that way... But if the unit is new, there should be a bunch of set lists containing all the factory pre-sets...99.97% of which are awful and unusable, but that's another discussion. User 1 is just one of these "set lists". All a set list is, is a group of 64 patches arranged in banks of 4. You can edit the existing ones, or start from scratch. With the HD edit software, you can back up individual set lists to your computer, or save a "bundle" which simply saves all the set lists at once. It's a good habit to get into in case you need to do a factory reset for some reason. You don't want to have to create all your patches all over again.

You can do exactly what is described here...but if all you intend to use the POD for is FX and you're not interested in the amp models, there are better multi-fx units out there for the money you're gonna spend.

Aside from duct tape or super glue, you're out of luck. Just gotta figure out how not to kick the knobs while you're playing. ;)

Agreed...glad you like them!

This right here is what many struggle with initially...getting past the "I shouldn't have to do this to get things to sound right" phase. Especially when the only real response is "Well, ya kinda do. Suck it up." ;) It's a rude awakening sometimes...

You mentioned the Warmoth neck...you could always try locking tuners if you don't have them already. In my experience, for a floating tremelo to return to pitch sharp is a bit odd...usually the strings will come back a little flat if you use the bar a lot. Makes me wonder if the strings aren't binding up in the nut slots. Can't think of anything else that would cause them to go sharp. Maybe lubricate the slots a little and see if that helps. Also, it might be a stupid question, but are the strings new? If they're not properly stretched, you don't have a prayer of staying in tune with a floating bridge.

Global EQ is really for fine-tuning your patches to the room you're in...that being the case, other people's settings aren't gonna help you much. Create your patches with global EQ off, then you can use it as needed, depending on the environment.

Pay no attention to the black helicopter that you'll see circling your neighborhood when you get home tonight...I'm sure it's nothing. ;)

Two things: 1) The average listener is musically illiterate. They know what they like, but that's it. They don't dissect music the way we do as musicians, and most of them couldn't distinguish the sound of an electric guitar from that of a burlap sack full of angry feral cats...never mind being able to tell a Les Paul from a Strat by ear alone. Now you could perform this little experiment with a room full of guitarists, and the results might be worth talking about from a philosophical standpoint...but at a gig? Forget it...you're trying to satisfy a desire in your audience that simply doesn't exist. There's a reason that beluga caviar is not found on the menu at Taco Bell....Friday night drunks are barely sentient as it is. They want Bud Lite, Green Day, and the cute blonde at the end of the bar (not necessarily in that order ;) ). 2) Many of us are attracted to the Variax in the first place because we're gigging musicians who are tired of lugging multiple guitars to gigs...so if I'm gonna drag around pieces of faux Variax snap-on furniture, and stop the show so my axe can look like one thing or another, I may as well just bring the genuine article and switch guitars. "Hold on, I have to switch to my Les Paul 'skin'. Where's the screwdriver?". No thanks.

Fair enough...after all, it seems everyone's smart TV's are talking to the Feds now. Isn't "safety" awesome? 'Murica! ;)

July 3rd, 2012 at 4:47 pm GMT. ;) Short, wide frets suck. As they wear, you will tend to have more intonation problems as compared to taller and narrower frets. With more "meat" for the strings to rub on, some frets will wear more to one side or the other, as opposed to wearing closer to the center of the fret. This will get worse if you've already done a grind and polish, as more material is removed from the center of the frets. Go stainless, and choose a fretwire that's just a smidge taller and narrower, and you'll never think about it again. Doesn't take long to adjust to a different size, and you might not even notice a significant difference anyway. And unless you keep a death-grip on the strings, you'll wear out before stainless frets will.

July 3rd, 2012 at 4:47 pm GMT. ;)

Or you can get a screwdriver, and invest approximately 4 seconds in lowering the pickups slightly, until the warbling goes away...it's a guitar, not a spy satellite.

It was right here...in the future. 😨

You realize that this is dangerously close to starting a debate about which speaker pole makes it sound the best, right? ;) Unless it's some ultra-cheap crap that looks like it'll fall over when Gramps blows out his birthday candles, they're all the same.😉

Lmao 😂

Because a speaker is either capable of generating certain frequencies or it isn't. Cutting out frequencies that are actually there is easy...that's what "electric guitar mode" does. The digital equivalent of throwing a wet blanket over the speaker, if you will. But you can't force a speaker to generate frequencies which are beyond its innate physical capabilites. It would be like trying to pump a 4K color image into a sh*tty old black and white TV from 1968, or putting racing slicks on a '72 Pinto and expecting to win the Indy 500...you can't exceed any device's maximum level of performance.

Me neither, but what I do know is that a speaker is either FRFR, or it isn't. No amount of digital fairy dust can induce FRFR performance from a speaker not physically capable of generating it. You can go the other way....like the Stagesource "electric guitar mode" which limits the response of a true FRFR speaker, thereby mimicking that of one with a narrower range, but you can't create what isn't there initially.

"ID10T error"...always a favorite. ;)

Good Lord, two happy GC customers in the same place, at the same time. Lol... This is one is the 4 Horsemen, isn't it? ;)

Front end = noisy mess. Avoid it like the plague. Into an FX return, or into a power amp and cabinet rig...much smoother sailing. That being said, expect to spend a significant amount of time learning to dial in tones you like. It's not a "plug and play" unit. But as far as any one choice being "better" than another...that's entirely subjective. The truth is, you should be able to get excellent results with anything you choose, provided that you put the time in.

Audience participation is awesome....;)

This isn't as obvious as it seems. Try it both ways...even though running a cab model into a real cabinet looks redundant on paper, you might like the way it sounds. Before I switched to an FRFR rig, this is exactly what I did. There are no hard and fast "rules" with this stuff. If it sounds good, it is good...even if the configuration doesn't "make sense" at first glance.

Problems opening Customtone files are arguably the best thing to ever happen to Customtone....

Same answer to the same question in the other thread....no FRFR, no usable acoustic tones. That's all she wrote.