bsd512

I started doing this a few firmware revisions ago for that reason. I've never had any freezes but knew it was a possibility since others have reported it. But also figured why not start the update from a factory defaults starting point - didn't seem like a bad idea, and you end up there after the update and 9+10 reset procedure anyway. So ... it couldn't hurt, and it might help. :)

Doh - I did find the patch, I thought 4D was the slot number. It's in Factory 2 slot 13D on the latest firmware (2.21). I still like mine better. :)

What the heck, I don't mind embarrassing myself. :) And I didn't see a 4D factory preset for this. So I just added a Red Squeeze to one of my existing patches. Not as good as your Amplifire 2 version, but I think the tone is a better starting point that your Helix version. https://soundcloud.com/user-22828532/x-79-love-vai/s-YUOlQ And please excuse my amateur playing and add to that, I didn't know this song until about 15 minutes ago. The feedback is from the Digitech Freqout pedal, I'm recording using headphones.

I totally agree with your opinion on them. Is it possible to post your 4D patch in order to see what you've already done? That may lead to better suggestions. And is it also possible what you had in the Amplifire 12 path and settings to get that tone - anything special? IR's or anything like that? I'm not familiar with it.

I don't really have a dog in this race, but your statement is not true. I believe it was the June '16 update if memory serves, that Line 6 responded to their customers and provided the additional granularity they asked for in the tuner which is now available in the tuner display. So they have not disregarded customer feedback - just the opposite. I understand the additional granularity appears to have had the unanticipated side affect of jumpiness. I would fully expect that to be addressed in due time, if one can go by history as a prediction of the future.

You can tune a piano, but you can't tuna fish. Helix can tuna pair of Sharc's, though. :)

Thanks! Yeah clean tones seem more forgiving. I'm referring to high gain tones in all of the above. I know I still have a lot to learn and my tone(s) continue to elvove. I listened to something I made about a year ago and cringed. I wonder if I'll do the same thing next year at this time? :)

Not sure about a separate device, but the old Bose QC15's I had a switch on the plug that goes into the headphone ear can to convert it from low impedance to high impedance. Not sure what that impedance actually is - just says "LO" on one side and "HI" on the other. I know it's not 300, though, because I had to turn up the volume knob a spec for the Sennheiser HD 600's, but not much - maybe it's 200 or 250? Maybe that's one of the reasons it sounded decent (if not frequency accurate) with the Helix. I'd use the "LO" setting on iPhone, etc. "HI" setting on Helix.

I somehow missed DI's preference for headphones, though I've tried a number of others from lower-budget flat studio phones to even (not cheap) but consumer Bose QC 15's. Of all the ones I tried, I liked the Bose QC 15's, I thought those sounded the best, very little or no "fizz" that people complain about, and they just sound GOOD. Other's I've tried have been Sony MDR-7506, Sony MDRV6 (I think that's Sony's replacement for the MDR-7506 - or vice versa), the higher end Sony MDR7520. The MDR7520 was the best but still lacking and I always went back to the Bose QC15's as they just sounded warmer and way more pleasing. And the other phones sounded dry and while not horrible, very fizzy and not comfortable to listen to for any length of time. Well, based on the above quoted posted from DI, I took a chance and splurged on a set of DI's Sennheiser HD 600's. The arrived today. I don't know if it's that the Sennheisers are open back vs all the others being closed, or some technological witchcraft in the Sennheisers but these are awesome headphones. I've been using them all day and they way more accurately represent the highs and lows than my prior go-to Bose's, and are extremely comfortable and pleasing to listen to. What I always found with the Bose was that I'd dial in my sound using those, get the high's just right, record, then play in my good car stereo, and the result would be much darker than what the headphones represented. So to get a good sound, I'd have to EQ to the point where the Bose's were too bright and even shrill, and then that would usually translate pretty well to my car stereo. When I went back to my presets using the Sennheisers instead, sure enough, they sounded dark - just like in my (very nice) car stereo, while through the Bose the sound was as perfect as I could get when playing through those, but not accurate in my car. While I did reset my EQ based on the Sennheisers and fixed up the "dark" problem, I haven't had a chance to test in my car, but the result sounds good through my monitors and I'm optimistic. Sorry for rambling on, but wanted to convey my experience with some different headphones and those Sennheiser HD 600's are extremely comfortable, sound very accurate, and not fizzy, based on my prior experience of using the above mentioned headphones. Based on what they did for me, I consider them well worth the price and will NOT be sending them back.

For me? Trial and error. Mostly error. :) I'm just a hobby amateur guitarist and even more of an amateur at studio stuff. The more I learn about it, the more I know I don't know, and realize one could spend a lifetime at mixing, eq'ing, somehow zoning each instrument for its own frequency range when they clearly overlap, etc, and still have more to learn. I think it's black magic and witchcraft. :) I'll often record something I think sounds decent, then play it through my car stereo and it's way to bass or shrill, or the levels on one of the instruments is way too high while others are barely audible, yet it sounded fine to me through decent quality studio monitors. Very mysterious! How the pros do it and get it right considering all the different play-back gear they accommodate will likely be one of those great mysteries that will follow me to my grave. :)

Like FlyingsCool said, it sucks that happened. That said, this is the first I've seen of anything like this reported on this forum - not sure about others. No matter how well made a unit like the Helix (or Fractal or Kemper or even much cheaper) is, they are mechanical devices with a lot of individual components that are made by manufacturers all over the world - capacitors, inductors, ASICs, resistors, printed circuit boards, relays, switches, connectors, cables, etc, etc. Not to mention the cables that connect the Helix to other out-board devices - a cable failure there due to a short circuit within the external cable and shorts out one of the output jacks could ultimately be the culprit. One thing for sure - it is 100% guaranteed that a mechanical device WILL fail at some point. It's unfortunate that it happened to your unit - or external cables that lead to the failure through cascade - not sure how long you've owned it or the service hours on it, but it sounds like it had an early demise. That's not necessarily an indictment of the build quality or Line 6. The parts list in the Helix likely numbers in the 1000's. With each component the probability of failure goes up, even if the the probability of any one part is extraordinarily low. And then considering what the Helix is connected to and that cabling - narrowing down the exact cause is not necessarily easy. As many others have said, having a backup is essential for a live - real-time application where loss of the unit has large economic impact. There's a reason why life-support systems, the stock-market, aircraft, and other systems have not just one but multiple redundant systems. Even under the super-strict and super-tested procedures those systems must adhere to, they are still prone to failure and require backup systems. Playing for an audience won't cost lives, but definitely can cost economically and affect your reputation. Given that, I'd think the money spent on a backup system would be money well-spent. There's just no getting around that a failure WILL occur, eventually. It's not a matter of IF.

Correct in this case. But apostrophes are appropriate for abbreviations when periods are involved - i.e., "How many M.D.'s does it take to screw in a light bulb?" :) In this case the 's denotes plural as opposed to possession. And I'm sure I have some form of grammar or misspelling error in the above, otherwise the Skitt's Law would be violated. :) Skitt’s Law: Expressed as "any post correcting an error in another post will contain at least one error itself" or "the likelihood of an error in a post is directly proportional to the embarrassment it will cause the poster." :)

The Matchless, Litigator, Archon get tons of love for good reason, and I love those amps. And the new Badonk is great, I've always loved the ENGL Fireball since I first got my Helix. The L4 2204 Mod is pretty great, too, and gets it's share of props. But lately I've been trying out a bunch of other amps. I LOVE the HiWatt!!! So if the question is which is underrated - I don't hear too much about that amp, so that one is my vote. :) The Vox's are pretty fantastic too. I guess when it comes down to it, there's not an amp in the Helix that I DON'T like. It would literally take months to really go through them all and set them up for different situations. They're all fantastic! :)

Be sure and vote these existing submissions up too: https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/Expansion-IR-cabs-User/830991-23508 https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/256-IR-slot-memory/824324-23508 https://line6.ideascale.com/a/dtd/More-space-for-IRs/809273-23508

For the Love of God ... that thing is gorgeous! See what I did there? :)

I have a pair of L3t's that I used to make most of my patches and are a relatively permanent fixture in my play room and provide a superbly awesome sound plus a fantastically immersive stereo field. I couldn't be happier with them. But for a more lightweight, yet economical solution for when I want to grab and go to a practice or just jam with some friends, I bought a single Alto TS212. My patches through it, as compared to the L3t's I made them on, they sounded way more bassy and muddy. This is not a dig against the Alto - I just didn't make my patches for that speaker. My quick solution was to make a global EQ setting to adjust for the bassy'ness and make it sound as closely as I could to the L3t's. So when I use it, I just enable that global EQ, and when I get back home with my L3t's, I just disable the EQ. That works fine, but does nothing for the loss of the awesomeness of the immersive stereo field I get from having a pair of L3t's versus a single mono output. :)

If something like this were implemented - a specific "save/confirm" might work. But just moving to another block to do the save would not - any time I've accidentally changed a block using the joystick and accidentally rotating it a little at the same time has been while I am rapidly moving across blocks to get to the block that I want to want change or look at. In that case, slightly rotating the joystick on an intervening block would not prevent that accident because I've already moved to the next block in the chain before I can react and "cancel" the change. So a positive "confirm" button might work, but not the second option of "save when you move away from the block". Just my opinion of course. Since I've owned the Helix for over a year now, though, I can't even remember the last time I've made this mistake. Your fingers get used to the light touch needed and it just doesn't remain a problem for very long. So while I got bitten by this a couple of times early on, it's not a problem for me now. Your fingers and brain will adapt. That's been my experience anyway.

Great idea. I haven't tried it yet, but maybe you could get the accent by setting the tremolo to a whole note, then add a simple delay after that set at 1/4 note. Adjust feedback and mix to taste and I think that would give you an accented first note with subsequent notes trailing off until the next whole note. :)

Perfect!

Or - elaborating slightly on zooey's post above - while on a snapshot in recall mode, press again to go back to the patch's saved setting. Press another time to go back to the modified (but not yet saved setting). That would have the added benefit of quickly comparing snapshot changes by flipping back and forth between them. And if you accidentally press it twice, just press it a third time to get back to where you were. That sounds really good to me.

I don't think the "recalling the whole patch" part is needed - because you can already to that by just reloading the patch. Otherwise, sounds fine to me.

That is a kick-a$$ photo! I'd love to have a hi-res of that.

First world problems. One time, when our ISP was replacing copper with optical fiber, my teenager had to go almost a whole day without wifi. Agony. Pure agony.

Thanks! It's a Schecter Hellraiser Hybrid Solo-ii. It's a very nice guitar, plays great, I love it. http://www.schecterguitars.com/guitars/hellraiser-hybrid-solo-ii-detail Ha - my captive audience. :) Since I had an Amplifi 150 before the Helix I knew pretty much what to expect. And to my surprise, I pulled up the Amplifi app and all the tones I'd made for the '150 were still out there, just had to select one and go. Still makes me appreciate how incredible the Helix is, though. While the Amplifi is a perfectly fine product and will be fine for this use case I'm using it for now, it's lightyears behind the Helix in terms of how it sounds. Not saying it's bad, it's not. I'm saying the Helix is *that* good. :)

I went with the Amplifi TT. Got it today - form-factor is just about exactly what I was looking for, price was right, tone and capabilities perfectly acceptable for my "living room guitar fix" purposes. :) The only thing I wish it did was be an actual Helix inside and run my patches. It'll be fine until such a day as Line 6 releases a Helix TT, and then I'll obviously buy one of those. :)