SeaRefractor

USB-C to USB-B works just fine.

When you register your amplifier with Line 6 and have your Line 6 account, you can click on your profile Icon. I then go to Purchase History and I see my Cubase LE activation code. If you still don't see it, contact Line 6 support. https://line6.com/support/tickets/ This forum isn't the method to create a support ticket but to chat with other owners like myself.

The mobile app does have a way to go. But the PC app is much better. Could it also be improved, oh yeah it could. However, it's better than the apps I used for my Fender modeler that I dropped after Windows 10 wouldn't support their app and the only mobile support was a 3rd party app called Remuda. Mustang III V2.. Came to Line 6 after that and have been very happy with the Spider V series. Sadly all the amplifier makers do just "enough" for the software, never to that extra level of elegance that would place it over the top. However, I suspect marketing research shows that good enough versus elegant doesn't yield that much on development returns. Alas...

I've not had this problem. Only times I've reset my amplifier is between the larger upgrades (2.00 for example to get an opportunity to listen to the new presets). If you have to do this frequently, I'd get in touch with Line 6 support. https://line6.com/support/tickets/ The forum isn't a method to start the support process other than interacting with other Line 6 owners, like myself.

@NBell really appreciate the additional information. Good to know regarding the TBP06 and TBP12. Thanks for the excellent support.

No problems here, updated 2 G10T's I had on hand. 1st, you have to update the Spider V to 2.02 and let it reboot prior to attempting to update the G10T to 1.05. Also requires the latest Spider Update application, be sure that you updated that as well.

Classic mode has all of the frequencies through the primary driver vs the horn taking the high frequencies in FRFR mode. I'd look at the face of the amp closely to see if anything may have gotten between the protective grill cloth and the driver. If of a certain size, it may not resonate or buzz except when the driver is also taking on the high frequency range as well. Holding a flashlight at an angle to the cloth might help to locate. I had a similar problem after playing an outdoor event and a few pine needles had become logged into the grill cloth. Removing those fixed the bug. The other test is to use headphones. If there's no buzz with the headphone, then it's driver related. If the buzz is in the headphones, then it's DSP related. If you don't see anything when checking with a flashlight, contact Line 6 for their warranty support. I do not recommend attempting to remove the grill cloth, there's not a non-destructive or non-warranty voiding method to accomplish that. https://line6.com/warranty/

Glad this solved the update for you. I'll have to mess with the FX nobs and see if I'm having this problem and then try the approach if it's an issue. I'd been primarily adjusting from the Spider Remote and USB cable. I suspect we'll see a 2.01 in the future that works to resolve the occasional hang issue post upgrade.

Welcome to the world of mobile devices, everyone has a different result when it comes to Android. Don't get me wrong, I have a OP 7 Pro and previously a Samsung S9. I've always ended up using a PC to update my amp. First make sure the Spider Remote application is up to date, I'm amazed how many phone users don't regularly update their phone and applications. I currently have version 2.0.0 build 128. Just checking now, the 2.0.0 build 128 version of the app works for all functions for me except for the Device Flash. I'm running the Android 10 open beta at this time, so it's possible there was enough changes to the Android OS to allow Spider Remote to work for 95% of the features but fail for flash. If you have access to a computer, I'd recommend that for your flash updates for now. I use my phone along with a supposedly Kevlar braided cable for durability to do any adjustments pre-gig. The cool thing? I really don't have adjust as much with the 2.00 firmware and the classic speaker setup. Rest I do using my FBV 3 during the performance.

Using the Apple provided cord or a third party cord? May be possible that if using a third-party that it's simply providing the power and not the data connections to the phone. What happens when you connect your phone using the same data connection to a computer? Are you able to backup your phones data to iTunes? If that works and you still have problems, I'd recommend contacting Line 6 support rather than just this forum. https://line6.com/support/tickets/

Since the Spider V series of amps does not have FX return inputs on the amplifier, I'm not sure that this is a configuration that can work. I'd tried to think of a method where you could connect the headphone output to the looper pedal and have the return to the AUX connection, but using a splitter with headphone output so you can also hear it would likely not work. The other method is tech heavy in that you send the USB output to a PC/Mac that is running a software capable of providing the looper functionality, but then you don't use the looper pedal. 1. Sell the looper pedal and Spider V 30 and upgrade to a FBV 3 and Spider V 60 (or higher) combo. The V 60 or higher models have a looper built-in that is controlled by either the button on the front of the amp or the Function 1 button on the FBV 3 controller. Really nice setup, I have the V 120 with FBV 3 and am quite happy. 2. Sell the Spider V 30 and pickup an amplifier that has FX return to allow you to use that external looper pedal. This is where the cost goes up if you still want full modeling capabilities. Firehawk 1500 perhaps? https://line6.com/firehawk/firehawk-1500

If you cannot get it going you can also submit a support ticket with Line 6 https://line6.com/support/tickets/

Factory reset will restore all the original presets but also delete any custom ones you may have created. Be sure to backup any you wish to keep with Spider Remote. As you say, you've performed the factory reset function as listed below but did not have the patches you expected. If the reset method is not working as expected, I'd contact Spider support: https://line6.com/support/tickets/ The RESET method you had tried as documented on this site. Spider V 20: Hold down all three FX buttons, then press and release 'save' while the amp is turned on.

Just imagine if it were conducted again with the MKII 2.00 Firmware.

Line 6 Monkey was used for the earlier series of amplifiers and foot controllers. For the Spider V and V MKII it's the line 6 updater on a PC/MAC and Spider Remote on the Android. For the latest 2.00 firmware, you'll need to upgrade from Line 6 updater until the Spider Remote recognizes and pushes the 2.00 firmware from "Settings | Updates | Device Flash". Which won't work if the Android device doesn't see the amplifier. What model of Samsung? Both my Galaxy S9 and my Galaxy Tab S3 worked just fine. I did use the bundled USB C to USB adapter that came with those devices for success. Didn't have the same success with some OTG adapters, so YMMV when you don't use the bundled adapters.

You can always add a Bluetooth streamer as a plug in item to the AUX port. https://www.amazon.com/Anker-Soundsync-Bluetooth-Connection-Headphones/dp/B07H5C2BQX this one for example.

Just to state, perhaps I was considering myself as one of the "experts" in adjustments as I've had fantastic results and always been very happy. The rest of those gigging with me have also agreed. Do have to say that the excellent video tutorials that were created on PEQ made a significant improvement to my understanding on how to adjust those for best results. Line 6's update to the Spider V with the 2.00 firmware cannot be understated, it's quite amazing! The fact that the earlier V's can be upgraded for the same feature set as the new MKII has turned me into a serious long term Line 6 customer. Way to go!

From "my opinion" the perspective of the new MKII 2.00 firmware, which can be added to the older Spider V models as a free upgrade that makes the new amp release a cosmetic change, it's a pretty big change. Yes, the presets were the problem with the Spider V through versions of 1.05 of the firmware. You were always stuck with the full FRFR configuration and one had to use the parametric EQ (PEQ) to try and adjust for it and it had to be tweeked at every venue. This is part of the reason it wasn't well received, not as consistent in tonal response from venue to venue or from practice to gig. Those that became expert in handling the changes from one location to the next always had excellent results. Playing the precanned presets however resulted in frustration for many in gigging if not adjusted in any way. The greatest change with the firmware upgrade is the new "classic" speaker mode, meaning the high frequency horn is not used for a full FRFR and makes it just the primary driver (12" on my 120) and gives you the traditional tone players may prefer. It's easy enough for the player to change a preset or create their own that also uses the FRFR configuration which is fantastic when one want's to use an acoustic guitar with all of it's range of tone. Classic mode also means that the primary driver, which isn't as narrowly focused as the horn, has greater flexibility in consistent tone from venue to venue without having to tweek it much before hand. That right there is one of the different factors between a Katana and a Spider V with the 2.00 firmware or a MKII amp. The Katana is permanently "stuck" in classic mode as there is no FRFR configuration. From that perspective, the ability to now use "classic", the Spider V with 2.00 firmware or MKII is also able to provide a "like" tone in that you are not stuck with FRFR. A Spider V 120 or Spider V 120 MKII with it's 12" driver (besides the FRFR horn) is a close match to the Katana 100 with it's 12" driver in my opinion. Chad Garber had several head to head video's that showed the Spider V favorably, and this is before the 2.00 firmware and MKII release. It's only much better since. It would be interesting if Chad goes back and does a repeat with the 2.00 firmware. https://www.youtube.com/user/chadgarber

Now with the "classic" speaker selection, the use of just the primary driver will give a more traditional tone to those thrown by the separate high frequency driver in the FRFR design. Granted, the 8" in the V 30 isn't a fair comparison for the entire line up, but it would be interesting for some parties that didn't rate the prior Spider V "MK I" well to review the "MK II" and it's classic settings. The difficulty for them to mike up the speaker will have been greatly reduced versus the FRFR. Those of us that want the full range for acoustic can still select the FRFR setting, of course I go straight from the USB to my DAW so I don't experience the frustration of an external microphone.

It's not Line 6's fault. EMSIsoft, I don't see this one on the independent comprehensive anti-virus tests. This independent lab tests and retests every month. I'd recommend you consider choosing one of the top ranking versions from there https://www.av-test.org/en/.

Since the download only shows up when you select WIndows 10, I suspect that it requires the newer OS.

Glenn, That you? Troll on micktrolla https://youtu.be/8bEvjjNqFsI

Pretty much the Relay G10 Stomp was released to address the power connection and uses a setup like your other pedals. While I have the Relay G10, it would be great if a discount the cost of the transmitter was provided to customers to receive the new base since the G10 transmitter is the same in all the models of that series. Wouldn't mind sending in my older G10 receiver to receive this trade in discount. The other reason for the G10S is that you can manually set the channel instead of it being auto. This way if you have a couple G10S users in the same gig, you just make sure you don't use the same channel and you are all set. No need to worry about who's relay was turned on first and trying to keep the auto-channel feature straight.

It's possible! Although I do see that it has a slightly different firmware train than the larger Spider V amps. Give it some time. If it doesn't get updated and you really want the newer firmware/feature set, you should be able to score a used V 30, especially if someone isn't paying attention and sells their V 30 for a V 30 MKII. Personally, I'd save up for a used V 60, so you can take advantage of the Relay G10T, the liberation from a cable even in a practice setting is difficult to describe, but incredible.

This on a thread where the software has already been released for a newer model and fortunately our existing hardware is able to be upgrade to that version for free. As it's a new release, I imagine that continued development will continue along with Idealscale so that we continue to garner value from our existing hardware for another 2 years or perhaps longer. Coming from other product lines, including the Fender Mustang V2, and this is practically unheard of. The cabinet of my V 120 is nice and solid and quite rugged, transported it a lot loose in a truck and it's holding up very well. Everyone's entitled to their opinion, thanks for sharing yours. Hope you find that amp that you are looking for. Perhaps it'll eventually be a Line 6 product.