Charlie_Watt

Replacing the screws isn't a big deal. For a few pennies per screw you can have decent ones that won't give you problems.

Sure you can do that. All of my acoustic patches have the amp bypassed. That way you can use FX models with no amp model. The options are patch specific.

I have never experienced this problem. I use a PA speaker with my HD500x and it sounds very good. I use Studio Direct output mode only.

Remove one that is not stripped and take it with you to a good hardware store that has metric setscrews. Relieve the string tension before moving those screws and I would replace them all because the originals are junk and the tools that come with the JTV are garbage.

Real studio monitors will blow away computer speakers.

I have heard this but it just doesn't make sense to me.

If you owned a 500 you connect the 500X exactly the same. There is no difference here. There are switches to change the output gain from guitar levels to line levels. Make sure you have the switch in the correct position for the kind of input you are going into.

The "Model Selector" is just a pot that feeds an A/D. There is a mechanical detent for each model bank position. If it's misadjusted it will pick up the wrong model bank. I don't know if there is a calibration for this. There used to be for the old original Variax. You may have a bad model selector pot.

Each of the Graphtech piezo's has two wires. Signal and Ground. This is a good thing! Much better than the LR Baggs where they rely on grounding through the bridge. I recommend connecting all of the ground wires together on the PCB. That is what I did on my Variax 500 and it has been solid. You will probably have to turn down the string volumes in Workbench after you make the swap. The Graphtech piezo pickups are pretty hot and you may get clipping if you don't back down the volumes.

IMO the 5 way switch on the JTV69 is far superior to the toggle on the 59. I have not heard of anyone having trouble with it and it's just like the 5 way on a regular Strat. Lots of folks here have complained of problems with the 3 way toggle switch.

I would really love to hear an explanation from Line6 or anyone that knows - why re-flashing more than once makes a difference. I work on embedded FW and I have never worked on a product that did not either work or not work when it came to reflashing. The re-flash process should be covered by error checking that would not allow the process to complete if any errors were encountered. Every post here says try re-flashing when somebody has a problem. Makes zero sense to me.

It's the same as the 500 - no difference in setup for outputs.

Audacity - latest version works fine for me with my HD500X. I just selected HD500 for the input device and it records just fine.

Calibrate it.

Try the other inputs.

I would bet that it's the switch rather than the pickup.

I did not mean to intimidate anyone but I am afraid that many folks do not have the necessary skills to pull this off successfully. Those that do should have no problems if they take their time.

The Buzzing is probably a ground loop through the USB. Is it quiet with the USB disconnected? I had this when I was using a single ended output. It went away when I started using the Balanced XLR outputs. The major problem for me was the connection to my laptop.

The Mags go through a relay and they should work with no battery in the JTV. You should be able to trace it and fix it.

I used a single edge blade and very carefully cut the insulation enough to be able to remove it with my finger nails. I did not have any tool that would strip that stuff cleanly. Nice thing about tefflon insulation is that it won't melt when you solder the wires. I should have taken a pic of my completed bridge before I reinstalled it. The 500 used a flex circuit between the bridge and the PC board. I soldered all of the wires to the flex circuit right under the bridge.

The ones I used on my 500 were two wires per piezo and the insulation was pretty thick given how small the wires were. It was a tight fit to get the two wires through the hole where the original single wire went. I had to slightly enlarge the hole in the flex circuit that went to the fixed bridge on that puppy. There was no place to connect the ground wires so I had to scrape the insulation layer off to get to the copper. The result was great but I was not all that sure while I was cutting and working with those wires.

You can create a minimal patch and save it to your PC. Then you can load it to any location you want to clear out.

I do not agree that the Graphtech leads are "very soft and flexible".

Some players modifiy their guitars to make neck removal easier by using machine screw inserts. Then they remove the neck whenever they travel on an airplane. I would caution anyone to be careful about buying a JTV and taking it out of the country. If you have any problems with it you will have trouble getting it serviced! At least make sure you test it out before leaving the country with it. Make sure that the USB interface works and that you have the latest FW on it and that everything works. If you are a "Fender Guy" I would get the 69 or 69S. I have the 69S and I am very happy with the build quality. No bridge problems or neck problems on mine.

Yup. A 12 pack for every slip. :(