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Everything posted by PierM

  1. Ah ok. Yes, Helix has a full bidirectional MIDI and Midi Clock, over USB.
  2. Could you elaborate a bit more? Hard to understand what you are asking for...
  3. None of the PCs has slots to plug the casters. I guess you could easily mount something like these instead of the rubber feets, but then you'd probably lose the built in tilt feature;
  4. I believe it's a mix of both, pot value much higher than required, and the way the HX Stomp is sensing control voltage from that TRS, instead the expected TS. That EXP on the back is actually two TS ports (one feeding back to sleeve, and the other to the ring), not a single TRS pedal port. Not even sure how's possible you get it working without the 0/100/0 issue, but yeah, isnt really a ideal setup. Anyway, your pedal has nothing wrong. Is L6 that went completely out of standards with exp pedals. You could easily mod it with a different pot and wiring TS, but this would make it not compatible with other pedals.
  5. Weird question, as it's clearly visible in the official shots... but yeah, it has a small volute. Something like a mid 70 Gibson.
  6. I do often use a HXStomp with a Zoia in the FXLoop, and that in the Fxloop of a helix rack. Im very sensible to latency, but I cant feel anything wrong with that setup, despite numbers on paper. Sometimes it's just overthinking. :)
  7. Unfortunately there is not a dedicated erase command for the Looper. If you loop has been stopped, as soon as you press rec again, previous one is gone and new is being recorded. It's a bummer, but it is what it is. Never tried that myself as I don't use that looper, but maybe you can program a sequence of CCs to simulate a Stop/Rec/Play/Stop. Not sure if this make sense tho, since - as said above - as soon as you press record after a loop stop, it's starting with a new loop anyway. As for the output volume of the loop, you could simply assign the Exp pedal to control the Playback parameter of the looper block. There is not a reserved CC for that, so you have to assign it within the block. I guess you could then save that looper block with the exp assignment as fav.
  8. The stomp wont accept a TRS exp pedal without doing weird things. The TRS it's expecting two separate circuits, that you can set in the globals as exp pedals or footswitches. The dedicated Mission SP1-L6H has a TRS cable because the pedal has a toe footswitch, so its two circuits. Just wondering how are you actually connecting that TRS from the pedal, to the TRS on the Stomp...could be you are hitting 100% way before the end of the pot travel.
  9. I do use a USB fixed cable than runs underneath my pedalboard, which has an angled USB B plug to prevent kicking damages. The other side of the cable (USB A) does pop from the other side of the board, ready to be used when needed (when not in use it's just velcroed on the side). Means you plug it once and forget.
  10. There are no "tricks" to do what you are asking. You can't bypass a cab within an Amp+Cab block, and you can't switch between Amp+Cab to the same Amp, without cab, on the fly. You can ask this on ideascale, but honestly I wouldn't hold my breath on this to be implemented.
  11. If it's happening only with that guitar try lowering the pickups to get more clearance between pup poles and strings. I do have the same guitar (actually I have 3 with the same pups), and never had an issue like that.
  12. Actually it was a GREAT price, considering the previous owner. But importing this beast to Italy, would cost +~45% on top of that money.
  13. I had the luck to play a Synthaxe back in late '80, and was just a piece of alien gear. Stiff strings and very odd feeling at first, primarily because you have to forget about picking and use the fretboard more like a keyboard (also you have to learn new techniques for the right hand which needs some time).... but the responsiveness was just amazing. I honestly don't remember any latency or warble, or glitches. You could also set the instrument in keyboard mode, so you had to go into chord position on the fretboard, then play that chord through the little keyboard controller onboard, which was also sending velocity and/or expression. Just mind blowing. I wish I bought that stuff when I had the chance to. (it was for sale in north Italy, and pre-owned by the italian singer and great guitar player, Pino Daniele) I can't believe nobody did a replica of this instrument. I would buy it instantly (for the right price).
  14. The right cable for EU it's a Type F (CEE 7/4) - IEC 60320 C13.
  15. There is only one thing better than L6 forums; The Helix Native license agreement...which nobody never really seen. We do keep passing down the tale, from one generation to another. :D
  16. As far as I know and learned over here, that Native license isn't going anywhere once you sold your Helix hardware. So in theory you don't have to do anything. That Native will should still works. ...unless they changed the rules.
  17. Usually Line 6 (as many others) does pair its pedals with a power supply which has more mA than really needed (I guess mostly to optimize the production), so I think 300mA is indeed the minimum requirement for the pedal to work properly. The fact they do stamp 500mA on the back of the pedal, doesnt mean it wont work with 300mA. It's just to match the max current draw offered to the stock PS. I've seen the the same with many other L6 pedals and modelers. It's then important that those mA are solid and clean, and instantly available at boot. ;)
  18. Yep, just forget of the legacy G10T first version. Has been neutralized by the firmware and there is nothing you can do. I do have the G10TII and still works pretty good tho. Average 6hrs with a full charge. Just DO NOT BUY a G10S receiver, as it sucks with WIFI. Really, it's garbage. I don't know how's possible the basic and cheaper version, without the Channel knob (so I guess fully automatic), never gave me a single problem with connection stability, while the G10S is glitchy in any channel. Ok I do have a busy wifi situation, but still the basic receiver works perfectly.
  19. Get off my lawn!
  20. Be sure to set hardware compatibility to Helix Floor/Rack if you want to simulate the same DSP availability as the Helix hardware. If you don't care to do that, and you do not plan to move presets from Native to hardware, you can just turn off this function, and get extra power beyond DSP limits.
  21. Helix Control doesnt work without a Helix Rack.
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