phil_m

Adapt or die, man...

He's measuring the capacitance of the G10 transmitter itself, but there's also the "Cable-Tone" stuff built into the receiver that is supposed to be the equivalent of 10' of cable. On the other Line 6 wireless stuff, that can be bypassed, but on the G10, the only way to bypass it is to use the XLR out.

I can't say I've read of that many dropout complaints with the G10, but make sure you're plugging the transmitter into the base for 15 seconds or so before using it so it can scan and find the best available channel.

This issue was resolved with the 2.54 firmware that was released yesterday.

You don't need drivers for Macs as the Helix is a class compliant USB Audio/MIDI device. As far the updates, you'll want to download and install the latest HX Edit installation package. That will give you both HX Edit and Line 6 Updater. Run Line 6 Updater with the Helix attached via USB and it will prompt you to install the latest firmware update. 2.54 is the latest version. Make sure you don't have HX Edit running at the same time as the Updater.

Your tone stack controls with the 4CM. If they're not, it means you're bypassing your amp's preamp somehow. That usually means you have the the FX Loop block turned off.

As far your second point, this is usually a symptom of not having the FX Loop block in your signal chain. If you have you cables connected for the 4CM, but don't have the FX Loop block in your chain, you're bypassing your amp's preamp and going straight into its effects return. That why your amp's volume no longer works (the volume control for your amp is in the preamp).

From what you're describing, it sounds like it could be a hardware issue... I'd see about getting a replacement through the retailer.

Have you tried do a factory reset? Hold footswitches 9 & 10 while powering up, and it will reset everything.

I think I understand now... You need to assign the preamp block to the same switch that you have the FX Loop assigned to, and you need to have it so that when one is turned on the other is turned off. Then when you bypass the FX Loop, the preamp will turn on and you'll be going straight into your amps effects return. The volumes may be very different, so you'll have to adjust the levels in the preamp block to get them where you want them.

Looks the new 2.54 firmware that was just released addresses this issue: H E L I X 2.54 Release Notes Bug Fixes - Pop noise can occur when exiting Tuner in four cable method setup with FX loop block engaged and audio playing upon entering and exiting Tuner -FIXED -In rare cases, Helix AES clock/audio/SPDIF can glitch and/or drop every 40-60 mins -FIXED - other bug fixes and improvements

How do you have the cables between the HX Effects and your amp? I'm confused as to what you're saying here, exactly. I'm not sure what you mean by "selecting this block doesn’t change the channel"...

As I said earlier, it's not my call... I'm not a Line 6 employee. I'm an Expert User here, that's it. The project managers for the various decide what new features should be added and such. I do like the idea of having 6 snapshots, but I think it might not be all that easy. It would change the way some of the navigation and UI works. It also means a change to the underlying preset architecture, as every preset now only has 4 snapshots. I imagine that adding more data to each preset in the way of additional snapshot would increase the switching gap when going from one preset to another.

That's kind of weird. I don't believe they ever made them in different colors. I wonder if it just faded from exposure to UV or something like that?

All the reset options are published in the KnowledgeBase:

Yes, the "known problem" is you haven't inserted an FX Loop block in your signal chain. You have to do that, otherwise you're bypassing your amp's preamp.

It sounds like you're probably bypassing your amp's preamp. In order for the 4 cable method to work with the HX Effects, you have to inserts an FX Loop block in its signal chain. It's different than the M13, in case that's what you were coming from.

You can't have the tap tempo switch change between fast and slow, but you can assign the fast and slow speeds to be a note value and in turn have them synced to the tempo you tap in. With rotaries, though, I've found that having the the speed synced to tempo isn't always desirable. I like setting the slow and fast speeds to a fixed speed and using a footswitch to switch between them. To do that on the unit, just push down and hold the knob under the speed parameter to go to the Controller Assign screen. Then push down Knob 6 for "Learn Controller", and then just hit the footswitch you want to assign the Speed parameter to. That's all you have to do. That footswitch will now toggle between the fast and slow speeds.

My understanding is that they work with an outside consultant to set the default model values, and from what I can tell, that involves the DEP values. It doesn't look most of them stray that far from 5.0 though. I think it's a relatively safe assumption that 5.0 is the actual value of the amp they modeled. Things like tube bias, though, aren't like a hardwired thing. It's possible that some of the amps in their collection have been biased to values that are slightly different than the factory values. For some vintage amps, "factory values" might not even be a thing.

No one responding in this thread has any direct say as to what new features are added. You should put any feature requests up on IdeaScale: https://line6.ideascale.com/ Also, fwiw, you can already change the ring color for snapshot switches. It's explained on pages 26 and 27 of the manual.

Sometime this Spring... Today is the first full day of Spring, for the record. :-)

That is the correct behavior. HX Edit only acts as a preset librarian and IR loader for the HX Effects at this time. Full editor functionality will be coming soon(ish).

The Tap and the switch to the left of it.

Try powering up while pressing down the two switches in the lower right corner if you haven't.

Try holding the right arrow button (>) while powering up. That should put it into update mode, and then you should be able send the new firmware.