datacommando

Don’t worry - he was cross posting the same issue here: User error?

Happy to know you have managed to get back up and running. This should not directly be part of the loss of audio signal in and out that you experienced, but something to consider, which I spotted in your reply - Helix connected to a hub. Line 6 recommends that their products are not connected via a USB hub. This has been a cause of many failed updates and numerous other bits of USB voodoo and it’s best avoided. Note: if connecting to USB on a PC, the ports on the front may also act as a type of hub connection, therefore it’s advisable to use one of the rear ports - these are probably mounted directly to the board. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, I just double checked the Release Notes for 3.50, because I understood that the “Boot Failure - Entered Update Mode” was to be expected, but the notes specify that this is on HELIX/RACK/LT only. This is also the case with v2.80 when the Core was modified.

Oh, not so much bored by the issues, more bored by the constant steam of whiny “update bricked my Helix” posts. The vast majority of these are a result of people failing to follow the instructions, and/or a flakey USB connection. Most of these situations can be avoided by taking a little more time and paying attention to what is happening. The “unnecessary aggro” you mention is generally self inflicted! Bet you were really elated to get your brand new Stomp and update it immediately - in your excitement you may have overlooked some minor detail. But, hey! It’s not the end of the world - it’s only software and it can be reinstalled, and as you have discovered - now everything works. Enjoy your new toy! Hope this helps/makes sense

Well, what now - is stop cross posting - I just replied to your post in another thread!

Hi, You’re not going to like this, but this sort of thing happens when you don’t follow the installation instructions to the letter. You have only just got your new HX Stomp, and tried to update to the latest firmware, but you didn’t say what version of the firmware was installed on your device when you plugged it in. I mention this because v.2.80 made a major change to the Core of the Helix engine. When updating to that version the update would appear to fail about 50% of the way through. This is mentioned in the Release notes for the firmware. This “Boot Failure” message was very upsetting for many users who failed to follow the instructions and screwed up the installation. Luckily, for most this was recoverable - it’s only software after all. IIRC, the update to 3.50 also had this if you were updating from prior to 2.80 the update would produce the “Boot Failure - Entered Update Mode”. Do not panic -this is normal! Anyhow, I seriously suggest you go here and follow the instructions - do not deviate from the instructions. if you need them - find the reset options for your unit here. https://helixhelp.com/tips-and-guides/universal/reset-options Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, You don't give us much to go on here with just a "Me Too" post. It's a big help to know what your HX unit is and your computer/OS. Also you have and to make sure that you actually have a full install of v3.50 and you followed the installation instructions to the letter. You say that you are getting no signal from any of the 1/4" inputs, but does it work via USB? Does the screen light up, and can you edit any of the presets. Have you tried a different connection to the main power. Too many unknowns here. I understand your frustration with the fact that you cannot get any sound from your device, although you say, - "I need that equipment for concerts and work and it can just blow a fuse like this ? at this price ?" - this can happen to any piece of equipment at any time. It's the nature of things and they usually happen at the worse possible times. If you were using a pedalboard and a tube amp you could still have something in the signal chain that fails in the middle of a gig. Rule one with anything like this is, Fail Safe - always have a back up! It's no-ones fault, at any price - sh!t happens. If you have tried a re-install of the firmware, followed all the reset procedures and you still have no signal, it probably indicates a hardware failure that is beyond the scope of anyone here. You should really should contact Customer Support. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, There was similar discussion going on in this thread (see link) where Helix Native is the suggested as the usual solution, BUT see the reply from contributor Craig Anderton where he says that it is possible to have both a Helix (floor/rack, whatever) and a Stomp both hooked up to HX Edit via USB at the same time. This allows you to drag and drop your edited presets between the 2 HX Edit windows, which apparently is not possible with Native. Link: Hope the helps/makes sense.

Hi, As noted in the link I provided regarding updating HX Edit if you don't see the new stuff - on some Macs, it is sometimes the case that when installing the new version of HX Edit an older version may still be launched by clicking on an "alias" to the previously installed version. It's always wise to double check. Enjoy your new cabs.

Hi, Along with the other users who have posted comments, I looked at the manual for the B. Beat and all references to MIDI are associated with MIDI files, which I would imagine are the SMF (Standard MIDI Files) that are used to play back sequences on 16 channels as there are lots of mentions of 16 channel audio, yet the physical connections for audio out are 6 mono jacks sockets. Without downloading the Manger App, I cannot find any information on how you change what is transmitted on any given MIDI channel. Therefore, as suggested by others, I think you need to contact tech support at M-Live. One thing that I do know is - MIDI implementation on the Helix is fairly limited, and it certainly doesn’t handle SYSEX. Hope this helps/makes sense.

There are others around if you search, here’s another. https://hxview.netlify.app And another. http://vulcanofx.blogspot.com/2019/08/helixhx-stomp-preset-snapshot-online.html plus another of dubious merit from way back! https://voigts.de/helix-preset-viewer/ Oh, IIRC, the presets are all JSON files and there are a whole bunch of editors available to modify the text in the source files. https://jsoneditoronline.org Have fun file chopping.

Hi Carl, I keep on saying this, but the Manual is your friend! HX Stomp XL 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev B - Page 58 - Global Settings> Footswitches https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3f21c86112a483099fb/application/pdf/HX Stomp XL Owner's Manual - Rev B - English .pdf Also, this keep on cropping up - but here ya go! Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, It's not a bug! There is a "sticky" thread on here entitled: Seriously, if you don’t see the new amp and effects models after updating, it means you need to update HX Edit. If you feel you need to re-install the firmware there is also this thread: Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi soundog, I guess you have been using these forums long enough to realise this Line 6 staff don’t monitor the posts and very rarely visit here. If you want your suggestion to have any chance of been seen by anyone who may take any notice, you need to submit your suggestion about HX Edit to IdeaScale. Before doing that, I would also ask that you take note of the post from @DunedinDragon above. HX Edit is simply a remote control for the hardware unit (Floor, Stomp or whatever), which needs to be connected to modify your presets. There is actually no “brain” in the Editor, which is why you cannot use it without a HX device being attached. As you have discovered - the general solution (workaround) to editing files for use on different hardware boxes is Helix Native which uses the Hardware Compatibility Mode. As for dozens of other “elegant solutions”… don’t hold your breath. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, I don’t know how complex your guitar A1 input chain is, but the thing that occurs to me is this - your Helix floor has Paths 1 & 2 and each of those can be split into another 2 paths, A & B. All 4 paths are stereo, and each preset can have 4 input blocks - 1 or 2 per path. I would consider using Path A for the guitar signal and Aeros looper patched in last, and then bypass all the guitar FX blocks by using Path 2 solely for the BeatBuddy. Plug in your guitar as normal with the looper in one of the Helix FX Loops, and use the other Return block for the BB Input. Theoretically, you could use Path A1 and A2 and possibly Path 2A as a super serial path along with Path 2B as the BB only channel. Try it and see if it works for you. Helix 3.0 Owner’s Manual - Rev F - English - page 21 - Super Serial https://line6.com/data/6/0a020a3f041b611d61cac763b/application/pdf/Helix 3.0 Owner's Manual - Rev F - English .pdf Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Copied from the description provided on https://helixhelp.com/models The Line 6 is Badonk is based on a Line 6 original inspired by the original high gain Big Bottom model Synopsis To create the Line 6 Badonk, the Big Bottom model from the XT code was rebuilt using new tools so that the overall EQ and pre-post distortion filtering matched. The previous tone stack was a little limited, so it was tuned up to have more range and provide a realistic, interactive response. To make this model feel more like a full amp, the power amp from the Fatality model (mesa rectifier mod) was added then tweaked slightly to reinforce the overall EQ curve of the Big Bottom. Tone Secret: The Big Bottom does not have a crap-load of low frequency. Instead, it is an amp with a slightly more than average amount of low end that can really hold together while being fed a lot of low frequency. It holds together well with heavily detuned guitars. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, It would be a big help if we knew what you are wanting to achieve, that you cannot do already? USB isn’t available as a block - it is built in to the final output as 8 channels of audio. You can connect to an iPad, or iPhone via the USB out to an Apple Camera Connection Kit adapter. I have used this to method record into GarageBand on an iPad, although it appears to me that you want to do something entirely different from being able to record the fully processed stereo audio along with a dry mono DI for re-amping? Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, There was a spate of posting regarding Native and Reaper crashing in Windows 10. Infact, one solution is offered higher up this thread in the post from @inbalance99 back in January. You must have missed that? TLDR? Here’s another solution. More - Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi Duane, You didn’t mention which hardware device you’re using, but this relates to the Helix. As noted by @SaschaFranck in the post above, you need to select the first delay on the Home Screen and assign it to a Footswitch using the usual method of touching the required switch and when the dialogue appears select O.K. Now select your second delay block and touch the same footswitch that the first DDL is using, now when the dialogue appears this time use knob 3 (on Helix) where the option needs to be set to “Merge” (IIRC this is default) which allows you to add multiple effects the the same switch. The Scribble Strip above the switch should now read “Multiple2”. You can now use the customise feature to rename the switch to whatever you wish - eg: Parallel DDL. This is covered in the Helix 3.0 Owner’s Manual - Rev F - Pages 50/52 - Bypass Assign Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Simple - you just need to select your Helix as audio Input, and built in as the Output device. Now you should be able to hear the Helix via you Mac’s built in speakers, but it will sound truly awful, get some decent cheap monitors. Those nice people at Apple have a support pages for this sort of stuff. https://support.apple.com/kb/index?page=search&src=support_book_topic&locale=en_GB&bookid=2ad4ecbb8e24f6cd9efcac897a233cf2&rurl=https%3A%2F%2Fsupport.apple.com%2Fen-gb%2Fguide%2Fmac-help%2Fmchlp2567%2F13.0%2Fmac%2F13.0&title=macOS+User+Guide&query=Audio+midi Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, again, Now I’m really, really confused. O.K. It might be the situation that you do have a Valve Driver in almost every preset that you use, BUT in the supplied example preset your signal chain had 2 distortion blocks. The first is a “Scream 808” model followed by a “Tube Drive”. Both of these are controlled by 4 Snapshots, 1=Clean, 2=Rhythm, 3=Main, 4=Solo, and both are engaged on Snaps 2, 3 and 4, BUT on the Clean snap BOTH are OFF! The main confusion comes about because you said - “The culprit is The Tube Driver. If that is off the nasty digital distortion is gone.” Hmm … If that is the case, how come your “engineer (who has worked with some big names)” was convinced the there was an “input distortion”, even when your Clean Snapshot has no distortion blocks being used? Is he unaware what a Tube Screamer and a Chandler Tube Driver are designed to do? Did he still experience “input” issues with your Clean settings? IME distortion blocks generally create a distortion effect, a bypass switch turns them off when you don’t want to hear distortion. Is it me, or is that not obvious? I bet this doesn’t make sense to you, because it certainly doesn’t to me

Hi, Not sure if this is the sort of set up you're trying for, but here's a video using the Aeros, BeatBuddy and a Helix rack. See if it helps.

Hi, Read through, study and try all the possible options suggested in this thread. If you have no success, contact Customer Support- the more they know about these issues, the more chance of getting a proper permanent fix. Hope this helps/makes sense. EDIT: You mention a “new” Mac Mini - do I understand from that statement you have “migrated” to a new machine? If so you may have to simply uninstall and reinstall Native on the new computer. IIRC there’s an issue with the Mac migration because the Authorisation is associated/tied to the hard drive. It’s been mentioned in these threads previously, but I cannot find the link at the moment. Update: link: more,

Hi, If you’re wanting to experience your Helix without colouring the sound, playing it into the front of a cheap Fender is not ideal, as you are adding that amp and cab into the equation. As suggested by other contributors, if you want to run into the front of the amp avoid using any cabinet blocks. I guess that your Fender cannot run 4CM, or you would be doing that? You say that you have a preference for the sound you hear from Shure buds, then a Studio Monitor system might be a better option allowing you the full range of tone from the Helix. The thing about monitors is they can be outrageously expensive items and the prices you see are usually for a single speaker - ouch. Here’s something that surprised me. I recently had one of my workhorse 8” Tannoys pack up, only to find that my backup 5” near fields had also decided to throw the towel in. Horror! Needing a quick replacement to keep running until the other stuff was fixed, I discovered these which I ordered from Amazon late afternoon, and was back up and running the next morning. I wasn’t expecting anything to shout about with these being super cheap, but … Yikes, these things actually do the job better than my old ESI nEar 05s, and - damn they are loud. I’m not a great fan of Uli Behringer as a human being, but at this price these are definitely worth investigating. https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Studio-Inches-Powered-Monitors/dp/B010Q6QY16/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2G38WTN1BMIW7&keywords=Behringer+USB50+MONITORS&qid=1677239549&sprefix=behringer+usb50+monitors+%2Caps%2C187&sr=8-3 This is only a suggestion for a low price solution, you will want to check out the the brands which are available - only you can decide. Hope this helps/makes sense.

Hi, Without an example preset that exhibits this “distortion” on the Simple Delay, it difficult to suggest a cause or solution. You are correct about the Vintage Delay, which is susceptible to this, due to the nature of the technology being modelled. Low sample rates and bit depth (8, or 12bit) could easily drive these early DDLs into breakup with the staircase shape of the resulting waveform being very choppy. I still have an almost 40 year old Ibanez DM1000 with an LED display marked “Headroom” to allow the input gain to be monitored, and along with the compressor/expander circuit and pre-/de-emphasis on the delay can make it reasonably quiet for an 8bit, 8kHz unit. In the Line 6 Vintage Delay there is a Headroom option which serves a similar purpose, although this is not available in the Simple Delay, so I’m unsure what might be causing that without having a preset to check. Hope this helps makes sense.