-
Posts
1,569 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
17
Everything posted by spaceatl
-
Get rid of the 4CM...You do not need that unless you want to use the preamp in your amp... GTR->PodGo GTR Input AMP OUT->Peavey FX Return Should be good to go by default...Set the AMP Source out to Pre Cab...This will take cab and mic modeling off that you don't want on a conventional amp...You retain the same great direct tone on the main outs. Keep in mind that you amp will not be able to do the sound of a mic on a cab, so it will be close. If you want the sound of the PodGo in cans, you need FRFR monitor...conventional amps will not do that. If the amp has a lot of power amp color, you could try switching to the PRE version of the amp model...A lot of times that will help clear it up...Doubling up the power amp color doesn't always work that great...
-
Actually, it is more likely to be the USB firmware than the driver IMO...I seriously doubt Line 6 will be updating such things on a 10 year old modeler.
-
When I said adapter, I meant a cable adapter (USB-A to USB-C). I have have been a developer on Windows and Mac for over 30 years now...Things are basically the same, just the terminology is updated and the scale is a lot bigger. You want a USB-A to USB-C cable adapter...I have not tried a USB-B to USB-C. I don't see why that would not technically work from what I know about USB, but I have not tried that for myself as I have only USB-A to USB-C cable adapters. I use those all the time with my macbook pro as USB-C is all that it has. Just need an adapter cable to whatever you need...NIC, HDMI, USB-A, VGA, power....really dig the unified interface and it will be nice when everything else catches up. Adapter cable has worked for everything thing USB-A I have tried. Not just Line 6 hardware. Methinks Line 6 is using the USB-B hardware on the POD because it is less expensive.
-
If only it were that simple.
-
Sounds like you need an LT or Full Helix, but only want to pay for a Stomp or PodGo...If you need more than 4 FX blocks, I would think the LT would do what you need.
-
I'm using a laptop backpack I got from my day job. perfect fit.
-
I was only able to do two gigs with it before the pandemic shut everything down. I love this thing! Super handy and it sounds fantastic!
-
the box is a bit larger than the board. 12"x20"x6". I think you might want a pedalboard to be a bit more streamlined PodGo fits in a conventional laptop backpack
-
I understand. Blackstars are great amps. They sound awesome. Looks to me like you have done your homework. I need to get some time with the PodGo...I have 2 banks of patches and they are for guitar and bass and only for FRFR use....I have not had time since the pandemic came on to do any 4CM experiments....However, what I would try first that differs from the manual slightly is using the AMP out for the power amp in instead of the main out....That way I could keep the IR cab for the main outs nd run direct at the same time as feeding the amp. The only trick there is to disable the amp model only....leave the IR enable and change the AMP OUT option to tap before the cab instead of the mirroring the main out....good luck sir!
-
Check power management setting on the USB root controller in Device manager... try different ports...Usually, the right hand side port is dedicated, left hand where multiple ports are will have an internal hub...Historically, PODs do not play well with USB hubs If it have USB-C, Maybe try an adapter? Insure that your BIOS, Chipset and other MB firmware is up to date Insure Windows 10 is up to date
-
No you are not wrong at all. It depends on what is important to you. I was just giving you my opinion. I have done 4CM...Longer means tweaking time of the patches and the amp. Most of the time it's leveling things out...getting amp set where you want it, getting the patch leveled out so the FX Loop toggle is balanced properly...you move the amp and bump the knobs you gotta put it back...Then you might find that in one situation, the volume level of your amp needs to be a little different and it just doesn't seem leveled out anymore...Granted it is easy to adjust when you are under the POD, but it got annoying to me. Going across patches and making sure relative volume is good. It's just tweaky and twice as many cables....For me, tweaking a POD alone is a breeze and there is no loss of flexibility that 4CM offers IMO... If you haven't done 4CM and built 16 banks of patches for 4CM leveled out for performance then you should do it if you that is what you want...Not trying to discourage you at all. That is a nice amp and I think it would do 4CM quite nice and Line 6 has made much easier in the PodGo than it used to be in the earlier PODs. All I am telling you is that I have done it and the benefits of have 1-4 real preamp tones that are in the amp are not worth it to me because I can get them close enough any POD. I just did not use them enough to justify all the tweaking time and extra cables. I moved to an FRFR wedge and basically I hardly ever use backline anymore. And I used amps for a long time...The modelers were not good enough on their own for me until HD came out. PodGo is very nice improvement tone wise...Not quite as flexible, but it works for what I need. Now, I use the PODGo for the studio too...It's faster to dial it up by itself than a 4CM setup and I get the music done...I can take a dry off the PodGo at the same time and use Helix Native to really get patches going the PodGo can't do...Mostly multi-path stuff...I just don't need that sort of complexity live...I just need a POD, guitar and an FRFR monitor or cans...The KISS principle is how I roll.
-
I think you should probably be looking at the Helix LT if 4CM is your top priority. You will not be able to switch channels from the PodGo. I am have been using modelers with amps for a very long time. IMO 4CM is a lot of trouble for very little added functionality. The patching is complex and the tweaking takes 10x longer. Again, if that is your top priority, I think the PodGo is the wrong box...I would go with a Helix or Helix LT...Or even HX FX if the amp models are less importance. just my opinion. For me, I run power amp in on any amp I am using. PodGo is actually quite good at this. The AMP out works well with the amps I have tried it with. I have done this for guitar and bass...I dial it on on FRFR...most often I use FRFR monitors...I have made the jump from using conventional amps...The only time I will use one if if backline is provided and logistics are just easier...power amp in...done...
-
If recording is your highest priority, the stomp makes a lot of sense to me....Mainly because the audio interface SN ratio, ADC, DAC etc... in the Helix line is really about as good as good as it gets with a 24 bit interface. The price point for the Helix interface quality level is really a great value IMO. Especially with the Stomp. But PodGo sounds fantastic too...Just depends on what you priorities are...For live use, no one would be able to tell the difference. For studio, maybe it's important to you.
-
Maybe from a price point perspective if you compare and HD300/400 to a 500...PodGo is next generation compared to a 300/400 IMO. HD300 and HD400 had the old PRE/POST chain options and only certain FX could be loaded in certain slots. Scenes is the other thing HD doesn't have...The amp models and FX are better and the thing that has really impressed me about Helix that they brought to PodGo is that the amp defaults are actually usable...As most longtime HD users know, the defaults in HD are not so great and some models have bad DEP settings.
-
I concur...While HD has a bit more flexibility in the chains, the PodGo overall I think PodGo sounds better to my ears on single chain tones...it doesn't do dual tone so it's not a fair comparison.
-
Fizzy tone from POd HD 500 when used with Alto speaker
spaceatl replied to Jeromebailey's topic in POD HD
I have the 12s and have never had anything like that happen...So this is a single patch that gets fizzy? You should be able to eliminate the POD by sticking some headphones in it...If the tone stay good in the cans it might be the Alto....The other thing to do would be try with 1/4" out and then XLR....See if it is only happening with one of the them...and check the headphones....if you hear it in the cans, then you know it's the POD...You gotta structure your troubleshooting on this a little to figure it out. -
Windows 7....LOL! I have a Sonar 5 workstation with UAD-1 cards on Windows 7. It's dedicated audio and I never use it anymore but it still works great...Has an old 8x8 EMU interface...but I digress. As I recall, I have never had much luck having more than one USB interface connected in Windows. In fact, I can remember quite few folks having issues with USB printers back when HD was first released and WiFi printers were a bit less common. Both use streaming mode. Does it happen with UX1 disconnected? Line 6 support might suggest only plugging in one interface at a time. Another thing it could be is a USB Hub....try moving it to the opposite side...Some laptops have a hub for the multi port side...usually avoid the left side...right side is generally a real single port...just a thought as hubs really mess with these things. You would likely have better luck rolling the driver back or just biting the bullet and updating to Windows 10...My Old HD works great on an 8 year old Sony Vaio...Same one you see on the Silicon Valley sitcom...I just swapped the drive for an SSD and it flies...totally stable unless I use the USB3 port...It was one the first machines with USB3 and likely the problem is my computer as the early implementations kinda sucked. Good luck!
-
Not true. An update to stabilize USB 3.0 would require new USB firmware, not necessarily the audio driver...You are using a decade old modeler and it is doubtful that an update will happen anytime in the future, if ever. If you want it to be stable, use a USB 2.0 port...If you want it to continue crashing, keep doing what you are doing...If you would like some help troubleshooting it, give a little information about the computer you are using and I would be glad to try and help you. Other things that can cause this can be related to your particular motherboard...Insure you bios and other firmware is updated and any chipset drivers are updated as well. Another cause can be power management settings in the USB Root Controller. This is more common on laptops as sometimes some manufactures don't delineate a difference between battery and on power.. Best of luck to you.
-
Trying switching to a USB 2.0 port if you computer has one...My computer has both and I get the same thing is I use USB 3.0....On 2.0 I have left it on for days with no crashes...Also use Reaper on Windows 10.
-
Did you try Sweetwater? They are running, albeit reduced capacity
-
I get the crash when I try to use a USB 3.0 port on Windows 10...As long as I use the USB 2.0 port, I can stay on and connected for days at a time. On the 3.0 port it varies from 15-20 min to a few hours
-
You're most welcome.
-
This is a curious one. The only thing I can think of to inject here is "maybe" a jitter issue. Or maybe at least eliminate it as a possibility. It does not seem like it as you indicated that when the sound changed that settings did not notice settings had changed. It's a fairly simple to eliminate and many of us have been doing this for years with the Line 6 amplifiers where this problem can be a bit more pronounced...At least on some of the older ones like the AX2 and Flextones. Next time you are testing, park all of the tonestack pots at zero and then recall the patches you are testing with leaving the tonestack pots parked. Generally, when a pot jitters and sends it's setting for position, it's usually a bit different than the current patch if you just leave them where they were last time you edited. You can get some pretty nutty tone changes that can be hard to determine depending the pot and position. Parking the pots at zero or max generally eliminates this. Anyhoo, just a thought. Best of luck.
-
Like Phil said, A playback difference in sample rates can cause this in some DAWs. Check that your project sample rate is the same as the Stomp. This kinda sounds like recording at 48k and playing back at 44.1 with pitch and time correction turned off...Anyhoo, a mismatched rate can cause what you describe. a note recorded at 48k will be almost a whole step lower when played back at 44.1...