spaceatl

it's doable....You need to set the AMP OUT to PRE/IR. Do not turn off the CAB/IR block wire up GTR->GO GTR Input GO FX Send-> AMP GTR Input AMP FX Send->GO FX RTN GO AMP OUT->AMP FX Return You may want to put the CAB/IR block at the very end of the chain if you want post FX in both the FRFR and the AMP...If not, just put whatever FX you want only in the FRFR after the CAB/IR block...Good luck.

I only use the stock cabs...The SVT cab is great IMO. Less is more...compression is just there for when you dig in IMO...I typically don't use a compressor in my patch. If I do, it's first in the chain and typically just getting the peaks off...More limiting that compression...but not much, just for the slaps and such. work on making your bas playable...maybe the truss rod is out of adjustment...get the action nice...use light strings. You don't need huge strings for great tone...good luck.

Yes, the Main outs are actually balanced, so you could just get a TRS->XLR adapter....or use a direct box with a TS patch cord...either way will work fine. You could use the AMP Out to feed FOH also...just set the Global setting to Main if you do. That's an unbalanced out so you need a direct box if you use that one.

I spin up my own...The SVT Nrm and SVT Brt are basically the only two I need 99% of the time. I do love using the Bassman here and there....I use a little distortion at times, octave higher to sim an 8 or 10 string and maybe a modulation here or there. I'm pretty simple when it comes to bass tones. Less is more when it comes to bass IMO. I would suggest you start with the amp alone...take a patch and turn all of the FX off minus the AMP and cab....Start going thru the amps alone and you should hopefully find the ones that work best for you. Get that raw tone where you really like it and it super solid on it's own...As long as you bass has decent pickups and is setup decently you should be able to get some great tones out of it...After that, move on to the FX....Trying to do it all at once is chaotic and too complex...take it step by step...You will learn how the tweak the GO from the bottom up and find what really works for your situation.

Yes, configure the FX Loop to be AUX IN in the global settings and use the FX returns for your back track.

I use the GO for bass quite a lot and it works great for me. It replaced the POD HD Desktop I have been using for many years now. Parallel routing is really nice and something the HD does that the GO does NOT do. The HX Stomp can do this also and a dry path is nice to have...The GO is a single chain path. However, you can configure the AMP out to be a Main Out....This is a split and not parallel. If you are going ampless, you don't really need parallel imo. I use an FRFR monitor when I play live...I generally have the PA take DI off the Main out and run the AMP out to my monitor....Works a bit better for live than the HD as it did...What is really nice is that when I have done gigs with provided backline, I just change the AMP out to PRE/IR on the GO and run the AMP OUT into the provided bass amp...typically the power amp in or the FX return depending on what it is...In my patches I put the IR block at the end of the chain so that I get FX in both the AMP out and the MAIN and I don't need separate patches...The few times I needed to do some correction on the provided amp I just ran it into the front and used the tonestack to make the modest corrections...good luck.

Depends on what your tools are...For me, I would download the video, extract the audio track, create a project in Reaper, import the extracted audio and then record my tracks shooting video at the same time....After I mixed it down, I would use iMovie or Sony Vegas to put the audio & video together and do the video render...Just depends if I was using my PC or Mac for which video software I would use to render the video. All you do is line up the audio from the camera to the rendered audio, then delete the camera audio...

Your best bet would be to download the video first and put it into your DAW. That way you can use the GO as the audio device and the playback is controlled in your DAW. You might need a format converter depending on your DAW....Worst case, you extract the audio. good luck.

I have a pair of Alto TS212 tops....I generally only use one for shows and rehearsals. Altos are very flat and I have been very happy with mine for years.

HD doesn't directly support the dual output mode you would need to run direct and a guitar amp monitor at the same time. Yes, it is a bit misleading that there are XLR outs. However, all of the outputs will track to whatever output mode you have selected...If you use a guitar amp with the HD tweaked for direct to PA (Studio Direct), the amp will sound dark....If you tweak the tone to the amp using one of the AMP modes, then you PA feed will make your ears bleed. Your simplest option is to use an FRFR monitor with HD. Then you are flat like the PA and your tone will be consistent....If you really must use a conventional amp for a monitor with the HD, you really have to setup a dual tone for that purpose and that tends to run the unit out of DSP. It's a headache to make the HD do that and always a compromise. While it may not have enough FX for your needs, the POD GO supports a true dual output mode. I still have my HD, but have mostly moved to the GO now.

Yes it can...But it isn't a dual amp path. Rather, you can set the system option for the AMP OUT to be Pre/IR and the AMP OUTPUT will be the signal after the amplifier and before the IR...Note, if you want all the post effects in the AMP OUT you will need to move the cab block to the end of the chain.

I'm on the current Win 10 Update and recorded some tracks with my HD last night after more than 3.4 months. You might want to double check to see if your laptop manufacturer has a BIOS update and/or chipset update for your machine.

It's not powered. You would need a power amp if you have a need to run a house cab with your own power...But it works great just hitting the power amp in of every "house" amp I have used it with. I have had mine a while and it's held up very nicely.

Running to the Main In would be your best bet to start. Keep it simple...JC120s are pretty flat as far as guitar amps go. That metal cone extends the high end a bit compared to a paper cone. JC-120 is just a Class AB solid-state stereo power amp. If you wanted to use the preamp, you could do it...Basically, the Line out on those is a preamp out...So you do have an FX Loop...It's just not marked that way. The Line out is mono on the old ones as I recall...So 4CM is possible...If you are new to the GO I would suggest starting with running the GO Main outs to the Main Ins on the JC-120 and let the GO do the preamp work...Once you get under it, you could move into the 4CM and try that out...For me it is more trouble than it's worth....Too many cables and a lot more programming to get things all leveled out and playing nice together...certainly is doable and JC120s really are decent for using with modelers IMO.

Save yourself some time and just get Helix Native. A lot less trouble and saves a lot of time compared to printing tracks.

It looks to me like your FX Loop level is set extremely low. You are running a funky gain structure to have level that low in your recording. The clipping you might be hearing could be whatever you have down steam in the GO. It sorta looks like maybe you are running instrument level on a line level pedal...hard say without actually knowing what your pedals are.

You could try calling them. If you are in the period where the dealer will exchange, then I think you should go ahead and exchange...If you go the warranty route, you will either have to find a service center or send it back to Line 6...Better to let the dealer deal with that if you have the option. Just to be clear, I have not seen a single lockup since updating to 1.12....I have never seen the boot up with no sound...I think your issue is hardware if you have updated to 1.12.

It happened to me prior to 1.12 (screen freeze on boot)....I have not seen it happen since installing this update. Booting with no sound is something I have never seen myself. I think you should consider exchanging it if you are still in the period to do so as that sounds like a defect unrelated to firmware from what I have experienced.

It happened to me when my Windows 10 updated last week...I installed the current driver patch and it came back fine. Make sure you unplug the GO USB from the computer while installing. To be specific, the driver was working with Windows audio, but the ASIO would not initialize in the reaper and was missing.

I think the only way that would work would be with the AMP Out set to PRE CAB/IR....But you sorta need the IR to make the headrush sound right as that mode is really intended for a conventional guitar amp....I think another way you could try working around this might be using the FX Loop....If you stick the FX Loop at the end of the chain and use a Y-cable, you could jump the loop and tap the output...That should be sans playback...kind of a hack, but if you are not using the loop, it's doable and you could take it stereo as well to the headrush.

I would suggest that you use the AMP OUT of the POD GO to drive the headrush....Use the main outs for the hifi like you are doing already....You will need to set the AMP out in the system to mirror the main outs...Don't use a speaker cable for a line signal...use a signal cable. It won't hurt anything to use it, it would just likely be kinda noisy.

Try Reaper. You'll be glad you did.

ground loop...so is the computer a laptop or desktop? if it's a laptop, the buzz might might get better if you run on battery. Another thing to try is insure that the amp and computer are on the same grounded circuit and the ground is actually a good ground. Or if they are on the same circuit, try putting one of them on another circuit. reverse direct box....So another way to isolate the tube amp (or some other ground loop sensitive device) from the computers is to run thru a direct box backwards with the ground lifted...You would need a 1/4 TRS to female XLR...then just a normal 1/4 1/4 patch to the amp.... AVR - Automatic Voltage Regulator power supply....You could put your amp or the computer on one of these. The benefit of using a transformer on the power is that it makes ground loop impossible.

USB cable from GO to computer AND insure that you hook your speakers up to the GO LR outputs. In the audio preferences of you DAW application, make sure that you have the GO selected as the device. Then when you create a track, you should see up to 6 available input options, 1 mono, 2 mono, 1&2 stereo, 3 mono, 4 mono and 3&4 stereo....Something like that...It varies a bit between the DAWs but you just need to remember that 1&2 are wet and 3&4 are dry and the manifest on the track where you would select the input you want....

Pod Go is probably the better choice. HD does have some additional capability, but it will take you twice as long to get under the HD500 as it would for the Go...As long as the Go has enough for you in terms of FX I think it would be the better choice.