davidb7170

The old Variax Workbench works with the XTLive, X3Live, and HD500, but not with the HD500X. The HD Workbench for the JTV updated to HD works with the HD500 and HD500X only. Until Line 6 makes the Helix work with some form of Workbench HD, I will have to hang on to my 500 for my Variax 300, my 500X for my 2 JTV's (59 & 69S). It's a pain, and I hope they get it together -- the sooner the better. I honestly have not used my Variax 300, or messed with it and the old workbench since I got my JTV's. Dave

One thing to check is how actually flat you monitoring speaker is. I use a PA speaker - good quality one, Yorkville, but found after fighting it for quite a while that it is not actually Flat Response, even though it is Full Range. When I got my Helix I was not liking the factory presets -- didn't sound anything like the video clips we've all been watching through the past summer. I plugged in a decent pair of headphones - nothing high end, but low end Sennheiser, and the factory patches sounded MUCH better than my speaker did. I used the Global EQ to find where the differences were, and mostly found it (by ear) comparing with the headphones and found that at 3 kHz (for my speaker) if I cut the midrange by about 8 dB and had a low Q number on the setting, the harshness went away with the distortion heavy amp models and the sound was MUCH closer to the headphones and to the videos... It wasn't scientific - I'd love to get a reference microphone and sweep generator to nail it further, but frankly, I've gotten very good results this way. Thinking about it, it makes a certain amount of sense -- PA speakers are built to bring out the vocals -- emphasize the mid range -- they are NOT studio monitors. Sounds like the L6 L2T and its family are built with FRFR specifically designed in, so that would be a good way to go, but I went a different way - each to their own. I set the global EQ to only send to the line-level 1/4" out I use for my stage monitor, the XLR out to FOH is not sent the EQ'd signal, and I also send it mic level, not line, and the volume knob only controls the 1/4" out. My first gig out with the Helix, we played a bar with a house sound man. He was impressed with my tone through my guitar monitor and the signal I gave him -- he said he didn't have to do any additional EQ -- left it flat, and complimented me on my tone. Works for me, YMMV. Dave

The only oddity I ran into with the update was reloading my presets - I updated the FW 1.04.1 after I had saved my set lists & bundle with Helix App 1.01, and again after I updated to the 1.02 version. After the FW update and global reset, used Helix App 1.02 to reload the set lists, and in my main one I have different patches for my JTV 69S & 59 set up with levels adjusted for both, but I place them at different points on the set list, i.e. the 69S patches take up bank 01, 02, and 03, so I have the 59 patches at banks 11, 12, & 13. There are basically blank "New Presets" in the banks in between the two groups for future patches as I make them. The weirdness was that the actual patches went into the right places for the Bank 01 - 03 for the 69 and at Banks 11 - 13 for the 59, but the names for the 59 patches shifted down to the "New Presets" in between, and the 11 - 13 banks (with the actual proper settings) were all named "New Preset".... I used the Helix App to copy and paste the proper names to the proper patches on banks 11 -13, so all is well, but it is a bit of a pain. Apparently, the Helix App or the Helix itself didn't like blank patches in between the named ones... Dave

I use a Quilter Tone Block 200 amp -- very small and powerful, plus a Yorkville NX35 PA speaker/monitor on a speaker stand pointed at me at shoulder level. I'm 6'6" and used the floor monitor position for years, but stage volume was an issue, so this works for me and keeps the stage volume manageable. PA speakers are Full Range, but not necessarily Flat Response, so I cut the mids at 3 kHz by about -8 dB and used a Q of about 2.3 using the Global EQ to take the vocal peak out and flatten the response. Took the harshness of the distortions out -- VERY HAPPY with it now. Was fighting that for years with the HD500(X) -- have done the same with my 500X, but need to rework my patches on it so it will serve as an emergency backup. The sound man at last weekend's gig (my first gig outing with the Helix) was very impressed with my sound -- kept his board EQ flat for my guitar channel. I assign the global EQ to only the 1/4" out's at line level for my stage sound (the Quilter & Yorkville speaker), and send the FOH un-EQ'd mic level. The Yorkville is about 28 pounds, due to being a neo 12" driver - very workable. Need to be full range for the JTV acoustic models.The sound man was impressed with my stage sound, as well - did not expect a PA speaker & guitar signal to sound good.... YMMV Dave

It sounds like you have tried many things with no success, but I would suggest a couple of things to try. You may have already done these - if so I apologize, but just in case... First off disconnect ANYTHING other than the USB cord and power supply from your 500 before trying a firmware update. This has happened to me with my 500(X) being connected to my amp creating a ground loop, and caused a failed FW update, I also disconnect my JTV's VDI cable, to make sure the 500(X) is not also communicating with the JTV in the midst of the USB communications. During these FW updates, I make sure the PC - USB - HD500(X) is only doing one thing at a time -- talking to each other.... I have also gotten my PCs' USB into a state on non-communicating. The PC will keep track of devices it has had communication problems with and not even try - which is why folks suggest trying another USB port - the different port may be on a different internal USB controller without the history of communication problems with the HD500. This is also why the USB will work with other devices, but not the problem device -- I've had that too... If I have no joy with another USB port, I will go into the PC Control Panel - Device Manager, find the USB controller and (this is scary) remove the USB hub from the list - and controllers. Don't panic, they will be reinstalled by Windows (you may have to force a hardware scan), but when they are reinstalled by the system, this wipes out the history of failed devices, and it will try again when you connect the "problem" device again.... Make sure like I said, that the HD500 is ONLY connected to the PC USB and nothing else. The reason it may have failed on multiple PC's may be that your HD500 had a ground loop due to connection to an amp - the amp doesn't even need to be turned on to have a ground loop affect things like this. The multiple attempts may have all had something like this in common. Break it down to the basics, go step by step. If that doesn't do it, then you may have a defective USB interface on the 500. Good luck. Dave

On the products page or thereabouts on the L6 site, they have a comparison chart of the JTV 69, 69S, 59, 89F, and Standard -- found it quite interesting.... It's dated 2015, so think it's accurate, and it reflects what we've been seeing available at places like Sweetwater, etc. The 69 is shown ONLY in LP Blue; the 69S is shown available in Olympic White, Sunburst, and Black with Maple Neck; the 59 is shown in TSB, CSB, Black. No 59P anymore. The JTV-89 is not there, but the 89F is - still in the 2 colors. Also the Standard is listed with no gig bag -- that has come up in the forum's Standard section.... They are definitely changing the color offerings to less variations, but not real indications of discontinuing JTV's outright that I can see (at least not imminent) - maybe wishful thinking on my part. I bought the TSB 59 right away, then the Shoreline Gold 69S when those came out. Maybe my SLG 69S will be "rare" and collectable at some point - LOL... Dave

Nice!! When does it hit the stores? Dave

The wattage needed varies with the venue and the noise level at them. I have not played any football stadiums or arenas, but know I need more playing in a packed beer pavilion at my local fair than at a local bar. The soundman controls the FOH mix with the instruments of course, and I use my arrangement for stage. I had been using floor monitor wedge separate from the PA monitors for quite a while, but since I am 6" 6" and found my stage volume creeping up as most of the sound was hitting me about lower chest. I now use my PA style speaker on a stand, and now for most inside bar gigs rarely set my Quilter above 40 - 50 watts. Speaker placement is key. At the fair with my Crown XLS1000, I would need 2 floor wedges bridged to get above the crowd noise. This year at that venue, I used the Quilter and one speaker on a stand and think I might have had it set for 100 Watts, tops. I never dimed my Crown, though with the POD HD500X, but the headroom was there. The Crown's stated 215 Watts (perceived as around 100 Watts) per side was rarely enough on the floor, so I bridged it for 700 watts (rated) - the perception would be half that at about 350 watts if maxed by the input from the HD. Like I said with PA amps, the loudness is about half the amp rating -- not so with the Quilter. It's ratings relate pretty much the same loudness of a tube guitar amp of the same rating. Dave

Assuming you have a stereo PA (wouldn't do any good to send 2 feeds to a mono system). If you set them up with headphones or stereo monitoring, you will have come to the stereo sound field that you want to hear. It will be up to your sound guy to make it sound like you want it - HE (or she) will need to pan the PA channels' left and right all the way to their sides for your feed -- if he doesn't you be left with a centered mono mix going out front. Definitely run to the FOH PA with XLR cables. Dave

I took a look at mine - it has the plate on the right XLR only. I tried an XLR into both, and they both lock in fine. The release button just pops out further on the left XLR, but both need to be pressed to release both of the XLR connectors. The left XLR and the left 1/4" are both marked "Left/Mono", while the right are both marked just "Right" - even in the picture above with the plates in both. I'm really guessing it's for sensing if 2 outputs are present or not. The picture above with the plate in both may be the exception rather than the norm. It's possible the assembler at the factory grabbed the wrong part for that unit's left XLR, or ran out in their parts bin for it and used the one with the plate for that one's left XLR. I would bet the unit in the pic above with both probably acts the same as everybody else's, because the plate on the left is probably not hooked up to the circuitry to do the mono/stereo signal choice. To do that one little bit for a circuit revision would be much more trouble than "either/or" mono would be worth - especially when it's still only marked "Left/Mono" and "Right" AND if you're going mono to an amp or PA, you'd only be using one cable anyway, so why not just use the one marked "Left/Mono"? IMO, the one with the "defect" would be the unit with both plates, in the pic above, and it's really not a defect, they just used the (probably more expensive) connector on that one. I'd be interested if many more are reported -- and I'll bet they won't, or the number will be very small.... Mountains or molehills.... I'm thinking the latter.... Dave

I have the Crown XLS1000, and it has plenty of poop for the purpose. I use it in bridged mode for mono - you get 700 Watts into 8 Ohms or 1000 Watts into 4 Ohms. If you go stereo you get 215 Watts each side into 8 Ohm speaker load, or 350 Watts per side into 4 Ohms. One thing I've found with solid state amps, you need twice the power rating you think you need if you're used to tube amps, to get the headroom you're used to. When you hit the actual stated power level, the SS amps are at the point of clipping. Early this year, I picked up a Quilter Tone Block 200 amp - the thing is rated at 200 Watts max, and has a graduated power knob. Quilter (the former owner of QSC power amps) rated the Tone Block apparently with the power ratings in mind - think I saw something that they would normally be rated at 400 watts in the SS world.... I have not used it set higher than 100 Watts. It is mono, but puts out the same volume into 4 or 8 Ohms. Sounds very good. Its about 4 pounds, and is about the same size as my old CRATE Power Block.... I actually use the carry case from my old Power Block.... Dave

I actually think it has a function -- to tell if there is one or two XLR cables plugged in, to switch from stereo out for 2, and mono-summed for one XLR only. The 1/4" outs do this with an internal contact. With XLR you don't have a moving contact, so need some way to tell if 1 or 2 cables are connected. You can do it with one sensor, if you always use the same out marked for mono - sense the other input - get a contact, then serve up stereo output. If you have sensors on both outputs, you can provide mono when only one cable is connected to either output. Think we're seeing a minor physical revision of those with one and those with 2 sensors. I might be wrong, but that's what it looks like to me. Dave

You're also up a gig bag. The Korean JTV's come with gig bags, the US JTV's come with hard shell cases, but the Standard's come from the manufacturer with no bag. It was the same thing when I bought my 300 in 2005. I bought a hardshell Gator case that I still use with my JTV 69S now. I watched a guy unbox the Standard on the forum, and was surprised that it had no bag, just the guitar in the cardboard box. The unit you got sounds suspicious to me -- I think you got a used guitar or a returned unit.... With all the inconsistent items you noted.... One question - did the gig bag have the Line 6 logo on it? Dave

Ok -- don't have the 700, I have the lowly 300 (since 2005), plus the JTV-59 (2011), and JTV69S (2012). I can say without hesitation the JTV's are better guitars for me. The modeling is good in the generation 1 Vax's, and very good in the JTV's -- up through the versions, got better IMO. The control and tuning options make it much better (again for my use) than the 1st gen. Also, in my 2 JTV's the construction, fit & finish was a vast improvement over my 300. I know that opinions vary and have heard the horror stories of the physical problems on the various JTV's for some folks - I've not had those same experiences. Then of course having magnetic pickups to me was a huge feature - use them 80 - 90% of the time. When I was gigging the 300, I came to taking along a very good Epi LP, and an Ovation acoustic/electric. I ended up having the Vax as the sound for specialty songs that needed odd tunings I had to set up as special patch models, so would switch over to it for those. Once I got the JTV-59 dialed in, I quit needing to take the Ovation, and the LP ended up sitting in the emergency backup position on the stand. Realizing if I broke a string, there were songs we could not do because of the special capabilities of the JTV were being depended on, so I got my 69S. The LP stays home, now. Aesthetically, the JTV's were more in my expectations of electric guitars -- never cared for the body shape of the first generation. I don't personally care for the aesthetics of the new Standard Variax model -- obviously looks like a Yamaha and I don't care for the looks of Yamaha's. No rational reasons, just don't care for it.... If I had to choose only between the first gen shape and the Standard shape, I would go with the Standard, but still much prefer the 69 & 59 shapes. The 89 shape is basically a sharper angled 69 shape and has a different neck, body contours, and pickup configuration. I think having the options for different tastes is good. Hope they don't discontinue the JTV's.... My opinions are only worth something to me..... Dave

This really sounds like a ground loop symptom to me. One thing to try to see if it's a ground loop is to turn off the Helix with the cables connected how you connect them between the Helix and your amp. If the noise/bad cable hum/buzz is still present with the Helix off, you have a ground loop - you're hearing the voltage difference between the ground at your amp and the ground at the Helix, being connected together by the ground shield of your cables. The best way to avoid it is to make sure your electrical power connections are all on the same power strip/outlet, so there's no (or extremely small - milli - or micro - volts) voltage difference between the two ground points. I don't use the 4CM, but it applies to any connection between the pedal and the amp. High gain on the amp itself just makes it way more prominent, as well. Dave

Actually the Helix retails for 3X the retail of the 500X - $1499 vs. $499 US. Some folks were able to cut discounts, not me... It's OK, though, I'm happy with mine. I used some of my gigging kitty $$ for it.... It is a different animal, though. Taking some time to wrap my head around it. Not hard to make good sounds at all. Mostly hard to make decisions on which to use. I'm trying to duplicate my 500X basic sounds for gigging. So many choices... Not ready to use it this weekend's gig, though, will be using the 500X until I get the Helix all set up to go. Liking it a lot so far. Found it necessary to use the global EQ to flatten the response of my speaker to try to match the headphones to take the midrange harshness out -- worked great. Will also apply to my HD500X and backup HD500, when I get around to it.... Oops -- off topic, sorry. Is it 3X as good.... hard call.... Dave

This is not specifically to do with the ALTO speakers, but I had a minor revelation a couple of days ago.... I am using Yorkville PA/Monitor speakers - I think the N35 got from my soundman when he was moving to Yorkville powered speakers. They are light (Neo's) and good sounding, but I realized they are Full Range, but not Flat Response. I have been fighting with this problem all along -- never could get my speakers to sound good with the stock presets in either the HD500(X) or the new Helix. I've run them with a Crown XL1000, and most recently Quilter Tone Block 200 -- the problem's not with the amplification. I put on headphones and listened to the stock presets on the Helix and they sounded quite good, turned up my speaker and sounded harsh. I try not to resort to the global eq, but messed with it to find the sound of the headphones through the speaker. I found I had to cut the frequencies around 3 kHz -- really that was about it, and the harshness went away. It make sense, now that I think about it as PA speakers are meant to make VOICES sound good -- which live in the mids, so they emphasize the vocal range with peaking response around those frequencies... Once I cut that range, my speaker sounds VERY much like what I hear through the headphones. MUCH improved. If the ALTO's or other speakers are designed for vocal PA use, they may have the same mid-range harshness for the modelers' stock presets, that were probably set up with true FRFR reference speakers. You can make your own presets sound really good through the speaker without the global eq, but you'll make cuts in frequencies, that when sent to an FOH system won't sound that great. The good thing about the Helix is that you can choose the outputs the global EQ affects. I set mine to the 1/4" outs only, and left the XLR's that I connect to my soundman's system alone. Can't do that with the HD500X.... I do plan on revisiting my HD500 & 500X with the same thing in mind, as they are going to be my back up rig. Just an observation, hope it helps.... Dave

Same with Edge, here on Win10 as well. Much appreciated, Duncann! That has been annoyance for quite a while... Dave

Why yes it does!! Thanks, Duncann -- this is IE11 on Win10, will need to try it on Edge... Thanks, Dave

I'd like to make a suggestion on the bug reports -- In the recent few days, L6 released the 1.02.2 firmware. I cannot tell the newly reported bugs are 1.00, 1.01.2, or 1.02.2 issues -- Please note what version of firmware you are on when reporting bugs. I notice some earlier posts included theirs. Please continue with this practice, as I think we will be seeing more revisions, but it also could explain some ground being covered that could have been addressed with a newer existing FW release. amsdenj's post just above states he got his unit yesterday -- did not state he updated the firmware, and it may be that at least some of his issues may have been fixed, or maybe not -- just an example of not knowing his FW version adding to confusion in the issues.... I will be receiving my Helix early next week, and will probably play with it with it's 1.00 FW right out of the box for a while, I'm sure, and will get around to doing the update in a day or so, so will need to keep in mind the state of the initial FW and not freak right away. I will probably not wait long to update, though, as the JTV integration is vital to me, and I know 1.02.2 addresses that one for sure... Dave

I haven't been able to use the quote for quite a while on this forum. Did not connect the problem with the browser though, but it makes sense, I guess. By the time L6 changed to this version of the user forums, I was already on IE 10 or 11. Typing this on Edge, at the moment BTW, along with a couple other responses over the past couple of days. My laptop's upgraded Win10 still has IE11 available, and Norton AV protests when I use Edge, but it is seemingly quicker... I have not had problems quoting on other forums, so seems enough blame is available to spread around... The HP Pavilion Laptop is probably 3 years old, I think, but new enough to have USB 3.0 ports on it. The OS that came on it at purchase was Win7 Home Premium, IIRC. I've been a Win user for a long time, tried others like Linux (all kinds of distro's) and just don't care for Apple MAC's, so I always come back to Win something or other. I am not about claiming anything wrong with the other OS's, they're just not for me. My smart phone and tablet are Android -- ok, but nothing stellar IMHO. There's a lot of haters of (insert OS here). Meh... Just need to find the one for your needs and how you think/interact, and sometimes have to wait for apps and drivers, etc. to catch up. The more mature the product and the OS, the more likely to work. Deep breath, wait and keep calm.... Dave

Don't have my Helix yet -- due next week when I'm back in town, but I've been using my USB 3.0 ports on my homebuilt Win 8,1 pc with my HD500 and 500X for a year or more without incident. Also used with USB 2.0 on my previous homebuilt Win 7 pc - now my server. One difference was I could use a USB "extension cord" on my older USB 2.0 machine, but not my USB 3.0 machine.... I recently updated my Win 7 laptop to Win 10 it has both USB 2 & 3 ports easily accessible, but have not put the L6 SW on it - may have to try it out... Don't have any major issues with 10 so far -- the one I'm writing this on. Just my experience with it - I was concerned it would be a problem with USB 3.0, but wasn't for me. I keep pretty tight control of my machines and drivers, etc. Dave

His point was he couldn't back it up.... Dave

Too bad if true -- I love my 69S -- have the shoreline gold - it's a beauty. To me, the Standard just looks.... standard.... Don't care for the looks of the Standard compared to mine at all. I also have a TSB 59. It is troubling, though. When I took a look at the Sweetwater gallery pic's of the JTV's they have on hand, I saw no SN newer than 2014...., saw 2012, 2013, and 2014... Don't like the implications of that. Anyone from L6 want to chime in here? Dave

Also -- your question on a relay coil was not how I envisioned the CV. A relay coil is on or off (voltage or no voltage), where CV's are usually a variable voltage for analog fx devices.... A relay coil would not like a variable voltage.... It would lead to relay chatter, and yes would need some current to actuate... Doubting this is what you're after. Dave