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In my opinion, those who successfully embrace FRFR are those who don't need it to have an "amp in a room" feel. I wanted an FRFR in the room feel ... and it did that perfectly. Powercab is your best bet, but if you really want an amp in the room, it's a scientific fact you need to place an amp in the room.

There are no shortcuts, no. Listen and adjust accordingly. Stand by to be told that you need six different varieties of dB meters, a live chicken, and a Ouija board to level patch volumes properly. Pay no attention. The two things you need, you already have: 1) Ears. 2) The channel volume parameter, and/ or the output block volume.

It seems to work - just tried quickly with A and B paths manipulating the mixer B level, B pan and B polar with expression pedal - normal min value and invert max value. Seems to work. Andy Summers seemlessly morphing into John Sykes :-) Try to set someting up tomorrow and check in depth!. Thanks a lot for helping me in the right direction!!. :-) :-)

I went full digital back in GT-10 days and I don't missing carrying all the extra gear and fighting with a guitar cab that sounds different in every room. As far as "amp in the room", you need something that moves air like the cab you're used to or it won't work feel-wise. So either a real guitar cab, Powercab, or probably one of the Friedman options. I tried their wedge 12" speaker and that was the closest to a guitar cab feel I've gotten with full-range speakers. I personally prefer my monitor up on a pole behind me to further decouple from the effects of the stage/room on my sound. I'm also an anomaly among guitarists as I couldn't really give two craps less about "cab feel", since I learned to play and spend 99% percent of time practicing in headphones or monitors, so for me playing guitar has nothing to with the amp or air movement, just hitting the right notes at the right time in the right way. I sure do like having a load in that consists of my pedalboard, my guitar case, and my 12" PA speaker with a pole.

I owned quite some decent drive pedals over the years, but I gotta say that the Heir Apparent is easily up to even the very best of them. I don't think I'll ever create a patch without it anymore. Does a fantastic job in front of pretty much any amp at almost any gain. Not a too huge fan of the fuzz boxes though, even different input impedance settings don't seem to deliver the right dynamic behaviour.

Worst case scenario get a short male to female cable and tie the end to your strap. This is necessary in some guitars with active pickups, even if the transmitter fits.

It will but you’ll have to let the jack out a little on the guitar and place a rubber washer between it and the body to where it’ll make contact With the transmitter. I’ve got a post on here describing and pics of how I did it and others have done it also with how I showed.

IMO, you don't get an "amp in the room" from an FRFR. You get a finished sound.... which includes the mic as part of the tone. A poweramp and cabinet will nail down an "amp in the room" but you won't have an FRFR so you can never go down the path if you want to. Most FRFR's cannot turn off the horn which makes it difficult to achieve the "amp in the room". The PowerCab is capable of doing "amp in the room" because many of it's options disable the horn. When those modes are used it is not an FRFR, it is a speaker cabinet with some tone shaping on the speaker alone. The PC is an FRFR when it is set to FLAT or if you have the PC Plus and load up 3rd party IR's... I would suggest looking at a PowerCab Plus. You can control that fully with a Helix and swap settings per preset. That way you can get the "amp in the room" tone when you need it, and you are fully setup to take full advantage of an FRFR at your own pace. If money is a concern, the PowerCab can also do "FRFR" or "amp in the room", but you won't be able to control it per preset from the Helix.

just to repeat what everyone else has said - studio/direct XLR when possible (it isn't always available for small gigs) but never forget - do not design patches on a guitar amp, and then expect the same results from a pa you want to design your patches with the same setup as you will be using for performances

or, they will run a snake, the same as they would for microphones that way there isn't a dozen individual wires being draped across the dance floor

This was driving my crazy! I'll try our your presets tonight. Thanks!

I submitted a trouble ticket in order to find this hidden "Spider Remote Pilot's Guide." In the Overview section of the Spider V Family Pilot's Guide it states one is "available for download at https://line6.com/manuals. Well, there are only manuals for hardware, not apps. I am figuring it out as I use the app, trial and error, but I'm wasting a lot of time and still have many questions. By reading all the posts it appears I am not alone. I don't think this manual exists. Creating user manuals isn't that difficult. I've done many. it's a matter of making outline of the various functions, describing what you want the reader to understand for each function, capturing screen shots/snippets from various devices, pasting them into the document, drawing arrows, circles or boxes to call attention to a specific information, and then writing the procedures to follow for each function.

This. You nailed it flux1968. And get beyond the What to the How. What are the specific steps, the instructions that I as a Spider V Remote App User need to take to get basic sh*t done, like in my case create, save and backup unique amp/mic/cab/effect profiles (batches of settings) for each instrument I play at gigs. My geek kid eventually took a look at the software and showed me how to do this, but that was after weeks of finding nothing in the Knowledge & FAQs section - there is exactly 1 video on the Videos page that pertains to the Spider V amps but has nothing to with my questions, in the Spider V Forum days after I posted the same set of questions one kind respondent offered some interesting stuff but not what I'm asking about, and Customer Service was a couple of weeks of wasted time before I gave up - lots of What and zero How. Line 6 is just a puzzle to me. Love the product but after that it feels like we're kinda out here on our own. The steps BTW to creating "profiles" are very easy but not if you don't know how. I recently received an email from Line 6 inviting me, as a Spider V 120W amp owner, to download a "Major Spider V Firmware Update," Firmware 2.0. Sounds wonderful but given the last coupla months is it a threat or an opportunity?

I haven't done the switches on a POD but I have done similar switches before and generally its the spring inside that gets compressed and doesn't force the contacts down hard enough anymore. You can always try just expanding the springs a bit and a little contact cleaner. Don't overdo it though... The switches themselves don't usually fail but solder joints can occasionally crack. Here is a great article that shows everything you need to know. The spring advice is in the "HERE'S THE GOTCHYA:" section... http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f36/m9-m13-tricks-626972/index29.html This vid shows how to clean and lube the switches. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-JUStkzZ0I#t=2

Hola a todos soy nuevo ..me compre la PodHd500x .. la ingrese al sistema ( registre) y baje Software Monkey y software de autorizacion de Line6 .. a conecto todo y me instala todos los pack ..yo pense debe ser un error .. y contento por el hecho ... que no se,, el porque ..pero tengo todo Full Gratis