psarkissian

What gtrman100 said. @jlcleaver79,... Hope it's a good seal getting the panel back on again. Wouldn't want it to start rattling from secondary vibrations, causing air leak distortions through the cabinet seams. Has to be torqued just right. Wish you had told me ahead of time that you were going to open it.

Best advice,... Use the specified tubes, and have it properly biased by a Line 6 authorized service tech who knows the insides of these. Don't do it yourself, the high voltage hazard makes it a dangerous thing. Keep your fingers out of the insides of these. It really hurts if you get zapped.

Yeah, Hip Shot tuners are standard on the US versions. PUP's based on Duncan specs. We all know or met Duncan and chatted with him about pick-ups, and they do look a lot like his PUP's. US 59 body/neck is more hand worked and finished. One of Tyler's people has a shop out here where he does the US builds. He's really good, an old guitar guy like me. Asian ones, like the one in the photo, are good too. I have three of them from the early batch, two from early 2011 (Tobacco and Cherry) and Black one from 2013. All play great. The one you have now is Tobacco?

DT50's come that way, as they are a 16-Ohm load. DT25 should be the 8-Ohm as it usually is. Someone along the chain missed that one. Being that's you're in the UK, maybe force of habit. A lot of British audio gear back in the 60's and 70's had 16-Ohm as standard issue back then, and 8-Ohm was still a big thing here in the States,... the 120 verses 220 VAC systems between us. A gray gaffer like me, in the chain over there, who still thinks in 16-Ohms might have handled it along the way,... would be my educated guess.

Alt Tune is on momentary, long enough to find the position, then goes off once you found it. How hard it is to change a pick-guard depends on how much experience you have with this sort of thing. It can be a chore.

Thank you Kilrahi,... I remember your guitar on my bench. Very good. Glad I could help.

They are not Seymour Duncans, but they are made to James Tyler specs in the 59-series. It's modeled after the Duncan specs. Same pick-ups in the Asian and US version 59's.

https://line6.com/data/6/0a06434d90db507efbe5b36b9/application/pdf/DT25 Pilot's Guide - English ( Rev C ).pdf Page-5 of the manual, should be in the 8-Ohm. Probably no harm. Plugging a 4-Ohm speaker into there would.

https://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/caig-deoxit-d5s-6-spray-contact-cleaner--rejuvenator-5-oz/429167000000000?cntry=us&source=3WWRWXMP&msclkid=5b07bd2cf9a4157cc5e8e616df8c386a&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=[ADL] [MF] [Non-Brand] [PLA] [US] [Enhanced] [Shopping] - Generic&utm_term=1100506610782&utm_content=PLA - Product Type&kwid=bingproductads-adid^13788109092-device^c-plaid^1100506610782-sku^429167000000000@ADL4MF-adType^PLA Drip it in, don't spray it in. it just makes a mess.

Haven't had a problem with JTV and G50's. The internals of the G50 transmitter deal with that. It's an internal circuit thing. Just don't go using the G50 simultaneously with the VDI connection.

What he said. These are not amps from the good ole' days of yore. Don't go doing mods unless you have intimate knowledge about these amps. You have probably voided the warranty by opening it like that. I hope it doesn't rattle when you put the back, back on. If not, it may rattle if you put a 12" speaker in it. The speaker and cab dimensions are matched to one another. It has to do with tuned cavities and acoustic power. You just don't willy-nilly put a speaker into a box. And with modeling, it's even more crucial to calculate the acoustics of it, and match the speaker specs to the cavity dimensions. It's not rocket science, it's acoustical engineering. Speakers and cabinets in general have to be matched.

Use the Line 6 VDI Ethercon (25ft) cable with the Canon casings at each end.

All too often, product comes across my repair bench, and the only thing wrong with it turns out to be a control cable that isn't the CAT5 or CAT5e. Save yourself the money and aggravation of the so called exotic stuff and stick with the tried-and-true utility stuff,... the right cable for the right application. Everything else is as Bill Whitlock puts it, "B** and fairy dust", or pet rocks and pyramids to sharpen your shaving blades.

CAT7 is the incorrect cable to use for the data rate frequency of the FBV Shortboard MkII, for the same reason I stated earlier. For Line 6 products, use CAT5 or CAT5e,... everything else is expensively needless overkill that doesn't work, since it is outside the data frequency operational bandwidth of our product.

MIDI is used for Firmware updates and some MMC commands. For MIDI functions, check out Appendix A, for the MIDI commands, see if anything there helps for what you're trying to do. https://line6.com/data/6/0a060b316ac34f0594000d02c/application/pdf/M13 Advanced Users Guide - English ( Rev A ).pdf

Glad I could help.

The buffer stage before the pre-outs are also pre-amps. The tube power stage has pre's as well. You don't go high gain all at once, so there are two pre-amp tubes. Typical in such a configuration. It's a hybrid amp, pre stage out of the processor board, a pre stage for the input of the tube amp section.

What manual? Never seen this. Don't mess with it. stay out of the insides of it. The shock hazard is too dangerous. It really hurts when you get zapped.

Workbench HD is for JTV's with Flash v2.00 or higher. Workbench is for Flash v1.90 or lower, and older Variax guitars (300, 500, 600, 700).

https://line6.com/data/6/0a060b316ac34f0593d9cc37b/application/pdf/PODxt Manual - Version 3 - English ( Rev H ).pdf

Failed amp chip, old solder points,... hardware related. Needs to be serviced by an authorized tech who knows the insides. Caps? More than likely not. Not if it's gating.

Register the guitar, then log a support ticket in your account.

Sounds like it's time for its 50,000 mile check-up and servicing.

Those Artist models are for the Shuriken. Have to do some fancy Workbench work to get it to load into something else. Not certain that can be done.

Do not use a One Spot. Not on the guitars. Use the specified supplies for the specified devices.