Dutchguitarist

I found this a long time ago on this forum(the link does not exist anymore). If I remember correctly it was a WORD document and all I did was turn it into a PDF. Didn't change anything so I am sorry to have upset you. This wasn't my intention.

Here you go... ModelGallery (addon).pdf

Yes this should work. In fact there are multiple options to blend a distorted patch with a clean one. You could, for instance, also place the distortion AFTER the amp in either patch A or B or place the Amp itself in patch A or B. Check out the tonal differences and use whatever sound good to you.

Here is what I have found out so far: The POD HD can be used as a midi controller (with limited functionality being one automated message). When you switch patches on the POD HD it will always send a ‘program change’ message to the external device as well. By default, the POD will send a ‘program change’ message for each preset in a setlist (bank & preset per bank). M my POD is set to ABCD mode (so 4 presets per bank). If I understand the discussion on the line 6 forum correctly you need to set it to ABCD mode and NOT to FS 1-8) So what happens is that, for instance, preset 12A will send exactly the same program change message as preset 12A in another set. Now I am lucky because my external amp (Peavey Tubefex) support input mapping, so I can redirect every program change message to the desired preset on the Peavey. IF you cannot do this, you will need to duplicate the setting on the external device. Again, this is what I found out so far and to me it is no issue so far due to the input mapping options on the Peavey.

There are two options (I think), connect the tuner out to the Line in(at the back of the POD or connect the 'dry out' of the POD to the input on the back of the tuner (this is how I have done it with my KORT DTR-1 Tuner)

Forgot to mention this: in addition to my previous reply: What I described is based on using my POD HD PRO with a FBV shortboard (no MKII), So the POD itself is connected to the pre-amp, not the shortboard.

I was referring the findings of PFsmith0 here I realize now that he was only talking about other effects than compressors.

Didn’t see this post earlier but anyway here are my thoughts: I believe you can because in my setup I also use a midi controllable pre-amp (Peavey Tubefex) and use the POD HD to change the presets on the Peavey. Here is how I did this: The pre-amp is connected to the POD using the POD’s FX loop (send & return) You can set the desired send and return levels in the FX block. For controlling the pre-amp you will need a standard MIDI cable to connect the devices.(which is a standard 5-Pin MIDI cable). To send MIDI communication to another device, connect the MIDI cable from the POD’s MIDI OUT/THRU to the MIDI Input of the external device. You will need to set the POD in ABCD mode. Also you need to set the midi channel (1 to 16) which you will going to use to send messages. At the pre amp side you (obviously) need to ‘listen’ to that same channel. By default, the POD will send a ‘program change’ message for each preset in a setlist. Within any setlist the following program change commands are given(by default) Preset Program Change Value 1A 0 ​1B 1 ​1C 2 ​1D 3 2A 4 ​2B 5 ​2C 6 and so on.... You can edit these values on the device or in HD Edit. I expect that the ENGL will also recognize these messages. I suggest to hook you POD via midi to the ENGL, set up the correct midi channel and see what happens if you change patches. I think this will work.

I have chosen the closed back to eliminate background noise (I live in the city)

I use the DT770 as well, but on mine it says 250ohms instead of 80...

Most effects do lower the volume when switched on. I tend to compensate this with a StudioEQ if necessary. If I remember correctly someone made a list of all the effects and their impact on volume. Cannot find it at the moment though. (i'll keep searching)

For what it is worth: You asked for tone building for beginners, well I wrote such a guide maybe you find it useful:Beginners Guide Mind you it just covers the basics based on my personal experience

Yes you can solve the volume differences. Getting rid of volume differences between patches is a time consuming business. As a rule of thumb I start with the clean patch within a bank (I use ABCD mode) and use the dB meter from my Digital Audio Workstation (DAW) to set the initial volume, which should not exceed a recording level of -12dB because I need some headroom after recording. The other 3 patches are primarily done by ear but should not exceed the -10dB point preferably. If you want presets to be consistent in volume in respect to one another, you could monitor the volume of each preset with a dB meter and this will function to some extent. However there is something called perceived volume, in other words how do you hear it, so my advice is to use your ears for the related patches in the bank. Levelling patches across banks is a more difficult issue as amp models do not have the same initial volume. So if you are planning to use various amp models it is wise start with the one that is the quietest in volume and adjust the louder ones afterwards, because the other way around will simple not work (at least not that easy). Hope this helps.

What you describe sounds like digital clipping to me. So somewhere in the chain the signal is becoming too hot (too loud). This can happen almost everywhere in the chain. There are various steps to be taken to locate the source if this. So try this: Check the settings of input 2 and if is this is set to guitar or same, set it to either variax or mic. This way the signal strength is reduced. If the crackle has disappeared, you’re don, otherwise proceeds to the next step. Lower the volume of you guitar, the input signal maybe too much for the POD. You can also use the PAD switch to lower the input signal. Crackle gone, you done, if not, proceed. If you are using a FXloop in you chain: check the send and return settings. Still crackling: next step Switch off all effects in you patch, if the crackling noise is still there the amp settings need to be reviewed (especially the channel volume may be too high). Is the crackle still there go to next step. Check the mixer block settings. Lower the level parameters and check the results. Still crackle...next step. Lower Mastervolume. This is a physical knob. Set it for headphones around 12 o’clock and check the results. If the crackle is still present proceed to next step Start with all effects turned off. Engage each effect, one by one and check which one causes the crackle, if found: check the settings and lower the output volume if present. If you cannot find the effect causing the crackle it might be a combination of two or more effects that causes the crackle. I am sure there are some other steps to take, but other will definitely point these out.

Interesting, I know how to disable the cab, but I cannot figure out how to disable the mic. How did you do this. because I aways have a mic present (POD HD PRO) and it also affects the tone.

As a rule of thumb set input one to “guitarâ€, because the built in tuner is tied to input one only. Set input two to either “same†or to “micâ€. When you set input two to “mic†only input one is actually used, this will lower the input signal with roughly 6dB’s. So the input signal is less hot. Remember that if you only use input one there is no signal on that second path. So if you put an effect in this second pad it will not get a signal. To make it more complicated there are effects that are stereo preserving and other that “sum to monoâ€. After a sum-to-mono effect the second path will get a signal after all, because a mono effect will split the incoming signal in two output signals (of half the strength). Whether to set input two to guitar, same or mic is up to you, it depends on what you are trying to achieve. Use whatever you believe sounds best.

My take on this: The frequency range of an electric guitar goes from about 60Hz to about 1.2 KHz. From 1.2 KHz to 6 KHz there is the area where the harmonics live. Beyond 6 KHz there is nothing musical present. Given this it is a good idea to use Global EQ to cut all frequencies below 60 Hz and above 6 kHz. But, by all means, experiment. As always: adept don't adopt.

you're welcome, happy playing...

can't you upload the patch here so we have a better understanding of what is going on, It is a really strange noise (wouldn't call it hum/feedback)

As said, there is always a signal going to the chain. I use the "no amp" option regulary for acoustic patches where I do not want an amp to color the sound

... and what is it?

I can see that the general use of GEQ is either to adjust to a specific environment or to adjust to typical guitar characteristics: The frequency range of an electric guitar goes from about 60Hz to about 1.2 KHz. From 1.2 KHz to 6Khz there is the area where the harmonics live. Beyond 6 KHz there is nothing musical present. Given this it is a good idea to use Global EQ to cut all frequencies below 60 Hz and above 6khz. At least this is what I do for recording. This way unwanted signals will not be recorded and it will reduce hiss and fizz. Do play around with the upper and lower settings, especially with the low end as this can help to reduce muddiness.

I use the Beyerdynamic 770 Pro also and I agree, superior headphone

Well, just take a look at the advanced guide, everything you need to know is in appendix B: FVB Footcontrollers. (you can download this guide from the Line 6 website).

I don't think this will work because I believe MIDI in the POD HD is only used to control footswitches, pedal parameters and for loading banks/presets. So you will need to connect the midi keyboard to your soundcard. In cubase you simply create a MIDI track that will be used to record the midi signals from the keyboard.