MartinDorr

I think that by itself would be surprising to me because using pres does not imply any power amp or Cab the user may have. I could imagine though that using Line 6 Link to connect to a DT (which often implies that pres are used instead of full amp models) may change the Cab model because the HD may 'know' what the expected DT speaker is via Line 6 Link connection. Clearly wildly speculative, but I still think more likely than changing Cab models based on pre versus full model selection.

Valves/tubes and/or fuses are not that expensive (if that's the only thing broke). Fuse can also go when valve breaks to protect the amp. You did just mention the red light. Are any tubes lighting up by chance. Given that you have the amp 2+ years there is a good chance that you just need new tubes. Mine went after 1.5 years and the failure was just as you described ... working, StandBy on, a cuouple minutes later, StandBy off, ... quiet :-(. My broken tubes were glowing, fuses where fine, but no sound. Check tube glow first. If any light you may just need new tubes. Good luck!

Sorry, got confused (and excited of having overlooked a good feature) by several comments and speed reading. Nobody actually said that direct out works with LVM off. Makes sense given that a transformer would not do much when the power amp is in StandBy ... dah

My direct out signal dies off within a second when I switch to StandBy on DT25 combo with LVM off. It works fine with LVM on. Maybe my DT is broke ;-(.

I'd be curious to get confirmation whether direct out really works in StandBy mode on DT50 (or DT25). Just tried my DT25 and it does not ;-(. Maybe my FW update did not work?

I think you want to spend some time on good baseline measurement w/o an amp, cab, or mic. Next add the amp w/o cab/mic/ER ... add one modelling piece at a time so you can see their impact. I used BF double in the past for similar thing w/o successs (see below). Tried this route before with iPhone/iPad SignalScan SW and a Behringer AD/DA interface and found that I could not get a flat signal level through the HD in a pass-through setup (Guitar or Aux in) using sweep or noise input. I always got oscilations on the output no matter what pad/line, Bypass or Master volume setting I tried. SignaScan was set to generate a 0dBFS output signal, the Behringer produced a -20dBV analog signal. I ran 1 of the Behringer analog stereo out channels as reference back into the Behringer analog input to SignalScan and the other through the HD before coming back to the Behringer. Wrote my problems off as SignalScan probably being not up to the task, but looking forward to what you find. I also tried going out HD affect send or coming in with effect return and even going out to a DT via L6 Link (digital) and then tapping into the DT effect send with no preamp selected in the DT. All scenarios showed the same kind of oscilations. Sorry, no reason to recommend a specific amp, cab, or mic. I never made it to that point to have reasons for or against specific choices.

+1; similar experience here! I think there is little if any difference in sound between turning Channel Volume down on the DT w/o an HD or Master Volume down on the HD when connected to the DT while DT Master is left set for both cases. For American clean I have my HD Master at 10 o'clock for home use, DT Master at 3 o'clock, and my Volume pot on my JTV probably around 90% for single note lines. Within the HD I raise my JTV input signal by 9dB to get to a peak level of around -12dB throughout the model chain. My preamp channel volume in the HD is typically close to 100% for clean tones with Drive at 20-30% preserving a peak level of -12dB, i.e., the HD Master Volume takes over the role of the DT channel volume, I think. Can't say how well this translates to going directly into the DT. Martin

I have to admit I am playing with the same idea. Just tired to boost the guitar models with different gains to hit my target signal level out of the first model in the chain. There is easily a 9 dDB difference between by Spunk 4 and Lester 1. The rest, I think, falls somewhere in the the middle, but I did not check them all.

If you connect via L6 Link and use no amp model (bypass config) in path A in the HD the DTbdefaults to using channel B and you can use it to dial in the preamp settings you want on the DT. XLR should be fine unless its very long. If you want post amp effects (e.g., delay, reverb) not to go through the DT preamp you can use the DT effects loop and come back into your HD via AUX and use path B to add those effects while keeping the mixer panned hard left and right. Use path B output (can't remeber whether right or left) to connect to effects return on the DT. I think you may be able to send MIDI signals via L6 Link to control channel B configuration on the DT, but I do not know for sure or the details. If that would work you don't have to set the DT manually when you change patches. Good luck, Martin

Aajor subjectivity ahead ... From all I read about the Kemper (and Axe) I think the guitarists who already have or had gorgeous amps like the Kemper approach because it provides a fairly accurate model of any stomp/preamp/amp/cab/mic combo and expands the modelled gig's natural sensitivity to dynamic playing beyond what the physical gig can do (e.g., the Kemper provides more gain range, pick sensitivity, and other parameters) and some excellent effects, although not all what major players would want. My impression of the whole situation is that Pros use the Kemper to PLAY amps and they compromise on the Kemper effects or add external effects in front or in the effects loop (e.g., really nice reverbs and delays). On the other hand, the Pros use the Axe primarily for its superior effects and don't leave their real amps (or the Kemper ;-) at home. The HD does not quite play at the same level in either camp. Although that being said, the HD provides an incredible amount of value for the money when you spend the time to work it (and are OK with a few compromises). There is plenty of tone coming out of the HD making it worth to work on your personal contribution to the overall outcome. If I can ever afford it, I'll run my JTV into the HD500 and tie it to a Kemper with the 4-cable method. Maybe when I retrire ;-).

This 'sounds' really interesting. Will check a little more around on Thomann's. Thanks, Martin

Oh yes, too many acronyms. Yamaha DXR10 iswhat I meant ;-(. Sorry for any confusion, Martin

If you are looking for something close to the l2ts consider the Yamaha FRX10. It's a little cheaper (599.99), at least one player at the Kemper forum did a side by side and like them better than the l2t (I looked all over for a comparison/review, but could not find one), and they offer a little different set of options for inputs and connectivity if you think of possibly getting 2. There is a sale at Sweetwater where you get a 6 channel mixer 'for free' if you buy 2 ;-). I hate those ... Why don't they just lower the price for 2?

What is the recommended min distance between strings and PUs before they start to interact with string movement and impact piezos or themselves. Need to match piezo and magnetic volume and want to get PUs to optimal height before messing with model string volumes. Have a JTV69. Martin

+1 to all the above. I am planning on doing the same. My current monitor list is Yamaha HS5/8 Yamaha MSP5/7 Presonus e5/8 Havent decided on exact model and size yet. Excluded Rokit based scooped bass response. I am not in that kind of music wher this may be an advantage. No need for a mixer.

You may be able to set input 1 to whatever you currently have plus aux and inout 2 to same. Obviously this does not work if you need input 1 and aux on separate paths. It'll also up the level of your inputs by 6dB. You should be able to correct that in your first effect with reducing gain or if it's an amp with channel volume.

Thanks for all the feedback. Looks like an accumulation of web reviews and user opinions will put me in the Yamaha camp for the best price / value / sound ballance. The HS5s and HS8s got mentioned a lot, but I read even more good things about the MSP5/7s including from the Kemper camp using it with their profilers just like you would with an HD. Only other contenders are the Presonus e5/8s at a lower price point. Not so sure the savings are worth it I only have small room and are concerned that the larger speakers may emphasize the bass too much, but I may just worry about nothing and miss out on the lows the 7 and 8" speakers would produce. I may just have to order 2 pairs and swallow the return shipping $$s. Still not quite decided and collecting feedback though.

I have no intentions to gig with them (pure home use). Not sure whether to just focus on good, medium studio monitors or somewhat cheaper, but larger ones to get goo guitar sound support. Have no experience with studio monitors. I understand the love as I have done some comparisons in the local Guitar center and the l2s stood out in both clarity and sound dispersion. There stuido sound guy even liked them (grudgingly) because he was not a big fan of Line 6 equipment in general. Did not check out the Alto's as guitarno suggested. Thanks for feedback. Will see what others come back with other active speaker choices. Martin

Line 6's l2's seem a good sounding match but an expensive (and large) overkill, I think. What are currently the best options for a good sounding stereo home solution? Active studio monitors? Small stereo solid state amp with passive speakers? I realize there is lots of info spread throughout older threads. Looking for any new insight and/or experience on the topic. Thanks, Martin

CD/MP3 input seems the most straight forward approach to get what you want. Has line level in. Mix volume is controlled by external device (keyboard in your case) volume control. You probably want a 2 1/4" TS (from keyboard L/R) to 1/4" TRS cable to connect to CD/MP3 in on HD to keep stereo image. If you ever want HD500 effects on the keyboard I'd recommend to put the keyboard in the guitar input because it has a pad to make it better match the higher line levels of the keyboard out. Use the Aux in for guitar (same sensitivity as guitar in, but no pad). Make sure to follow the erlier posters advice on configuring the HD's input menu to match your use and pick a model path configuration that keeps the guitar separate from the keyboard for independent processing until you are ready to mix. Good luck, Martin

No matter what you use to measure, be aware that you get soft compression and mild, non-digital sounding distortion from all preamps and half a dozen effecst I measured way before you hit clipping levels. My recommendation is to stay away from any peaks exceeding -12dBFs or analog equivalents. Impact at -9dBFS peaks is measurable, but probably not easily detected by ear. Obviously if you want a little soft compression, go for it and push your peaks higher ... Martin

For me the DT25 is alread plenty heavy. In retrospect I should have bought a separate amp and cab, but if you think already about having a cab of move, a combo may be a better choice so you drag one less piece around. Can't talk about how far the DT25 volume wil go in 'small' venues.I have never been able to use all its volume, but my use is really small (others report it is fine for mid size clubs and using its direct out or a mic to a house system is a better way to expand while keeping your hearing ... Some here on the Forum use the combo and a cab and are very happy about sound combination and general usablility of this 'stack'. Unless you already have a cab, I would not buy a DT25 combo AND a cab right away. Check what you got with the combo (or separate amp and cab) alone first. Can't talk to Amplifi. May do the job for you, but seems to be more geared towards the hobby croud (having said that, there is nothing wrong with that as long as it does what you want, and Amplift is easier to deal with sound programming wise, I think). I am sure others will chime in ... Good luck and enjoy (I do mine), Martin

I thought reading something way back that S/PDIF does not work if USB is connected (because it provides digital output/input). Just a vague memory; could be something totally different ... Good luck, Martin

Make sure you have no Line 6 Link cable plugged in the back. If you do Channel A is listening for digital signals from an HD. If this is not it, try a DT reset (pull Type switch down and tube selector up (to pentode) while turning DT power on). No clue otherwise, but seems a strange way to break.

Get latest DT FW (update with Monkey via MIDI; I used a Cakewalk UM-3G, others work too, but some don't; check postings) Get DT editor (free down load from a gifted user) to program your reverb Alternatively ... I believe I saw a post that explained how to do it with MIDI message generated by the HD, but i don't recall details Download DT MIDI Implementation chart from L6 user documentation pages to see what MIDI messages can do for you on the DT I think there is also a way to use an iPhon and a MIDI interface to achieve similar functions, again, I don't recall details