codamedia

They released it and told us it was a limited version... then they told us they would do a full release late in the 2nd quarter. This gives them until Jun 21st to deliver. Before I bought my HX Effects I did my homework and knew all of this. I can't speak for everyone, but I am glad they released a limited version so I could load IR's and backup my HX. Those are the two things I cannot do from the HX itself, so IMO - those are the two most important things to deliver quickly, and L6 did! Beyond that, the editor will just be a graphical version of the HX itself. Although that will make it easier for "some people" to program the HX, it is not a necessity for the HX to operate. As for the OP's problem... I think the suggestion by phil_m is the best route to try.

I thought about mentioning the Input Z... but I didn't bother because I thought the default was 10M. Your're right, the default is auto making this is a very important step... thanks for the heads up.

I am pretty sure the line level on the HX is +4... but I only base that on using it in my home studio. FYI: The line levels (-10 & +4) are compatible with each other as long as their is an input/output levels to accommodate. The HX has all kinds of ways to accommodate input/output levels to match gear. Line/Instrument level just puts you in the right ballpark to get started. Caveat: When I think about this, you may need to use both loops in a 4CM. I think the loops (send/returns) are adjusted as a pair and you need instrument level going into your amp at the start. Example: Guitar > HX Input (instrument level) > HX SEND 1 (instrument level) > Amp Input > Amp Send > HX RETURN 2 (line level) > HX Output (line level) > Amp return

Sorry about the silly ending to my post. I was trying to explain how I use the Variax but it read more like a biography so I gave up. I'll try again today. I'm a part time professional. I don't do it full time anymore, but I still hit the road a few times a year and try to keep busy around town with multiple gigs and studio work. Since the mid 80's I've been locked in the country scene, but I play rock and pop gigs as well. I was a child of the late 70's punk scene so nothing scares me :) I bought a used Variax 300 about 8 years ago to test the waters. I loved the tonal capabilities, but the neck on the 300 didn't do it for me so I replaced that with a tele neck. For the most part I use it in specialty situations. I may pick it up for 1 song, I may pick it up for 10 - it depends on the show. When I need to bounce between banjo, acoustic and electric song to song, or even within a song I will play the Variax. When I can see a long list of electric songs coming up I tend to grab one of my primary guitars. I may prefer my other guitars, but I don't think twice about playing my Variax. I hook mind up through my HD500 with a VDI cable. This allows me to change patches on the Variax by simply programming it into my HD patches. I can go from a banjo to an ripping lead solo with one push of a button.

The Variax is a specialized product.... but it is certainly used at the PRO level if that is part of what you are asking. John McFee (Doobie Brothers), Corey Churko (Shania Twain/Kelly Clarkson, Steve Howe (Yes), Richie Castellano (Blue Oyster Cult) all use a Variax as part of there regular setup. Right there is a diverse set of usage.

I use my HD as "effect only" all the time... I find it very transparent all long as I keep the gain structure in order. Just a few things to watch for.... 1: Make sure all amp/cab/mic modeling is off 2: Set the output mode is set to "Direct/Studio" (or whatever it is called) 3: Turn your Global EQ OFF! It will only get in the way unless you have a particular need for it 4: Watch your gain structure. Effects ON/Off/BYPASSED should all be in the same ballpark. 5: Set your output (switch on the top of the unit) is set to AMP Good luck...

Any external pedals would be part of LOOP 1, LOOP 2 or a combination of both. The LOOP's can be turned on/off either by snapshot or assignable to a footswitch... If you are asking if the HX Effects can turn your external effects on/off separately.... it is only possible if they are midi capable. It won't work with an every day stomp box.

Do you have access to an older POD (XT or X3)? A friend, or at a local music store? If so, give the VOX Normal Channel a try... it should be the same model, with just a slight variance caused by the global differences between an HD and older POD.

I own the Vintage pack in question... and as a VOX AC30 owner/player for decades I can say that the AC30 Normal Channel in the Vintage pack is excellent. Just like on the real deal, I reach for the normal channel before the top boost model. If you are concerned about not getting usage from the other amps.... well, we are all a little different but I have found some other gems in that pack. The acoustic amp is very nice if you play any acoustic instruments through the HD. I play acoustic, dobro, mandolin and banjo - and use the acoustic amp on all of them. The Pete Anderson Deluxe is the reason I initially bought the pack. It is a hot rodded, beefed up BF Deluxe Reverb.... absolutely incredible. Now the down side.... I could be wrong about this, but I don't think any of these models are full blown HD models... I think they are older models (POD 2, XT, X3) re-packaged for HD compatibility. That doesn't stop me from recommending it... I'm just pointing it out. HD500x is still available in the stores... it's a great "lower cost" option to the Helix and IMO, still a viable product. I can't see L6 giving away the packs any time soon... but I would like to be wrong about that :)

Yes.... Line 6 does need to hear about users complaints. But you do realize this is a "user forum" don't you? Line 6 provides these forums so we can help each other... this is not their official support channel. That is why there are people here that are irritated by your threads... they are trying to help you - but you continue by opening yet another post about the same problem. If you take a look at the forums when you first come in there is a STICKY near the top. "Why is Line 6 not responding?".... maybe you should have read that if your intent was to get L6 is listen.

IMO... as I said earlier, you've got a good handle on how it all works. I suggest you hook things up the way you want and see how it sounds. There may be one or two things that don't respond as you expect... but that normal. Just more them around until they sound good - LOL!

The Variax already sounds like a "mic'ed up acoustic"... it should sound very realistic in a full range setup with a flat EQ! Just tweak a little to taste. I've never had to drastically alter EQ on the acoustics just a little cut/boost here or there usually does it. They are however, a full body sound... so if you are used to some jingle in the top end you will have to lower some lows and add some highs... but that's the same with a nicely mic'ed up acoustic! That enhanced high end you hear on many pop/rock/country recordings is not the natural sound of an acoustic - you use EQ to get that sizzle - but just a little extra highs and a little less lows will get you there. ^^^ This ^^^ I don't know if my description is accurate or not... but I find the tone UP it is similar to putting a mic at the 12th fret (tighter sound), while turning the tone down is closer to pointing a mic at the sound hole (boomier).

The HD500 wants to see a TS connection with a 10K pot.

There is no right or wrong here... You seem to have a grasp of all your options, I would suggest you just organize the pedals the way you want them and see how it works. If it were me... I might try placing the outboard pedals in Loop 1 with the 4CM to keep the DA/AD conversions to a minimum and to keep Loop 2 open for other options. EG: Loop 1 send > Overdrives > amp in > amp send > modulations > Loop 1 return. NOTE: that option is dependent on your amps "send/return" levels. Your overdrives will definitely work going into the amp, but you may need to return directly to the HX then put the mods in LOOP 2.

By default, most midi devices will "send" and "receive" on all midi channels (aka: omni mode) so things just work when they are opened. However, it is always best to setup discreet midi channels for each device.... and set GLOBAL to a discreet channel as well (I always set all of my devices GLOBAL in/out to channel 16... then use channels 1 - 15 for everything else ). Once you have done that cross talk between devices and unexpected behavior becomes a thing of the past. I don't have the pedal you have, so I can't give a step by step on setting it up... but I will try to point you in the right direction. To start... I would set the Whammy to communicate on one particular channel. Then whenever you want the HX Effects to talk to the Whammy... you will set the HX controller to communicate on that channel. Your HX Effects solutions should be in the "Command Center". You should be able to setup an "Instant" message that occurs when you change a patch or snapshot... or you should be able to setup a "stomp foot switch" to do what you need. If you are new to using MIDI it takes a bit to wrap your head around it... but it's really powerful once you figure it out.

Earlier you mentioned Long and McQuade.... THEY HAVE TO BE EXPERTS with the Helix! They are the Canadian Distributor, Canada's largest music store, and the only place(s) in Canada to buy the product. Sure - there will be employees that know it better than others... but it it is their job! It is one thing to carry the product, it is completely different when you are the distributor and the only game in the country! I can assure you that in my city.... there is staff in each L&M store that could help you solve your problem. I'm not saying every staff member can help you, but there is staff in each store that can. I'm sure Long and McQuade head office along with Line 6 would be thrilled by this!

OK - your in Canada? Can I ask where you are located... and which L&M isn't trained on this product enough to help you.

I agree that "cablab" is a great tool... but I doubt it solves the problem here. The OP wants to plug the Helix in, turn it on and get great tones. Cablab adds more complexity and deep editing into the hands of the user. Wonderful for the power users, way over the head of the casual user or new user.

The hours spent learning the Helix must be offset with your knowledge of the amps and pedals within the Helix. 60 hours is not a bad amount of time to learn how to work the device, but navigating the Helix is just the beginning! If you don't know how the amps, pedals, mics and speakers that are emulated work you really have just scratched the surface of time required. The Helix is dozens of amps and more than 100 effects. If you rented that much diverse gear from a music store do you think 60 hours would be sufficient time to really figure it out?

This is very common. Sound tech's (live and studio) rarely mic the center of a cone, it's far to bright and unnatural sounding. The mic is almost always somewhere between 1/2 cone and cone edge. If you are using stock cabinets you need to work with the cabinet "hi cut" and mic placement/distance to get the most out of them.

Count me in on not fully understanding the question. I think this touches on it... but I'm just assuming. https://line6.com/support/topic/21966-sound-on-sound/

Thank you for this little piece of information. I made the ill conceived "assumption" that CAT6 would be fine... (I have edited my post)

If the guitar itself works, and if the interface suggests a good connection.... the guitar is not likely the problem. This may sound silly, but are you sure it isn't connecting? When you open workbench does it throw an error or does it show the "interface". If it shows the interface... click on it. Does it throw an error, or does the guitar load on the computer. I ask this because I recall struggling when I first got my 300. The initial error was that I wasn't finished setting up... I needed to choose a connection. Workbench showed my 300 and my HD 500. I naturally clicked on the 300 and it failed to load! I though for sure it was broken, until I clicked on the HD500... then the Variax loaded without a problem. That was very counter intuitive until you really read the screen. It is not asking what you want to connect to, it is asking what the guitar is connecting through. Once you connect once Workbench always uses that connection without asking. The other possible problem is simply a dirty VDI port. Did the interface come with a nice cable to use... or are you using a standard ethernet cable. The latter requires a CAT5 or CAT5e cable, and an ethernet end does not "lock in" to the guitar securely and often loses it's connection. If it is a proper cable with the interface you may need to clean the VDI output on the guitar. Get some good cleaner (deoxit or siilar... NEVER WD40) and spray the cable end. Insert it several times into the guitar... repeat as necessary. A basic (non comprehensive) test of the VDI port is to see if it powers the guitar. Take all batteries out of the guitar, plug in the VDI port with the interface and make sure the interface is powered up. Now - plug in a "standard guitar cable" to an amp (not a TRS) and see if you get sound? If you do, the VDI is supplying power so it is "likely" good. (NOTE: The guitar may have a high pitch squeal with this test... that is normal) Good luck!

If you want to find more about this... the Google search phrase is "Variax Transplant"... there is plenty of information and images. You need a lot more than just the saddles... you will need the entire Variax electronics. Since the electronics are not sold separately you would have to sacrifice an actual Variax guitar. Then you need to do a major routing job on the telecaster to support the electronics - essentially sacrificing (in value) another guitar. IMO: Most Variax retrofits were done when the Variax didn't have magnetic pickups. Now that the JTV and Standards are available there is little need to transplant.

As phil_m suggests... try using a PRE model. Before adding any additional effects just dial in a tone with the amp model.... get a good feel for it just as you would a normal amp. I don't know if this relates to you or not... but if you have a problem with "harsh models" are you sure it's the Helix... and not inherent of the amp style itself? With Line 6, if you know how the original amp/effect operates, it makes it much easier to understand. Line 6 has done a remarkable job over the years keeping the amp settings "realistic" to the original amps - but many users don't know that. With the original POD (1999) Line 6 explained this in great detail, but I haven't seen it mentioned in later documentation which is a real shame. One example of this is the Hiwatt: If you choose a Hiwatt model and set the controls at noon you will send dogs screaming in pain and likely cause your eardrums to close tight - LOL. People that have owned Hiwatts already know this... but many Line 6 buyers likely just think the Hiwatt model is terrible while in reality it's very good... if you know how to dial it in! The same applies to many of the overdrive effects as well.