rd2rk
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Everything posted by rd2rk
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One of the nice things about modelers is that if you REALLY LIKE that super saturated power tube distortion, you can dime that sucker and neither go deaf nor be arrested. And you'll NEVER have to spend $250 for a matched quad of EL34's to re-tube your Marshall!
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Since the problem seems to be getting the RC505 to work with MIDI (Helix can likely send whatever you need), you should try here for help: Boss RC-505 Looper (vguitarforums.com)
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I don't have an RC505, but I took a quick look at the manual. First, to get MIDI from Helix to the RC505 you need to connect Helix MIDI out to the RC505 MIDI in. Make sure that the RC505 and Helix are set to the same MIDI Channel. By default, the Helix BASE channel is set to 1. Be sure that this matches in the RC505 System Settings. It sounds like that is already set, if the RC505 is syncing Helix to it's tempo. You might look into these settings depending on which device you want to provide the tempo. Then you need to ASSIGN CC#s to the RC505 functions you want to control. Then you need to assign those CC#s to Helix footswitches. Since Start/Stop/Rec functions appear to be separate, I THINK you would need to use simple (non-toggling) CCs. Alternatively, you can try using the MMC commands. Switch ON/OFF functions would likely use Toggling CCs, but might use MOMENTARY CCs. I didn't spend THAT much time with the manual. Calling RC505 phrases is done using PC (program change) #s 1-99. Again, assign these to footswitches. Hope this helps.
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Yep, that's the way. You can use any number of expression pedals, and some volume pedals will do double duty. I got the Mission Engineering SP1-L6H to use with my HX Stomp. High end of the price range but excellent build quality. Is there some reason you don't want to contact support for a repair? Even if it's out of warranty they'll fix it as it's a known issue.
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Doesn't work that way. Just put the Crybaby between the guitar and Helix, same as with any normal pedal board.
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Known issue. Contact support and they'll fix you up!
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All of the MIDI CC#s and the method for accessing the presets above 127 using Bank Change messages are detailed on page 23 of the manual. Bypass is CC#102. If you assign that CC# to a toggling Footswitch that will give you the ability to Bypass the Big Sky. Or, you can simply (if that's the only device in the FX Loop) assign a normal Bypass to the FX Loop Block. Same thing without MIDI. You can select different presets within a Helix preset by assigning the PC# to Instant Command 1, with different PC#s saved for each Snapshot.
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If you have an LT or Floor you can use CommandCenter to assign Bypass and Snapshot, but unless you've got a MAC DAW (AAX?) you won't be able to switch presets.
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The quickest easiest way is to put it in the FX Loop and turn it on. Somehow, I suspect that you had something more complex than that in mind. Perhaps if you were able to transfer those ideas to my mind, I might be able to help? Sorry if that comes across as snarky, but if you search this forum you'll find that you're not the first ever to use a Big Sky with Helix. I'm sure that I've been through this at least once, a long time ago, but it's possible that your desired application could be different. Or it could have been a different Strymon pedal whose use I addressed, though the details would likely be the same. Search for "Strymon", then provide details? And if you have a gig in <6hours, you might want to go with what you know and come back tomorrow for this.
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Insert an Audio track. Expand the track so that you can see the FX Rack. Drag Native to the FX Rack.
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The REAL (sonically neutral) power amp is not. It's voiced to sound best with all of the pre-amps. The modeled TUBE power amp section is not. It's voiced to sound best with all of the pre-amps. There's six pre-amps and ONE power amp. The FX loop Return is between the selected pre-amp and the power amp. You can choose to place effects BEFORE the pre-amp (pre) of after (post). Placing them in the POST position also places them AFTER the FX Loop.
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The age of your laptop is not really relevant, and 4 years is not old for this application. An i5 with 8gb should be sufficient. Even an i3 might work. The main thing to consider is that latency is dependent on sample rate, which is largely processor dependent. the maximum I've found playable is 128spls. that should get you <>10ms, the amount that is the border for most people to detect. More than that you won't like. If you hear pops/crackles/dropouts you need a higher sample rate (more latency) or a better computer. Scarlett Solo or Duo, 2nd or third gen as PierM said. Behringer makes even cheaper (nearly) identical AIs (Euphoria). They're called Euphoria because that's how Uli feels when he looks at his bank account, bloated from pirating other companies designs. Just sayin'. VERY IMPORTANT!!! PierM mentioned that his laptop is optimized for use with a DAW. Just about every AI mfr has a section on their website dedicated to optimizing your PC for audio. I think L6 has a page about it in FAQs. DO IT! It'll save you posting here about how it doesn't work right.
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Like you I had never noticed this hum before, and when I saw your post I said "huh?" Today I was re-doing my presets and when I got to the Litigator there was the loud hum. After messing around with amp settings as others here suggested I moved to the Powercab. One click to a different preset and back - HUM BE GONE! Down the list got to the Ventoux - there's that damned HUM! Same cure. Back to Litigator - HUM - switch PC preset and switch back - HUM BE GONE! I got no clue what's going on, yet ANOTHER randomly recurring Powercab bug. There's no point talking to support, they have no clue, and the "Powercab Team" still refuses to communicate, despite having said that they were looking into what they could do about all of the problems. That was 4 weeks ago. If you're not aware of this ongoing fight, there's a thread over on TGP called "Powercab Future". EDIT: It seems that this may have had something to do with using MIDI to call the Powercab Speaker presets without turning OFF Remote in the Powercab screen. That being a GLOBAL setting it places you in an either/or situation. Not ideal, but it worked. Also, when I cranked up the Powercab Output Level, there was a whole 'nother level of hum on those (and some other) amps that was fixed by turning off RIPPLE.
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Hi PerS - Thanks for trying this and yes, I meant HF Trim. You got the expected results. It seems that, as others have said, this is mainly a problem with the PC212+. Over on TGP we managed to get someone at L6 to confirm that there actually IS a Powercab Team, and that our message has been received. That was 4 weeks ago. Still waiting for a response from the L6 Powercab Team. NOT holding my breath.
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Yes, as it's easier to configure the PC+ with PC Edit, it's easier to configure L6 Link with HX Edit. Working directly from the hardware only seemed to make a difference with PC Edit. The settings on Helix always matched the settings in HX Edit. Amazing how they managed to get HX Edit so right, and PC Edit SO wrong!
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Hi PerS - Thanks for your interest in this. You're very brave! It's my impression from what others have said that this is mainly an issue with the PC212+, but happy to hear your results. #6 is only there for comparison to #7, to be certain that there's no difference between calling the mode by MIDI or L6 Link. When testing, do not use PC Edit, place your cab so that you can see the display. Place the display in GLOBAL mode and scroll down to LF Trim. There's a timer, so you'll probably have to hit the GLOBAL button a couple of times during the test. It will stay on the LF Trim setting. As you switch snapshots, hit a big old power chord and turn the LF Trim setting to MAX (+12db). If the tweeter is ON you'll hear a big difference. It should be OFF in all modes except SS1 (Flat/FRFR), SS6 (UserIR MID) and SS7 (UserIR Lnk). If when raising/lowering the LF Trim you hear a difference in the other modes, there's the problem. In the preset I used a relatively high gain amp because this is most noticeable with high gain. When I had the PC112+ I was blissfully unaware of the problem, either because it WASN'T a problem, or I just didn't keep the cab long enough to notice. At this point I wish I'd kept the PC112+ along with buying the PC212+, as it would have made the perfect companion to the Catalyst 100 that I just got. BTW the Catalyst sounds GREAT, and with the XLR out to the PC212+ in Flat/FRFR mode it sounds HUGE even at 70db (apartment level). If the Cat was capable of stereo when connected to two cabs (like the Katana) it would be perfect, but for the price, I'm not complaining! Elsewhere I've posted a set of presets for use with Helix. It's a great combination. As for beating myself up over this, it remains to be seen if the "fix" remains consistent over time. One of the big problems we've had in documenting this is that the problem sometimes appears to be random. Random problems are THE WORST!
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Along with a few others I've been going on about the HF Trim not working right. One of the L6 folks asked me to post a demo preset. Since my previous test presets were based on my normal kitchen sink configuration, I decided to build one from scratch with nothing but the basics - Amp and Helix Cab. So here it is. But there's a problem. Everything is working exactly as it should! Baffled, I revisited my original test preset. Everything is working exactly as it should! I suspect that this is due to my having recently re-flashed the FW. Something else I noticed while testing was that not having the PC Edit app open seemed to make a difference. I've always tested with it open in the past due to the difficulty of looking at the little LED screen on the Powercab's top rear panel and having to spin the HF Trim dial 100 times vs using the slider in the app. Apparently, I was shooting myself in the foot. The PC Edit app DOES SUCK! Anyway, for anyone else who's been having fits over this, try the preset. It uses L6 Link and it has 7 snapshots: 1) HX Cab - Flat/FRFR 4x12 Greenback 25 2) CabLF Flat - Flat/LF Flat 4x12 Greenback 25 3) CabLF Raw - Flat/LF Raw 4x12 Greenback 25 4) Speaker - emulation controlled from L6 Link with the Powercab Output Block settings 2xGREEN 5) PC Spkr Pr - this is the factory speaker preset 002 (Green) 6) UserIR Mid - Allure 67 Brit Greenback called via MIDI 7) UserIR Lnk - Allure 67 Brit Greenback called via L6 Link If it turns out that the problem was due to the FW having gotten wonky over time I'm going to feel REALLY stupid. I'll also have a LOT of homework to do tracking down and updating all of my previous negative posts. OUCH! Let me know how this works for you! PC HF Trim Test.hlx
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This is a Setlist containing 7 presets. The first 6 Presets each call one of the 6 Catalyst Banks. This demo was configured using the Catalyst Factory Presets. The Stomp Mode switches are set up (ON/OFF) to reflect that. As you create your own Catalyst Presets you'll need to set those up as required. Stomp Mode contains 5 switches for Helix FX and 3 switches for Catalyst Boost, Effect and Reverb. There's also 2 switches (snapshots) to select the Catalyst Channel. This was created on a Helix Floor in 10 FS Stomp Mode and 8 Preset Preset Mode. If you have an LT you'll lose the Channel Switches in Stomp Mode so you'll need to set Preset Mode to Snap/Preset to get those back. The last preset calls MANUAL Mode and has a Snapshot that loads a Helix Amp and turns OFF the FX Loop. I've deleted my original files. The more I used them the more "GOTCHA" type glitches I found. This method is much more reliable (so far :-) ) Catalyst.hls
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"Hey you! You with the mop and the bucket! Come over here!" "Yes Master, how may I serve you?" "This forum is a mess! I want you to clean it up!" "But Master, I'm not done with the Powercab!" "Don't give me any lip! Just clean it up!" "Yes Master" Right away!" Dumps mop bucket on Forum Server. "Will there be anything else Master?"
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1) In regard to the following - make no assumptions. JUST DO IT! 2) DL and install HX Edit 3.15. 3) Do a factory reset. If that doesn't fix it: 4) Re-flash your FW using the Line6 Updater, the latest version of which installs with HX Edit. FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! 5) FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS! 6) See 1) 7) If, after having done all of that while FOLLOWING THE DIRECTIONS, contact support. There's nothing anyone here can do for you.
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Here's an example preset for HXS for toggling the A/B channels. It takes two Snapshots and one Stomp Mode FS. The preset loads SS1 which calls Bank1 ChA. SS2 calls ChB. The FS uses Press/Release to call "NEXT" Snapshot in SS1; it calls "PREV" Snapshot in SS2. To do this in Helix you'd use the Ext Amp switch to switch the Channels. CatHxsAB Sw.hlx
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I tried it just to see if it did anything. It didn't. But, since the HXS doesn't have a MODE SWITCH per se (it's called VIEW), perhaps I'm not using the MIDI message properly. I tried it as a toggling CC (127/0). When it was working for you, how were you using it?