rd2rk

So, you say your Pentium II computer with 512kb of memory is having trouble running a DAW on Windows 95? The best latency you can get at 2048 samples is 3 minutes and 15 seconds RT with lots of poopy static? :-) :-) :-) :-):-) Jorge, DUDE! Give us some details, we MIGHT be able to make some suggestions!

Attach a copy of one the offending presets (the worst) so we can hear the problem and look for a solution.

With the studio monitors connected to the Helix XLR Outs: In Global Settings - Ins/Outs, set USB 1/2 Destination to XLR. Connect 1/4" Outs to your amp. Set the Volume knob to control whichever (not sure of the options on the LT).

My "office" laptop is an 8gb/256gb ssd/i5-2410m. I occasionally run Native on Reaper for practicing with backing tracks, and it BARELY manages 128spls without crackles. That's 20ms RT latency, which is nearly unusable. I usually use my HX Stomp with this setup. Works great for email though....... My "studio" laptop is a 16gb/500gb ssd-/i7-7500U. I run Native alongside multiple synth and drum sims, but still only get crackle free performance with 128spls, albeit with 12ms RT latency. I can get down to 64 spls and 7ms if all I'm running is Native or a single synth, but what fun is that? Fortunately I keep my HX Floor in the studio so not a problem. Indeed, this is NOT a cheap hobby! I just need to win the lottery so I can trade my Alesis eDrums for a top end Roland set, and get a high end hardware synth.......I CAN....I WILL....keep on dreaming......

Quick look at the ML5 manual inclines me to think not. 1 IN 1 OUT limits you to using 1 HX FX Loop.

No, there's no magic check box but you could just turn off everything else in the signal path. If you need to A/B, while developing the preset assign all devices to a single stomp button. Assign/clear bypass assignments as required. You could also use snapshots like this.

Exactly! But in a world where people claim to be able to feel/hear the 2-4ms difference between a $2000 interface and a $200 interface, subjective is the word!

When you play directly through a purely analog signal chain, the electrons are traveling at the speed of light, and the only latency is the amount of time that it takes the sound to reach your ears at the speed of sound. Add just one digital device, like a reverb or delay, you've introduced latency, which may affect your perception of pick attack, dynamics etc.. Now add to the signal chain multiple AD/DA conversions such as occur in the hardware Helix with FX Loops and such. This may affect your perception of pick attack, dynamics etc.. The plugin is subject to latency in excess of the amount of latency in the hardware, possibly further affecting your perception of the immediacy of pick attack, dynamics etc.. Does that bother you when using Native? Get the Helix hardware. Does the latency of the Helix hardware bother you? You can still buy analog effects, pedalboards and amplifiers. IOW - the answer to your question is entirely subjective. Sometimes I THINK I feel a difference. But, as cruisinon2 just said, if I were blindfolded.....

The Line6 "Wish List" is called Ideascale. Post your idea and people can then vote on it. Since there are LOTS of ideas (search before posting), not all of them get developed. As a result, cynics and sore losers like to say that L6 doesn't pay attention, but some of the ideas posted there ARE implemented, so give it a shot! https://line6.ideascale.com/a/index

Although I had a different configuration, I had that exact noise. Put one of these between the Helix and your monitors. https://smile.amazon.com/Compact-Mini-Hum-Eliminator-Box/dp/B00BARTW3I/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hum+eliminator&qid=1569859239&s=electronics&sr=1-5

When I got my Tweaker 15-112 I also picked up a .44 Magnum as a backup - tubes being the fickle creatures they are. I'd never tried it and when I saw this post i got curious so I pulled it out and hooked it up. WOW is that thing LOUD! I'd read that they start to distort if you crank them over 1/2 way, but I can't see that happening with the Tweaker's 50 watt (16 ohm) Celestion, and I have every confidence that it'll handle a second 16 ohm cab EASILY!. It did get me thinking about a Quilter or Powerstage with it's own tone stack.....

I know you don't want to hear this. The truth sometimes hurts. But here goes.... Your tech is ancient. Donate it to some charitable org. You can't even sell it for a price worth the time it would take to list it on Craigslist. Your functional studio machine is one generation of OS/apps from joining the other two. For modern music production: MINIMUM processor i5 - preferably i7. MINIMUM memory 16gb. Solid State on board OS HD - MINIMUM size 258gb. External mechanical HD (for storing recordings/samples etc) 1TB 7200rpm Windows 10 OPTIMIZED for audio production (google it), and keep it updated, but ALWAYS set restore points so you can roll back the OS if MS Update hoses something. If any of the above sounds like geek-speak, study up! Again, sorry if my advice sounds harsh, but you're wasting your time on those ancient systems. You're better off transporting your working studio laptop back and forth between home and studio until you can afford to update your home system, or better yet, get one modern system for the studio and use your present studio laptop for your minimal home needs.

How about this? The gain blocks are there just for a low DSP way to split the paths. SteveJohns.hlx

Same applies, just different cable and Global settings - MIDI instead of MIDI over USB. IOW - I still don't understand your problem - what EXACTLY are you trying to do, and what EXACTLY is it that doesn't work? If you're trying to change Snapshots independently on both Helix, you'll likely need to use two MIDI tracks in Ableton so that you can set each Helix to a different MIDI Channel. You didn't provide useful details like what sort of MIDI Interface you're using, so I can't make any suggestions about best cabling routing. Also, be aware that although IN THEORY you can use 50' or longer MIDI cables, using over 20' you may need higher quality cables than typical store-bought.

Problem was I'd put a cab where the IR should go, forgetting that HXFX can use IRs but not cabs. Your IR goes between the second FX Loop Block (FX Loop 2) and the Output Block. Make sure both FX Loops are ON. Here is, as simple as I can make it, the wiring: Guitar to HX Input HX FX Loop 1 Send to Amp Input (set to Instrument Level) Amp FX Loop Send to HX FX Loop 1 Return FX Loop 2 Send to Amp FX Loop Return (set to Line Level) Amp Speaker Out to Load Box Speaker In Load Box Speaker Out to Speaker Load Box LINE OUT to HX FX Loop 2 Return HX 1/4" Out to DI to FOH/Board/Powered FRFR Speaker If you're still not getting sound, give me the model info on the amp and load box and I'll try to figure out the problem. 4cm ldbx IR FOH.hlx

Looks like it should work if all the sends and returns are the same (line?) level.

Probably the xlr on the output block. I’ll fix it later when i get home. It’s just a distotion, fx loop 1, reverb, fx loop 2 and output block.

Press and hold scrolls. Either you're holding the switch down too long, or the switch is sticking, or the BOSS switch is not really compatible. I have a tiny little MOSKY "Dual Switch" ($20 on Amazon) that works great.

From the HRD Manual: "D. VOLUME: Adjusts volume of NORMAL channel." "L. MASTER: Use to adjust loudness of the DRIVE and MORE DRIVE channels in conjunction with DRIVE (F)." So, If you're using the HRD Preamp section "NORMAL" (CLEAN) Channel, your signal is going into the "INPUT 1" (no pad) jack from the Helix 1/4" Out or a Helix FX Loop Send (4 cable method). The amp expects a GUITAR (instrument) level signal at the INPUT 1 (or 2) jack, so whether you're going direct from the 1/4" out or from a Helix FX Loop Send (4 cable method), you want that output/send set to INSTRUMENT. CLARIFICATION: If you're plugged into an INPUT jack on the amp, the Helix Output should be set to INSTRUMENT LEVEL. The signal is going from Guitar to Helix to the HRD NORMAL CHANNEL (Channel Indicator Light = OFF!). The amp's VOLUME knob is your amp's VOLUME KNOB. Set the Helix BIG KNOB full up (UNITY) or in "Global Settings - INS/OUTS" set "VOLUME KNOB CONTROLS" to XLR. That sets the 1/4" Out to UNITY by default. The HRD's MASTER knob appears to be misnamed. It's not an AMP MASTER VOLUME at all, it's the DRIVE CHANNEL VOLUME. This knob should have no effect UNLESS the amp is on the DRIVE CHANNEL (Channel Indicator Light = Yellow or Red). If you're going direct to the power amp (POWER AMP IN), REGARDLESS OF CABLING METHOD***, you'll be coming out of the Helix 1/4" Out set to LINE LEVEL. CLARIFICATION: If you're going into the amp's "POWER AMP IN" jack, the Helix 1/4" Out should be set to LINE LEVEL. In Global Settings - Ins/Outs set "VOLUME KNOB CONTROLS" to 1/4". The BIG KNOB is now your amplifier's VOLUME KNOB. *** there's a possible exception to this involving using a Load Box. That's got nothing to do with your use case. I mention it only because someone is bound to jump in and try to further confuse you by saying "but what if...."

How about..... Set up 4cm as normal, but instead of taking the HX 1/4" Out to the Amp FX Return, use a second HX FX Loop Send. Hook up the Load Box between the Amp and Speaker. Take the Line Out from the Load Box to the second HX FX Loop Return, put your IR Block between the second FX Loop Block and the Output Block, then take the HX 1/4" Out to a DI and on to FOH. The basic preset would look like the attached example. Possible problems: Load Box Line Out has baked in speaker sim with no defeat switch. Cure - get a different Load Box. Second Helix FX Loop adds too much noise. Cure - noise gate before the Output Block. Second Helix FX Loop adds noticeable latency. Cure - you're screwed. I don't have a Load Box to test this with, and I'm assuming the HX FX works similarly to the HX Floor for the FX Loops. Let me know if it works! EDIT: Bad preset deleted. Good preset resent in follow up post.

In a NMV guitar amp the Volume knob controls the level of the signal being fed to the power amp. That's different than being an attenuator for the power amp. I think. Point is, power amp saturation follows the same rules regardless of where the level control is located. When the incoming signal is high enough, saturation happens! The Helix output set to Unity is an IDEAL based on the idea that the attenuation happens in the digital realm, before the DAC, and that somehow (maximum geek-speak) affects the signal quality. The loss of tone in this process is the sort of thing that TRUE tone snobs discuss incessantly on HiFi forums and, in fact, in another thread (can't find it just now) there's a link to just such a discussion. My tube amp has a MV, but I set it up high and control the level I send with the BIG KNOB on the Helix because it's more convenient than running back and forth to the amp to make adjustments. I've tried it both ways and I think it actually sounds BETTER doing it this way. YMMV, but don't get sucked into thinking it HAS to be UNITY or TONE SUCK because some techie lays on some high falutin' scientific explanation of why it ABSOLUTELY IS! Try it and let YOUR EARS be the judge! That said, WARNING! Start with the the BIG KNOB OFF and turn it up slowly or you might FRY your ears or blow a speaker! Use common sense! As for all you said about going into the front of the power amp with Helix amps, you're over-thinking it. Set your reality amp CLEAN as loud as you can and still be CLEAN. Control everything else in the Helix. If you know how loud your reality amp will go without distorting with just the guitar plugged in, you know how loud it can get with the Helix up front before it adds to the the distortion. Look at it as an extra gain stage with it's own tone stack! I like to use 4cm because then I have a choice between the Helix pre/amps and the reality amp's pre with the touch of a switch. Best of all worlds!

I have 2 setups in my apartment. Office/Dining Room - Sony 3way bookshelf system - 6/6/10 - 700 watts (whatever that means). Cost around $200 several years ago. Sounds good at low volumes - still loud enough to PO the neighbors. Studio/Living Room - Rokit6 Monitors - cost around $300 each several years ago. Sounds good, gets pretty loud. Sounds totally different from the Sony. If your main concern is how Helix sounds, and especially if you plan to record with a DAW, get the best studio monitors you can afford. If your main concern is an all purpose household audio system that can also handle Helix, get the best 3way bookshelf system you can afford. If playing out is a consideration, you might want to look at the Headrush FRFR108 (2000 watts). Two of them will set you back a bit over $400, they're pretty compact and can be used as an all purpose system if recording is not a primary consideration - they're not really studio monitors.

Try it. You might LIKE the coloration. Who cares what they are INTENDED to sound like? Unless you like it that way......NO RULES!

By "audio cables" I assume you mean the speaker cables? Just plug the Helix OUT (XLR or 1/4, whatever your AI takes) into the AI. set the Helix OUT to mic or line level to match the Input. Turn the dial to full left to monitor Helix directly, or full right to monitor thru the computer. Audio from the computer (sounds, streaming, YT, Spotify, etc) will be sent to either the Helix or the 2i2 depending on which one is selected for playback in Sound Panel (Windows). In a DAW, playback will be sent to whichever is selected as the ASIO driver in OPTIONS/PREFERENCES (or what ever your DAW calls it's settings dialog). The DAW settings are unrelated to the Sound Panel settings UNLESS you're using a Windows driver (vs ASIO) in the DAW (NOT RECOMMENDED!).

On that last preset I sent there were some errors. Sorry. Try this one. MKV ChannelLT-2.hlx