rd2rk

Nice image! Thanks for posting that!

Which Bugera?

I guess I don't get why, if it works, you need to do it differently? No, I don't have HX Effects, I have the Floor model. But always curious about how/why people use the different models.

Page 36 of the manual: KNOB 3 - Parameter SELECT Determines the Ext Amp connection [1 (Tip-to-sleeve), 2 (Ring-to-sleeve), or both] for switching an external amp's channel, reverb, or other functions. Only works when "Global Settings > Preferences" > EXP 2/EXT AMP is set to "EXT AMP."*

I can dig it! One of my cables sporadically sends a spike through S/PDIF. My speakers don't like it a lot. Digital cables are fragile it seems.

Some people love FRFR. Some hate it. After I tried my Rokit6 monitors and an FRFR112, I bought a tube amp. I'm currently saving for a reactive load box so I can try using the FRFR112 as a supplement to my tube amp. If I still don't like FRFR I'll just keep using Helix with the tube amp and use the FRFR112 for bass, which sounds great. Or maybe I'll try a Powercab+. I suppose I could sell my little brother...... Do you like exploring rabbit holes? This subject has been discussed to death. Search here and in the Digital and Modeling forum on The Gear Page for "FRFR". you'll find hundreds of opinions on the subject as well as just as many recommendations for what FRFR is best, and why they all suck.

Back up your presets. Do a factory reset. Helix Floorboard/LT 1. Holding footswitch 5+6 on boot restores Global parameters 2. Holding footswitch 7+8 on boot restores presets and setlists ”THIS WILL OVERWRITE ALL USER PRESETS AND SETLISTS 3. Holding footswitch 8+9 on boot restores presets, setlists, and IRs ”THIS WILL OVERWRITE ALL USER PRESETS AND SETLISTS 4. Holding footswitch 9+10 on boot restores presets, setlists, globals and IRs (restores factory bundle) "THIS WILL OVERWRITE ALL USER PRESETS AND SETLISTS 5. Holding footswitch 10+11 on boot will rebuild your presets in the latest loaded firmware 6. Helix can now restore by clearing only the current preset instead of wiping out all presets. While holding footswitches 11 + 12 7. Helix can now, after firmware 1.06.5, enter update mode manually by holding footswitches 6 + 12 If that doesn't work: Did you start the install process by first installing HX Edit? If not, back up your presets and start over by installing HX Edit 2.82 and following the instructions to a T. Do not start the updater with HX Edit open. Follow the instructions.

Contact support. It's probably covered even if your LT is out of warranty.

Would be helpful if you told us what device you're using - Helix Floor, Helix Rack, Helix LT, HX Stomp, HX FX, NATIVE? "whenever I paste any pedal from the presets" makes no sense, unless you always create a WAH Block by copy/pasting from another preset?. The RED ONE? Tell us what you're using and attach an example preset.

There's two Helix presets involved. The recording preset, and the re-amping preset. RECORD - EFFECTED PATH RECORD - CLEAN PATH The EFFECTED PATH is panned hard left and is carried on S/PDIF 1. The CLEAN PATH is panned hard right and is carried on S/PDIF 2. In your DAW, set one track to record S/PDIF 1 (EFFECTED TRACK). S/PDIF 1 is what Reaper calls Helix S/PDIF 1. Create a second track to record S/PDIF 2. S/PDIF 2 is what Reaper calls Helix S/PDIF 2. Send the OUTPUT to S/PDIF 1/2 (whatever channel #s your DAW uses for that, Reaper uses 11/12, as the Focusrite Analog Outputs are numbered 1-10). Set up a third track to record the re-amped signal, taking it's INPUT from S/PDIF 1/2. In your Routing SW, MUTE the incoming S/PDIF to prevent feedback. RECORD ACTIVATE tracks 1 and 2. You might want to turn off track monitoring on the CLEAN track. Load the Helix preset you want to record, set up as above with EFFECTED and CLEAN paths. Record your piece. RE-AMP Now load the HX RE-AMPING preset. Deactivate RECORD on the two recorded tracks. MUTE the EFFECTED track. Turn off track monitoring on the CLEAN track so you only hear the re-amped track RECORD ACTIVATE the re-amping track. In your routing SW, UN-MUTE the S/PDIF Outputs. Record. This SHOULD send the CLEAN track out of your DAW, into Helix S/PDIF 1/2 IN, through the re-amping preset and back out Helix S/PDIF OUT to the RE-AMPING track. The trick, as I mentioned, is in the routing SW, muting the S/PDIF Channel fro Helix to DAW while recording to prevent feedback, and un-muting it to allow the signal to flow from DAW to Helix and back to the DAW. Obviously, you'll have to figure out what your NI SW calls the Focusrite/Reaper equivalents. I've attached sample Helix presets to help with the Screenshots. Hope this gets you there. Hope I didn't leave anything out, lots of steps! Did I mention how much simpler this all is with Helix NATIVE? :-)

Attach a copy of the preset and I'll have a look at it.

Don't you mean Global Settings - Ins/Outs and set "Return Type" to "Aux In"? There is no option for Main L/R. Anyway, that's how mine is set and it works.

Try "Basic Track", "No Effects". Set up GB to use the Helix for Output and plug your headphones into the Helix - I think the weird delay thing I mentioned could be what Sascha was talking about when using different Input/Output devices.

He's talking about using Helix for the output. Computer soundcards are not famous for being high quality. If you select Helix as your computer's soundcard instead of the onboard hardware, then take the headphone out from Helix (or 1/4" or XLR with adapters) to your sound system, it MIGHT sound better. Maybe. If you're happy with what you've got, don't sweat it, it has no bearing on the problem you're trying to solve.

In Global Settings - Preferences: If Snapshot Edits is set to RECALL, you can change the settings in all your snapshots one at a time, then save the preset when you're done. If Snapshot Edits is set to DISCARD, every time you change snapshots your edits will be lost UNLESS you SAVE the preset before changing snapshots.

Only matters to his playback sound, which he's happy with, but yeah, that's what I'd do too.

If you're recording, get studio monitors. Search for FRFR and you'll get lots of recommendations, but most name brand monitors 5" and over should be fine. Your Klipsch stuff is excellent for media playback, but accurate mixing requires a more flat response than they're likely to provide. That said, unless you're SERIOUS about recording, Kiipsch will be fine. My office rig is a Stomp through a 6", 3-way Sony bookshelf system. Sounds fine (for the office). The FRFR108 is said to be very good. I have the FRFR112, which is fine, though I'm much happier since I got my Eganator Tweaker 15 Combo. Not that I buy into the "tubes are the holy grail" thing, I just prefer the sound of Helix through a guitar cab. Assuming you're on Windows10, my DAW recommendation is Reaper (also works on MAC). Cheap (free unlimited trial, $60 if you like it and are honest), full featured, great routing, and you can always spend more money later on something else. One of the things I like about Reaper is that when I want to go all electronic, I use an APCmini grid controller ($99) with the free version of Ableton Live 10 routed into Reaper via Rearoute. Best of both worlds for super cheap. Last thing - google PC Audio Optimization. Follow the directions to optimize your PC for use with a DAW. That'll go a long way toward preventing your coming back here asking "how come my system glitches, must be Helix sucks". :-) Oh, yeah. DO NOT plug the USB from the Helix into a USB Hub!

The Dragon pups are hotter, so should give you more distortion, but shouldn't cause the problem we're hearing. Just for kicks, DL Reaper - it's free to try - and record a track. I don't know how it works with MAC and GB, you may have to take the audio out of the Helix HP out. I just wonder if it's GB that's coloring the sound. Your output routing doesn't matter, since the rendered track has the same muffled sound on my system as on yours. Worth a try, as it's certainly not a Helix problem.

Good to know. Thanks!

Best Practice, for sure. I pointed it out because I so often see people recommending the Amp Channel Volume for leveling presets. Just something to be aware of once you've carefully gain staged a preset.

So, fill us in (help the next guy). What was wrong?

Typically, to use MIDI in a DAW you first create a MIDI track to bring in the MIDI from the FCB, then point the MIDI track's output at the track with NATIVE on it (or directly at the NATIVE instance itself, varies with the DAW. The MIDI track may or may not need to be Record Activated and/or have Monitoring set ON). At present, preset changes in NATIVE via MIDI can only be done if you're using AAX/AU type plugins. AFAIK, that means ProTools or Logic. I'm on a PC (not MAC) and only have ProTools First, which doesn't allow 3rd party plugins. I can say for sure that it doesn't work with the VST version of NATIVE, as tested in Reaper, Ableton LIVE and Cakewalk. Bypass, Expression Pedals and Snapshot changes all work fine with the VST version in those DAWs, and should work fine in Cubase.

The Amp Block's Channel Volume will affect everything downstream, so I prefer to use the Output Block, or a Gain Block right before the Output Block.

My PRS Custom 24 has the stock HFS bridge PUP. I recorded a short bit (same chords) in Reaper using your preset, then rendered it to mp3. Result attached. It sounds different from your recording. I have no idea what's going on in your setup, what pups your PRS has, etc.. One thing I do note, it sounds like you're playing to a delayed signal. Like, you're waiting to hear your last strum before you play the next. I'm not sure how that helps. My 2204 Test.mp3

No rules! But, not a usual thing to do. I have a preset that doesn't use an amp, but uses an IR. Why? Because I like it!