rd2rk

Gobbledy-g00k = Gobbledy-lollipop! THAT'S funny!

As zolko60 said, the only way to get your full amp sound is to use BOTH the pre and power amp sections. Everything else he said is technical gobbledy-lollipop TO ME, but I assume that he wouldn't tell you to do it if he hadn't tried it himself with his own rig. Right? I'm a pretty simple guy, and have a pretty simple rule on this subject. If the jack says "SPEAKER OUT", it either gets connected to a speaker, or to a reactive load box or other device that's INTENDED for the purpose. I've never heard of a DI that's DESIGNED to take a SPEAKER OUT. Though they MAY exist, I think they're called LOAD BOXES or ATTENUATORS when they're INTENDED for that purpose. The STANDARD WAY to do what you're trying to do is to run your guitar amp and Helix in 4cm and connect your amp's SPEAKER OUT to a REACTIVE LOAD BOX that has built-in IR capability. It ain't cheap, but there must be a reason why it's the STANDARD WAY to do it. Yeah? If you're doing this for recording purposes, you COULD try running the FX Loop Send/LINE OUT from your pre amp to the Helix to the AI (audio interface) and load something like Torpedo Wall of Sound (WOS) in the DAW. WOS has power amp simulations for most popular tube sets that are said to be quite realistic.

Some people keep wanting L6 to be like Fractal, with constant updates. Like, every day would be like Christmas, but we'd only get one present a day. What fun would that be? Every day there'd be a new thread speculating on what we might get tomorrow......part of the fun of Christmas is making lists, then ripping open all the packages to see what we got!

There's a dedicated thread for folks like us over on TGP......

As mentioned in previous replies, generally not a good idea. HOWEVER - in another similar thread: "How do I connect the cables If I'm using Two Notes Torpedo Captor load box with my tube amp? Is this corret: Helix send 1 to amp's input then load box output to helix return 1? Then IR block?" I said: "you definitely DO NOT want to connect either of the outputs on the back of the Torpedo to the Helix. That would cause all of the magic smoke to escape from your Helix, reducing it to a very expensive door stop! The connectors on the BACK of the Torpedo are for Speakers ONLY!" zolko60 said : "To clarify you definetly can't cause any magic smoke to escape from your Helix because Hx Input impedance is too high to draw current. All you can do is to damage your tube power amp. -20dB attenuated speaker output can work just fine as additional line output." YMMV? Good luck!

He's using some kind of Apogee as his interface. I told him to use that as his MAC soundcard on the assumption that it has a 1/8" headphone jack.

Or, assuming that you're "bringing in" the OD by toggling the FX Loop Block, assign that button to the Output Block (or Channel Volume on the Amp) also and set the MIN (OFF) to 0db (unity) and the MAX (ON) to minus whatever you need.

Monitor from the interface headphone out, or set the iMac as the default playback device. I don't use MAC, so unless a MAC person wants to jump in, you'll have to RTM.

And, if your preset is STEREO, you can take signals from BOTH Left and Right Line outs and combine them with the STEREO button - voila! Stereo!

Maybe. Maybe not. I use a $300 Headrush FRFR112, sounds great TO ME. I also have an Alto TS210 that sounds fine (the FRFR112 is better for Bass than the TS210). But the Geminis should be just fine. Per my post above, if you've done all you say, could be you just don't like the Helix. It happens.

Line Outs to a small mixer or headphone amp should do it. Home stereo AUX in should also work.

Unfortunately, HX Stomp only RESPONDS to CC, and only SENDS PC. Worse yet, since it lacks the Command Center functions, it will only send a default PC when loading a preset, they can't be assigned. For what you want to do you'll either need the full Helix Floor, the Helix LT, or HX Effects.

The behavior you're describing is what happens when a NOTE message is set to MOMENTARY. If you're using a NOTE message for the STOP command, check to see if it's set to MOMENTARY.

This isn't really a Helix issue. Someone here MIGHT have an answer, but wouldn't you be more likely to get a proper answer to this by posting in the ProTools Forum? Heck, post in several DAW forums. Can't hurt. And when you do get the answer, come back and tell us.....:-)

Congratulations! By buying a Helix you've stepped boldly into the modern world! By pairing it with a Fender Twin you've succeeded in booting yourself 50 years into the past! While the Twin is a great amp, it's use with Helix reduces the Helix to a fancy pedalboard. Almost any effect you've ever wanted to put IN FRONT of your tube amp. You don't even have an effects loop! By using the Helix with your PA you're getting closer to maximizing it's features. You can now use it to create complete rigs - amps, cabs, effects loops, the whole nine yards. Getting it to sound good is, as you've discovered, challenging, especially if your point of reference is one of the world's greatest clean tube amps. Start by checking out Jason Sadite's YouTube videos. Lots of tips and tricks and he's a great teacher. However, if that doesn't get you there, and if you can't find a single decent sounding preset, either from the factory or in any of the aftermarket packages, you might want to consider that maybe the modern world isn't for you. Else, maybe you need to sell your Helix and get a Fractal or a KPA. I don't mean to be insulting or discouraging, but not everybody likes Fords, some prefer Chevies! And a LOT of GREAT music has been made with a Twin and a Tube Screamer!

From the 5150III manual: To set up and use MIDI for channel selection: 1. Press both channel SELECT buttons {E and I} simultaneously to enter MIDI "Learning Mode." The current amp channel LED will start to blink. 2. Send any desired Program Change message on any desired channel from your MIDI controller to the amp. The amp channel 1 LED will start to blink unless you have previously assigned that Program Change message to a different amp channel, in which case the previously assigned channel LED will start to blink. 3. Select the target amp channel (1, 2 or 3) using the channel SELECT buttons {E or I}. All three amp channel LEDs will briefly illuminate to indicate if the amp channel assignment has been changed for the Program Change message sent (if the amp channel assignment has not changed, which would be the case when assigning amp channel 1 to a Program Change message for the very first time, the three amp channel LEDs will not all illuminate briefly because the amp channel assignment has not changed from the default amp channel 1 assignment). If the Program Change message is currently assigned to amp channel 1 (default), you will have to press channel SELECT {E} twice to select amp channel 2. If the Program Change message is currently assigned to amp channel 2, you will have to press channel SELECT {E} twice to select amp channel 1. 4. Repeat steps 2–3 for each channel on the amp, if desired. You can also assign multiple Program Change messages to the same amp channel for more flexibility. You can use the Footswitch to temporarily change channels at any time during MIDI set up and it will have no effect on saving the amp channel assignments. All channel assignment changes must be made using the front panel channel SELECT buttons {E and I}. 5. Once you are done setting up MIDI Program Changes, press both channel SELECT buttons {E and I} simultaneously to exit "Learning Mode." The amp is now set up to switch to the target channels whenever the selected Program Change messages are sent on the selected MIDI channel. The default MIDI channel for the amp is channel 1. You can change the MIDI channel for the amp by sending a Program Change message from any other desired MIDI channel during Learning Mode. The amp will then only respond to Program Change messages and Control Change messages on that new MIDI channel. _____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________ There ya go. Go into Command Center, set the switches to the MIDI commands that you want to use, then follow the directions above. Of course, you'll have to set the switches in Command Center on EVERY preset in which you require this functionality. That's why a third box is a better idea, UNLESS the idea is to match a specific effects configuration for each channel, which just requires setting one Instant Command vs three stomps. Still have to do it for each preset, but easier and doesn't waste the stomp buttons.

Your biggest problem with the Katana 50 is that there's no FX Loop. To use the amps in the stomp with that amp you'll need to use the clean amp, and that's never going to sound right. As Kilrahi said, you're best off just using the Helix effects without the amps and cabs. Unless you really love that amp, your best bet is to try and sell it, or trade it for an FRFR type speaker.

Maybe try a different pair of IRs, and/or a (new) simple amp to IRs preset?

The audio is not the clean snap, but I tried with the solo and groove snaps, still no difference. The audio definitely sounds like a level difference, or like the mids just dropped out. Weird.

I don't have the exact "E" and "F" versions, but using these: OH 412 ENG V30 421-05 OH 412 ENG V30 421-06 From the L6 folder (same as the 200ms non-L6), I don't hear any difference.

If the IR in question is an OH, not L6, that'll make posting it less helpful. I tried a simple amp/IR setup (with OH IRs) and didn't notice a difference. Do include the full OH IR names, I may have them to try.

It shouldn't. It would be helpful if you attached the preset itself.

Rock On!

You can do the same on a MAC, I just don't know the procedure to do it.

With your computer, set the computer's soundcard to the Helix (Sound Panel in Windows). In Helix Globals-Ins/Outs set USB in 1/2 Destination to the Helix outputs that your speakers are connected to. With an MP3 player you're pretty much stuck with the Return Block method that Verne described (need 2 for stereo), which needs to be set up individually in every preset. The alternative method he mentioned wastes a whole processor, and isn't even stereo.