rd2rk

I'll look at the video when I get a chance. In the meantime, since they're different presets, why not send them to me (attach to reply)?

When I was testing it for you, once I had the snapshots saved properly, no amount of random button pushing changed the messages sent. Of course, I'm not one of those machines that switch mfrs use to press buttons 10 million times. If you're SURE that this is happening, and can reliably reproduce the behavior, get support on the phone and see what they think. I know that they're aware of some anomalies in the way that midi messages are handled in snapshots, maybe it's a known issue. It would be good if you could document the problem using a midi monitor, so that you could send a screenshot or text file for them to look at. Good Luck!

You might also want to check out the Helix thread over on Gearpage. https://www.thegearpage.net/board/index.php?threads/line6-helix.1586637/

What did support say when you contacted them?

If you're good with your stage monitor level being controlled from the FOH board's monitor mix - everybody gets the same mix, too bad if you can't hear yourself, because if you ask the sound guy (you if you're doing your own sound) to turn you up in the monitor somebody else says you're too loud - you're good. I use a two channel active monitor. The board's monitor mix goes in one channel, the 1/4" out from the Helix goes in the other. That way, If I'm too loud in either the FOH or MONITOR mix, the sound guy can do whatever he wants with my signal, I control MY level in MY monitor with the big knob, and it doesn't affect the level that goes to the board. EVERYBODY is happy. The only thing I'll add to the way I described setting up the Helix in my previous post is that the XLR/LINE OUT (when not controlled from the big knob) is a pretty hot signal. Depending on your board, you MAY have to set the XLR OUT to MIC if it's too hot on LINE.

Assuming that the XLR goes to the FOH board, and the 1/4" goes to your stage monitor, in GLOBAL set the big knob for 1/4" only. Let the sound guy handle your FOH level while you use the big knob for your stage level. S/N ratio on your stage monitor should be good with your amp up to it's max safe/no noise level, and big knob set to wherever you need it for your monitoring needs.

Have you tried contacting support? Even out of warranty, I'm sure they would at least be able to answer your question.

They're frequently found on Gearpage in the Helix thread.

Do a search on this (Helix) group for DT770. Lots of discussion.

I've found that, where snapshots are concerned, the logical assumption is usually wrong! Also... once you've got it working and thoroughly tested, SAVE backup copies, in case your working version gets a wild hair.....

What I'm seeing is that your controllers are not saved identically across all of your snapshots. For instance, in BASS ABLETON, using FS5 as an example, in Snapshot HW Clean, it sends A#8. In the other 3 snapshots it sends C#1. In CLEAN ABLETON, Snapshots CLEAN and HW CLEAN send A#8, but the other two send C#1. Go through and make sure that all controllers in each snapshot in both presets are set identically. You need to save each snapshot individually before moving to the next one.

Would be best if you could attach the two presets in question....

Come on you guys, give us a break! This is a thread about a subject of interest to a lot of people, and you've hijacked it and turned it into a personal pi$$ing contest. Have some respect for the rest of us!

The only way to get true "amp in the room" sound is to buy a guitar amp. With ANY FRFR cab, you're getting the sound of a mic'd amp and guitar cab reproduced through a Full Range cabinet, and Flat Response is relative. So the answer to your question is, an FRFR speaker IS an amp in the room. It creates sound waves (pushes air) which, with sufficient volume, will flap your pants and damage your hearing. If it sounds good to you with your modeler, then it's the right amp for you. Some people like Fender amps, some swear by Marshalls, or Boogies or VOX or Diesel or.....the fact is, these days, most of the people in the audience have only ever heard those amps through recordings, or as mic'd through a PA. Live in a small club they can't tell the difference between a JCM800 and a Triple Rectifier, just that it's TOO LOUD! That's why the way of the future is modelers, IEMs and amp-less stages. Your 2000 watt FRFR is probably going to be used as a personal monitor if you're not using IEMs. If I had $1000-1500 for an FRFR, I'd spend it on a good IEM rig and get used to it. Meanwhile, my $300 Headrush FRFR-112 sounds REALLY GOOD and, fortunately, my neighbors seem to think so too (and they like my playing).....

I have the FRFR-112. It sounds VERY GOOD. It replaced an Alto TS-210, which wasn't bad. For the price, the FRFR-112 is a good bet. I don't currently have the money to buy the Powercab for comparison, but if the money tree drops some leaves on me I definitely will. Here's a link to a long and sometimes contentious discussion of FRFR speakers which includes details of my back and forth with Headrush support over the difference between the FRFR-112 and the identically spec'd Alto TS312. Draw your own conclusions. To repeat, the FRFR-112 sounds VERY good. YMMV, caveat emptor.

For the benefit of anyone else who might have this problem, what was the solution?

AH! If you CLEAR (set to NONE) the IC in the unused Snapshot, it CLEARS ALL the ICs in ALL the Snapshots. To avoid that, I need to set the (in this case) PROGRAM parameter to OFF! Also, setting ALL of the Snapshots BEFORE saving the preset preserves the desired settings all across? That still doesn't solve the problem of each Snapshot first sending the first IC of the previous Snapshot before sending the correct ICs for that Snapshot, or the selection of UNUSED (program parameter OFF in this case) sending the first IC of the previous snapshot. BUT....TODAY it's no longer sending the MSB=0. Another mystery!

So, if I set an Instant Command in ONE snapshot, it's the same in ALL snapshots? I can't, say, send an IC in Snapshot 1, but NOT in any others? Or a DIFFERENT (or NO) IC in another Snapshot? How do you get your H9s to change their presets to accommodate different snapshots?

Here's the preset and MIDIOX screenshots I sent support, along with the text of the message I submitted to support. In the screenshot MIDIOX TestSnapshots, the first four lines are sent when the preset loads. Each set of six lines after the first four are what's sent by each snapshot, 1 thru 4. In screenshot MIDIOX TestSnapshots2, the first four lines are, again, what's sent when the preset loads. The next four lines are what's sent if you then select an unassigned (no IC assignments) snapshot (5 thru 8). Following that, each set of ten lines shows what is sent when you select another assigned (with ICs) snapshot (six lines), followed by an unassigned snapshot (four lines). Since the last set of ICs sent is correct as intended, the snapshot midi works as expected. Selecting an unassigned snapshot, accidentally (stumblefoot) or because you thought it was real is not likely, but could happen, and results in baffling unintended consequences. BTW - I've tested all of this using Reaper and a track with two sims, S-Gear and Amplitube 4, set to Ch 2 and Ch3 respectively. Helix really is sending this stuff. -------------------------------------------------------

FWIW, I found this - possible solution in next to last post - voodoo labs control switcher.

I sent my test preset and a couple of MIDIOX screenshots to support. They'll get back to me. I'll get back to you.

What? The forum? Yes. https://forum.grailtone.com/

Globals/midi/remote:bypass page? People complain about the Helix manual. Compared to the Ax FX III manual, it's a model of detail and clarity!

Just because it's a 5 pin DIN, doesn't necessarily mean MIDI. The manual says nothing about it being MIDI. If you can find out what MIDI commands it uses to switch channels, then MAYBE the Helix can do it, but that depends on HOW you want to do it - simple switch or snapshot? First thing to do is find out IF it's MIDI and what exactly the commands are that control it. If it's NOT MIDI, there MAY be an adaptor available that MIGHT allow you to use the Helix 1/4" channel switch, but even then, details are required that are not provided in the manual. Also, there could be a problem with noise. MORE DATA NEEDED!

Please refrain from posting visual proof of the results. We'll take your word for it......