rd2rk
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Everything posted by rd2rk
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To further clarify what @silverhead said, here's your signal chain: With Helix amp OFF, Helix FX Loop ON: Guitar>Helix Input>pre amp FX (OD/MODs)>Helix FX Send>Marshall Input/pre-amp (knobs active)>Marshall FX Send>Helix FX Return>post amp FX (Delay, Rev)>Helix Output>Marshall FX Loop Return>Marshall power amp With Helix amp ON, Helix FX Loop OFF: Guitar>Helix Input>pre amp FX (OD/MODs)>Helix amp>post amp FX (Delay/Rev)>Helix Output>Marshall FX Loop Return>Marshal power amp
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First - your 100watt Marshall is WAY overkill for your stated usage. It's overkill for most bar gigs and these days a lot of concert stages are silent - IEMs ONLY! Second - A tube amp colors the sound and reacts very differently at lower volumes than at higher volumes. You have three main choices available to you in most modelers. Pre-amp - If you're using an EL34 tube power amp, running a Deluxe Reverb pre-amp (designed for 6v6 tubes) into it might sound interesting, but won't sound authentic. IOW, to a certain extent and especially at high volume, a tube amp can be limiting when combined with a modeler. Full amp - this is a model of the amp's pre AND power amp. In the case of Helix, the interactions between them are also modeled. When using a digital preamp into a tube power amp these interactions are not present. If you run a full amp model into a tube amp you're getting the MODELED power amp and a REAL power amp superimposed on one another. Sticking to the previous example, a Deluxe Reverb with its modeled 6v6 tube power section played through an EL34 power amp might be interesting, or it might be just plain weird. I'll add at this point that what constitutes "great tone" is entirely subjective. You MIGHT really like that combination! Full amp+cab - You now have an emulation of a Deluxe Reverb with its 6v6 tube section and a speaker cabinet running into an EL34 power amp and a (4-12?) speaker cab. Again, you might like it, but trying to figure out where that weird sound is coming from could be challenging... Don't worry about frying anything. In the digital world, the only way that's gonna happen is if you take your Marshall's Speaker Output back into the Helix. If you do that you may need the fire extinguishers! Yes, I'm talking about the FX Loop Block in the Helix, not the switch on the Marshall. While you're waiting for the Helix to arrive, DL the manual. It'll answer a LOT of questions for you! IMO - modelers are designed to be used with a FLAT (typical Class D) power amp. SS amps typically sound the same at any volume level (beware of Fletcher-Munson). Personally, after trying many FRFR systems, I've decided that I don't like the sound of HF Drivers. I much prefer using a real guitar cab with a flattish, relatively wide range speaker. However, for what you're doing, a quality pair of Studio Monitors might be all you need. If you go this way, IRs can be a great tool or a rabbit hole. Start with the built-in Helix cabs. Once you learn how to use them they're not nearly as bad as the IR fans claim.
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If you run the output from your modeler to the FX Return of your amp you are taking the amp's preamp section (the main point of using a Marshall) OUT of the circuit. Running the modeler's output to the amp's INPUT eliminates the opportunity to use the Helix amps, as running an amp into an amp will not sound really good. As @silverhead said, using 4cm has many advantages and allows you to optimize the potential of both the amp and modeler. By switching the Helix FX Loop OFF and switching a Helix Amp (not amp+cab) ON you are essentially doing what you did with your BOSS, running the modeler directly into the Marshall's power amp through it's FX Return. With the FX Loop ON and the Helix amp OFF you are using the Helix FX (OD/DIST/MODs) into the Marshall preamp and between the Marshall preamp and poweramp (DELAY/REV/MODs). 4cm gives you the best of both worlds.
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Whatever works for you. I can only advise based on my own experience.
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I purposely did not mention ASIO4ALL because, IME, it's more trouble than it's ever been worth. Something that in some cases might work better than awful and in other cases not is not something worth using. The solutions I offered might be annoying, but they ALWAYS work.
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If you have a MAC you can create an aggregate device. If you're on Windows you need to change the ASIO device in Cubase to the Helix, then when you're done recording the DI track on USB 7, just switch back. Not a big deal on most DAWs, but Cubase is a PITA so YMMV. Other options depend on your unnamed Focusrite AI. I have the 18i20 which has SPDIF. I could take a split after the Input Block and assign it's Output to Digital but switching the ASIO device is easier. You can also just place a Send after the Input Block and run that into your AI. Unless you're Superman you will NOT hear any degradation from the conversion.
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I have the PC212+ and Helix Floor. Here's my advice/comments: If you like your Firehawk, keep it. L6 Link does not always work the way it's supposed to (for speaker control, but Audio is fine). MIDI is more consistent/dependable for speaker control. The Powercab line, to all appearances, is abandonware. Don't expect updates or even bug fixes. Don't expect answers from L6 about anything. Don't expect support (normally very helpful and knowledgeable) to know what they're talking about re Powercab. Much discussion about this on TGP in the D&M forum. If you disable the HF Driver it sounds like an amp in the room. Otherwise it sounds like FRFR. My preference if using IRs is LF RAW mode (HF Driver OFF, no speaker EQ) or LF FLAT mode (HF Driver OFF, speaker EQ'd FLAT). Using MIDI you can use FRFR mode (HF Driver ON) with the HF Driver level set to taste. Very flexible, just don't count on L6 Link except for Audio. If you think of the speaker emulations as "Speaker 1", "Speaker 2" etc vs V30, GB etc you'll be happier. The stereo spread is surprisingly good, and it excels at ambient stuff. I like to use it at 200% spread with my Catalyst100 up top as the DRY component of a W/D/W configuration. Sounds VERY COOL! There's an Input LED next to the Output Volume knob. For best results, your LOUDEST, most aggressive playing with your LEAD BOOST ON should drive that LED into the Amber with MAYBE VERY OCCASIONAL flashes of Red. Regular playing should be in the Green. ALL TONE IS SUBJECTIVE. It sounds like rock to me. It sounds like metal to me. It sounds like country to me. It sounds like jazz to me. If anything about it sucked as much as some people claim, I would have sold it long ago. YMMV. As @PierM said the only way to know if you'll like it is to try it.
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I feel for you guys. Thankfully, in 6 years this problem has never reared it's ugly head. Good Luck! Keep us up on your progress!
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Here's a link to the GC Manual: gc_origv2manual.pdf (voodoolab.com) A quick look indicates no reason why it would not work with Helix. I read somewhere that it's possible to insert a 5pin cable incorrectly into a 7pin socket, but if it works with the HD500 it should work with Helix. Verify that both the GC and Helix are on the same MIDI Channel. Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo>MIDI Base Channel. Also, Global Settings>MIDI/Tempo>MIDI PC Receive=MIDI+USB. If it still doesn't work, connect your HD500 to your computer via USB and use a MIDI Monitor to see what is actually being sent by the GC. Use the MIDI Monitor (or a DAW) to route the MIDI from the GC to the HELIX via USB. This eliminates the possibility of MIDI HW problems between the GC and Helix. Update me.
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1 - I'm pretty sure that sysex handling has never been a feature of any of the Helix/HX products. Since it has never been a feature it CAN'T be a BUG! If you would like to see this feature implemented in future FW versions, sign up on Ideascale and post your request there. SEARCH FIRST so as not to water down previous requests for the same feature. Log in | Line 6 Ideas (ideascale.com) 2 - I have no such problems. While random inexplicable PARAMETER changes related to Snapshots have been reported and verified, the problems with Instant Commands (that's what they're called, not Instant Messages) that you describe are more likely user error. Sorry, I know you disagree, but if you start a thread in the Helix section asking for help with this specific problem I'll be happy to try and sort it out for you. The ins and outs of using ICs and Snapshots can be maddening. 3 - see 2. 4 - Again, I have no such problem, and this is the first time I've ever seen this reported. Start a thread in the Helix section and I'll try to help. I've seen your post regarding the same issues with HXFX. I'll bet if we fix one, it will apply to both.
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Assuming that you're using a Windows computer, if you've chosen the Catalyst as ASIO in your DAW you can't use the AI to monitor playback, playback is restricted to the ASIO device. There really isn't any practical reason to use the Catalyst as AI unless your AI is an ancient POS with really crappy preamps. If you're worried about the effect of the AD/DA conversion on the sound, don't be, unless you're Superman you won't hear it. I use a Scarlett 18i20 which has SPDIF. There is no humanly detectable difference between sending my Helix through SPDIF and sending it through XLR. Just connect the Cat's XLR to your AI's XLR input and solve the ground loop problem that way.
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You have a USB ground loop. Disconnect your other USB cables from the computer until you locate the source of the USB ground loop. It'll probably be your Helix, especially likely if it's connected to the Cat in any way. Anything that in any way gets interconnected with anything that's connected to the Cat is suspect. I have a dozen devices connected to my studio laptop via multiple hubs. Sometimes in order to use the Cat app without the ground loop problem I have to disconnect the Korg nanoKontrol that I use for controlling the volume on my PC212+ which chains from my Helix by L6 Link and MIDI cable and on to the cat for simultaneous MIDI control of speaker parameters on the PC212 and FX/Channel switching on the Cat. I get around it by connecting the Cat to my iPhone, but if I'm expecting an important call I don't want to put the phone on airplane mode so... but I digress. Bottom line - USB ground loops are a PITA and sometimes difficult to troubleshoot.
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You wouldn't believe what the page translator did to your post! Nie uwierzysz, co tłumacz strony zrobił z Twoim postem! I wonder what that says? Zastanawiam się, co to mówi? So far, they've only gotten around to a Pilot's Guide and only translated it to French and Japanese. Don't worry, I'm sure it's nothing personal. They're probably waiting for the first major update before they do a comprehensive manual that will be more widely translated. Do tej pory dotarli tylko do Przewodnika Pilota i przetłumaczyli go tylko na francuski i japoński. Nie martw się, jestem pewien, że to nic osobistego. Prawdopodobnie czekają na pierwszą poważną aktualizację, zanim zrobią obszerny podręcznik, który zostanie szerzej przetłumaczony.
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This is the one I have: AmazonSmile: AGVEE [5ft] Lightning OTG MIDI Cable USB Type-B Cord Compatible with iPhone iPad iOS for Piano, Midi Controller, Midi Keyboard, Audio Interface Recording, Black : Musical Instruments
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Page 8 of the manual: HOW TO - Change Banks Press and hold the MANUAL Channel button, then use the AMP SELECT knob to scroll through the six banks. Yes, or use the app. Do you have a smart phone? Get a USB B to your phone's USB port cable and use the app. Or use a computer. System requirements - MacOS 10.14 or newer, Windows 7 or newer, iOS (iPhone/iPad) 12.1 or newer, or Android™ OS 6.0 or newer. For optimal USB audio performance on Windows computers, download and install the free Line 6 CATALYST ASIO driver from line6.com/software. USB Host Mode differs on many devices, so Catalyst Edit may not be compatible on all Android devices.
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No. The Catalyst does not have a built-in wah. In this case you need to treat the Catalyst like an amp, NOT a modeler. Use a real wah pedal out front. I use a Helix Floor or HX Stomp in 4cm and in that configuration either the Floor's Exp Pedal and a Wah block or the HXS with ME SP1-L6 work a treat. With the Catalyst alone, use a real wah out front.
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The definitive answer to your question is YES. The switching is NOT the problem. BUT... All power amps are NOT created equal. Whether or not your desired configuration will work will likely depend on: a) your power amp, and b) which Helix amps/preamps you want to use. If you're using a tube power amp the Helix pre-amps might be fine. If you're using a Class D or other SS power amp you might want to use the full amp models. The HXS will be limited in your dual amp configuration by the available DSP (processor power). Full amp models require more DSP than pre-amps. Usually. Some more than others. Some pre-amps require more DSP than others. Here's a link to a listing of the DSP requirements of most Helix amps/cabs/FX. You can use it to estimate if you'll have enough DSP available for what you want to do. Helix DSP Allocations – BenVesco.com Store Personally, I'd look at an LT or Floor and not have to sweat the DSP issues. Or, down the road, routing issues. And you get an expression pedal. Just sayin'... For some reason, some anti-malware programs think this site is infected. It's not.
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If the FOH guy doesn't know the difference between taking the signal direct from the Senn and taking it from the Stomp you can TRY to explain it to them, but it could be a lost cause. OTOH, if they're taking the signal from BOTH (most likely, else you'd have no FX in FOH) because they want a direct signal to MIX with the effected signal, then you can TRY to explain how the MUTE function of your Stomp's tuner works (does the FOH tech really want to become a human MUTE switch?) but may end up needing to use a separate tuner linked to the same DI that FOH is using. That is, between the Senn's DI and the cable to the board, so that when you activate that tuner it mutes the DI signal. Depending on the stage setup, this could require a LOT of cable, adapters etc and MIGHT cause a POP in the PA. That would NOT be good.
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IF the venue was taking the L/Mono Out to the board AND That's the output you always use AND Tuner OUTPUT is set to MUTE AND your Tuner signal is still getting to FOH THEN they're getting a signal from someplace other than the L/Mono Out. Could FOH have somehow been taking a direct signal from the Senn's Receiver?
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When you load a preset, Helix sends: The default PC#. When using PC#s to switch channels on an amp you want to turn this OFF. Global Settings>MIDI/Tap>MIDI PC Send=OFF Instant Commands. This is where you set the PC# that selects your amp channel. Use IC1. Helix sends MIDI Standard PC#s 0-127. Your amp responds to PC#s 1-128. Some MIDI implementations automatically translate - when PC#0 is received, it's translated to PC#1. You'll have to test to be sure what your amp does. Toggling CC - If you have a FS set to Toggle an Effect and you want the effect to be ON when you load the preset, SAVE the preset with that FS ON. I'm not sure why this would happen unless when you saved the preset you saved it with the effects FS OFF. If your presets are as static as you indicated, then you don't need the FS Bypass assignments at all, and when you load the preset the FX will be in whatever state you saved them in. Keep in mind that when you use Instant Commands, they run automatically on preset load AND on Snapshot load. In the configuration you described (using ONLY preset mode), when you change presets you're UNLOADING the current preset and LOADING a new one. If the FX are OFF in the new preset... One of the advantages to using Snapshots instead of Presets is that you can change EVERYTHING at once (except FX types/models) WITHOUT unloading/loading entire presets. If you use the same FX in all of your Presets, Snapshots might be the better way to go. Since the Instant Commands are sent with every Snapshot change, you can change the amp channels as well as the FX Bypass states and parameter settings. Most Helix users use a combination of Presets and Snapshots for maximum flexibility, and since in Stomp Mode you can combine Preset, Snapshot and Bypass footswitches, there's a lot of possibilities.
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In order to help you with this, certain things need to be understood: First - "Button" names. Helix "Buttons" are called Footswitches, abbreviated "FS" for our purposes here. Second - How you use a FS depends on the MODE that you are in - Preset, Snapshot or Stomp. Third - How you use Command Center to assign a MIDI message to a FS depends on the MIDI message - CC, Toggling CC, Bank/Program Change, NOTE, etc. Fourth - How those messages are sent and how the FS interacts with your Helix Effects depends on whether you're sending on Preset Load, on Snapshot Change or on FS Press. Fifth - how you do any of that depends on the SPECIFICS of the device being controlled. Sixth - your personal preferences for how you like to do things in performance. So, let's start with #5 - what amp (make AND model) are you attempting to control?