brue58ski

That is the thread where I got my info from. Although not everyone can go there I guess.

I do not know what it was. Some one mentioned meters but DI said no, it's not that. This was his specific response. Way too obvious (regarding the meters). Helix Core, however, will improve GUI performance so meters are no longer off the table.

I debated whether to post this or not. Bottom line, I'd want to know. So here's a quote from Digital Igloo posted today at TGP. Finishing up Helix Core has been a slog. We have models for 2.80 finished (and more to come) but haven't even started on user-facing features, as we'd have to code everything twice (once for Helix Core SKUs, again for those that don't aren't yet fully Core). There'll probably be a preview at NAMM but it won't be ready until later. My personal pet feature made it in. Finally.

Well um...good luck! You'll love your Helix.

I went through TGP and got all of the info about the Helix models I could find along with some "hints" and put it in a word document for myself. I wish there was some kind of official Line 6 document with this kind of info in it. Here it is if you want to look at it. It's not really organized all that well but, hey, I created it for me. It's 40 pages long. I had to split it into two documents to attach here. It is in the old Word format. Helix Models Info 1.doc Helix Models Info 2.doc

The only thing I can think of and only because it happened several updates ago is to check your input and output selections after the upgrade. As I recall it did not happen to me personally with this update. Otherwise, that is weird.

Yeah, I would agree it's a little disappointing. Especially since it was in the HD500. Not a deal breaker for me personally but it would be nice. It's has a couple of entries in the Line 6 Ideascale area. Vote it up! https://line6.ideascale.com/a/ideas/search?templateId=0&query=formant (you do need to log on before you can see them)

They've only been out since April of 2017 so there's only two years involved anway.

I'm darn near positive that it does not work like it did in the HD500. It has options for the vowels sounds it creates probably based on volume. Why would you need that if it uses the mic? I'm not at home so I can't confirm. But if it don't do anything with a mic connected and there's nothing in the parameters about a mic, I can only assume there is no mic involved. Here's a quote in this thread from Digital Igloo At the risk of sounding like a broken record, Helix was designed to act as the centerpiece of one's rig; it was not designed to replace every component in someone's rig. If a formant filter is mission crucial, we've provided multiple ways to incorporate it into Helix's signal flow.  This would indicate to me there is no formant filter (what you would need to do what you want.).

That does not exist although I think you are confusing your terms. Workbench is the software to program your Variax guitar from your computer. HX Edit is the software you use to program your Helix from your computer. Neither provide a tuner.

I would try changing the piezo. I did this and it worked. I think a problem with the JTV's as opposed to the earlier Variax technology is the JTV's are way more sensitve to the piezo's. So you can hear variations it the piezos a lot more. It sucks. And make sure you get the right one if you do decide to change it out. The piezos in an 89F are not the same as the ones in the JTV69 for example.

What's it called? Is it the Voice box?

There's a vocoder?

I do not like this at all. I won't be getting them. I might have until I read this.

As far as I know, there is no difference. Ownhammer has a Line 6 area and there are IR's made specifically for the Helix. No idea how good or not good they are. I'm pretty sure they are the same as what's on the Line 6 website. I'm guessing that the video on this website will tell you what you need to know. https://www.ownhammer.com/playerpacks/line6/

Yeah, but black is way cooler. Ya gotta admit that!

I have one. I REALLY like it. I would say you need to find a store with a 30 day, no questions asked, return policy. Like Guitar Center. With the Helix, you have a lot of options available to you. Aside from the models, you can have instant tunings. The thing with the tunings is it's only electronic. So the signal will be changed but the physical strings will, of course, be in standard tuning. Not an issue for me personally but you either have to have the signal so loud it drowns out the sound of your physical strings, or just get used to hearing it. I find I don't have to have it that loud to drown out the physical strings but I think there are other people who do. You can have both the magnetic pickups and the model going at the same time. I use this for a Stairway To Heaven Patch. It's stereo, one side always has the magnetic pickups, the other side is either an acoustic or a Rickenbacher 12 string. Regarding the full range locking trem. It is a floyd rose but for the Variax to work, it requires that the strings remain in contact with the piezo's in the bridge. Of course, as the strings go slack, they lose contact. If you want full range you'll have to use the magnetic pickups. It does have a big enough range for me. There have been issues with the JTV 89F and I've had some myself. But they worked themselves out and I am currently very happy with my JTV now. So that's my experience but, and I know this is a cliche, you really need to try it out for yourself. It's the only way to be sure. Let the store know if you don't keep it, you'll get the Strat. If they don't have a 30 day return policy, maybe that'll convince them. I really like it but it is kind of a specialized thing. You will either really like it or you won't. Doesn't seem to be a lot of middle ground,. There are people that prefer the sound of their real guitar but because of the massive flexibility of the JTV, don't touch their real guitar much anymore. Again, it's really up to you but if you can find a 30 day return policy, I say it's definitely worth checking out. If you like it, you'll probably really like it if not, dare I say it, love it. I personally hesitate to go all the way to love, but i haven't touched my SG since I got one.

#2) EQ block on both paths.

Thank you for doing this by the way.

He doesn't have the Pitch/Synth section in there either. I think these areas would require a second page. Perhaps both pages printed on each side of a piece of paper.

I know many people are tired of these but I like them. I do take them with a grain of salt. I'm never looking for a representation of what the units sound like with these. As many of us know, there are too many variables to make a determination of that. But I like seeing/hearing how close they can get to each other. It is interesting to me. Then again, there is a good chance I may be just looking for validation of my purchase choice. In this case, I closed my eyes before I could see what was what, listened, and when I opened them, I actually liked the Helix tone slightly better. Only VERY slightly though. They were all extremely, super close. And maybe with a little more tweaking, even closer. They were all so close, it would be hard to determine from this, which one to get. They can get so close to each other that it has become more and more apparent to me that none of these are better than the others. It's more about your work style, flow and what exactly you want to use them for. To me, the Fractal and Helix are essentially studios in a box with the Fractal having a little more finesse and options. Which you pay for. I think the Helix is right on it's heels though. The Fractal is less user friendly but that certainly doesn't make a difference to me personally. I think it does to others. And I would say the Helix (the floor unit anyway) is built more for the average bar, small venue, gigging musician, where the Fractal is more for the concert type, "big time" situation, (less drunks and spilled beer to worry about). Not that they couldn't be used for either situation. Not at all. There is a rackmount Helix after all. They both are more about getting a studio sound in the field. The Kemper seems to be more about having an amp in the room experience. Or more to the point, ANY amp you want in a room experience. Less about a studio sound in the field. A VERY cool thing. All have their place and are of equal value. Just each with their own strengths. And of course, as Dunedin pointed out, your average shmo has no clue and more than likely, would say they all sound the same. But, they don't have to have a clue and don't want to. They probably don't even care. I know, I know...not care about guitar tone? What's wrong with them? What a GREAT time to be a guitar player. I just wish it had happened about 30 years ago. Sigh. Wait. How old am I again?

I'm hoping to be able to copy a whole path. Many of my patches consist of two totally different sounds in them, usually a pad type thing and the "normal" guitar sound. I often grab a "normal" sounding patch first and then add the pad, which is always the same thing. To do this I have to go back and forth between the pad patch and the two sound patch, copying each block, one at a time to put in path 2 of the "normal/pad" patch, save that, then go back to the pad patch for the next block. Sure would make it easier if I could copy a whole path somehow instead of copying it one block at a time.

If it's the guitar's VDI, you can get this https://www.fullcompass.com/prod/215565-line-6-50-04-0079-2-jtv-89-jack-plate-assembly

This could be 2 issues. 1)If the guitar side is blinking red, it's not "seeing" the guitar. I seem to recall that you need to have a 1/4" guitar cable plugged into it for it to "see" it. I could be wrong about that but don't quote me. 2) JTV Variax's are semi notorious for the model knob to not push the metal post it's on down far enough. Carefully take the model knob off using the spoon method. Be sure to protect the finish of the guitar better than the picture. Maybe use washcloths. Then push the metal post down to see if the models will now engage. If they do, you need to put something in the knob's post hole to allow it to push the metal post down further. That's all I got.

I would still try it without the battery. It's the only thing that might be wrong that wouldn't require a trip to the repair shop that I can think of.